General Audio

I need to pick up a set of end caps to a Punch200 and a Punch 40. Just like these. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

So looking into amps to power my speakers and tweeters but Im wondering if the high/low pass filters vs the frequency response of the amp actually affects the speakers and tweeters. Since the High pass is only 50-200Hz does this affect anything. Example Im looking into the 2010 Kicker zx350.4 Variable high-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 12 dB/octave) Variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 12 dB/octave) Frequency response: 20-20000 Hz Speakers: MB Quart DKG 168 (DKG168 Tweeter: MB Quart PTK 40 (PTK40

My setup for the next season will include: 2 Kicker zx 2500.1 amplifiers wired @ 2 ohm each 2 AudioQue HDC3 12s, d1 vcs Northstar NSB 90 in stock location. 200 amp Alternator, rebuilt intown. I have a box design that I got directly from Steven Sears, whom is the Team Captain of Team High X-cursion. He told me he had someone on his team with 3 10s hitting in the 150s the TL in a Grand Am, and yes I have a Grand Am. He is very knowledgable on trunk vehicles. I plan to only use both kicker amplifiers during shows, and one for daily on a 4 ohm load. I will be selling my 2 audioque sd8s, and when my American Bass 120.1 gets back from being serviced it will be for sale as well…

Anyone have their website? Any idea if they are still in business? Looking to see what they have for subs now. Our shop tried a few of them last year and they were decent.

Chyea! so i wanna look into a nice audio set up for my car but im not 100% sure on what exactly to look for or how it all works really. So im looking to see if anyone can explain or direct me to a website or something that can explain how car audio works. preferably starting from the basics. Something for example would be this: T2-250.1: Continuous Power @ 14.4 V: 175W x 1 @ 4 ohms 250W x 1 @ 2 ohms what does it mean when it says 175w x 1 @ 4 ohms? (Are ohms not resistance and why is there more on something with less watts?) thanks for any help.

I am looking into purchasing a 15" DC level 4 XL or AA Mayhem. If I choose the DC, I have two wiring options. I have a 2400 watt amp at 1 ohm and 1700 at 2 ohms. How much difference does wiring a sub at 2 ohms make vs wiring it at 1 ohm? Would 1700 watts at 2 ohms be enough to get the DC going or should I just stick to 1 ohm?

So I just bought a matching RE XXX 04-05 motor and I want to either do (2) 12"s or (2) 10"s. I have space in the trunk to provide both enclosures, but a 12" build would suck up every bit of trunk space and I'm afraid of having to built the box in the trunk. I really don't want to do this..My car has 165k on it, and I don't want to have to get a new rear suspension, or struggle with fitting the box through my trunk opening. I suppose I could turn the box and slip it in through the back seat, but sealing off and port forward, subs forwards, and trunk wall are all new to me. I was thinking of doing (2) 10" in about 5 cubes and port back subs back. Slamm…

first off i REALLY hate to be "that guy" that posts these, "help me build my sytem" threads. however i guess i just have to break down and do it. so. basically heres my deal. current setup is this 4 diamond audio d1 tens, downfire, sealed with a cube per sub diamond d3 1100.1 diamond d1 250.2 alpine type r 6.5 component set alpine ida-x001 head unit i hit 135.6 db on a termlab playing the wocka flocka song "no hands". i couldnt play their test tone cd cause the alpine is a media reciver and i had no way to the the cd onto my hard drive to playback. nor did i know what a sealed box should even sound best at. but thats irrelavent. im planning on this setup next, money i…

so much for my eclipse ti's.. any chance ill get a fair reimbursment?

I just started writing articles for a guy who is trying to make a decent car audio sales website....so check em' out if anyone wants to. I will probably be taking topic articles from forum questions. www.mycarjams.com Click on the Audio Answers link.

Ok i ve been out of car audio , and i know how much stuff changes. I want to buy some subs to run at 2 ohm's to the kicker zx750.1d . I really want to run all kicker . I also would like to keep it under 200 bucks . I do have a cadence amp that will do 1 ohm 600 rms which match the subs i have now,(alpine type rs d4s). But i think that the kicker amp with a set of kicker subs would hit harder . I have posted alot about this, so i nail it down to get some kicker subs , or keep my cadence and run it at 1 ohm to my alpines . Thanks everybody how has answerd my pass post and this one . yall helped me nail it down .

I'm looking into getting an 8 ohm woofer and a tweeter for each of my stock locations. The amp i have is rated for 50x4 @4 ohms and has a bridged rating of 160x2 @4 ohms. Question is, would it be ok to bridge each side (1 woofer and 1 tweeter) @4 ohms, provided that i find a decent 8 ohm tweeter? Or am i just better off running each speaker to it's own channel? I'm not too familiar with this stuff, so excuse me if i am completely missing something.

I'm going to be running a Sundown Audio SAE-1000D and an SAX-100.4. My stock alternator is 135A, I've done the big three with 1/0 gauge, I've got a 1/0 gauge run to the trunk, and I've got a group 65 Duralast Gold battery under the hood... Do you think I'll need a second battery or any other electrical system changes?

