General Audio
An Open Forum Dedicated To all audio questions that do not fall under the other specific categories.
3,954 topics in this forum
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I have no headunit, no need for a $50 harness but after having no chimes for the first time today I realized this means no blinker noise or low gas warning. I'd like to restore that, but it would be the ONLY output I'd need from the harness making me not want to buy one. Of course, if the signal is only over the CAN bus and has no analog counterpart it'll cost me something, but was curious if anyone has rednecked a good solution? And yes, I'll still have a stereo in the Escalade (2010) but it'll be a carputer and no headunit.
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I am looking into the possible carrer of building speakers and audio equipment. Nick, Jake, Where did you guys go to school after high school to learn how to do all this audio greatness. I dont have a clue where to start looking. I think maybe electrical engineering, but maybe there is a specialty school or something. Let me know anything would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve
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The sub MTX 9500d 12" dual 4ohm Box for the 12 (2cuft 36Hz 1" HDF w/ double-thick baffle) The amp JBL Powervalve BP1200.1 that I got for $200 from sounddomain.com. IT was supposed to be a scratched open-box item, but it was new when it got here.. woot The cable 0 gauge Audio Pipe w/ Stinger HPM and Custom Pro connectors
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I was just wondering if anyone had used copper ring terminals for the ends of their wires when doing the big 3. I got a bunch of them for free but am a little worried about them corroding under the hood. Also I have read many times that when you do the big three to leave your original alternator wire and run a second line directly to the batt, but the Hi amp alt (165) that I bought says never to use the original just pig tail it and run a new 4 gauge or better wire directly to the battery. Let me know what you think its for a 1997 jeep cherokee.
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Helllllllllloooooo !!!!!!!!!!!! I am very happy to announce that i am going to In Car Entertainment (ICE) up my car for the first time So i need some suggestions. I have a budget of 530 us dollars for rear fills + front components. Type of Music i listen to :- Psychedelic trance, Rap, RnB, Hip-Hop, Rock, Jazz, Club and Indian. I am not looking for analytical sound but toe-tapping without loosing on details,instrument separation, bass extension etc. Thanks
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Since I got some time and a little money (very little) on my hands I really want to start tinkering with something so I am going to add a substage to my truck. First off my goals are to add a substage to take some pressure off the front stage and overall, make my system better sounding. I plan on running a Mach 5 MAW-10 with a Rockford Fosgate P325.1 amp in a sealed box (up or downfire) in an extended cab. I have set my budget at 220 dollars for everything including box supplies, distribution blocks, and extra wire. The budget really may be hard to not break but its all I can afford for a while. I saw a MAW-10 used for $40, shipped on the forums here but noticed the threa…
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Okay, I have had this horrible smell for about 3 days. Didnt know what it was until i opened the good and seen my fuse smoking..... So I found my fuse holder smoking with the side that goes to the amp alll burned up and melted.... I dont know why at all.... It only started after my car had ran out of gas... Not sure how or why that would have an affect. but the odd thing too is my subs pound fine and my highs are still going. What can I do!?!? or check for? The only other thing I could even think was bad was a ground? Would that be a problem?
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I got my order in 4 sa10s will be here someday soon !!! just excited and now i must go buy some MDF and start a box build stay tuned this may become a build thread soon thanks that is all Reggie
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JUst curious man, Rockford use to be the Goto company for me, now it seems as if they have been conversing with best buys pres. or something to sale crap.... The last RF sub i bought was last years model, it said it could handle 900 rms right, so i got my jbl 1200.1, had the gains down, but had it so it could play a lil bit, after about 3 days i was back at BB asking for another sub, gotta love there warranty policy...HAHAHAHA, That could be a thing to do buy a whole lot of BB subs, get the warrant, goto comps burp the subs at whateva ya wanted, then take them all back hahaha... But i really dont know ABout RF any more, their stuff looks nice, but i have not really heard …
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Well, another essential piece of equipment for the Royal Regal project showed up today... Ah yes, the beautiful Diamond Audio D7056. Enjoy:
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Just wanted to congratulate Sundown Audio as well as FI Audio for great products, hooked them up in an 08 Jeep Commander and WOW ! Loud stuff lol Anyway Pics will be up shortly, have to wait for them to finish uploading on photobucket, Bump for Vids
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Has anyone the area had any work done with them. looked at some of their pictures and look like absolutely great work. just thinking about getting a shop to do my install. i dont feel like trying to tackle it.
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I personally choose the lighter fluid/gasoline way It burned steady for about 10 minutes at this height before shrinking down a bit. (It was filled with some kindling and logs) (The guy next to it is about 6 ft tall) How about the rest of you?
