General Audio

hello all, my name is Marco, this is my first posting. I have recently gotten my hands on a DD 9515g d2. I've never had a sub this massive and i've never used aero ports. Im a DIYer to the max, which is why i created this thread. My purposes with this sub is for DAILY ""SQL"". Im working with either a SAE-1000 or my old MTX 1501d and hope it will run at 1ohm after my BIG 3 upgrade, either one will suffice. So here's my project. Im building a middle console box for my full size Chevy ext. cab. I've already done one in my old standard cab fullsize with a 2512 d4 with the 1501d on it and it the output was incredible. Im gonna try to get 4 cubes with ports i…

My setup for the next season will include: 2 Kicker zx 2500.1 amplifiers wired @ 2 ohm each 2 AudioQue HDC3 12s, d1 vcs Northstar NSB 90 in stock location. 200 amp Alternator, rebuilt intown. I have a box design that I got directly from Steven Sears, whom is the Team Captain of Team High X-cursion. He told me he had someone on his team with 3 10s hitting in the 150s the TL in a Grand Am, and yes I have a Grand Am. He is very knowledgable on trunk vehicles. I plan to only use both kicker amplifiers during shows, and one for daily on a 4 ohm load. I will be selling my 2 audioque sd8s, and when my American Bass 120.1 gets back from being serviced it will be for sale as well…

Wondering is anyone knows the recommended enclosure for 2 Digital Designs 3500 10's

As title. Looking for something ready to go. I will pay for the right

I gave a friend of mine a demo of the 15's at a local show today. I had to give her earmuffs before she would consider the demo. lol

like I said to SS, I might be there, but I was wondering if there is a show vehicle for powerbass

Here is the tech/how-to link that on here that I will refer to later: Big 3 How-to I did the big 3 today in my car, (see sig for equipment/etc.), and I noticed something odd, (to me). A week or two before I actually did the upgrade, I had checked my voltage with a DMM for shiggles up front and on the amp. 12.5. Today after the upgrade, the voltage was 14.4ish, (moved around a little; no more than a tenth of a volt), front and back on amp. Both readings were taken with the car idling. This is good right? This was supposed to happen? Another question; on the link it says to fuse the alternator to battery positive wire with a fuse the same size as the factory fuse. I …

I keep hearing about knockoff products on Ebay. How does one go about finding whether or not it is the real deal? Even a store selling fakes can have good feedback because some just want the cheapest. I'm looking for amps and sub-woofers.

I've been using a sub & box combo that I picked up at a local car audio store a few years ago to get me by and have recently begun thinking about upgrading. So I've been reading up and just trying to educate myself on the matter and tonight I went out to try and calculate the box volume and tune of the ports. Just wondered if I figured this out right. I used a calculator here (the vent length calculator at the bottom). I had the vent length so I swapped frequencies in and out until I got one to match. Here's what I know. The box contains 2 10s. It's 30.5" wide, 13" tall, 9.5" deep at the top and 12" deep at the bottom (so I used an average depth of 10.75"). Whe…

alright i posted before and was told to hell with jl......so i did. Im greatly considering orion......now, i want speakers that are going to have great sound quality, but i NEED them to pound...competition is a possibility for the future. I just want a very nice system for starters and not have to do much adding on for the future.... Im talkin like a 3500 - 4g budget... again this is the setup..so far w/out the comps and subs Pioneer AVH-P4000DVD big 3 powermaster alty 400amp yellow top sax100.4 or 100.2 for the comps saz3000d i want something thats going to utilize that power comin from the saz3d

Well I know I'm no competitor or anything. Still a learner. I'm still here. Been checking SSA and CA.com occasionally. Been busy with school and working this summer. I'm sorta behind on all the audio gear. I still have my lil 94 GMC Sonoma. Its going to be my project. I just bought an 03 Jeep Liberty Sport. It'll be my daily until my truck is done. The GMC is gunna be my summer truck, but I'm going to do it up like I want to. I don't have my full license yet, but its coming. September 20th is when I'm eligible to get it. And I still got my Mach 5 SPL-12s. There still in the same place they've been since I bought them. Have had them for almost a year. Still no power has we…

I Just put the pio 880 in my 98 expe, and that deck is awesome. I am in love. It even makes the factory set up tolerable.... almost. Well I know what I need to do next and thats basic electrical and deadening, while I wait to see if I want to do an alarm etc. I'm going to go active in the front and am still undecided about placement of speakers and then in turn about what size drivers..and how I want to go about it, so I'm going to switch gears and work on the bass and deadening and electrical for a while. I am completely lost on the big 3 and it will take me a long time to figure those out I think. I have read it's practical to just double up with the factory instead…

I had this posted in the Fi forums, but I stopped getting replies so I figured I'd post out here. I bought an Fi Q12 and a Cadence TXA1000D around the new year. I got it all installed about 1.5 weeks into January. Everything was playing great for a while, sounded awesome. Well last week I was out driving around and my sub started to cut out. It would play some notes and then it would stop. A few seconds later it would start back up, play a few, and then stop. The next day I started playing it again and it sounded fine for about five minutes and it started to do the same stuff. Now, it wont hit anything. Every once in a while it will hit, out of no where, just ran…

