General Audio

Recently purchased an SSA Evil 15 and was gonna throw it on a cab-45, will the evil take that much power daily? And what kind of electrical upgrades would I need to meet the system requirements, will be going in a 2005 Tahoe. Not new to car audio but never had to go past an AGM battery in the back.

need some help on some 6x9's. i have alpine sps-600 in the front doors so i was going to match them with the alpine sps-609 but then i saw the spr-69c is not much more money. should i get sps-609 or the spr-69c with no amp?

I need to find a super detailed diagram of every part of the average woofer. I can't figure out how to use search on SSA, maybe i'm slow, but time is of the essence. Does anyone have a link, or a link to a thread with one?

Im thinking about doing a system in our 03 Explorer and wated some input on what issues you have ran into with these. I bought my wife a 2012 Cruze so now the explorer is sitting and Im biting at the bit to do something with it lol. It is up for sale right now but if it doesnt sell soon Im going to start doing something with it. Anyways share all input with these vehicles. Oh and Im still working on the mustang as well

Okay 2 DEI Viper Dual 4 ohm 12" subs ported box, tuned to 28 htz. And neither on the back seat nor in the trunk with the seat folded down, I still can't get over a 141. I got a 140.3 the 1st time with shittier subs, and a sealed box..............and running the amp only @ 2 ohms not 1 like today...........But that Was in a Mountaineer............Anyways after I got 2 CRX style boxes from Kurt I was able to do a 144.4 from the back seat. Thew boxes wouldn't fit in the trunk which rots. I am going to Competiton this Sunday in Rochester and then again Sept. 11th in Limestone, NY. Hopefully I can place in Advanced NW this weekend and place in the 1-306 class later on........…

Does anyone have any experience ordering from www.cartronixplus.com ? I know they basically have the lowest prices available, not too big a variety and most of it is sold out but really cheap! Anyone know if there legit? Warranty? any of that stuff?

Car; lancer GLX (sedan)i.e. with a boot Speakers: 2x loaded Fi BL's 12's box slot port common chamber The goal is loud daily and I was told 32hz will work well. According to my dodgy calculater the below specs will give 31.44 Hz before a single 45 corner and a 1" front baffle. obviously the one side will have to be lengthened by .25'' ...i think box with 36" box height 14" depth 22.5" wood thickness .75" for most part of it(exept for front baffle -->other ideas welcome) sq port height 12.5" sq port with 4.5" sq port L1 17.25" sq port L2 5" cheers

I'm looking for the best way to make the audio inside quieter on the outside. if that makes sense... I want to isolate the sound so with the windows up you cant hear the music playing inside as easily. Right now im trying to focus on the midrange as that seems to be the "worst". I currently have the midrange in the stock location with damp covering 95% of both door panels. Right now im building door pods but the midrange is still going to be IB so that should help somewhat but not as well as a sealed pod. Do you think adding second skin overkill to the outer door panel would help at all? any other ideas?

Hi, I am new to this sight my name is tony.I have a couple of questions that i need help with.My car is a dodge charger (05),i want a windshield flexing system my favorite sub is the FIBTL im going to be running two 12 inch subs any amp suggestons?

Well i'm new here and i'm looking on oppions for a new system this is wut i am comming off of 2 db drive platinum 15's dual 4's seal box running off an auttek 1500.1 mx amp.. sold that becuse they were both nothing but problems no for the doors i had a shop but in the only comps that they had which were the mtx 6600 series 6.5 in front n rear which the rear r suposed to be 5.25's well long story short all the tweeter burnt up but one and one 3 door speakers work. they are running off an autotek 480sx amp ok this is wut i have been looking at so far with subs 1 18 inch Eclipse SW9182Pro tc built donno wut amp i would need for that 2 mag 15's off and ia 20.1 2 arc aduio 1…

thought you guys would liek to look at my new gear i got in today. it is 1 sundown 3000d and 2 shocker 3 10's. there going to be in 5.5 cubes @ 35hz here next weekend. but for right now their in 1.8 @ 35hz and they still sound great. well here are the pics

Hey guys, im helping out a friend( older) put a nice HT in his new house. Only 1 problem....the wall that the t.v is on is short and tower speakers would sick out on the sides of the entertainment center. I'd like to keep it fairly cheap, we have a budget thats in the mid range. I will have specfics on friday since me and my bro are gonna check it out. I have acess to most of the mid end HT speakers around my area so i can eaisly check them out and demo them You guys have any reccomendations ?

