General Audio

I found a used JL W7 AE 12" single 3 ohm sub for sale locally and the seller said that it doesn't have the clamp rings which can be found on Ebay for $50. He also said that it has a small scuff on the rubber which I couldn't see in the low quality pics he provided. I have never owned any JL subs. Here are my questions: 1. Is it very hard to install the clamp rings? 2. Is $275 a good price for it? 3. I have a Cadence ZRS-8 amp which is rated at 50 rms @ 4ohm, 750rms @ 2ohm, 1500 rms @ 1 ohm. Will this sub work with my amp?

I need to dampen my entire SUV and am not sure which is the preferred dampening company, each forum seems to have different answers. I am not worried about price as much as quality of the product... What is suggested by this community? Hushmat, Dynomat or Raamat?

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So, there is a show sunday. I have 2 atomic 10 inch ap/spl subs in street beat 1. in my sig is my score on a american bass vfl 400.1 at 1/4 gain. 1/2 gain is where clipping starts. this weekend I AM A run 2 kx2500.1's at 1 ohm each. 1 per sub. stay tuned for the crazy number. and pray for the 150. If you didn't know sb1 is 30 seconds of averaged music. alot like bass race except its divided by number of subs rather then bracketed. you can also start your song before go so its a constant 30 sec. Sunday is the day I will post the results. A) I blow somethign up B ) the number will be LOUD as hell.

So I have found some things messing up in my tahoe. I have two 21" death penalty's pushed by a new 40.1 and it is murdering my tahoe. Do I tone it down and go with a ""SQL"" setup with something like a pair of lethal injection 12's or keep going the way I am and have a junker for a daily driver. Or do I break out my 88 s10 blazer which already has a layer of damp pro all over and custom door pods and great kenwood hu in it, just sitting out back wasting away, and build a clamshell wall for it? Only problem with it is it has a old under powered small block 305 in it and when you turn the a/c on it overheats. Could I find alternators and beakers for it? Or…

im doing a build here in the next few months and im doing it in a 2007 dodge dakota and i want to do two 15s and the box on my back seats i was wondering if i could slant the bottom of the box where when i hit the breaks or something it wont tip forward all the time or will slanting the box make it sound horrible and if anyone has any other ideas to keep the box still without removing the seat i would appreciate any positive input

Forgive me if there is another thread of the same subject but I can't find it and using my wii is painfully slow. Does anyone know when the woofer by AA and He Who Shalt Not Be Named (Ess em dee) is supposed to be released? I was trying to find pricing for a friend. Thanks.

Whats the easiest way to hook up your car audio amplifier to a home stereo? I imagine it involves a $200 converter or something but just fill me in a little.

Ive been playing with my front stage for a little while and its just not cutting it for me.. let me give some info here, I have a 18" BTL running off a sundown 1500 @ 1 ohm, Damn speaker hits real hard (ported box). in a 97 Tahoe 4door. I dont know much about running a proper sounding front stage, i have deadened the 2 front doors and placed a pair of Zapco i-6 components in the front 2 doors. Powered by an older fosgate 600.4, using the supplied crossover (passive i believe?). I also have 2 eclipse coaxial's in the rear doors running off the same amp as the fronts. I have done the whole Velcro thing on the tweets moving them around to see what I like best.. they sound j…

Well Ive wanted an oscope for a while now and crt scopes are a little out of the price range even used ones. Im wondering if the hand held ones with the lcd screens would have enough resolution to see a clipping sine wave. Ive seen the video how the were showing how bass boost is bad but cant really tell how good the resolution of the lcd screen due to video quality. Ive used crt scopes in electronic classes and wondering how lcd compares to crt So who here has used the lcd scopes and are they sufficient enough for car audio. I used crt scopes in electronic classes Heres what im looking at http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=320-290

yep, yep!! (didn't know where to really post this..hehehahahhehaa) anyway... 1 Soundsplinter Rl-p12 dual2 1 Hifonics Nemesis 750d are on their way to my front door!! going to try to beat the living hell outa the wifey's car..yep,yep but what am igoing to do in my truck...hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

I'm in the middle of my girl's system install in her '01 civic and am having a tough time deciding were to place the tweeter The tweeters are too deep to flush mount on the door so I would have to surfarce mount if I put them on the doors or I could flush mount them in the kickpanels. Or maybe flush mount in front of the door handle? What do you guys suggest Also can start build log pics but this is a fairly simple install with f/r comps, two amps, one 12", 100 sqft sound deadening and cd player. Do you guys want the log?

So, I arrive home from work to a package sitting on my back porch. Hmm...that's weird, I don't remember ordering anything. Though I do recognize the name and address of the sender as being one Njccbflo What the heck?? LOL......... A little abusive, aren't we?

Hey guys i currently have a Memphis m3 15 and a pr500 amp in a 4.3cuft box ported @ 34hz. Im either going to pick up a sundown sae-1200d or a saz-1500d amp next and im wonering what sub would be a good match in the 12-1500w range. Im mainly looking for eye blurring ear hurting bass and the m3 just aint cutting it. also im looking to spend around 350 for the sub.