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I have been looking at Builds trying to plan a box for 4 18" mayhems but I noticed that Steve has a tiny port for his 4 18"s in his Tahoe. how is it possible that he hits so hard with a small port? could I use a box like this and get the same results?
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So... it was a bright and sunny day today with no clouds. and all of a sudden i hear a downpour... so, my windows were down and my doors are soaked. my crossovers are in my door pockets. and my tweeters are mounted high on my door. are there any precautions i should take to make sure nothig gets ruined if it hasnt already? im SO PISSED!
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I recently purchased a 15"btl and a fosgate 1000bd amp. I own a 05 denali so I have alot of room for a box. How many cubic feet should I go with and tuned to how many hz?? I want it to knock but sound great as well...
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i still dont really get the concept of the idea. can somebody get into detail for me? wouldnt the sub being outside the box mess with the airspace?
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im doing a build here in the next few months and im doing it in a 2007 dodge dakota and i want to do two 15s and the box on my back seats i was wondering if i could slant the bottom of the box where when i hit the breaks or something it wont tip forward all the time or will slanting the box make it sound horrible and if anyone has any other ideas to keep the box still without removing the seat i would appreciate any positive input
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Well, I want to add a few things to my boy's Integra we bought for him. His grad is coming up and I figure it would make a nice gift. Head unit is taken care of. Front stage: Adire Audio Koda 8's + Image Dynamics CD1-Pro MH's. Adire Audio Koda 6.1 Image Dynamics CXS6 Alpine SPX-F17T Kicker 04SS56.2 Diamond Audio M661 or D661 Peerless, Davis, Audax, Vifa, or Morel 6.5" mid coupled with tweeter. Custom 3 way with an 8", 6.5" and tweet or 6.5", 4" and tweet. JL Audio XR653-CSi Amplification: JL Audio Arc Audio MTX Xtant Clarion Kicker JBL Old school Orion Cadence Next Clif And the noise makers: 1x or 2x JL 8W7 or 10W7 1x Crystal CMPX2 15" 2x ID IDMAX 10" Wait for new Tumult…
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Hey guys..im not really sure if this is the right section to put this in, so if its not fell free to move it. Well tonight i got all my wires ran through my car for the new sub. We got everything ran, amp hooked up, sub hooked up, and it all worked perfect. The sub sounded fine. I went out for a little drive with a couple buddies, and we had the music up at a decent volume just to here how loud the bass could get. When we got back to my house we sat and listen to it for a little bit longer doing the same thing. Car was running the whole time. I went to get into the car to change to a different song and i noticed that my check gauges light was on, and that the temperature…
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New to the board and I am doing my first build. I am aiming for more sq than spl. working with a small budget but so far I have: headunit-pioneer 590 speakers-pheonix gold rsd 6.5 amplifier- hifonics txi 4406 Now I just need help deciding on sub and sub amp. I was thinking of 1 10", but i am not sure if this will be enough bass for a civic. Again i do not need spl, just something to sound tight while in the car. Nothing to rattle the car apart Trying to keep it around 800-900 for everything Suggestions, comments, please!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I have a 15" AA SMD that's powered by a Stetsom 7k2e. I will gain down to 3500 - 4000 watts @ 1 ohm. Biggest enclosure I can fit in the trunk is 4.5 - 4.6^3 before displacement. The sub will take up .24 cubes and bracing .2 That leaves me w ~ 4.05^3 before port. I'll be using a 6" PSP Aeroport. A few questions I have are 1. Do you find port area in the straight length pipe, or at the very end (diameter of the mouth opening)? 2. My PSP has a 6" diameter straight pipe that flares out to 8" at the very end (on both sides). Which number do I use to find port area? 3. Do PSP's really require half the recommended port area as a slot or straight round port? If this is any h…
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Hi all, After many weeks of research and reading reviews, I've decided to go with Diamond Audio components. My choices are Diamond Hex S600s fronts, Diamond D661 raw mids for rear fill and a single Diamond 10 or 12 inch sub, don't know which one yet, depends on amp and that's where you all come in. For the amp, I'm thinking either 1 - the new Diamond D6600.4 to feed the front 75 watts per side and run the rear speakers off the x-over's RAF connection and bridging the amp's rear two channels which will give me 300 watts for the sub. Or 2 - the JL Audio 500/5 to give the fronts 100 watts a side, the rears 25 watts each and the sub 275 watts, or 3 - a 2 channel amp at 150 …
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For the masses Before its asked ..... mic is TL obviously, placed on the glass, sealed up. 3/4 volume on a single 5k at .5ohm. 5 batts and 220amp alt. Out of a trunk!
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