Can somebody explain what it is and what does it do?

Basically, I'm trying to think of the most cost-effective way to build a shelf that's rock-solid steady for my turntable. I've been floating a lot of ideas around in my head, from "floating" a piece of MDF in a little sandbox-type thing, to several layers of MDF on soft rubber pads, to wacky ones like a suspended magnetic table (most likely not even possible). So...I'm trying to brainstorm, need ideas for a table that's immune to vibration and help to deaden the internal vibration from the unit itself.

I have my amp mounted to the back of my box. It's mounted so that the bottom of my amp is screwed to the back of the box. Is this bad? I was told by a guy yesterday that it can cause internal issues with the amp. Any input?

edit by M5: Topic split to allow the OP to have his thread back. Split from here: what Hybrids have you used? just curious as well, what cost less that in your opinion outperforms? I am looking to try some new mid-bass drivers for the doors, so I never mind trying new equipment. Just as far as midranges I have never found anything to touch my L4's

Ok, so I have a dual 1 Fi BL 15'' in a ported box tuned @ 34 hz. Running it off of a kicker zx1500.1 w/ the gain set a little over half. And a cheap sony deck. I have been running it for about 3 or 4 weeks now and its sounded great! but last night when i turned it on, i was bumpin through town, and it was hitting good, and then i turned it down to say something to my friend, and when i turned it back up, it hit about once and then just stopped...no smoke, no burning nothing. just stopped. i figured one of my connections came out, but i checked all of em and they're good. My amp is still good and all my fuses are good. but it still won't hit! i even took it out of the box …

Which should work better as a window(9'' x 12'') for a box, 1/2" polycarbonate(lexan) or 3/4" Acrylic(plexiglass) ?

I have recently upgraded my sound system to a Sundown u15 D4 1500w rms, and a GK audio 3500.1D1 (3000w rms). No component speaker upgrades...YET. My stock 132 amp alternator is well on its way to being smoked. So, I am ordering a Mechman 320 amp alternator, and would like to know what size battery (that will fit in the stock position) I will need. I don't care so much about amp hours, because bumping the system isn't really a common thing without the engine running. My goal is to NOT run any type of capacitor, and I really don't want to have to add a battery in the back. I am now running an OEM duralast battery (not sure of specs) and with my weak stock altern…

i'm pretty sure this a must... actually im definetly sure this is a must... is there anything people usually do to break it in as safely and as quickly as possible?

I have an Xpress Capacitor(new) I'm trying to install and it's not quite working. I charged it correctly but when I measure it with a voltmeter, it only measures 3.5V I tried to install it anyways, hoping that it will charge the rest by itself. So I hooked it up right next to the amp. The digital readout doesn't display. I followed the instructions and it doesn't work. I asked a friend and he said I should try hooking up a remote wire to the cap. Any ideas?

i know most people run a ground wire from the battery up front and then ground the second battery in the rear. but i dont have the room to run 2 0 guage wires. so my question is can i just make a good ground in the back and b done with it??? because i thought a ground was a ground. thanks for the help

I have a 13w7 in a prowedge box. I am reading about the SAZ-1500D. I learned that either I can wire to run the sub at a 3ohm or .75ohm load. Is the SAZ-1500D able to handle that power, also what is the amp stable at? Any help/opinions would be appreciated. thanks!

I need to drill some holes in my doors to run some fat ass wire through. I did a visual earlier but I can't tell if I can I remove the fenders without removing the front. Can I?

I know the Term-LAB is by all means the best to use but is also really expensive. Are there any other meters out there that are good and cheaper?