Ok I have a rather unique problem that I a guy of 5 years plus in the car audio has come up against. Ok here is the skinny, I have a: JVC Kd_LX 10 head unit MTX AMP JVC 12 Disk Changer 8" MTX Subs Now the problem is that when I listen to the radio all speakers in the car work just fine and that includes the subs. Here comes the gremlin I pop on the CD changer and Only the Driver side of the car speakers work But the Subs work just fine just cannot get the Passenger side of the car to play any sound when the DC player is on. Get that ? I have checked the RCA's The Inputs the outputs all the rest that one would look at but all looks like its working correctly. Now what I am…

Hi im new to this ordering offline thing, so i had a question; i placed my order on the 6 of feb here it is the 3 of mar and still there is no word on my speakers and their progress .Is there like a hotline to call or something?

So I have a Poineer 3200bt, Pioneer TS-D1720C 6.75" speakers/tweets on a Pioneer GM-9500F amp, 12" RD Alpha V.2 powered by a Cadence ZRS-8 (1500rms). I have 1/0 gauge from my battery then it runs into a distributor with two 4 gauge leads coming out to the amps. 12 gauge from my 9500F to the speakers/tweets. I had the cadence amp and sub in my previous car ('98 accord coupe) and my lights would dim a little with the volume high. In my 2011 mazda 3 I sedan. I have my volume at 24 and the lights dim on every bass note, and I was on the freeway last night got my rpm's at 3k and at 26 my lights were still dimming. The bass on the HU is set to -4 and I can turn my speakers (wit…

Just looking around, i dont want to post a thread everytime i have a question. So i was just wondering if anyone had some good websites that i could look at that would give me some good quality information on all different types of enclosures. Iv been trying to look but im mostly finding build logs and i dont want to be reading up on crap. Thanks guys.

alright, my truck motor blew last month... i pulled the motor and sent it to be over hauled. new pistons rings head, sleaves its all getting done.. i have a new turbo here ready to go... i love my wrecker and im thinking i need to put a new system in it kinda like a re birth for her..... currently i have... old sony explode cd player 2 4 inch coaxels 1 jensen 200 watt 1 kicker comp vr 8 mounted inside of a old clarion bass tube encloser... i just upgreaded my 4 channels in my car with a sax series soooo that leaves an jl 300/4 open for either use .. or sale to fund my new system. i want a mp3 player, i was thinking some 4 inch comps ran off the jl, along w…

The amp im buying says it takes 4 guage... but its a 1600rms amp. I also have a amp on my door speakers that takes 8 guage but do i run a 1 guage and a distribution? Or do i go bigger and try to cram bigger than 4 in the sub amp?

I already have an Optima Red Top and alternator was replaced last year. Will the Big 3 upgrade help my problem? System is SAX100.4 and JBL 1200.1 0 gauge for power and ground.

I've been using a sub & box combo that I picked up at a local car audio store a few years ago to get me by and have recently begun thinking about upgrading. So I've been reading up and just trying to educate myself on the matter and tonight I went out to try and calculate the box volume and tune of the ports. Just wondered if I figured this out right. I used a calculator here (the vent length calculator at the bottom). I had the vent length so I swapped frequencies in and out until I got one to match. Here's what I know. The box contains 2 10s. It's 30.5" wide, 13" tall, 9.5" deep at the top and 12" deep at the bottom (so I used an average depth of 10.75"). Whe…

ok yea in the other post i said ordered 2 12" mags and a sundown 1500D thinkin of money for install and the issue of batt/alt/wires came to mind will i have to upgrade battery or alt. with the install??? oh and this shop guy said with a stock head unit i need sum continuous thing that when i turn up the volume the bass doesnt turn down...???.... saying i need some $200 thing to stop that and make it sound like i have an aftermarket HU...compared it to a JL cleansweep just that is to expensive neways thanks!

When using the online port length calculator, http://www.carstereo.com/help2/Articles.cfm?id=31 , when it says to input the internal cf of my box do i use the gross - bracing - driver displacement or do I use gross - bracing - driver displacement - estimated port displacement? IE i have 5.2 cf gross internel volume. I will have about 4.6-4.7 after bracing and woofer displacement. Should I use 4.6 as my internal cf or should I use 4.0 cf as I am estimating the port will take up .6-.7 cf? btw the port size is 19x3. Thanks very much

Alright, I plan on running 1100w-1200w RMS to an 18" woofer so I am torn between all 0 Ga wiring or using a 4 Ga amplifier wiring kit. The 4 Ga kit I'm looking at it rated for 1400w but I think 0 Ga would be better. Also, the amplifier I plan on using only has 4 Ga terminals for power and ground - would it be safe to trim down the 0 Ga and put them in 4 Ga terminals if I were to use 0 Ga? Amp is: JBL GTO 1201.1II - 1114w RMS at 2 ohms Woofer is: IA DR 18" D1 Thanks in advance! -John