General Audio

Ok, So. I'm going to be getting a 1989 Jeep Cherokee sport soon here, and plan to do a decent build with it. One that I can afford of course. I don't really have a set budget, but I'm just looking for some certain things, and will amass the money over this summer. First of all, I already have a sub for the car, which is currently in my room. 18" Fi SDD (copper coil only) w/ a 9cuft box @32hz. Sounds fantastic off of my receiver in my room. I'm sure it will sound even more fantastic inside of a vehicle with the right amp. I also already have a head unit I got from a friend for cheap, a Pioneer DEH-2100IB. Right now I was looking at the Sundown SAZ-1000D. Seems to be a per…

HU - kenwood kdc-hd942u Comps - phoenix gold rsds Amp - mb quart dsc 280 Pic of the amp My friend just got this stuff installed @ a shop and isn't satisfied. He told me it sounds alot cleaner but it's not louder than his stock paper cone speakers were. I told him that more than likely the shop didn't set the gain and i was gonna run through it setting it by ear. We set the high pass on the hu to 80 hz Turned the eq to natural which is flat i believe amp xover was set to full range amp bass eq was set to 0db I told him to pop a retail cd in and turn it up till he heard distortion or a change in the tone..he found that @ 25 out of 35 which i figured was way too low for th…

I have a 15" AA SMD that's powered by a Stetsom 7k2e. I will gain down to 3500 - 4000 watts @ 1 ohm. Biggest enclosure I can fit in the trunk is 4.5 - 4.6^3 before displacement. The sub will take up .24 cubes and bracing .2 That leaves me w ~ 4.05^3 before port. I'll be using a 6" PSP Aeroport. A few questions I have are 1. Do you find port area in the straight length pipe, or at the very end (diameter of the mouth opening)? 2. My PSP has a 6" diameter straight pipe that flares out to 8" at the very end (on both sides). Which number do I use to find port area? 3. Do PSP's really require half the recommended port area as a slot or straight round port? If this is any h…

my bro is getting his 2008 charger sys installed. he has the subs 2 spl15 but they will need space so the box will be built into the trunk. what do ya'll think of this price? the total quote was 2200: the amp is a memphis mojo 2500 $1300 the box is $300 yellow top batt $200 it seems like im missing something but the rest is wiring, relay, amp rack, labor, and other miscellaneous. the only thing else included is the shop gives a 3 year warranty on everything they do, that includes the amp. we usually do this stuff ourself but this is out of our span and we he wants it to look pro' something we dont worry about when we do it.

First off I'd like to say hello, first time posting outside Fi / Argent Audio forums... So don't mind my retarded question, for I am new... Question would have to be, is there a aftermarket mount or something I can install to keep the rear view mirror on my windshield solid and firm, and if not, at least to stop it from doing the goonie's truffle shuffle. If I cant keep it solid, maybe something to absorb most of the movement. Running SAZ1000D & 15' Fi BT, has as good knock to it... Thanks, Dustin

I have a 98 dodge neon that I was looking to upgrade the sound system on. It is all stock parts except the receiver which was upgraded to a Sony X-plod CDX - GT11W 50W x 4 by the previous owner. I am not all to certain on the size of the speaker, but I think that the doors are 6 1/2 shallow, the rear speakers are 6" x 9", and the middle speaker is a 3 1/2. I don't really know a whole lot about the sound systems of a car, but from what I have read adding an amplifier, upgrading the existing speakers, and utilizing bass blockers would be the main focus. Essentially I am looking for the best possible upgrade in terms of bang for buck. So my question is what parts should I in…

After what seems like forever, I finally got my box finished today, and got my BTL in my truck and hooked up. I've never heard bass like this before! This thing f***ing POUNDS! I've still not put in my upgraded alternator yet, but the T-1500 seems to be doing fine so far.

Well I was just told that I am not allowed to install my own equipment when I get it. The reason is because of my warrenty. But I will be taking all my stuff to a car audio install place. I will try and ask them if I can watch but when I get home I'm going to be tuning it myself and double checking the wiring just in case.

how much does the sds butyl rope cost? cause ive got several 100' rolls of butyl tape and a couple rolls of what looks just like the sds butyl rope that i got from my cuzzin the installs windshield since its the same thing wouldnt window sealant be cheaper?

