General Audio

Well I'm listening to my music loud last night and noticed my lights seems to be dimming quite heavily, more than I recall. Then after playing music for about 10 minutes my sub cuts out then comes back on and cuts out. So I turn the sub off. I figured maybe a tinsel lead failed because I didn't smell any burned voice coil scent. Then I start to think. Man that sub was expensive how could it break like that on me? I'm only feeding it 900 watts rms. I thought you could power this sub into the 1kw range. Then I start thinking about how much shipping will cost to send it back to stereo integrity. Today after school I decide to check the sub. I hook it up to a shelf…

I just got 2 20" subs of ebay for real cheap. The subs are a brand called reempower. i can't really find any info on them. I was wondering if anyone could help me with a box size for these subs. I am going to have them ported at 30hz and was wondering what an appropriate enclosure size should be.

Hey guys my name is Alex I'm 17 and have been very addicted to car audio my whole life even hooking them up in my room etc. However I have a 1994 Buick Lesabre currently running 2 12" kicker comps in a sealed box doing barely 110 dbs which to alot of people is very low so I want to upgrade to 1 15" fi btl fully loaded dual 2 ohm to wire it at 1 ohm p chamfer, cooling, hixmcoil, daily, i heat ring, non universal, white dust cap were the options I thought were the best ones. Here is the issue I need a box that will give me the best SPL/db readings possible sound quality is not a huge issue for me the box will be in a sealed trunk very little air gets in the car with the bac…

im going to post a link i hope thats ok with u guys thank u let me know what u think http://www.****/forum/s...0832#post160832

Any of you emm-effers coming down to Tucson for the USACi event on Feb 10? Meet up? Beer? Whatever? http://www.importfaceoff.net/tucson.htm

I don't think I've seen any boats on here yet, so I decided to take a few pictures of a customer boat I did at work today. It's still in progress. He have 2 10" Kenwood Sub, one in each compartment in fron and 2 Kenwood Coax speakers in the back. There are 2 more sets going in the front in the walk through or under the benches. All powered by the New Kenwood XR5s 5 channel amp and an Excelon Deck. This thing ROCKS! it's loud and definitely a beach party boat. It has been party proofed so no drunk people fry everything! Heres some Pictures. Even with a Set of 6.5 Coax speakers, this thing gets loud! The customer remove all the carpet and the seats for our con…

Sup guys it's jfreezy. I was wondering if it's possible to bring your home audio into a car? I'd like to know if it is possible. I'm curious. My cousin has a home audio sub with built in amp in the box. It has the wall outlet plug. It can be a straight up sub and has terminals for speakers. Thing is like 250watts. Do you guys think it's possible to have this in a car with a dc to ac converter ? Like, top of the line dc to ac converter, one that can handle alot of wattage. If this is possible it would be pretty cool and cheap too lol. Just something my cousin and I are thinking about on this boring day.

I'm sitting in front of the computer brainstorming different setups..trying to find the right sub is just like buying a new car for the first time *Two Zv4 18's with spl cone and nsv2 coil powered by two AA 3800's *Two sp4 18's fully upgraded powered by two sundown scv 4000's The subs and amps I still have floating around is the B2 audio M1s, nightshade v3. and Scv 6000, CT 4000.1

As the title says, looking for pointers installing in a Grand National for a buddy. He has had the car forever, drives it often and wants some improved audio. The plan is to do no un-reversable mods to the vehicle, will be installing a DIN head unit in place of the stocker (that is going in the closet), change out the door speakers in the Concert Sound II pods for some 5.25" components, throw a sub and amp rack in the trunk. Seeing as sandt38 has a few of these cars, hope he can provide some insight.

Hey everyone, I recently purchased a 1976 BMW 2002 and I would like to outfit it with a nice system. The car itself is a little restricting due to the amount of noise it makes and its size. My main question is about power consumption. Right now the car has the stock alternator in which produces either 35a or 45a, I'm not sure which. How much amperage would I need to run a little 10" sub such as the SA-10 and a set of front speakers run off of an amp? The mounting location accepts what appears to be a 4" speaker. I would also like to get some opinions on a real good set of 4" speakers for lets say around $200, a little more wouldn't kill me but I'd like to keep it relative…

I'll use REW on my laptop. My question is can I use the omni directional microphone that came with my Kicker keysmart amp that is used to auto tweak it's built in DSP? My second question. I've never used REW before. Any tips/suggestions for the best settings/methods to measure my car's accoustics? Also should I turn off my Keysmart amp's DSP features first or will it matter? I just want a graph to see where the peaks and dips are in my frequency response. Final question. Can I measure for cancellation issues using REW?

