General Audio

What can this be???? Gotta have RCA's! OH YEAH! Looks sooooooooo nice!!!! What is this now???????? Hope I get some good SPL with these! (Fully loaded 12 inch SSD's) I didnt even pay attention does the amp take 4 awg wire only?

I need a system that will protect my car from thieves. Any ideas for a good alarm?

Their is going to be a sound comp in my city on June 12th. They have a meter. But they want to use two of their random songs they pick for spl and sq. It's understandable for the sq part of the sound off. But the same song for the spl part? I want to use tones. They are just going to pick music. Which if the song has a 30hz bass line. If I'm tuned to 40hz and play it, my subsonic filter would just cut it out. One guy said "Thats not how it works at a normal sound off. Everyone uses the same track. That's how it's been at every other sound-off I have attended. this isn't my first." What should I say?

Looking over my setup, now that it is out of my car, I have a question just because I want to recheck myself. My setup consists of (2) 12" D2 XCON's, (2) SAZ-1500D's Strapped, and 1400 Kinetik Batterey, along with the wiring and blah blah blah. Would I want a Series/Parallel wiring setup for this, or a Parallel/Parallel? Or does it even matter?

A friend of mine who is new to car audio unplugged his hifonics amp and didnt know to remove the connection to the battery when plugging it back up. He hooked the ground up first then he hooked up the power, it started arc welding inside and he removed it. I got over there and removed the fuse, hooked the wires up then when i put the fuse in, the fuse blew immediately. So i assumed he blew the power supply since the stereo wasn't on. He uses one of those devices to convert speaker outputs from stock headunit into rcas. So i put my amp in there and everything was fine. When i took my amp out, we decided to hook the amp up again.. if the fuse blew again... then we knew is w…

hi ive done the big three and now i'm looking at a 2000rms amp and looking to add a 2nd battery to run it and i was wondering if some one could explain how to do this and is it worth it to help the electrical of my car for an amp that size

So I am going to do a new audio install on a '00 mercedes e320 and I'd like to run it by this crew to see if anyone has any suggestions. I am not very experienced at car audio but i am convinced that with a set of Crutchfeild mastersheet instructions and the help from a friend who has done several installs i can do it. So heres the setup. Head Unit: Alpine iDA x305s with the PXA h100 imprint processor along with the KTX h100 to get it set up (this is extremely intriguing to me and I want to try it any opinions on wether I should get it or not?) Component Speakers (front only): Image Dynamics CTX 65cs Speaker amp: Sundown Audio SAX 125.2 Subwoofer: 15" Fi BL (still looking…

So i have tried searching and couldn't find anything specific about what kind of bolts to use for bolt terminals and how to install them. I usually run the wire right threw my box but i want to try some terminals this time. I tried looking for copper because copper is a good conductor but i could not find any. So what is the next best kind of bolts to use? How do you screw them on? I was thinking about putting some t nuts in the box on the inside and screwing my ring terminals into those then attaching the wire on the outside with bolts. any input would be greatful.

Trying to make a few decisions. First, I have a 2005 Ford 500 SEL Edition, I am trying to decide if I should have my subs facing the trunk, or facing the seating part of the car. Second, anyone out there with XCON's that has had them sealed and ported and could tell me which one they seemed to think is better. I've have them ported, but I am curious to hear what they sound like sealed. Third, If I decide to stay ported, I am going to redo the enclosure for them, but having a hard time deciding what tuning to use, any recommendation? My last enclosure, I can't tell you anything about, seeing as it was junk in my opinion, and the person who built it in my opinion was an idi…

My FI BTL15 is on its way and right now im working on getting the money for a high output alternator...locally a guy can make me a 120 Amp Alt. Is a 120 Amp alt enough to power the 15" Btl????...im going to be running a Hifonics BRZ 2100 at 1 ohm probably round 1900-2000watts steadily....im an everyday banger so its gunna be seeing a lot of work I have a Kinetik HC1400 as my main battery and a HC2000 in the trunk (Upgraded Big 3 to 0AWG)

I have temporary bass right now that I paid about $60 bucks for, its a alpine type e in a pre-fab truck box that is about 1cuft and ported to a high frequency I am guessing, its running on my zx750 pretty strongly. Like expected there is absolutely no bottom end compared to my ssd 15 lol, I wanna order another type e for 60 and make my own box this week. Would these sound decent with about 2.5 cuft each and tuned to about 34 hz?

K FIRST OFF I FEEL STUPID its one with the 2 prongs coming off do i need to solder those on there and if so what would be the best solder to use i think i got 60 40 or do i need special fitting almost got my door speakers in and done just need some advice on this also i ran out of aluminum wire so i ran copper to two of them i dont think that will hurt will it

I plan on getting some new equipment in July (happy birthday to me ) but I'm having some trouble deciding what I want to do first. I plan on changing everything that's currently installed, except for probably my HU, so this is going to be a slow project (lack of funds, FTL). I honestly have no idea what I want to do. The only thing I know is that I want to keep the sub enclosure small (around 1 cube) and power on the lower side, but I still want it to get decently loud. Budget will be between $250 and $300. A few scenarios I've come up with are: 1) A Sundown SAX 125.2. I'd run my Shiva off it for now, and later on get a Sundown SA-8 and custom ported box. 2) An IA …

CAR AUDIO DECALS and STICKERS Found this website, seems to have a decent selection.