I cant seem to find any website that has a High Output alternator that will fit a 97 Camry thats over 120 amps... is a 120 amp Alternator +Upgrading Big 3 to 0AWG +Main Battery = Kinetik HC2000 +Second Battery in trunk Kinetik HC 1400 will all that be enough power for a Fi Fully Loaded BTL 15"...just ordered the Dual 2 Ohm and im buying the Hifonics BRZ2100D Amplifier im gunna have it in a 3.85 cubic ft box

For starters I my name is Matt, I use to have an account on here but I am guessing from the cause of inactivity my account was deleted. I haven't been on here in quite sometime. Probably almost, I don't know to to be honest. I wanted to seek help from all of you from SSA Forums, because I bought 2 12" D2 SSA XCONS, and 2 sundown audio 1500d's almost a year ago. I wanted to bebuild my box for the subs, and I wanted to ask from you guys a little help, lessons, and knowledge from you guys. I am not a pro at car audio nor audio in general. In all honesty, I am an idiot, but I like learning about anything and everything. I have had systems in the past, but what made me buy the…

So when is the last time one of you saw one of these? Any thoughts, questions, Impressions, rumors, folk-lore?

this may be a stupid question, but i am unsure of how to order wire from knukonceptz. do you just put the amount of feet you need in the Quanity box and they will send you that length of a strand? in advance thanks for your help

Ok here is a serious question and I would love everyone who veiws opinion. There are three sets of 6.5'' components, you can only choose 1. Alpine SPX-17PRO (Type X) Kicker 04SS65.2 Kicker 10QS65.2 Here is my issue, yeah i actually ordered all three, its a long story but end result is i own all 3 sets. just need to know wich i should use. I actually have a set of the older Type -X in the truck now, and they are amazing. But I have heard alot of good about all three. Here is what I am looking for. I want Loud Crisp mids and highs...i mean LOUD, but with out distortion. Just let me know!

My beef with second skin - DIYMA.com Considering I'd guess it'll be deleted or reworked, I'll quote the thread here. Particularly funny to me since Ant argued with me over the benefits of including the CCF on the MLV a few times. I guess he finally realized.

I figured I only have one chance to do it right, so I thought it would be best to ask. I had planned on using my circle jig with my dremel but because of the design, I can't get the jig to sit flush with the surface to be cut. What's the best method to cut a hole for 6.5" and 1" tweeter?

ok, so i have my subs and i have figured out the amp to power them. now i need to figure out if the box that i have will be sufficient or if i am better off with a different design. the following is as much useful information as i can think of, but if you need anymore just ask. also haven't been able to find detailed specs on the speakers, so i don't know fo, qes, xmax or anything like that, that's why i need your help. haven't found anyone that has that info either, so hopefully you all can still throw me some input. thanks. car: 99 altima subs: pair of 12" american bass vfl1266 amp: rockford t1500 current box: sealed 34x14x14 3/4mdf music: mostly juggalo beats and nu-me…

Looking on advice as to what to look at first for this issue.. Basically out of nowhere I have no sub output or midbass output. ED components on a nine.4 and ED sub on a nine.2.... Not sure why I'd lose midbass and sub output and yet the tweeters are fine... Any suggestions on where to start looking?

What are some good rap songs to slow down for lower/better bass?

im about to be building a pretty big box that will be housing some serious drivers. i wanted to know which one would be the best option, nails or screws? ive always finished nailed all my boxes together but i also put liquid nail on everyone of them. the walls of this sub box will be 1.5" thick. so would it be best to screw them together? i just hate how long it takes to screw it all, thats why i prefer nails

I just purchased 2 Fi Q's 12" dual 2 OHM and was wondering what gauge speaker wire to run with these. I am looking into getting the Rockford Fosgate T2500-1bd. Just to help if there is any confusion here are some specs. T2500-1bd: 1000 Watts RMS x 1 @ 4-Ohms 1800 Watts RMS x 1 @ 2-Ohms 2500 Watts RMS x 1 @ 1-Ohm Accepts Speaker Wire Gauge from 8 AWG to 16 AWG Fi Q 12 cooling - yes p champer - yes it comes with the cooling option high QTS - yes i will be using a sealed box extra spider - yes I heat ring - no Any other knowledgeable advice is accepted. Thank you

Does anyone know where i can buy Tang Band speakers? Also, has anyone on here bought from ikesounds.com? are they legit or scammers? thanks!

Please help, I am about to build a box for XCON 12 D2 ported, and know nothing about the port dimensions. As well as a ICON 10 D1 ported....

hello. i have a new alpine type R that does 600rms. i was going to get the SAZ-1000D when i get money ( so many good reviews) its perfect for 1 (at 2 ohms x 600rms) my question is will it be enough for 2 alpine type R's at 1 ohm ? 1000rms? ( buying another one later)

I need someone to do a kerf port for me. Or help me do it. Thanks, Mikey