General Audio

OK so I am new to the SSA forum. I have made my noob intro on the noob intro page already and now I am making my 1st official post. So, I have a new 2010 VW CC R-Line. It has the Premium 8 non-Dynaudio system. The system is mediocre at best. I really like the head unit however. I like the functions and the way it looks. So I want to keep that! The speakers have to go. There are two comp sets. I believe the front set is something like a 7" woofer and a 1" tweet. Rear is 6.5" woofer and 1" tweet. So basically any 6.5" comps will work. Mounting depth is good so anything 3" or less will work. I am getting this 5 channel Kenwood amp . Why? Because I like it's small footprint (…

Well, the car is in the shop getting a new transmission(6 speed ftw) and a comptech supercharger installed, and i got to thinking...it's time to make my front stage louder. I've got my setup reinstalled and been tuning it myself for the past couple months and it just isn't loud enough for me. I went over to the local hood shop and heard a setup in a maxima that had 1 10" electro voice mid in the door, b&c mid in the kick and a selenium super tweet in the a pillar and it sounded AMAZING. Not only that, it was loud enough to keep up with 3 10" l7's in a 4th order bandpass box. Now i have the itch to try out pro audio drivers. Specs are in the sig but there's been 2 ch…

Alright so when I get out of college soon i plan on buying a Mitsubishi Evo as I am completely in love with them lol. Ive got an Fi BL 15 now and it just doesn't do it for me, not loud enough at all. I would love to have a ridiculously loud setup for the next car, and was considering an SUV so I can go even louder, but hate driving them. What is the loudest setup I can put in a car without walling it off and without worrying about the windshield cracking on me? Would love to stick with Fi and upgrade to btl's. Would one Fi btl 18 be too much, or two btl 15's? How many watts roughly until i have to worry about the windshield?

Ok so let me say that im brand new to this forum as you can see first post. I been interested in fi car audio for awhile now. TO THE POINT. I got a ford taurus ses stock. (leather interior) . IM GETTIN A FI BTL 15" ANY IDEAS??? I DONT UNDERSTAND ALL THOSE OTHER ADDED ACCESORIES BUT IF THEY HELP I WILL BUY. I also need opinions on amp and best way for a 15" fi btl in a 2002 ford taurus ses i want this car to QUAKEEEE!!!!! .. eventually ill upgrade to 2x fi btls

Hey guys..im not really sure if this is the right section to put this in, so if its not fell free to move it. Well tonight i got all my wires ran through my car for the new sub. We got everything ran, amp hooked up, sub hooked up, and it all worked perfect. The sub sounded fine. I went out for a little drive with a couple buddies, and we had the music up at a decent volume just to here how loud the bass could get. When we got back to my house we sat and listen to it for a little bit longer doing the same thing. Car was running the whole time. I went to get into the car to change to a different song and i noticed that my check gauges light was on, and that the temperature…

Currently in my car I have a pair of Alpine SPR-13Ss (http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/spr-13s/), and I also have an 18" SSD @ 32hz in a 9cuft box. The SSD is extremely loud, and depending on the song, tends to drown out my fronts. So I was looking at trying to run some pro audio so I can get a clear and loud front stage that can be heard over my sub. I was reading some threads, and saw these tweets: Selenium ST350 Super Tweeter I'm sure they will more than outperform my current tweeters. I was also looking at this midbass: Selenium 10PW3-SLF 10" Driver The only problem with 10" midbass is making custom pods for my doors. I have never done anything like that, and w…

I'm on Knukonceptz.com right now and i'm filling my cart with all the shit i'm going to need. I got 100 ft Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 (50ft blue / 50ft black) Two sets of Krystal Kable 2 Channel 6M Twisted Pair RCA Cable (that reminds me, where can i buy remote wire?) Now, i cannot think of how much speaker wire i'm going to need. I'm pretty sure i'm going with KASA Kable Silver Plated 10 Gauge Speaker Wire Car Audio Wire BUT i don't know how much... the 2 amps are going to be mounted to the box and the amount of speakers i have is 2. Suggestions? I don't want to over shoot by 40 feet considering i'll never end up using it and at 3 bucks a foot it'll big a pretty nice amou…

Hi guys, I bought a PAC Audio adapter to "add an amp" to my factory stereo. The adapter runs around $100 from the PAC site, so I did a little price checkin' around the net. I found a great deal on ebay for $75. shipped from a car dealership out of New York. So I ordered. Everything arrived great, got it installed, and started tweeking the amp. Everything worked great for 2 weeks, when all of a sudden the PAC part burned up. I contacted PAC and they told me they can't help me because I bought it from a NON-AUTHORIZED DEALER. What a funkin' joke I think PAC stands for Piece-O-Chit. So anyway, I think I'll keep my factory set-up and buy an older vehicle so I dont have to mes…

I don't think I've seen any boats on here yet, so I decided to take a few pictures of a customer boat I did at work today. It's still in progress. He have 2 10" Kenwood Sub, one in each compartment in fron and 2 Kenwood Coax speakers in the back. There are 2 more sets going in the front in the walk through or under the benches. All powered by the New Kenwood XR5s 5 channel amp and an Excelon Deck. This thing ROCKS! it's loud and definitely a beach party boat. It has been party proofed so no drunk people fry everything! Heres some Pictures. Even with a Set of 6.5 Coax speakers, this thing gets loud! The customer remove all the carpet and the seats for our con…

