General Audio

Would like to get some feedback on what makes folks make the final decision on the alternator manufacturer they choose to go with for their alternator purchase..

If anyone decides to go with FI - Your choosing to have the BEST. just my2cents Then again there havn't been to many top stereo's to listen to music on at SBN in the last 10 years. Some but not alot. FI showed up with the QUAD all day and I, an oldskooler who thought SPL had killed our sport, have witnessed the second coming. I was very excited to say the least at the best Daytona SBN's in over 10 years thanks to everyone reppin FI. You made the difference. It woulda been the same old thing - we find that one truck hear it walk around until we're back at the same truck. FI brought back the old days where you actually have something to do all day besides charge bat…

Their is going to be a sound comp in my city on June 12th. They have a meter. But they want to use two of their random songs they pick for spl and sq. It's understandable for the sq part of the sound off. But the same song for the spl part? I want to use tones. They are just going to pick music. Which if the song has a 30hz bass line. If I'm tuned to 40hz and play it, my subsonic filter would just cut it out. One guy said "Thats not how it works at a normal sound off. Everyone uses the same track. That's how it's been at every other sound-off I have attended. this isn't my first." What should I say?

Ok, so as stated in the title these are my thoughts and OPINIONS on using a plate amp to power a subwoofer setup in a house and going active in a home environment. This was wrote in a short time period late a night so deal with any rambling that I did and please correct me where you see fit. I would like ya'lls opinion on this article and what needs to be changed, etc, etc. KEEP IN MIND THESE ARE ALL MY OPINIONS, NOT FACT. Thinking of using a big badass rack amp to drive your subs in your house? Thinking of going active in your home setup? If so, you may want to read this

Hey guys, I just wanted your opinions on what enclosure would be better in terms of "loudness". That may be defined differently for some of you, but I'm looking for a low boomier type of bass. I'm not sure what setup I have planned for will be loudest though. Here's what I got so far: Setup 1: 1 12" Fi Q in a 2.5 cu ft ported enclosure @ 32 hz, running 900w @ 2 Ohms. OR Setup 2: 2 12" Fi Q in a 2.5 cu ft sealed enclosure, both wired down to run 600w each @ 1 ohm. The reason I don't do both speakers in a ported enclosure is because I don't have 4-5 cubes of space to offer in my car trunk. Gotta put the groceries somewhere, you know? Anyways, I'd love to hear some thoughts …

ok well i hooked up my new rw and blew my amp after 2 days and i put a new amp on it and it has ground noise and i tryed another amp it still had ground noise i redid my ground new washer and such and looked at my power and remote wire and i still have the ground noise can you help me thank you

Well because i crashed my BMW im planning to get VW Golf II Here is picture of gold II Im planning to take out back seats and wall 4x12" subs, how does that sound ? Subs would be SPL dynamics V300D2. And run them around 3-4kw RMS. But there is second option also 2x15" subs, what do you think, what would be nicer ? 2x15 or 4x12 ? i prefer 4x12. Hit me up with ideas

Im wanting to purchase new subs for my explorer once i get my tax return. i previously had 2 15" kicker L7s in a ported box power by a memphis mojo 2400 amp. id like to stick around paying a 1000.00 for subs/amp/head unit. maybe a little more. id still like to get 2 15's. i had the last sytem 4 years ago so ive been out of the loops on good sub/amp combos. could i get some recommendations please. im wanting to be very loud, not to worried about SQ either.

I was wondering wht would be a good amp to run 4 15" btl subs on to get the best performance .....let me kno

I have a 2014 Ford F150 with sync and the 4.2 screen of which there are no options for aftermarket stuff anyways. I cant find a unit that will plug into the factory harness. I could do this and buy a headunit but I dont want too http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-5830B-2013-Up-Factory-4-2-Inch/dp/B00FDW51C2 I was going to buy this untill I saw that is was only good untill 2012. And upon further reading there is nothing for the 2013 and 2014s http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=548&Cate.. So now I am not sure what to do to get my pre amps. I found this but this is for a new stereo, not pre amps.... http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120AXAFD…

what would it take to have surround sound in a vehicle and about how much will it cost to do so

lol funny topic but true..heres the deal..latly i been really thinking if i need 4 18's since i will never compete and with all these noise violation laws..i think 2 18's will be enough for me..if they are not then no biggie just order 2 more..but heres the deal..do you guys think its justifiable to spend $1200 on sound deadening on just 2 18's? am i going over board? the plan is to go single layers on doors and double up every where else..which consists of 240 sq ft of damp pro and 160 sq ft of damp regular..so what you guys think? i just dont want to feel like the fools who buy rims that cost 3-5 times more then there car is worth..lol