How does one choose the wood he wants to build his box out of? I see pretty much every one using MDF for theirs, but what about other types? Currently I know three types and I am not completely sure about their pros and cons. Particle Board cons - not accousticly dead, breaks easy if bend, crumbles at edges, pros - pretty light and cheap MDF cons - porous, adds significant weight to the box, lots of dust when cut pros - quite strong, easy to work with, small channels can be made so it bend but it still holds it structure Plywood cons - price pros - light and strong - all you want from wood for boxes Am I wrong about the stated properties of these materials? How should…

Saw a similar post on ****, but it seems like everyone has an opinion without any real experience to back it up. Why do people in car audio hand out info so freely when they have no clue on the subject? I've been building boxes for over 10 years now and I feel like I've just scratched the surface of enclosure design. But if you post a question on boxes on just about any forum you'll get a flood of advice from kids that have never even built a box. Pretty frustrating. Is there any forums for just box builders? If not, there should be. Kirby get on it. Anyways, sorry for the rant. On to the question In your experience with 4th orders, what ratio sealed/ported do you think w…

Sound advice and Tweeter are going out of business. That sucks No more high end audio places here that sucks.

well i purchased a 100.2 then plans changed a bit i should have got a 100.4 but im going to work with the 100.2 run down Vehicle: 1994 gmc sierra Subs: 2 SD1 12's V1's Amp: SAX-100.2 Comps: Image dynamics ctx65cs the dilemma running in tri-mode essentially runs the same frequency to the subs and components. i already have everything on a subsonic filter below 30hz. now i need to keep the subs from playing above about 90 hz and the comps from playing anything below around 60hz. i cant use the EQ that im using for a subsonic filter because when i try to filter for the comps its just going to kill the bass. so im going to have to make some crossovers i quess heres a pic of …

..and no I'm not giving it to you. I'm piecing my system together bit by bit. bills take priority but what little left I have goes towards the system which is why its taking a bit to finish (sorry Robin!) and my next purchase is either going to be: option 1) 1 of 2 sundown Z v.3 18's OR option 2) my last XS power D6500 to complete my electrical and getting my Three.2 fiberglassed into my dash (courtesy of Monster Sound In Winter Haven, FL). what say you all? eventually I need both options but for right now I cant decide what I want to purchase first. In total I need still: (2) Sundown Z v.3 18's (1) XS Power D6500 (1) Crescendo BC5500 and a bad *** box (which is already…

Ok, so about a week ago I got my final system installed, except for the amp. Now when we were playing with it and just playing some music the rattle wasn't too bad but I put a layer of Stinger Roadkill on it and it helped a bit. Fast foward to this evening. I was demoing for some friends and I haven't had bad rattle yet until now. My trunk lid is now slapping and it's getting ugly. My setup is sub up port back so basically this sub is firing right at the trunk lid. So on a good note, this sub is moving enough air and creating enough pressure to begin to damage my trunk. On the downside, it's damaging my trunk. Question: Would another layer of deadener help with this? Or…

I am working on custom center console for my dodge ram. Here are some pics if interested.

ive got one Fi SSD15 on about 1200 rms in a ported box at 37 hz in the turnk of my 525i. i saw some alpine subs on sale online, the new Type-E's for real cheap, I was thinking about buying those 4 12s, or 3 JL audio 13 inch W1s, and sealing them up in a box. what do you think the overall difference in soudn would be? i'm assuming a louder (more surface area, same power) and cleaner (sealed) sound?

i was trying to figure out how to find out which wire is positive or negative on the door wiring...i changed the speaker on the door and replaced the factory but as i took it out i didnt know which was positive or negative since i didnt hook up the HU ...my friend told me take a batery from a drill and hook it up to the speaker while it was hooked up and if it poped up it was right if it popped down it wasnt..but how could i know which was pos or neg on the drill bat...anyways could i have messed anything up i was hearing weird sounds while i was doing it coming from the back sorry for the book guys lol

I am looking to buy a new car and I have a question for anyone who knows, or has experience with what subwoofers sound like in a convertible. The car I am looking to buy is a 1997 mitsubishi eclipse spyder gs and I was wondering if subwoofers would be worth putting in. I know that is waaaay too broad of a question because everyone has different definitons of sound quality and volume, but I would just like some opinions maybe from people who have put subwoofers in a convertible before.

I'm looking into adding some pro audio into my car.. I pretty much have everything ready except some pro audio mids. I'm looking to run them off channels 3&4 on my Arc FD 4150 and want them to get some power. The reason they need to get a lot of power vs your standard 8 ohm mid is because I'm running 2 crescendo supertweets of a Arc FD 2100 and they are screaming (see distance video below.) I'm really only looking into 1 mid per side so I can fit the supertweet and mid in a kick panel I'm planning on making.

what's this remind you of? ok, this company was brought to my attention by soundsplinter, referring to something else. so i get to the website and what do i see? yep, looks like an uberwoofer (albeit with a smaller motor structure,or so it seems) to me!! i wonder how close this thing is to the uberwoofer? steve, ryan...u guys ever get t/s parameters on ur uber's? i wonder if i can find any on the svsubs... but just something to make y'all think..hehe yeah, i know they are both made by tc sounds.. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Hi Everyone. Newbie here with insufficient knowledge to make informed decisions. I have a 2019 Volkswagen Caddy SWB van. Plenty of sound deadening and carpet to go in along with many mechanical and cosmetic modifications. Daily driver, sound quality bias, wide variety of music. I’d like to keep the factory RCD330 head unit, put Evil 6.5”s and Evil tweeters in the factory locations, and have one or two 12” subs directly behind the front seats in what would be the rear passenger footwells. No plans for rear fill. The Evils will fit – tweeters out front on top of the dash, 6.5s in the front lower corner of the doors. Might be able to position the twe…