General Audio
An Open Forum Dedicated To all audio questions that do not fall under the other specific categories.
3,954 topics in this forum
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I have a 2008 Mustang GT/CS that I'm in the process of installling a complete system in. I'm ordering either 1 or 2 12" SKAR audio VVX's pushed by a AP15001D, with a custom ported box for the lows. I will be running my audio through a Pioneer AVHP3100DVD HU. I want to replace the factory door speakers so that I have the ability for the sound to not get drowned out by the subs. I'm not looking for the bentley of speakers, so I'm going to try and keep a budget of 500$ for a set of speakers for the doors and an amplifer. Mounting location: Front Doors Size: 6x8" Power: In need of amp Budget: 500$ I've never been in anyones car with a proper audio system so I have no refre…
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well here's the deal. I've been into music production and recording engineering for a few years now. I've just recently got the idea to incorporate these skills into my car audio hobby. I'm posting a song below which I produced myself that peaks around 43-48 hz. I know it's not quite as low as most of you like to pound to, but hey it's my first attempt at making one of these. I'd like to get some feedback from you guys as to what you think I should do as far as going about making these tracks. I'd love to continue making them for the fellow members to use in their demo's/videos. If you guys could check out the song, download it and try it out and leave some feedback and/…
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Im trying to upgrade my current system myself. I have a 2002 Toyota Camry with stock speakers(3.5's on the dash, 6x9's on the front doors and rear deck). I have a Crescendo s800.4 which I will be running 2 Crescendo FT1's tweeters(replacing the 3.5's), and 6.5 PWX's(replacing the ones on the front doors). How would i wire them to the amp so i can have them for the front channel as i will have my stock rears running off my deck until i upgrade those down the road. The FT1's are 8ohms and the 6.5's are 4 ohms. My subs will be 2 FI BL's running off the BD2000 from Crescendo.
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Anybody deal with AudioSavings? There Canada shipping policy seems.. ok. "Canada Shipping: All shipping to Canada will receive lightning quick 2-3 day DHL air delivery and brokerage will be prepaid, saving you a lot of money!"
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Name off some high power subs (anywhere above 1000 watts RMS) with a low Fs (below 30 hz) and preferable a 15"
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i got an ext cab s10 got rid of the blazer and i got an atomic 5000.1 and im thinking eith 2 btl 18's 2 auqioque 18's or 4 q 15's sealed.want something thats gonna move some air and slam pretty good with 5000 watts what would you do?
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Well I'm trying to talk to my dad about my system, keep in mind I'm only 16. And he is funding for most of my first system. I was talking to him about building a box and everything and he said it was too much work when you could just go out and buy a nice prefab box. Well of course I explained to him that a decent prefab 4.0cuft box will be like $150 shipped, why do that when you can make your own for like $50. He went on about carpeting the box and how the fiber board falling apart or something when you drill down the screws? So he said why don't you just get one of those loaded enclosures and amps from best buy or circuit city? I tried to explain that those are overpri…
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Well i went to my first show today since my truck was vandalized and robbed. It was a local car club show and although it rained the show turned out great. I entered in the mini truck and the DB classes. I didn't win for mini truck but i did take 3rd in the DB drag. There were roughly 10 cars that actually had something decent that were allowed to compete. I think i did pretty good being that 1st and 2nd went to sponsored vehicle's. They were using Memphis audio amps and 1 mojo i think 15 each. There setups were identical. on being in a 02ish cavalier and the other in a 06 Grand prix. The cavalier had a wall in the backseat and the Prix just had a nice box in the truck. …
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ok----after alot of thought-----I know everything didn't go as planned but what does----I'm sorry if we didn't get to do everything we wanted to---Aaron, sorry about the length of time it has taken on your doors----I think alot of us were thinking kicks not pods---but no big deal---I think it was fun to get everyone we could together----and you are all welcome back(except for Webster----he calls me names j/k lol)-----I would like some feedback(truthful) on this past weekend----as it was my first time hosting such an event------I know we can have more----but I want the next ones to be ALOT better. Thanks,
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This was brought to my attention in thread on another board. The sub continuous power ratings had changed on the website and a couple poster mentioned that they'd be willing to bet it came from retailers complaining about losing sales because the stuff wasn't rated as high as others, even though you don't have to be a rocket scientist to look at the motor structure and suspension on a 13W6 a know it can handle just a tad more than 500W continous. I was surprised however at how much they had underated their stuff. I always figured it was by 100-150W max, but most of them jumped at least 200W. Anyways, I contacted my buddy JC at Audio Advisors, who are the biggest retailer…
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My beef with second skin - DIYMA.com Considering I'd guess it'll be deleted or reworked, I'll quote the thread here. Particularly funny to me since Ant argued with me over the benefits of including the CCF on the MLV a few times. I guess he finally realized.
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Nothing more than minor cuts, scrapes, and pinches here - mainly from removing panels. Sliced my finger somewhat with a utility knife once, wasn't fun. Anyone else have any other interesting injuries sustained during installation? - Steve
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Hey guys, just a simple question and looking for some opinions on how the quality of a music file on a USB flash drive compares to, lets say an Ipod via USB connection. What are your thoughts? And are there any noticeable differences?