Hi guys The last forum I was a member on misguided me terribly Please help me with some questions I have thanks! 1. can i use 2 ground wires for lower resistance? 2. are 5/7 eq band head units pointless for a bass head since the eq should be at 0 anyways? 3. why is a 4v headunit better than 2v? 4. do you guys with multiple alternators have custom belts made? 5. what specifically is in an expensive amp that a cheaper brand does not have? 6. how can these guys patent a basket design? is it their reward for finding the most effecient design first? 7. why don't people use the 21" incriminator death penalty more often in builds? 8. what is the difference betwee…

Got some of these in.. and I was pretty impressed. I was so impressed I put it up to the ultimate sound deadner stress test.... a proper pint. The foil is crazy stiff. They come in 6" x 10" pieces.

give me some ideas, its not going to be expensive at all, just like a 5 channel and speakers and a 8'er, just curious as to what you guys would want in there

Trying to get some ideas on what could have caused this . . Installed 2 ppi 900.4s and a taramp 10kw in a vehicle yesterday and tested everything and every this dead quiet. Not a bit of any noise. Later last night we installed a ampere 9k in the vehicle and now im getting sounds through the mids and highs . . Only thing that was done was taking out the taramp, putting in the ampere and installing a new volt meter . . Just trying to get some ideas befor I go into the shop today on What could have cause this when just changing the sub amp

I was wondering if there are any car audio magazines that are actually worth while? I picked up a pasmag today at Chapter to take a look at it.. it seemed alright? Just seems like more tits than audio..

Basically im not a Co Ax expert. I need one with clean highs, low end extension i dont really care abotu and try to keep it around $75 if yo ucan. i THINK i need 6x8's. as efficent as possible. They are for my GF's moms explorer, doing Co Ax's and a little ported 10. i want drop ins so i have as little fabrication as possible.

I have two kicker cvx 12" 2006 model subs in a prefab ported box that i believe is 1.25 cubes per chamber (not sure if that is net or total) and i was just wondering what differences i will see, and how significant they are, if i switch to a either 4.5 or 5.5 cubes net custom box with a single port tuned to 35 hz.

Well, I finally got the last word about my deployment. I ship out right around New Year. Now that I have a time-line I need to get the Neon in saleable shape. I bit the bullet last night an bought the amp. It's an older Kicker KX550.3 3 channel. Fresh refurb. $149 shipped. Now all I need is the sub. Looking for an inexpensive 12 that will work well in a small sealed enclosure and 200@4 or 400@2 for power. The build will take place over the next 3 weeks before I ship out. More sooner than later. The current trunk install comes out this weekend and the build begins. I'll start a build log in the correct section. Looking for ideas for the sub. Needs to be a 12. …

Hey guys... i just went out and bought a new Jig Saw. Mine decided to blow up earlier today while i was working on my new box.... pissed me off cause i would have had it done by now but no it had to die. It was already pretty f'ed up but oh well here is some pics of my new Black and Decker jig saw.

well after about 6 months of design and prep work my new install is almost finished. ***it has been Top Secret for the whole time---a few people know about it*** here is some teasers though duel 250 amp alts----1 subwoofer----1 amp----1 HU----a few batterys don't worry----i will post pics when finished

I just picked up a set of ascendant audio carbon 6.5 and tweeters. They did not come with crossovers. Im switching to a kenwood ddx371 or Pioneer avh4200. Well either one have the crossovers internally to run them or could passive crossovers work and if passive is a better option than the head units listed which crossovers would be best. Thank you for you time as all I have had in the past is coaxial speakers and since ordering two 12" DSS Ethos and a bc3500 I know the rest needs upgraded. Also my mtx te404 amp running high/mid and is extremely limited on setting the crossover. Thank you

Ok, I have like 3 8'x16'' long boards of 7 layer plywood. i am going to make a box 40x12x12 for two 10 TC7s. Should I go buy MDF or would the 7 layer plywood work just as well? the box will be ported using 3' big 14'' long areo ports.