General Audio

I'm at a crossroads. I just effed up the box I'd been working on for my older XXX 12 so before I start on a new box I figured I'd get some opinions. I'm redoing the system for the 2nd time. The front stage is purchased: the CDT ES-02s are here and the ES-06+s are on their way. My options for power on them are a 225 HCCA bridged on each midbass and a 225 in stereo to the mid/tweets or the Son of Frank running the whole setup. Probably go with the latter for simplicity and because the amp is awesome. The dilema is with the sub stage. Right now I have the '03 XXX 12 in D2 config, a trio of 10W6s and a quartet of Assassin 8s at my disposal. For power I have a PG MS-2…

a buddy of mine is doing a wall in a dakota with four of either 12s and each sub will be seing around 2 cubes without port and tuned to 30 hz with 350 watts rms to eahc sub. he listens to rap most of the time. also he's looking to be hitting some higher scores. jw which would perform better in this application. thanks

Alright, so since i have nothing but time on my hands i was looking around at the IASCA rule book, and im considering i might be competing after my nice long Canadian winter. Id be in the Rookie 2 section. (Single Fi BTL 18 N2). Now, i saw a rule that all subwoofer enclosures / ports need to be in the cargo area. My original plan was to have my two 6" Aero ports going through the 6x9 slots in my rear deck. So heres my solution. Since aero ports are lovely and are able to be removed, i was thinking of making much shorter, like 5" in length aero ports for competitions. Giving me like a 45 hz tune or something. Geez thinking about competitions when i havent even insta…

This is just something i have been wondering since i found out how a ported box works. I know that IB separates the front wave from the back. And I know that a port acts somewhat like another speaker above and at tuning. But what if you were to build a ported box, and seal off the port from the front wave entirely. like, the woofers face forward, and the port faces the trunk but you seal off the baffle from the trunk entirely. I googled it, but came up with nothing.

would a 12" icon and a 12" bl be comparable woofers performance wise? which would do you guys think hits harder and picks up lows best? (this isnt for me, this is for a friend, he his trying to decide between the two and wanted me to ask)

I've been looking around for a 12" and my fingers were looking deeply at the Fi Q, until I tried to understand what all of their options do. The information is so lacking and even misleading that I couldn't make myself to buy a from a company that produces "quality" equipment but can't even describe their options correctly. So now I'm looking at the 12" ICON. Not only have I read it's great sealed it produces great SQ I was interested with going ported with the Q but now that I think of it, I'm not willing to give up my entire trunk. Could anyone with experience with the 12" ICON, with a sedan (I drive a 2003 Accord), give me some info regarding how the SQ would be in th…

I have an opportunity to buy either. full bodies or mini. I am planning to go full. but my question is: 1. Is it worth the extra money to get the pro instead of the cd1e? 2. Will i notice a significant difference? I plan to use a passive crossover that i will make (from schematics the ID tech gave) but will be EQing using my eclipse cd7000(7band peq). iirc i can only use passive on the cd1e and not the pro. correct? I dont think my deck has a fancy enough dsp to handle the pro?...or am i wrong? thanks. oh btw id like for them to play down to 1kish. my mids are hertz hsk 165s if it matters.

I've been wanting to try id horn for the longest. Purchase a set months ago they were DOA because of packaging and shipper that was F.... Up. So I decide to contact eric Stevens and order a set and purchase the selenium d2500ti drivers. I read on line that I'll need an adapter ( adf25 1in) I think I was good to go yea right not at all aggravated! Can any one tell how to mount the three hole driver to the id mini horns thanks in advance.

Well, I picked one of the $100 ones up for a cheap alternative for some subbass. First impressions: The build quality is extraodrinary. Everything is aligned perfectly. There is not a hint of excessive glue used which is commonplace on a lot of subs today available from certain buildhouses. The finish on the driver is superb. The basket seems to be a little weak for the motor structure, but hey, it was a lot of "leftover parts" assembled very well into a quite impressive looking driver. IT came with a four-piece, self-adhesive foam surround for rear sealing, with a very attractive front rubber piece that just seems to flow into, or out from the surround. I wish ot…

i need some ideas for mouthing my amp.. i have a t30000bd and i kind wanna make it so everything is clean and you cant see my amp.. any ideas maybe

I'm thinking about upgrading the "factory stereo" in the '05 E-150 next month as a gift...because what's in there now is laughable. The standard Ford AM/FM radio, not even a tape deck. This is the main delivery truck, so everything needs to be mounted under the seats/hidden. Here's what I've come up with so far... Source: Alpine CDE-9842, $130 new from Crotchfield. Maybe an extra dash kit if they don't provide one, it's a standard 1.5DIN opening. Speakers: Crystal CXE570 5x7 coaxials (http://mmxpress.com/crystal/crystal_speakers.htm) Amplifier: Damn PE for selling out of the Aura amps I'd need a decent two-channel, 50Wx2 into 4 ohms should be plenty. Something along the …

So I want to put 2 kicker 12" L7's in 1998 ford ranger reg cab. Now this is my first time and I've seen it done but don't know how they did it. Last resort would be cutting through the back. Any other ideas from any of you?

