General Audio

Hello everyone. It's been a while since I've posted here. I've been driving and enjoying the stereo in my truck for awhile, and now I wanted to make a couple of changes and I was looking for some advice and/or guidance in doing so. The current situation... I have a Ram pickup which currently consists of the following: Stock Uconnect head unit -> JL cleansweep -> front channels Audio Control DQT -> Alpine PDX-F6 CH1&2 150x4 -> ID XS-65 Components (using the XS x-over and tweeter. The 6.5 has been replaced with an Eminence Alpha after blowing the XS6" mid) . Rear channels go from clean sweep to PDX-F6 ch 3&4 -> ID CTX69 6x9's. …

I am trying to plan out my build so that I can place things and make my wiring but I have a few questions about a few things. I have a 1/0 run of power from my front going back to 2 extra batteries. I will be upgrading my big 3 4g with all 1/0 wires. In the back of my trailblazer will be the extra batteries. Now, I will just run the main power wire to the first battery then run a short wire to the + on the second battery, correct? And as far as the ground.. I'm sure it would be best to ground both batteries off to the frame... Should I run a short wire between the 2 -'s on both the extra batteries as well? And I'm also assuming that along with the fuse after the battery u…

Ok starting yesterday my car began to smoke and smell like burning so I popped the hood to find nothing. I noticed that it was coming from the wheel well and ended out figuring out it was a part of some wiring that was melting very badly. It has now made it so my parking break remains on and driving again tonight it began to smell and my ABS light on my car began to flash. Any advice on what it is or what I should do.

What is a good alternator brand to look into, and what are the bad thing that could happen if I upgrade my alternator?

Hey Guys I'm some what new to car audio so please bear with me and be easy on me (I have searched and still cannot find the answer...) well to clarify my case even further I'm an car audio enthusiast but I've never done my *OWN sub and amp install and stuff i only put in my deck,cd changer,etc etc.. so yea =/ still novice at this!!) (first 2 system installs amp, and subs were done by a local shop big ass rip off I paid more than 900.00 Each time, I Want To Try Setting Up, And Installing My Own System (amp/subs) so i can save some money...) Replaced My Battery...and (attempted to do a BIG 3, found the thread and all but got confused so Chickened out :'( was trying to view…

Just bought some american bass 10" xr (2 of them) Will run it off of a audiopipe apsm 2000 Planning on putting them in trunk It's a Chrysler Sebring coupe Trunk space about 36width height about 16 Depth about 24 Would appreciate it Thanks!

My screws keep backing out of my box and my sub starts slapping up against my box. Only 1 does it and not the other. What's my solution? I have to tighten them everyday! They are 2 18 hdc3's

Ok so I've been trying to troubleshoot alternator whine through my 4 channel since I've installed it. Let me first list my equipment. Car: 2004 Grand Prix GT no monsoon system, no onstar Headunit: JVC KD-720 (old, bought it back in 2007 or something) U-35 cable converting cd changer to AUX EXT IN is in use. Wired this to cars harness myself as I did not need the expensive PAC harness, as I didnt care if I maintained onboard date/time display or door chimes. 4 channel amp: SSL F400, poopy I know, but this is my first time hooking up a 4 channel so babysteps 6x9s: Infinity Reference 691.3 3-way, Using a pair of stinger bass blockers on them to just get use of frequencies 15…

I pieced together a simple system for my friend, 2008 F-150 Ex-Cab. I installed everything which is.. Pioneer deh-p7200hd, 4 gauge amp kit, Kicker kx400.1 and today we built a box for the brand new sa-8 which is 14 width 13 height 14 depth. port is 12.5 width 1.5 height...after sub and port displacement its supposed to be .821 tuned at 34hz. I have it wired to 1 ohm. Well heres the PROBLEM. It sounds bad and should be 10x louder and lower. A friend of mine has a single sa-8 in a 1.0 cube box tuned to 34hz on 50watts and it SLAMS in his hatchback and its even 10x louder and lower in his piece of shit suzuki samurai so i know there has to be something wrong with the box sp…

So I have found some things messing up in my tahoe. I have two 21" death penalty's pushed by a new 40.1 and it is murdering my tahoe. Do I tone it down and go with a ""SQL"" setup with something like a pair of lethal injection 12's or keep going the way I am and have a junker for a daily driver. Or do I break out my 88 s10 blazer which already has a layer of damp pro all over and custom door pods and great kenwood hu in it, just sitting out back wasting away, and build a clamshell wall for it? Only problem with it is it has a old under powered small block 305 in it and when you turn the a/c on it overheats. Could I find alternators and beakers for it? Or…

well im building my box for 2 15" dc audio XL's and i was winder should i go all out on the box plexi windows and lights or just stick to the basics?

ok so im pretty much a newbie to the audio world i have a 1996 jeep cherokee with only front door speakers and i have bigger alt and bat, and i listen to rap, metal, country, everything, and i want a nice sounding system, i will need a deck with aux port, and speakers that sound clean and clear, and a single sub, i dont need to break windows lol, so if you guys have any suggestions let me know, i would like to keep it under $900. thanks

At what frequency does a tone go from unidirectional to omnidirectional? Im considering doing a wall build. I could fit 2 -12" or possibly 4-10" midbass pa speakers behind the seats to use strictly for midbass to keep up with the subs and the 4 pairs of 6.5's I have in my front doors. I know this isnt the best way (sq wise) to go about doing it but i really love strong midbass and it has been something i have been lacking for quite some time now.