Hey all It seems the general consensus is to use 14"-16" or port area per cube for slot ports, and that flared round ports (aka aeroports) are recommended @ 8"-12" per cube... Now I was thinking about fabricating a port out of Sonotube or the like, and possibly creating some flared ends using fiberglass... What would be a good port area to shoot for? I was figuring if I used a 10" tube that would give me ~78in² Av which for a 6.5ft³ enclosure after displacements nails it right at 12" per cube. For an 18" driver. Thanks

I was trying to look back on a post I started awhile back that ALTON provided some info on for me an can't find it.SSF/LPF settings on bc2000d I think it was.ALTON explained setting SSF.

i ordered two zcon 18s and a saz 5000 yesterday im gonna get carboard today and see how much air space I have under the window line and hopefully not have to go much higher and could anyone help with a box design?

Hey guys. I have a fair amount of experience with installs in my car, but it was only me driving it. I am getting ready to put a system in my Explorer, but space is more of an issue than it has been before. Questions I have: 1. Without sacrificing any storage space, where is a good place for the amp(s) and a subwoofer? What is the best way to approach this? 2. How do I find out what size speakers I can put in the doors? The depth of the speakers as well.

ok yea in the other post i said ordered 2 12" mags and a sundown 1500D thinkin of money for install and the issue of batt/alt/wires came to mind will i have to upgrade battery or alt. with the install??? oh and this shop guy said with a stock head unit i need sum continuous thing that when i turn up the volume the bass doesnt turn down...???.... saying i need some $200 thing to stop that and make it sound like i have an aftermarket HU...compared it to a JL cleansweep just that is to expensive neways thanks!

I'm designing a sub box for a friend of mine here, and I need a bit of help. This is basically how it's going to look: ____ |_/\_| Subs facing in Ports facing trunk. 2 Ports = 2Inches Wide top to bottom Dimensions are Total 34"Wide 20"deep 14"High 3/4 MDF Subs: 2 12" Kicker COMPVX What do I need to get it tuned to 34hz, port wise? If you guys would suggest a different tuning, what hZ value, and what size ports?

I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla Type S and I was wondering if any of you have the same car and have a system in it or have seen a system in a Corolla Type S? I need some ideas on setups. Right now I have a Batcap 800 in the trunk along with Dynamat in the trunk and under and on top of the rear deck, a JBL GTO 1200.1 II amp powering 2 Orion HP 12s sealed in 1.2 cubes each. So far I'm upgrading my amp to a Sundown Audio SAZ-1500D and upgrade my Batcap to a solenoid and a Stinger SP1000 battery. I already have a 70 amp alternator so I don't feel the need to upgrade my electrical system. As for subs I don't know yet. So far I may want a pair of SS RL-p 12s sealed in 1.35 c…

When using the online port length calculator, http://www.carstereo.com/help2/Articles.cfm?id=31 , when it says to input the internal cf of my box do i use the gross - bracing - driver displacement or do I use gross - bracing - driver displacement - estimated port displacement? IE i have 5.2 cf gross internel volume. I will have about 4.6-4.7 after bracing and woofer displacement. Should I use 4.6 as my internal cf or should I use 4.0 cf as I am estimating the port will take up .6-.7 cf? btw the port size is 19x3. Thanks very much

Ok guys I recently upgraded cars and I am already desperate for some bass I am restricted by space since its a convertible but I found a solution that keeps me and the gf happy Space was a huge issue so I have decided on the most bass i could get out of flat sub....nothing like my btls I will be running a single JL 13TW5 but the problem is they have a single 3ohm coil......which is really frustrating that means i cant bridge a two channel and a monoblock will not be making optimum power so i want to feed this thing 500 to 600 watts but am having trouble finding an amp that will do it, where i dont feel that I know the jl 500/1 v2 will do it but 400 dollars for a 500 doll…

Hey guys im new to the forum and just have a few questions i need help getting answered. I have 2 fi ssd 10s 2ohm dvc and i have about 220 dollars to spend on an amp. Im pretty much looking for a used amp. What amps could i find that will put out around 1200 to 1600 watts used for around 200 to 220? But if im mostly looking for a 1600 watt amp for around that price Also what are the best places to buy a cheap wiring kit that will handle that power? And one last question, sorry for all the questions im asking. I have a hifonics aphrodite that i got from a neighbor a long time ago and its a 6 channel 300 watt amp with crossover. Im just wondering if i should use thi…

just as the title states, i've done some searching, and the most i got were 3 pictures on caraudio.com so i'm just trying to find anyone who has pics of the new toys for this year

OK, I know I'm impatient, and I'm not saying SSA is taking too long, I'd rather wait for something that is going to be this awesome versus them rushing and giving me something that might fall apart. But, I was just curious the average time people waited to get their sub. 21+ days could mean 2 months for all I know. I'm trying to keep myself busy right now getting wires pulled and the box built, and hopefully time will pass faster. I'm just hoping the 14 days i've waited so far means I'm half way done:)