Ok, next year I'll be in the dorms again, but w/ my cousin as a roommate who is also a audio nut. I came up with an idea of making something along the lines of a "Stage" to put the TV and other crap on, ending up probably around 10-15 cubes of airspace? And having a couple 15's tuned to around 18hz or something along those lines for a sub setup for movies. My mains would be two towers with atleast 2 Extremis, or AA mids per tower with a Usher (can't remember numer, 9950???) tweet. The subs will be powered with a Behring EP2500amp, the mains with one ART SLA-1 amp (possibly 2) or a ART SLA-2. Any ideas if this has ever been done before?? If it has, pics? Why? Becaus…

As the title read's need some Ideas on fixing things that are getting damaged but fixing them in way the the problem wont return. Part I am interested in finding a permanent repair for.

I was riding a little while ago and All of sudden no more bass..and I go back home and check everything Subs are fine(I know cuz I took them out the box and nothings wrong with them) and Amp is on...I'm confused Anyone know what happening???

The story is, i start my car let it idle and warm up. When i start listening music, then car idle drops ? is my system taking that much power so it drops my car idle ? Or how can i fix that problem?

Hi, I was wondering, as the alternator put out there max output on around 1500rpm or something like that, on my car, that has an electronic idle control system, Is there some part or something to raise and keep an certain idle speed by the press of a button or something similar? Thank you.

If there was one thing the internet could offer you car audio enthusiasts that it doesn't already , or think something could be greatly improved, what would that be? I'm talking store selections, information guides, specs for cars, anything. Kevin

I kno this is a real subjective thing but Im just trying to get ideas.. When I sell my truck Ill be getting a 99 maxima and ill have about 1000 left over and that all goes to the system. Im down to 3 sub choices: -2 Rl-p 15s sealed w/700/800 watts to each -1 Rl-p 15 ported w/700/800 watts -1 Mag 15 ported w/around 1200 watts (assuming I can get one when Im ready to put my system together) Everything else is up to you guys; deck, comps, 6x9s, sub amp, ect So what would you do in my shoes? Thanks Tom

I need to know what the outer diameter including jacket is of WS' 4/0 cable. I need to run it through conduit and need to know what size to buy. Certain sizes start escalating prices like crazy

Its been a while since i have kept up with the audio industry and even when i did i was still a rookie. I was lucky enough to have a guy by the name of Alton from this same forum make me box measurements for my car but sadly my car was stolen right before i got to install everything in late 2012. I finally have a car with a big enough trunk to do it all over again hah. So know for my question. I have Two Sundown SA-12 D4's that will be running on a Sundown Saz-1500d v.3 WIth 1/0 gauge xs wire. My question is where and what are your opinions on trusted inline fuse holders that will fit my wire gauge and also how many should i get? Im guessing two. I have seen some pretty p…

n the next couple weeks i plan on starting to order everything for my system so i can have it done by summer. i am stuck between the HDC312 and BTL12.... i have heard the btl in person and am in love with it, and also have heard nothing but good things from people that own them. to me they just seem like an overall better choice, but that may just be because of all the good i have heard/seen about them. the HDC312 people are telling me is comparable to the BTL12, can take just as much power as the BTL, and can get just as loud. i dont know how true that is, but if it is on the same level as the BTL i would consider buying it, especially for the price. also from what a lot…

can some one please help me???? trying to find out how do u measure imp. rise? as in how do u go about getting the numbers, and how to check an amp for watts and eff%. any one with any input?

I am having a fucktard moment, and have a basic ass question. I have, on each channel, two 6 ohm speakers in series for 12 ohms, and then paralleled to a 2 ohm coil. What is the final impedance? I googled several calcs, and none had options for multiple impedances, save for one, but that one gave some answers that looked completely wrong, as in, the speakers with lower impedances receiving less power.... I'm just double checking that this temporary setup isn't wired to a reckless load, my amp doesn't like going below 4, and the last calc I tried gave me 1.7ohm final. It doesn't heat up, and doesn't cut out....But I'm not trying to learn the hard way.

So I have been doing the car stereo thing for about 6 years, even having won several competitions but have never even considered impedance rise when building cabinets and I just wanted to get some info on this phenomena. I understand that it boils down to the size/shape/style of the box and any obstructions such as wires, braces, etc. 1. how can I test my setup to find my impedance rise? 2. can impedance rise be combated by wiring below rated amplifier impedance? 3. are there any build orientations that are more resistant to this? (sub/port firing back; sub firing up/port back; etc.) I am installing in a 2004 pontiac grand prix and a 2008 ford escape, any info will be gre…