Got a few questions about my setup before i order everything so help would be appreciated. In order to prevent further displacement I'm considering adding a baffle to the outside of the enclosure. - Will this be a sufficient amount of support for the sub vs a baffle on the interior? - When using Psp.com's calculator for aeroports it asks to input "Volume of Box in Cubic Feet" is this before or after all displacements? - Can someone provide a link for instructions or a diagram on how i am supposed to wire under hood batter>trunk battery>amps - How should i wire the (2)saz1500's to (2)FI BL Dual 1 looking to get the whole 1500w to each sub individually? - Suggest a b…

.............. I don't have that much $$$ flow right now and my current setup of 2 JL 10"s just aren't doing the trick. I was offered a box that holds two 12"s but I don't know the dimensions of the box (it was in an 88 Camaro) ........ I was wondering what would be a cheap way for me to get by with some good sounds........... I was thinking maybe 2 Rockford HX2's and some somewhat cheap amp............ any help/recommendations would be largely appreciated........ Thanks, Jonathan Idk...... maybe some Audiobahn's or something......... I'm up for any info or recommendation........ Thanks …

my friend has a 2001 s10 xcab and wonts to pound the groung he has a budget of $2500 and needs everthing--hu-amps-mids-hi--subs--box---what we have now is a used 225amp alt-$100.00 and 3-kinetik 800's-$275.00 new got a good deal--he's looking at a hifonics xxv colossus-$550.00--tell me what you think would be a good setup for the truck--he has $2125.00 left to spend let us no what you think

Best friend wants to upgrade his system on his 1999 Jeep Cherokee. $1000 Budget for front comps, subwoofer and box, big 3, door sound deadening, 2 channel, and mono amp. Currently has a headunit. Older alpine not exactly sure right now but i will find out. Not sure if it could run active and i know he wants to keep it simple. Loves House music and also listens to Rap and Rock. Currently he has 2 front and 2 rear alpine type s coaxials running off a headunit with a kenwood mono amp and an alpine type r - a real best buy type of system. So any pair of components off a 2 channel amp would be satisfying to him. I'm pretty sure we are going to have to keep it passive.…

The face is copper carbon fiber. Got the pioneer f90bt, Focal 165vr, saz 1500d, sax 100.4 and other stuff.

Originally posted on caraudio.com Well as most of you know, I recently finished the system I have been waiting for forever.... if not look in my sig. But anyway.... I was driving to work today, playing a song at low volume that doesn't have very much bass at all.... and suddenly I hear this horrible "pop" from my trunk. So, I turned the volume down all the way, and about that time, the most godawful sound came out of the subs.... extrememly loud and fart sounding. When I went to check it out... two of them were blown. Anyone who knows me knows that everything was installed correctly... subs wired correctly, gain set to match input voltage, low bass boost setting.... etc …

These are a few pictures of my system now. I am going to be completely redoing the whole thing, and adding another RE XXX 12" and an 2 RE 36.1s. Here they are::::

I have the opportunity to grab the hi energy set for cheap bnib. I'm looking for loud but clear vocals with a fair amount of mid bass at loud volumes. I'll be running the full power or more to the set. And be fiber glassing pods for the Mids and the tweeters. I listen to all kinds of music mainly rap and alternative rock. The vehicle is 2000 gmc Sierra. Has anyone heard a set? Do you like the way they sound?

Car: 02 mazda protege cabin speakers: pair of hertz mlk 165 comps cabin amp: ??? trunk bat: stinger spv70 sub: 12'' dc lvl 4 sub amp: sundown sae1200d headunit: alpine 9887 source: ipod Processors: audio control epicenter Interests: listening to loud music while driving, mostly rock / alternative / indie / punk music. my sub is in a 2 cu ft slot ported box tuned to 30 hz. what amp would you suggest for my cabin comps? I'm looking for a 2 channel that I can run with the passive crossovers. I'd prefer something thats pretty efficient, don't need any crossovers or anything like that on it, because I'm just using the passive crossovers. And if I ever decide to go active, I ca…

Thank you XTRMEASURES for letting me know about this forum.... thought id introduce myself before i start posting,My names Randy and i take care of RAs R&D and QCs here at powerbass,we're pleased to see everyones intrest in our equipment if we can be of any help dont hesitate

hey all. i recently upgraded my amp to an audiopipe ap1500d and it bangs..great amp for the price and i recommend them for anyone on a budget. i am running the amp at only about 1/4 gain which is roughly 1000 rms or a little more i believe. it is powering an ssa icon 12'' and is running at 1 ohm with one run of 1/0 and upgraded battery to chassis ground (1 of the big 3). my question is everything ok here? i know my electrical is lacking (external batt. and what not) but im away at college at the moment and have to drive home any time i want to do upgrades because my resources are limited here. i just want to make sure my amp is not being stressed and i am not hurtin…

Any of you emm-effers coming down to Tucson for the USACi event on Feb 10? Meet up? Beer? Whatever? http://www.importfaceoff.net/tucson.htm