General Audio

Maybe I'm just getting old and bitter. Maybe I'm maturing. Or maybe it's just my depression talking. But I'm almost tired of car audio anymore. Everything is a hassle. Any setup I'd actually want to have in my car would require a major modifications and about two months of installation. Running wire is a pain in the ass. Sound deadening can kiss my ass. Cramming yourself into positions and spaces you never thought possible to install anything is getting old. And you do all this work just to shove some overpriced audio equipment into an acoustic hell hole that will sound worse than even a mediocre bookshelf setup. My god...what the hell have I been thinking the p…

Hi, anyone who experienced these symptoms? * speakers are 6.5in. woofer and 1 inch tweeter, sometimes the left woofer stops playing while the tweeter is good. They're properly wired in their crossover. The woofer comes back whenever I adjust the volume at high level. * At high volume level, it sounds like you're playing the wire connection of the woofer, it's on..and it's off.. and on. * There are instances that the right woofer has the same problems too. * And sometimes the tweeter on the left channel stops too I already checked every connection and they're properly terminated. What could be the problem here? separates are RE XXX6.5c amp is Sundown SAX100.2 Help

Hey everyone, This is my first post here on SSA! I've recently purchased a 2008 Hyundai Elantra SE ( and am looking to build a nice system for it. Keep in mind that I'm a college student and do not have too much money. Basic idea is, the less money I spend the better. However, I do want a system that has nice SQ as well as enough bass that it could make people look my way! You know, maybe at a stoplight or in front of my friends. I listen to a lot of rock, but I also listen to rap. I'm not going to do any competitions, and I don't want to go overboard. I'd have to say my limit is under 500 dollars, and under 400 would be even better. I don't have any components excep…

So i've been working on box design for my new SA-15's. For external dimensions i have: 32 wide x 20.5 tall x 24 deep for 7.55 cubic feet before port volume or displacement. Wood thickness is .75" Then for a port, i would have the dimensions 30.5" wide , 4" tall and then 18.16" deep. I got the port dimensions from CarStereo.com. According to that site, the box is tuned to 32hz. I was wondering if that was correct or not because i know tons of those sites end up being wrong with tuning. Here's a picture describing my plan. The lines in that picture are parallel... I don't know why the camera says differently. So does that sound alright? If not, can someone please correct m…

hello all, this is my first post and i am pretty much a novice when it comes to car audio. that being said, right now i'm driving a '97 neon and i'm still running the stock speakers all around with some cheapy audio 3000 10" subs in a bandpass being run by a kenwood amp. i'm looking to get a system where the lyrics are clearly heard and the bass doesn't pound too hard but still pounds. (if that makes any sense)my questions are these: 1. i'm interested in building a half decent system on a students budget. what do u guys/gals think would be good speakers and subs to get? 2. is it better to stick with one manufacturer for the whole car? 3. how does watts,, amps, ohms com…

i have an FI sp4 15 in a 2007 nissan altima and recently i tried moving my box around to fire forward like a sealed off trunk. I put it as close to the cab as i could and put pillows and sheets all around the box stuffing it as well as i could, and it wasnt as loud (sounding) as firing it towards the trunk. i then folded my back seats closed and put my box in the cab on the seats so that it was completely sealed off from the trunk ( i have a small box and plan on getting a bigger better one) i tested it out and it was even quieter, like a lot quieter, it had less pressure on the ears, less airflow and everything. Ive talked to people and they say sealing off the trunk s…

I am using the following tool to figure out how long my aeros need to be to tune the box. http://psp-inc.com/tools.html It will be a ~5 ft^3 box I want to tune it to ~29 hz I am going to use 6" aeros http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-354 I want to use 4 of them, for the look it will give the box. What I'm wondering is after I put all this in the calculator, it tells me I need 69" of length. Is this per aero or all of them combined? I would hope that it would be inches total and not per aero. Thanks

am looking to buy on-line. kicker l7 15 pair. and rockford t 1000 amp. thanks

Who among you can build THE best sounding car audio system that is NOT connected to your vehicle’s charging system? How well can you build a stand-alone electrical source that will properly power your audio system? And, yes, it can and it has been done! Please visit *removed*, scroll down to TAKE THE BATCAP CHALLENGE toward the lower right hand portion of the page and click on it. This will explain the challenge in more details. Please e-mail any questions that you may have to *removed*.

Has anyone else noticed google play music streaming , and locally stored music sounding a bit distorted lately?

