General Audio

Well I'm listening to my music loud last night and noticed my lights seems to be dimming quite heavily, more than I recall. Then after playing music for about 10 minutes my sub cuts out then comes back on and cuts out. So I turn the sub off. I figured maybe a tinsel lead failed because I didn't smell any burned voice coil scent. Then I start to think. Man that sub was expensive how could it break like that on me? I'm only feeding it 900 watts rms. I thought you could power this sub into the 1kw range. Then I start thinking about how much shipping will cost to send it back to stereo integrity. Today after school I decide to check the sub. I hook it up to a shelf…

im still learning a bit here with the audio but im curious as to how to match the ohms so im gonna use an example then ask the question. lets say i have these subs.... Two 10" 1200watt subs at 4 ohms and Two 12" 1300watt subs at 4 ohms Now does that mean i need 1 amp with 4 ohms with a splitter that goes into the subs? or would i need 2 amps both with 4 ohms each? or is there something else i can do?? and the amps need to put out enough watts to match the subs right? thanks in advance for any help.

Which amp is better for the money?its the new fosgate 1500.1 and the ssa store sells both,bot are close to equal price,they will be powering two kicker cvx 12"s

I've done it to a few of my loud boxes lol so I was just checking if anyone else used it and knocking on the box with head in it to verify you're an addict?

wondering what sub would sound good on my 3500, I was thinking about a 10 or 12 zv3 but idk

so i see alot of people like to mess with all the "professionals" at audio shops and such, so please, share your stories

I've been looking at peoples builds that involve walls. My question is could you just build a box and stand it up to facing forward then seal it off? How come you have to secure the box so much when its walled but when you have it laying normal it doesn't have to be?

Helllllllllloooooo !!!!!!!!!!!! I am very happy to announce that i am going to In Car Entertainment (ICE) up my car for the first time So i need some suggestions. I have a budget of 530 us dollars for rear fills + front components. Type of Music i listen to :- Psychedelic trance, Rap, RnB, Hip-Hop, Rock, Jazz, Club and Indian. I am not looking for analytical sound but toe-tapping without loosing on details,instrument separation, bass extension etc. Thanks

cuurent 20001 lincoln towncar L 1 200 amps alt 3 yellow tops 2 fully loaded 15 FI BL"S 1 sundown 3000 1 jl 300/4 4 screens 1 indash dvd h/u 4 heated heats HID headlights A/C heater those are all my current loads coming soon, above PLUS 2 more yellow tops, for a a end number of 5 2 sundown 100's HID back up lights perhaps another sundown 3000's and chaging the bl's out for BTL's with the 3rd option is 600 bucks worth a Dual Alternator Kit and do ya think i need one now? or later after i get some of the more power loads installed? thanks

Hello once again, last time I wrote here I was debating on getting 2 10's, and a amp looking to spend maybe about $500 to $600, then I stopped chasing a dream that was a bit out of my grasps... I've always loved car audio, my friend "Hove" who is a member here who is the one who got me into all this mess lol, has had a system since jr high school. So needless to say, I'd like to introduce myself, and say the last time I spoke here I planned on limiting myself to overstock mass production MTX crap with a box and amp built into it, lol. Some how my buddy "Hove" talked me into getting something else... So heres what i ordered... I ordered: Sundown Audio SAZ-1000D FI BL 15" i…

sup guy! my friend hooked me up real good with an mtx te4001d amp which has 2200rms at 2 ohs. theres just one problem. i'm a cheap bastard.1) i would first like to know if i should get a bl or btl12 with this amount of power. 2) i also would like to know if i will get away with running 2200 watts with just doing "the big 3" and at most buying one of them "marine batteries" (i have a 80 amp alt). i would like to avoid buying a high powered alternator if its possible. let me know what you guys think!

i was trying to figure out how to find out which wire is positive or negative on the door wiring...i changed the speaker on the door and replaced the factory but as i took it out i didnt know which was positive or negative since i didnt hook up the HU ...my friend told me take a batery from a drill and hook it up to the speaker while it was hooked up and if it poped up it was right if it popped down it wasnt..but how could i know which was pos or neg on the drill bat...anyways could i have messed anything up i was hearing weird sounds while i was doing it coming from the back sorry for the book guys lol

I was talking to a guy in an audio shop and he was telling me about how each vehicle has a specific hz range which if you have your box set to that hz, that your subwoofer would sound louder in your vehicle. Which of course, the box would have to be built to the spec of the subwoofer. For example, if you have a blazer and its "specific hertz" (lets say it's 40hz), so if you have the box tuned @ 40hz then your sub would be playing at optimum loudness in a blazer. Is this true or false?

