General Audio

Heres the link to my website...please comment...no where near done for just being started 12hours ago...i made some progess...what u think??? akoustikkonceptscarclub.webs.com

From someone who has like thousands of replies and over a 99% positive feedback. Would you buy an amp or sub from those people? I think they are mostly car audio shop selling their chit on ebay

I'm looking into adding some pro audio into my car.. I pretty much have everything ready except some pro audio mids. I'm looking to run them off channels 3&4 on my Arc FD 4150 and want them to get some power. The reason they need to get a lot of power vs your standard 8 ohm mid is because I'm running 2 crescendo supertweets of a Arc FD 2100 and they are screaming (see distance video below.) I'm really only looking into 1 mid per side so I can fit the supertweet and mid in a kick panel I'm planning on making.

I have a 1966 Chevy C-10 Pickup and I am pulling the system out of my car to put in the Truck when I get the brakes fixed. Anyway, I have been surfing the web like crazy and I can't find a dash install kit for the truck So I can put my HU in it. Do they even make one? Or am I going to have to have someone cut into the dash to make a custom fitted one?

As the title says, looking for pointers installing in a Grand National for a buddy. He has had the car forever, drives it often and wants some improved audio. The plan is to do no un-reversable mods to the vehicle, will be installing a DIN head unit in place of the stocker (that is going in the closet), change out the door speakers in the Concert Sound II pods for some 5.25" components, throw a sub and amp rack in the trunk. Seeing as sandt38 has a few of these cars, hope he can provide some insight.

Any Ideas on how to stop a back window from flexing so much?

I have the opportunity to grab the hi energy set for cheap bnib. I'm looking for loud but clear vocals with a fair amount of mid bass at loud volumes. I'll be running the full power or more to the set. And be fiber glassing pods for the Mids and the tweeters. I listen to all kinds of music mainly rap and alternative rock. The vehicle is 2000 gmc Sierra. Has anyone heard a set? Do you like the way they sound?

Hey everyone, I recently purchased a 1976 BMW 2002 and I would like to outfit it with a nice system. The car itself is a little restricting due to the amount of noise it makes and its size. My main question is about power consumption. Right now the car has the stock alternator in which produces either 35a or 45a, I'm not sure which. How much amperage would I need to run a little 10" sub such as the SA-10 and a set of front speakers run off of an amp? The mounting location accepts what appears to be a 4" speaker. I would also like to get some opinions on a real good set of 4" speakers for lets say around $200, a little more wouldn't kill me but I'd like to keep it relative…

My setup ... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63992_Pioneer-TS-A6965R.html pioneer 6x9's cerwin vega 6.5's http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_76907_Cerwin-Vega-XED62.html pioneer receiver http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_60596_Pioneer-DEH-150MP.html 4 gauge Belva installation kit http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_86031_Belva-BAK42BK-Black.html .... Will the deck be enough to power my 6.5's and will my stock 6x9 mid amps be enough for the pioneers?

well i purchased a 100.2 then plans changed a bit i should have got a 100.4 but im going to work with the 100.2 run down Vehicle: 1994 gmc sierra Subs: 2 SD1 12's V1's Amp: SAX-100.2 Comps: Image dynamics ctx65cs the dilemma running in tri-mode essentially runs the same frequency to the subs and components. i already have everything on a subsonic filter below 30hz. now i need to keep the subs from playing above about 90 hz and the comps from playing anything below around 60hz. i cant use the EQ that im using for a subsonic filter because when i try to filter for the comps its just going to kill the bass. so im going to have to make some crossovers i quess heres a pic of …

I just got 2 20" subs of ebay for real cheap. The subs are a brand called reempower. i can't really find any info on them. I was wondering if anyone could help me with a box size for these subs. I am going to have them ported at 30hz and was wondering what an appropriate enclosure size should be.

So i have the old surround coil and spider out, i just need to finish cleaning up the old glue. I dont have aside grinder though like everyone says to use, is there another alternative? something else i could use my recone kit form PAP should be here sometime next week and i just want to make sure everything is cleaned up and ready to go for when it gets here. Thanks everyone.

just like it says, i have an old Jl w6 15 the basket is good, i cut the souround and the spider to pull the sub apart to show my lil brother how it works,...... anyone do a recone with say an fi cone?? or anyother.. or do you think it MAYBE work listin it on ebay for 10 bucks