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I have a friend in America that keeps saying Fiat Panda gets very loud and I should buy one for my project. It has something to do with the vehicle's acoustics and the shape of the car... like Honda CRX's. Sean and Jacob are at SBN right now, and Sean said there is a Panda ... Something like 158db - 2 x 15's In Bulgaria I can find some Pandas for cheap... the cheapest one is 350$ ! And some better ones for about 500-700$. What do you guys heard about Pandas? Is it true about them and SPL? I am thinking about two Nightshades 18's or 15's if there is not enough space. Wall or no wall? If I go with a wall does the vehicle really matter that much? With a box somewhere in …
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I have an iPhone 11 and using Apple Music and Spotify free Trial and in streaming over Bluetooth HU is an older pioneer probably 4 years old . Non CarPlay . The music doesn’t sound as full to me , am I crazy or is there an actual difference? I hate the thought of having to plug my phone in every time so I haven’t even tried the phone wired.. but when I swap back to music on my usb stick omg sounds so much cleaner.
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Well my starting batt decided to poop out today. I noticed a lower charging voltage than normal, I shut my truck off and voltage dropped from 12.8 to 12 with in 5 min so my front batt is pulling my rear batt down. I went outside an hour later and it was at 10.5 so I'm guessing bad cell in my front batt, it is 5 or 6 yrs old. So I am prolly gonna get a dura last platinum. It's the agm version of the duralast gold. Any other suggestions?
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Hey all. The time has finally come for me to enter my first comp tomorrow. I will be in a 2001 galant and my setup will be 2 American Bass XD 12's, a planet audio BB2 2400 rms 3000 max sub amp and (don't laugh) a dual 4 channel amp for my mids which are brand X. I know this setup is really crappy to most of you but I have worked hard to get it this way and it doesn't sound half bad. I don't really care how I do or anything I just really don't want to embarrass myself when I show up. I will take pics if I can and let you guys know how it went. Can't wait!!!! W00T
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Hi guys, within the next couple weeks I'll be getting my new amp that is a mono with only 1 set of speaker inputs (1 + and 1-). I have 2 speakers. Any ideas on how to mate the wires with the amp? My thought was to just get a couple of distro blocks instead of cramming wires into the amp. Thanks For all you info freaks I will be wiring it this way: (4 ohm-----4 ohm) (4 ohm----4 ohm) (2 ohm) (2 ohm) (1 ohm) Another p…
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Hi everybody!!!!!,thinking of buying the RL-i 10 but i'm not sure should i get dual 4ohm or single 4ohm. the amp i have right now is a alpine m850 500 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (800 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms)
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I'm considering getting a box built for 2 10" subs (or at least a box will be made for the subs). I'm wondering if there are any problems with putting in 2 terminal cups / 2 leads. Reason being is I'm running 1k right now. I might want to run 2 amps at 1k a piece. OR, I might just change my mind and run one big amp. If the box is made with 2 leads, then I will never have any issues but if it's made with just the one, I can never use 2 amps. So, are there any issues down the road? In particular, one big amp across two terminal cups? Without the issue of it changing final ohm loads of course (non issue).
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Hey everyone! Im going to be buying my first subwoofer very soon! Right now im looking into an AA havoc 15" with an AudioQue 1200D in a 4.0cf enclosure tuned to 32hz. But more talk about the subwoofer. This subwoofer will cost about $500..... This is toooooo much money. And then i saw the fi q 15"! its about $390 shipped. Is it worth spending another $110 to get the Havoc? Im looking for SPQL (dont know if that exist sound pressure quality level) Thanks for the help!
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In my town, we have absolutely nobody to consult for car audio...so I am in dire need of some advice. I have about $1000 budget (as posted above). I just put in a pioneer head unit, so that part is taken care of. With the budget, Ide like to replace the 4 stock speakers (all 5 1/4", 2 in the rear roof, 2 in the front door panels). And then I am sacrificing some space in the trunk for a sub box. My dimensions are 20" height, 35" width, 15" bottom depth", 8" top depth. I have no idea on what direction I want to go other than Im thinking 2 12's with the space I have and an amp to match them, but I really want to avoid extra batteries and alternators and so forth (if I can).…
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I have a 2006 Mazda3 and a Kenwood DDX470 headunit. I also have Infinity 6829CF door speakers in my front doors, with stock speakers in the rear. Lastly, I have a Hifonics Brutus 1600.1D amplifier powering two Kicker CVX 10's at 1,200RMS @ 2Ohms. My problem is when I crank up my music, car on or off (but more so when the car is off), the radio will sometimes turn off and restart. My radio goes up to 35 on the volume wheel, with 32 being my self set distortion limit. I'm not sure it's really the song that matters, but I can crank up a song with a lot of bass to 32, and after beating away for 10 seconds or sometimes even less, the radio will just restart and then work nor…
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my boss wants me to build him a nice center channel for his house, cause i do all the car audio for everyone at the shop. but what does a center channel consist of? isn't it usually like 2 4's and a tweet, or something like that? what freq range does this channel need to cover. is there any other pertinant information that i should know before attempting to build this?
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probley about to do 6 12" gcons and wondering if i should go with a ported wall or bandpass wall, wanting it to sound really good with music not just trying to get high numbers, going to be on 5 to 6000 watts, somewhere around there
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