I'm in the market for a new ride. Wanting to spend $20K or less. It must be 4 or 6 cyl. (not 8 because of high gas prices). I prefer Honda, Nissan, Toyota & Hyundai. I have (2) JL W7 12s powered by (2) JL 1000/1s. I currently own a 4-door Accord & have the (2) 12s firing towards the rear. The bass is nice, but my truck rattles BAD. VERY annoying. I've tried firing woofers forward in this car & was not as impressed with their performance as I was with them firing towards the rear. I need your opinions. Should I go with an SUV & fire them towards the rear? If so, what's an appropriate-sized SUV for the 3 cu ft. box required for the 12s? And how much space sh…

For starters I my name is Matt, I use to have an account on here but I am guessing from the cause of inactivity my account was deleted. I haven't been on here in quite sometime. Probably almost, I don't know to to be honest. I wanted to seek help from all of you from SSA Forums, because I bought 2 12" D2 SSA XCONS, and 2 sundown audio 1500d's almost a year ago. I wanted to bebuild my box for the subs, and I wanted to ask from you guys a little help, lessons, and knowledge from you guys. I am not a pro at car audio nor audio in general. In all honesty, I am an idiot, but I like learning about anything and everything. I have had systems in the past, but what made me buy the…

well i 1st got my volt meter maybe 2 or 3 months ago, or around that and i put it on the neg and pos post of my xspower battery under the hood to calibrate and when i turned it , nothing happened just the stinger logo lit up thats it, i told darvex and they told me to ship my old one and i did and gave me another replacment this friday so i went today to calibrate and when i put the pos and neg on the post of my battery it dont light up WTF?! am i doing wrong all it does is flash or couple seconds and thats it if i hold it there nothing lights up, but if i rub it, it just flickers anyone know if im doing anything incorrectly??? this is really making me just buy a used one…

I wanted to know what is the way to measure port length when it comes to an L. I googled and found someone posted on another forum a hunch of different methods. So I wasn't sure which is the most common way to measure it. When I do and L port I usually keep the width consistent through out but I'm not sure if I'm measuring it correct. for instance on a regular L port say 18" long in a 12x12x12 box. With the port width being 2", I'd go towards the rear 10", then make a bend, and put a wood going 4" . So I'd count the first length as 12" then the bend has a 4" wood and I'd add the 2" gap from the second wood to the side of the box to get my 16" . Is that kinda in …

I am working on custom center console for my dodge ram. Here are some pics if interested.

Looking to find out how the IPOD sync/data cable connects to the adapter... Is it standard USB???? Please someone have one and let me know.. Maybe some pictures of it??? lol

New setup coming soon, here is my current setup. Fi SSD 15 in 3.5cuft @ 33hz Kicker zx750.1 on the sub (4 gauge power, 12 gauge sub wire) Kenwood coax 4's in the front & coax 6 1/2" on the back stage (both running on deck power) New setup Fully loaded BTL 15 in 4cuft @ 30hz Sundown 3k @ 1ohm on the BTL (Big 3 upgrade, 0 gauge power, 8 gauge speaker wire) Some loud components in the front, idk what to put in the back Sundown 100.4 for the components and the back (4 gauge power, 16 gauge speaker wire) 50-100sqft sound deadening kinetik 1600 superglue for my rearview mirror

Guys, Need some help/advice. Here's the story... When I play this specific song my bass cuts-off. There's no more sound coming from my sub. I have 1000's of songs and this title is the ONLY one that cuts it off ALL the time. It's psybient (Chillout) music My amp is an Orion D1200 Sub is an SSA ICON 12" D2 connected in series. I tried in series (4 ohms) and parallel (1 ohm) and it still cuts-off!! My simple question is WHY? I apologize in advance for my lack of knowledge on the matter. Here's the title if you need it: (It's got major bass) http://www.sendspace.com/file/uxy0yn Artist/song title: Cell/A Figliulina

I would do this myself, but being out of the "car audio" loop for 8 months puts me at a pretty serious disadvantage. I still have ALL of my old gear: ehh nothing else worth mentioning. But this being a new truck, I kind of want to start anew. 1) The doors already house a stock 2-way component setup (6x9's low, and a 1" paper tweet). With the speakers out, there is almost 3" of depth in the doors and enough room to fit a 10" driver in (although 7" should be plenty). I'm intrigued by using the stock locations and doing an active 2-way setup. 2) As far as low freq's go, I'm no longer really interested in pounding my brains out. A single beefy 8 should do the trick. Besides,…

Hey guys! got another topic about a new set-up idea i'm looking at Current set-up is an 18" BL on a JBL BP1200.1 amplifier Currently though, i'm looking at picking up another BP1200.1 for a total of 2. this means I would start changing around my subs then. Here's where i'll give you the info and you try to help me decide Limitations: Each BP puts out 1200 watts @ 2 ohms. I'll have two of them and they're not strappable so it'll be two subs i'm looking at. I have around 5.8 cubes of space to play with. Max sub size I can fit in terms of still being able to get the box in the trunk are 2 15's. I'm leaning more towards 12's though just because then i can actually give them a…

Does anyone besides me think that the full 9kw of three 12" type X's will destroy a perfectly good honda civic? i was thinkin 3 type X's in a buddy's civic. then three SAZ-3000d's. whatever, just lemme know.