Well, I picked one of the $100 ones up for a cheap alternative for some subbass. First impressions: The build quality is extraodrinary. Everything is aligned perfectly. There is not a hint of excessive glue used which is commonplace on a lot of subs today available from certain buildhouses. The finish on the driver is superb. The basket seems to be a little weak for the motor structure, but hey, it was a lot of "leftover parts" assembled very well into a quite impressive looking driver. IT came with a four-piece, self-adhesive foam surround for rear sealing, with a very attractive front rubber piece that just seems to flow into, or out from the surround. I wish ot…

So I had an old friend stop by and he knew I was a fan of bass, and he hasn't heard my subs yet but offered to show me his. So he told me they were kickers, so I was already not impressed haha. So when I actually listened to these 12in kickers in a prefab ported box on a 300w rockford amp, I was pretty surprised. Ive never heard or seen these specific kicker subs before, and they were much louder then I expected. must be new? Now keep in mind my truck has shitty acoustics, and doesn't seal up as well as newer cars/trucks. It actually almost sounded as loud as the DCONs though. It was close, which really put a damper on my day. Sure he was clipping the helll out of the amp…

My friend told me about this audio company that just came out. Apparently they are really goodbut i have never heard of them nor found some demos on the internet. I also cant find their site for their stuff or prices. Have any of you guys heard of them? I wouldnt mind trying their equipment out lol. Like on YouTube all i see is them showing their stuff but not actually playing. They have like 2500w minimum amps and go up to 5k.

I have a o9 dodge charger and i want to do two 15 inch icon subs,ansd a single saz 1500 or audioque 1200,would i be able to do the big3 and change battery to a kinetic and be fine on my electrical upgrade?

In another post you mentioned something about bouncing sound off the windshield is bad. But when I spoke to "a famous sq guy" <--- his name to himself... He said bouncing your tweeters off the front windshield did a bunch of great things. Can u tell me your reasons for it being bad please? Or anyone, I just called him specificly because he mentioned It. (I didn't really listen to his BS when he told me hair tricks are dumb and anything over 1000 watts is a waste, and that subwoofers should only be used 2% of the time during your listening) <---- no subs?! Go listen to an elevator play your favorite songs guy >:-(

Hey guys whats up I am looking for suggestions.. I am very open to Ideas. I have an 18" Q in a 7.1cu. ft. enclosure running @2 ohms on 2000W rated...bout 3/5gain... 3x 4" Aero's, all 14" long. Its in a 99Nissan Maxima I am pretty happy with its performance, but I am looking for just a little wiggle room, and right now when im playin the Q at max volume, is where I want my wiggle room, so......I don't know if I should try tuning a little higher to get a little more output, or if im choking my trunk.... I was thinking of a few other ideas... trade the Q and get A. and HDC318( if they makeone) B. An 18" BTL C. 18" RE MT D. 2x 15" Q's (if i have enough room to port them) …

I am having major issues with my rear doors opening about 3/4 inch every time my bass hits. It's actually starting to dent the jams and chip the paint. On top of that it is loud and I can't figure out a way to solve this issue since I need the doors to remain functional. Any ideas or input would be greatly appreciated.

I have 2 JL audio 12w6 and i had a post earlier about bandpass boxes and people told me to buy a different box so now i need advice on what kind and where to find a good box for two 12w6.

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I hate to ask this, but I think I may have been misinformed. What would be better/perform better, 2 10" subs ported with 1k watts each in the optimum enclosure or 1 15" sub ported in its optimum enclosure. I keep hearing conflicting stories and want to settle it once and for all. How would the two compare should be the real question......

Hey I’m thinking bout buying 300’ of sky high 14 gauge speaker wire. Will it be good enough to use as wiring for my speakers. Up to 300 watts would be going through it. I just rather get a bunch of wires so I don’t need to keep buying if I ever run out from batches. I’ve had 12 gauge but for some speakers with push terminals it’s too big. The 14 fits fine so I’m thinking it’ll be fine. Could I get some feed back

I did 2 of the big three on my car, the alt. to battery wire and the battery to body ground, both with 4ga wire. I didn't replace the battery to engine ground because the stock wire looks 4ga already. It seems now like there's either no effect or even worse voltage drop and dimming than before. Any input on what may be wrong. Do I need to shorten the wires more there is a few inches of slack, or maybe replace the stock 4ga wire any I did the right wires right?

Just was wondering what would I need to set up my system to never drop below 14.1 or the lowest I want it to drop would be 13.1