General Audio

i have a 97 expedition and i have a 18'' btl fully loaded dual 2ohm that i will be running between 2.5k to 3k on,and i was wondering what kind of electrical upgrade you guys would recommend?

I'm going to be running a Sundown Audio SAE-1000D and an SAX-100.4. My stock alternator is 135A, I've done the big three with 1/0 gauge, I've got a 1/0 gauge run to the trunk, and I've got a group 65 Duralast Gold battery under the hood... Do you think I'll need a second battery or any other electrical system changes?

So Ive been sittin on my fully loaded BTL 18" since christmas I wasn't able to afford the electrical upgrades to power this sub..Well fast forward to now. I'm now financially stable enough to afford the amp,batteries,etc... I want to go with a Rockford T30001BD. I'm thinking of running a 240 amp alt, dual optimas one upfront and one in the rear, and 2 runs of 0/1 gauge. I have a few questions on doing this correctly. Do I do 2 runs from the front batt to the rear and then then run a single one to the amp?? And do I fuse each run of 0/1 gauge as well.?? I'm kinda lost when it comes to supplying the correct amount of power to the Amp. thanks matt

System I am planning to power. Sundown SAZ-1500D Sundown SAX-100.4D I have a 08 Hyundai Elantra and unfortunately I am hard time finding a reliable high output alternator. My vehicle has a factory 90 amp alternator. I am contacting Mr.Alternator to see what my options are. Any suggestions? I am thinking about using a Kinetik HC 1400 as the primary battery and a Kinetik HC 600 in the trunk near the amps. What size battery isolator should I use? Where should I put the battery isolator? What gauge wire should I use between batteries and isolator? BTW I plan on using all Stinger power wires, connectors and battery isolator. Thanks

I wonder if I am gonna use 2000 watts to run a Fi 18" BT, will I need a new HO alt, or new battery, after the fact of the Big 3. Also I want to ask, if I decide to just get rid of my rear 6x9's and just upgrade my front stage will I be able to just put all of the power from the head unit into 2 speakers so that I wont have to run another amp? I also wouldn't mind if someone could help me find a amp that could handle 2000 watts RMS at 1 ohm

I have talked to Dom Iraggi and I know for sure I am getting his 4 alt bracket. I've had multiple people who I trusted tell me to run at least one 200a or smaller alternator in order to support my normal car functions. After talking to Dominick Iraggi he told me to get 4 260amp alternators, that they would supply me with the most power for my daily driving setup, since they have great idling amperage and I would never see full power without reving the engine (which I wouldn't do). I know plenty of guys on here run 300a alts and bigger, so thats where my conflict comes in there. I want to make sure I'm giving my amps as much power as possible, and I'm willing to go as sma…

ok yea in the other post i said ordered 2 12" mags and a sundown 1500D thinkin of money for install and the issue of batt/alt/wires came to mind will i have to upgrade battery or alt. with the install??? oh and this shop guy said with a stock head unit i need sum continuous thing that when i turn up the volume the bass doesnt turn down...???.... saying i need some $200 thing to stop that and make it sound like i have an aftermarket HU...compared it to a JL cleansweep just that is to expensive neways thanks!

i know that this is a dedicated forum to the posted companies but i was wondering if anyone has had any experience with this sub

I know most of the members don't like elemental designs due to the owner, but how is the sound deadening? Or better yet, liquid deadening in general? My car has a horrible rattle, and it's about time I've done something. Here's the link. http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_24&products_id=53 For now, I think it'll be good. I'm not doing anything super serious with my setup yet, so I think it'll be good enough for now, especially at the price. While your here, how do you feel about the subs? I'm thinking about buying one from someone on craigslist for $200 in a ported box tuned to 26hz. Not sure about the tuning, but the driver itself seems legit. It's …

so i have decided to go with a setup that would have a set of Rainbow 3-way components up front, which i believe would eliminate my need for rear speakers. so the question at hand is, when i remove the rear speakers would i be better off leaving the speaker holes open or closing them up? the car is a 99 Altima, the rear speakers are 6.5" and the setup in the trunk is a SSA XCON 18 in a 5.4 cu ft sealed enclosure.