Working with: 2-12" Fi-BL's Fully Loaded Duall Shwans 1-3k Saz-Sundown 2001-Steve's exacto model 144.8 db's on Young Jeezy aka the snowman b!tch lol

I have some pretty good pieces of car audio for sale and I really need some money for college so that's why there for sale. This is what's available; Fi Q 15 w/BP power: $225 each Cadence DCA-2500: $400 Boston Pro 50s: $150 Alpine PDX 2.150: $150 I have two of the Fi Qs and only one of all the other items. If you want all of them, I'll sell it all for $1000 plus shipping but I'll throw in power wire, 6 channel patch cable, and distribution block. All that is worth about $200 and it's what was used for this system so you know you'll have everything to get it running. I lost pics and the gear is stored right now so if you interested and require pictuers let me know and I'…

Either one will be in ~2.8^3 after displacements tune to 30-32Hz. Q 15D2 would be run with an AP15001D. Xcon 15D2 would be run by an AP18001D. This will be a daily ground pounder setup that I might throw in a bass race when a show comes town. Looking to be musical, get low, and still be loud. Electrical will be a 140 amp ho alt, red top up front, 100ah in trunk. Which choice do you think would better suit my wants? Thanks.

i am about to get some power wire for my big 3 upgrade and i was wondering wether it matters if i get a cheaper 0 guage wire or shell out and go for a brand name / more pricey wire thanks

you guys think its worth rewiring the factory wires on the door speakers with new 16 or 18g?..do they all have to be wired to the front and then to the back ?..do they have to be wired together on a specific side for noise reduction?..thanks for the help i curently have them wired to the hu will be putting a 100 watts into each of them with a 400.4

i have a 2000 ford taurus with a 1500w rms powerbass amp and two 12" kicker cvx's. does anyone have any experience with the taurus for bass? basically i am wondering how involved it would be to upgrade the + wire from my 130 amp alternator (my lights dim and voltage drops), and how well the car handles bass. i am trying to decide whether or not to dynamat extreme the trunk.

One 15" AA SMD of a Stetsom 7k2e. 4^3 tuned ~31 hz w/ 29 sq in of port in a '09 Yaris Sedan. DC Power 320amp alt, big three, all 1/0 wiring, stock battery. I just metered tonightat a local shop and put up a 144.4 w/ peak at ~ 41 hz. My question is "How much would I benefit from more port area? I plan on going from 29 in to 72.5 in thanks

i was trying to figure out how to find out which wire is positive or negative on the door wiring...i changed the speaker on the door and replaced the factory but as i took it out i didnt know which was positive or negative since i didnt hook up the HU ...my friend told me take a batery from a drill and hook it up to the speaker while it was hooked up and if it poped up it was right if it popped down it wasnt..but how could i know which was pos or neg on the drill bat...anyways could i have messed anything up i was hearing weird sounds while i was doing it coming from the back sorry for the book guys lol

Jesus man.

hello ssa, havent been around for some time, and so i got an iphone!! downloaded the pandora app and could not wait to get the dubstep station rockin in my hatch. got it playing on the phone then plugged it in and it starts playing my itunes, bypassing pandora. i have a cda 9847 from when i first got the car. i remember it came with a converter box so you can plug in your ipod into it. im thinking thats just out dated as it doest charge my ipod video and iphone. can you even get a newer one that will work with my hu?

Hey all It seems the general consensus is to use 14"-16" or port area per cube for slot ports, and that flared round ports (aka aeroports) are recommended @ 8"-12" per cube... Now I was thinking about fabricating a port out of Sonotube or the like, and possibly creating some flared ends using fiberglass... What would be a good port area to shoot for? I was figuring if I used a 10" tube that would give me ~78in² Av which for a 6.5ft³ enclosure after displacements nails it right at 12" per cube. For an 18" driver. Thanks

I've been out of the game for a while, and I'm hoping for some good recommendations. I installed my system about 6 years ago and haven't really upgraded it since them. Then some guy decided it would be fun to break my rear window and steal my subwoofer and amps. Gone is my Soundsplinter RL-p15 and some old school PPI amps. Not to mention my custom-molded fiberglassed enclosure and amp rack. Sigh. So like I said, I've been out of the game for a while, and I preemptively apologize for the newbie question. But I'm hoping that someone can toss out a quickie listing of the internet-favorite subs right now so I can focus my research a bit. I'll probably downgrade to a 12" sub s…

Why's this shit so expensive? I mean the prices are crazy, are they made of pure gold? Anybody heard these? Focal Website

so i have decided to go with a setup that would have a set of Rainbow 3-way components up front, which i believe would eliminate my need for rear speakers. so the question at hand is, when i remove the rear speakers would i be better off leaving the speaker holes open or closing them up? the car is a 99 Altima, the rear speakers are 6.5" and the setup in the trunk is a SSA XCON 18 in a 5.4 cu ft sealed enclosure.

Can anybody explain to me what each of these does and how can it benefit the sound I'll be reproducing in my system. The deck I will be using will be the Alpine CDA-9887 Also do i have to or need to measure anything when I do time alignment I wanna be able to do this right the first time and for the last time in my vehicle. Any suggestions welcomed

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/ele/1861108151.html had to post this up here cause it wouldnt get noticed in the CL section