I personally choose the lighter fluid/gasoline way It burned steady for about 10 minutes at this height before shrinking down a bit. (It was filled with some kindling and logs) (The guy next to it is about 6 ft tall) How about the rest of you?

Alrighty peeps, I'm adding a second battery but I don't want to run my batteries in parallel could I run 2 wires off of the alternator to the separate batteries

As the title says Where can I get remote wire? Is it possible to get it without a car kit? I need to connect my new Sundown amp but I dont have any remote wire lol

Okay so I have two D1 XCONs that were both purchased used. One of them reads .07-.08 on both coils, and the other reads 1.0-1.1 on both coils. Both subs sound fine when they are used alone, but once I wire them together it sounds way quieter, and seems like one is canceling the other out. Could this be because they are getting different amounts of power? I've been troubleshooting and am really getting frustrated. I've triple checked the wiring, I've swapped RCAs, amps, and HU pre outs. I finally decided to wire one in my 4.5 cube shared chamber enclosure to 2 ohms and bam the difference was night and day louder. I switched to the other sub and it was just as loud. Wire th…

My truck has started to rattle..the door panels..the roof..and I was looking for deadeners..whats the best one for the price?

First, a little history, it's been about 2 years now that I haven't had subs, I traded in my Chevy Blazer for a leased Cruze, so I didn't put my subs in it, I let my friend use them. Now I no longer have the Cruze, I now own an Impala. The set up I ran in my Blazer was 2 Cerwin Vega S.1000 amps strapped together powering 2 Pioneer Premier Championship Series 12s at 1000wrms a piece. I loved it, they hit harder than anyone elses set up that I knew and they sounded really nice. One of the amps ended up blowing, so I only have one of them now, and the subs are stuck in my buddy's trunk. Now I know 2 Pioneer 12s doesn't sound like it'd be the greatest system in the world, so …

youtube More pics coming...

okayyy soo this weekend i finally installed part of the system on the new blazer and where i ran my power wire through the firewall gets reaaaally close to the right manifold and it emits a looot of heat. i put some split wire loom but its melting slowly hahaha i need something stronger. what do u guys suggest?

I may have been sleeping, but I don't recall seeing them before. http://rcamobile.com/ Appears RCA has come out with a line of 12V mobile products. I'm kind of intrigued. Their other products are geared more towards the affordable end of the price spectrum and are of reasonable build quality. If these follow suit, I would expect atleast the electronics to be a decent alternative for the budget minded individual.

Ok i will start off with the car they are going into.I have a 1978 chevy caprice pristine condition low miles everything is stock. GOALS: Set up a decent mid grade system , i forgot the term .I think interior speakers are just as important as the subs in the trunk tho. SubWoofer:After a few days of research i came to the conclusion that a 12 inch alpine type R would be a good choice.I found an older model one in a box with all the wires that were in the car for 50 bucks seemed like a good deal so i bought it.It is in a small seald box that i think i may replace. AMP:I was looking at hifonics amps on ebay and i found one with 650 watts @ 4 ohms ( just learned i …

alright, my truck motor blew last month... i pulled the motor and sent it to be over hauled. new pistons rings head, sleaves its all getting done.. i have a new turbo here ready to go... i love my wrecker and im thinking i need to put a new system in it kinda like a re birth for her..... currently i have... old sony explode cd player 2 4 inch coaxels 1 jensen 200 watt 1 kicker comp vr 8 mounted inside of a old clarion bass tube encloser... i just upgreaded my 4 channels in my car with a sax series soooo that leaves an jl 300/4 open for either use .. or sale to fund my new system. i want a mp3 player, i was thinking some 4 inch comps ran off the jl, along w…

Hey guys, I just got a new sub put in my car and my box is currently sliding around all over the place in the trunk, (I drive a Mazda Rx8 btw), the box sliding is annoying and unsafe.. so I'd like to fix it asap. I was hoping to get some ideas or suggestions on how to stop the movement! Thanks in advance! If pictures would help, let me know. I could try to get some!