Ok so heres the canvas for the the build. 2007 honda fit base. um it has a 75 amp alt. Guess thats about all the info i have. The only limitations are basically the car and the electronics. I don't really want to upgrade the alt. Not looking to void any warranties either. I don't mind putting a battery in the back. Doesn't matter if the box is sealed or ported. Oh and i won't use anything bigger than a 12" or ONE 13" woofer e.g. a focal or JL W7. The object of the build is "LESS IS MORE" be that woofer size, amount of woofers, or amp size. Don't really care about the size of the box. I do want to retain the use of my back seat so everything has to go in the b…

Looks to be a cool little unit. Appears you can, via a laptop, adjust power through out the passband to limit over excursion.

thought i would finally upload some pics... so here it is the first dual alt cobalt. The alt is currently out of the car thou because i decided to get a chrome pulley instead of the gold pulley... im also waiting on getting a gm stage 2 performance package to get a smaller supercharger pulley to get the belt to fit.

i dont know if its my subs suck, the amp, or the box i built.... i have a single 12" Kicker CVR, in a box with insulation, and a few small drill holes to let a lil air out, and a 600w rms infinity amp. the dry notes im talking about... like in bass, i love you,by.... basstronics?? i forgot who it is, but that really really low note. i cant hear it at all. when i had 2 12" in my back seat, i could see the subs moving like crazy, but not much sound or feeling in the car. but now its in my trunk with 1 12", which im suprised sounds the same, if not better than how it was. i havent looked to see if it flexed like crazy, but i know i cant hear it in the car. theres also... i p…

wut exactly is a Powered4Sound Snail Shell Enclosure? thanks.

Hey guys. Ill be coming back to the U.S from Afghanistan next year and by that time I'll have enough money saved up to upgrade my sound system a bit. I'm in need of someone who is good at building ported enclosures around the shreveport, la area. I'm willing to drive a couple hour to have this done. Any help of info would be greatly appreciated.

I need a box design for under the rear seat of my truck but the thing is I don't know if I want to go with four ported 8's with about 600 watts a piece or two 10's ported with about 1000 watts a piece...which setup will be louder? And who is a good enclosure designer?

The enclosure designers under tech are to difficult for me to build only becuase of the 45 degree angles i dont no how to cut. I already spent a little over a grand on a AQ2200d, and two bl 12's. And i dont want to spend anymore money. Can anyone on here design me a box?

what is a good website where i can download a box design. I want to design my own box for two 12's, and i want the demensions right there in the program

im in need of an enclosure design. preferably a 6th order. im looking for a PROFESSIONAL enclosure design with a nice layout, proper image of the layout. not something a 12 year old drew up in msn paint. i have all meassurements, which subs im using. this will be a wall in my 91 s10 for 8 skar 12's. i need it for music with good low end. but needs to be able to bassrace well. can anyone point me in the right direction?

Hey ... I'm new to the forum and this is my First Post .... So I've been building and designing my own enclosure for a while now about over five years ... And the software I use is Torres ... But I want a more accurate and professional software ... So what programs do u guys recommend me using ... Also any equations that will be useful on pen and paper ... Thanks

Hello I'm new to this forum and this is my first post ... So I've been designing and building my enclosures now for a while about 5 years now and use a software called Torres ... But now I want to use a new program that is more accurate and professional ... So is there and software programs that I should use?.. And any equations I can use on pen and paper? .. Thanks

Hey ssa, I ordered some sa-10 's and should be here in a couple of days. I need some help on the enclosure. I have about 4 cubes to work with in the back of a 97 maxima. They will be on an ap30001@ 2ohm load. and im looking to hit killer lows and sounds good. Not gearing to much for any high numbers. Dimensions port position, tuning net volume, port area. anything would help. Thanks for the help in advance.

I got a phone call from my buddy today and he wants me to build an enclosure for his step dad's jeep. The woofer is a 12" Sony Xplode that he used to have in his truck. I have NO experience with this woofer. What would you guys, if you have experience with it, recommend for the airspace for a ported enclosure? I'm not sure on the power, I'm assuming like 300w though.

I am trying to get me an enclosure for two 12" Icons, However I would like to put a few small changes to the box to make it look a little better than the "average box", but I need a little help. How do you Flare your port? If I put a plexiglass window on top, would that affect the sound at all, and how do you put a plexiglass window on a box without breaking the plexiglass? What type of paint is the best to use on MDF, for the flared port? Would it be better to have the rectangular port, round port, or will it not really make a difference? And where is the cheapest place to buy carpeting? Cheapest I found locally was $7 a foot. Also depending on price I might even be inte…