I don't think I've seen any boats on here yet, so I decided to take a few pictures of a customer boat I did at work today. It's still in progress. He have 2 10" Kenwood Sub, one in each compartment in fron and 2 Kenwood Coax speakers in the back. There are 2 more sets going in the front in the walk through or under the benches. All powered by the New Kenwood XR5s 5 channel amp and an Excelon Deck. This thing ROCKS! it's loud and definitely a beach party boat. It has been party proofed so no drunk people fry everything! Heres some Pictures. Even with a Set of 6.5 Coax speakers, this thing gets loud! The customer remove all the carpet and the seats for our con…

Sup guys it's jfreezy. I was wondering if it's possible to bring your home audio into a car? I'd like to know if it is possible. I'm curious. My cousin has a home audio sub with built in amp in the box. It has the wall outlet plug. It can be a straight up sub and has terminals for speakers. Thing is like 250watts. Do you guys think it's possible to have this in a car with a dc to ac converter ? Like, top of the line dc to ac converter, one that can handle alot of wattage. If this is possible it would be pretty cool and cheap too lol. Just something my cousin and I are thinking about on this boring day.

Hi all, longtime lurker, first time poster. I'm not new to car audio, but I am new to this forum. I have an issue with my system setup, basically that there isn't much bass over the factory premium audio system. It's a long post so bear with me. I am trying to get a similar output to the systems I've had in the past but am coming up short. My previous system was in a 2007 Grand Prix. It had a Kenwood Excelon headunit with sub out, two PPI Art series amps (an A300 running the highs @ 2ohms and an A600 bridged to 4ohms to run the subs), the highs were a pair of 6 3/4"s in the front doors and a pair of 6x9s in the rear deck- all the high speakers were Kenwoods, and a pair …

so i am looking into one of these for my next build. my idea is to have this installed so when i am bumping i can see how much rms is going to my subs. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350286314830&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT i think this would be pretty cool to have as i could monitor how much rms the subs are getting and if the amps start to clip i will see it on the clamp meter. well i think i will see something but i could be wrong. so i would like some input: 1. would this we a useful tool 2. would you use one 3. yes i know this wouldn't tell me rms it would only tell me current but current multiply by the voltage i get wattage! my next buil…

Anyone still down with reggae and have anything new or old school that the world needs to hear?

just had to share this

You say you don

I just got done installing my second skin door pack that I won through the second skin promotion. When opening the box I saw some goodies also, Ant was nice enough to give all the winners a Fury knife and the hard wood roller. I decided that I would install my 5.25 pioneer premier components up in the front doors using the second skin. I first started by cleaning off dirt and dust off of the door for the best contact. I cut out small pieces of deadener with the included fury knife. The fury knife cuts through the second skin with ease and works great. Then I started to apply the small pieces of deadener around the speaker cut out. Then I cut some larger pieces of s…

..and no I'm not giving it to you. I'm piecing my system together bit by bit. bills take priority but what little left I have goes towards the system which is why its taking a bit to finish (sorry Robin!) and my next purchase is either going to be: option 1) 1 of 2 sundown Z v.3 18's OR option 2) my last XS power D6500 to complete my electrical and getting my Three.2 fiberglassed into my dash (courtesy of Monster Sound In Winter Haven, FL). what say you all? eventually I need both options but for right now I cant decide what I want to purchase first. In total I need still: (2) Sundown Z v.3 18's (1) XS Power D6500 (1) Crescendo BC5500 and a bad *** box (which is already…

So im trying to do my first recone and the tinsel leads won't fit through the small hole in the terminal, am i suppose to fabricate it somehow? also the tinsel leads on my other zcon 18 looks more round and in one peice and the recone looks flat and folded. I don't want to mess anything up zcon 18 tinsel leads ( looks round and in one piece) old sub zcon recone for broken sub flat looking tinsel leads. Terminal

Not sure how it fully happened went to work they were working came home they were not. So i checked the 3 30size fuses in my amp they were all good. I chcecked my remote turn on wires good. All wires all plugged into amp correctly I have an Audioque 750amp and the 2 dcon 10". Pleas help, any more info needed just ask! Im looking for a way to test my amp and subs possibly with a multimeter or a 9v battery. Any tricks thanks ugh!!!

How does one choose the wood he wants to build his box out of? I see pretty much every one using MDF for theirs, but what about other types? Currently I know three types and I am not completely sure about their pros and cons. Particle Board cons - not accousticly dead, breaks easy if bend, crumbles at edges, pros - pretty light and cheap MDF cons - porous, adds significant weight to the box, lots of dust when cut pros - quite strong, easy to work with, small channels can be made so it bend but it still holds it structure Plywood cons - price pros - light and strong - all you want from wood for boxes Am I wrong about the stated properties of these materials? How should…