General Audio

Today will be my first competition. Its only local but it still is exciting for me. Im mostly excited to see what numbers Im putting up as Im running my system and to see how things are operated as ive never even attended a show before. Wish me luck! Goin to rep some SSA and convert some of these main stream nut huggers

Hey guys , need a little help here i have my mono amp under my driver seat , and my component's amp under my passenger seat, now i am going to be entering into street stock division this season, and i heard from a reliable source that i would have to move my amps into the trunk to qualify in street stock , and then i heard from another reliable source that as long as the amps are completely hidden under the seat that it would be all good, ??? which is the correct info ?? any help or advice would be apreciated, thanks

i am new at this whole car audio thing, so i need some advice and guidance. i was ordnally looking into jl w7 12 inch with 1000/1 amps but then someone told me they were over priced and not that great. so i looked into FI's. first off, i was looking into the BTL's 15 inch (probably n2). im not sure if i should get one or two, im not sure if one is gonna cut it. but i also need some advice on good amps, i know which wire kit im getting and i know the high output alternator im getting. and im a little confused on what some of the ohm and what ever do. what does ohm mean and what do they do? i have a choice of either dual 1 or 2. and all i want is someone to point me in the …

Hey, I have been thinking of where to install my crossovers, I was wondering if they have to be near the front, or can I run them back to my amp rack? Josh

Ok here is a serious question and I would love everyone who veiws opinion. There are three sets of 6.5'' components, you can only choose 1. Alpine SPX-17PRO (Type X) Kicker 04SS65.2 Kicker 10QS65.2 Here is my issue, yeah i actually ordered all three, its a long story but end result is i own all 3 sets. just need to know wich i should use. I actually have a set of the older Type -X in the truck now, and they are amazing. But I have heard alot of good about all three. Here is what I am looking for. I want Loud Crisp mids and highs...i mean LOUD, but with out distortion. Just let me know!

Do I need to match my components wattage??

how do i go about hooking up component speakers to a sundown 100.4? i have never used components just coaxial so i need a lot of input on how to do this, any help would be much appreciated.... also i need some ideas for component that are 5x7's but dont want to spend 100's of dollars limit would be around 300 +- Thanks! Darrin

I'm getting a PDX5 soon. Need some help picking out some components to replace my factory components with. Have a 2007 Silverado. It has the factory A pillar tweeters. Budget is just north of 200. Willing to go around 300 if I see something I really like. Any ideas/help is appreciated!

Really haven't been on here much, so i'm even more out of the loop than i was. I planned on waiting till next spring (after cross country and wrestling) to do more with my audio, but i can't wait. To start off, i really don't know a whole lot about speakers or tweeters, but i want something with good quality and good price, and from the looks of it, the Mach5 MLI-65 is great for the money. I'd also need some tweeters, and when i searched, most people recommended SEAs tweeters to compliment the mli. Does that sound good, what model of the tweeters, and are there any other suggestions? I was thinking a 100x2 amp for the mli's (sundown, maybe), and just power the tweets from…

hello i have a factory build stereo my install was done yesterday. i have hyfonics zeus zxi 6.5 component set the problem is when i raise the volume the tweeters and speakers don't produce the same voice as they produce on low volume they sound like someone has switched off the treble completely. the installer told me that this is happening because the factory stereo is not giving proper output thats why this is happening. any suggestions :-s i know my english is not good but if u don't understand me then i'll post a video after 1 hours when my dad comes back from office. regards simmer

I am still running factory 6x8 speakers in my car and I am looking to upgrade them but would like some suggestions on brand. My sub stage will be someday be two 12" 1-1.5k watt subwoofers and I dont want to go cheap on the speakers. Definitely want component speakers in the front and either identical components in the back or 2 way speakers. I would like something that gets loud and clear and would to keep the total price of the speakers and 4 channel amp to run them under $800. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

I'm looking into getting an 8 ohm woofer and a tweeter for each of my stock locations. The amp i have is rated for 50x4 @4 ohms and has a bridged rating of 160x2 @4 ohms. Question is, would it be ok to bridge each side (1 woofer and 1 tweeter) @4 ohms, provided that i find a decent 8 ohm tweeter? Or am i just better off running each speaker to it's own channel? I'm not too familiar with this stuff, so excuse me if i am completely missing something.