For starters I my name is Matt, I use to have an account on here but I am guessing from the cause of inactivity my account was deleted. I haven't been on here in quite sometime. Probably almost, I don't know to to be honest. I wanted to seek help from all of you from SSA Forums, because I bought 2 12" D2 SSA XCONS, and 2 sundown audio 1500d's almost a year ago. I wanted to bebuild my box for the subs, and I wanted to ask from you guys a little help, lessons, and knowledge from you guys. I am not a pro at car audio nor audio in general. In all honesty, I am an idiot, but I like learning about anything and everything. I have had systems in the past, but what made me buy the…

I have a 15" AA SMD that's powered by a Stetsom 7k2e. I will gain down to 3500 - 4000 watts @ 1 ohm. Biggest enclosure I can fit in the trunk is 4.5 - 4.6^3 before displacement. The sub will take up .24 cubes and bracing .2 That leaves me w ~ 4.05^3 before port. I'll be using a 6" PSP Aeroport. A few questions I have are 1. Do you find port area in the straight length pipe, or at the very end (diameter of the mouth opening)? 2. My PSP has a 6" diameter straight pipe that flares out to 8" at the very end (on both sides). Which number do I use to find port area? 3. Do PSP's really require half the recommended port area as a slot or straight round port? If this is any h…

I have a 98 dodge neon that I was looking to upgrade the sound system on. It is all stock parts except the receiver which was upgraded to a Sony X-plod CDX - GT11W 50W x 4 by the previous owner. I am not all to certain on the size of the speaker, but I think that the doors are 6 1/2 shallow, the rear speakers are 6" x 9", and the middle speaker is a 3 1/2. I don't really know a whole lot about the sound systems of a car, but from what I have read adding an amplifier, upgrading the existing speakers, and utilizing bass blockers would be the main focus. Essentially I am looking for the best possible upgrade in terms of bang for buck. So my question is what parts should I in…

Hopefully this time I can make a decision. I have a 2004 Tahoe, listen to mostly rock, rap, and blues, and want to have a two-way active front stage (finally decided to stay clear from the 3 way active front!). I want to mount in some kick panels, both the mid and the tweeter, which I will either buy from Q-logic or just attempt my own (which is what I am leaning towards). My budget for drivers is up to $500, although I don't think I will need that much. I guess they will be pretty much on-axis and for this project I am considering going more of the SPL route, beyond reference levels, with low distortion which I guess is now referred to as ""SQL"" (e…

Ok, So. I'm going to be getting a 1989 Jeep Cherokee sport soon here, and plan to do a decent build with it. One that I can afford of course. I don't really have a set budget, but I'm just looking for some certain things, and will amass the money over this summer. First of all, I already have a sub for the car, which is currently in my room. 18" Fi SDD (copper coil only) w/ a 9cuft box @32hz. Sounds fantastic off of my receiver in my room. I'm sure it will sound even more fantastic inside of a vehicle with the right amp. I also already have a head unit I got from a friend for cheap, a Pioneer DEH-2100IB. Right now I was looking at the Sundown SAZ-1000D. Seems to be a per…

my bro is getting his 2008 charger sys installed. he has the subs 2 spl15 but they will need space so the box will be built into the trunk. what do ya'll think of this price? the total quote was 2200: the amp is a memphis mojo 2500 $1300 the box is $300 yellow top batt $200 it seems like im missing something but the rest is wiring, relay, amp rack, labor, and other miscellaneous. the only thing else included is the shop gives a 3 year warranty on everything they do, that includes the amp. we usually do this stuff ourself but this is out of our span and we he wants it to look pro' something we dont worry about when we do it.

So i want to use this device to power my REMO on 3amps and 4 fans! 4-Position Dual-Row Barrier Strips - RadioShack.com or 8-Position Jumper - RadioShack.com so will this work for what i need or am i better off just using a relay?

HU - kenwood kdc-hd942u Comps - phoenix gold rsds Amp - mb quart dsc 280 Pic of the amp My friend just got this stuff installed @ a shop and isn't satisfied. He told me it sounds alot cleaner but it's not louder than his stock paper cone speakers were. I told him that more than likely the shop didn't set the gain and i was gonna run through it setting it by ear. We set the high pass on the hu to 80 hz Turned the eq to natural which is flat i believe amp xover was set to full range amp bass eq was set to 0db I told him to pop a retail cd in and turn it up till he heard distortion or a change in the tone..he found that @ 25 out of 35 which i figured was way too low for th…

First off I'd like to say hello, first time posting outside Fi / Argent Audio forums... So don't mind my retarded question, for I am new... Question would have to be, is there a aftermarket mount or something I can install to keep the rear view mirror on my windshield solid and firm, and if not, at least to stop it from doing the goonie's truffle shuffle. If I cant keep it solid, maybe something to absorb most of the movement. Running SAZ1000D & 15' Fi BT, has as good knock to it... Thanks, Dustin

I cant seem to find any website that has a High Output alternator that will fit a 97 Camry thats over 120 amps... is a 120 amp Alternator +Upgrading Big 3 to 0AWG +Main Battery = Kinetik HC2000 +Second Battery in trunk Kinetik HC 1400 will all that be enough power for a Fi Fully Loaded BTL 15"...just ordered the Dual 2 Ohm and im buying the Hifonics BRZ2100D Amplifier im gunna have it in a 3.85 cubic ft box

After what seems like forever, I finally got my box finished today, and got my BTL in my truck and hooked up. I've never heard bass like this before! This thing f***ing POUNDS! I've still not put in my upgraded alternator yet, but the T-1500 seems to be doing fine so far.