ok i have a few questions the system is coming along well, but im looking at door speakers. i just got my girl a head unit and zeus door speakers had good reveiws on sonics( i got her some cheap stuff cuz she will be happy with anything i am alot more picky).the watts on the zeus speakers are 500w for the pair? really? there like 60 bucks..i got those for her to see how they sound cuz crescendo audio will not return my calls or e mail.....um did they go under and not tell me? but do the watts rally matter that much i was going to put mine to an amp. also can you lower the ohms like on a sub?....TO SUM UP do the watts matter and ca you lower the ohm is my question.

does anybody know of some good Components, budgets around 300 are so this is for my work van they will be powerd by a SAX-100.2 .thanks

So I am helping a friend install a new system into his car. Right now we are looking at running either a single 12 pushing 2k watts to it or running 2 10's, each with 1k watts. Question.....a very loud SPL oriented daily driver is the goal, would the 2 10's be better do to sheer cone area or would the 12 be better???? I am thinking the 2 10's but I want to double check to be on the safe side before I tell him wrong. ----------------------------------------------- 2 10" BL's or 1 12" BTL

Hi there, curious about connecting a mono amp / 2x10" subwoofer setup. My subwoofer setup is pretty cheap, I know, but I just wanna make sure I do it right. The subs are Pioneer TS-W251R 10" 4 Ohm: Output Power (4 Ohm, <=1% THD) 60 Watts x 2 Output Power (4 Ohm Bridged, <=1% THD) 150 Watts x 1 Output Power (2 Ohm, <=1% THD) 75 Watts x 2 The amp is Infinity Reference 1300a: 200 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (300 watts RMS at 2 ohms) So obviously, I have two pairs of subwoofer terminals in the back of my enclosure, and I have two pairs of terminals on the amp itself. Should I just plug subwoofer 1 into speaker terminal 1 on the amp, and subwoofer 2 into terminal 2 on the…

So I had an old friend stop by and he knew I was a fan of bass, and he hasn't heard my subs yet but offered to show me his. So he told me they were kickers, so I was already not impressed haha. So when I actually listened to these 12in kickers in a prefab ported box on a 300w rockford amp, I was pretty surprised. Ive never heard or seen these specific kicker subs before, and they were much louder then I expected. must be new? Now keep in mind my truck has shitty acoustics, and doesn't seal up as well as newer cars/trucks. It actually almost sounded as loud as the DCONs though. It was close, which really put a damper on my day. Sure he was clipping the helll out of the amp…

would anyone recommend running 2 hifonics brutus 1606d mono class amps to a 15" fi btl sub at 2ohms and connecting each voice coil separately if no. why not?

the pic below shows the ipod but is there a wire or connector that allows the zune to be connected to the head unit? http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=5082

I Have everything connected to where its suppose to be connected RCA Outputs from HU to imputs on amp Pos battery to Pos amp Neg Baterry to Neg amp etc etc When i hooked everything up and set the HU to a song all i get is a FULL Burp on my subs. Like the amp is sending full 3000 Watts to it :/ I dont know why and its driving me crazzyyy what do you think is the problem?

I have a 2011 Dodge Challenger with the following audio gear: Stock HU, base model Audio Control LC2i Audio Control EQL Boston Acoustics GTA 1005- 5 channel, 50X4 + 250X1 JL Audio 12W0 in a 1.4ft3 sealed enclosure MB Quart 6X9 components up front woofers in stock doors with CLD tiles, tweeters in stock dash location aiming up. In boxes in the closet BA GT 275 BA GT 2125 Sundown E-15 My goal is going active to get much better SQ, keeping stock speaker locations, sorry I just can't chop up my beautiful car. Budget around a $1,000 or so, I'm a teacher so I'm totally loaded . What I've learned so far... everything is a compromise don't buy anythin…

Hey all, it has been a while since I have been here. Lookin great. Any new toys anyones messin with? I built me a few new HT goodies, but the car is the same. Anyways, looks good. I'll be back more often. Life just got too complicated for a while there

What's the difference between copper and aluminum voice coils?

I was just wondering if anyone had used copper ring terminals for the ends of their wires when doing the big 3. I got a bunch of them for free but am a little worried about them corroding under the hood. Also I have read many times that when you do the big three to leave your original alternator wire and run a second line directly to the batt, but the Hi amp alt (165) that I bought says never to use the original just pig tail it and run a new 4 gauge or better wire directly to the battery. Let me know what you think its for a 1997 jeep cherokee.