General Audio
An Open Forum Dedicated To all audio questions that do not fall under the other specific categories.
3,954 topics in this forum
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Ok i ve been out of car audio , and i know how much stuff changes. I want to buy some subs to run at 2 ohm's to the kicker zx750.1d . I really want to run all kicker . I also would like to keep it under 200 bucks . I do have a cadence amp that will do 1 ohm 600 rms which match the subs i have now,(alpine type rs d4s). But i think that the kicker amp with a set of kicker subs would hit harder . I have posted alot about this, so i nail it down to get some kicker subs , or keep my cadence and run it at 1 ohm to my alpines . Thanks everybody how has answerd my pass post and this one . yall helped me nail it down .
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I'm looking into getting an 8 ohm woofer and a tweeter for each of my stock locations. The amp i have is rated for 50x4 @4 ohms and has a bridged rating of 160x2 @4 ohms. Question is, would it be ok to bridge each side (1 woofer and 1 tweeter) @4 ohms, provided that i find a decent 8 ohm tweeter? Or am i just better off running each speaker to it's own channel? I'm not too familiar with this stuff, so excuse me if i am completely missing something.
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I'm going to be running a Sundown Audio SAE-1000D and an SAX-100.4. My stock alternator is 135A, I've done the big three with 1/0 gauge, I've got a 1/0 gauge run to the trunk, and I've got a group 65 Duralast Gold battery under the hood... Do you think I'll need a second battery or any other electrical system changes?
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Ok I have a rather unique problem that I a guy of 5 years plus in the car audio has come up against. Ok here is the skinny, I have a: JVC Kd_LX 10 head unit MTX AMP JVC 12 Disk Changer 8" MTX Subs Now the problem is that when I listen to the radio all speakers in the car work just fine and that includes the subs. Here comes the gremlin I pop on the CD changer and Only the Driver side of the car speakers work But the Subs work just fine just cannot get the Passenger side of the car to play any sound when the DC player is on. Get that ? I have checked the RCA's The Inputs the outputs all the rest that one would look at but all looks like its working correctly. Now what I am…
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Hi im new to this ordering offline thing, so i had a question; i placed my order on the 6 of feb here it is the 3 of mar and still there is no word on my speakers and their progress .Is there like a hotline to call or something?
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So I have a Poineer 3200bt, Pioneer TS-D1720C 6.75" speakers/tweets on a Pioneer GM-9500F amp, 12" RD Alpha V.2 powered by a Cadence ZRS-8 (1500rms). I have 1/0 gauge from my battery then it runs into a distributor with two 4 gauge leads coming out to the amps. 12 gauge from my 9500F to the speakers/tweets. I had the cadence amp and sub in my previous car ('98 accord coupe) and my lights would dim a little with the volume high. In my 2011 mazda 3 I sedan. I have my volume at 24 and the lights dim on every bass note, and I was on the freeway last night got my rpm's at 3k and at 26 my lights were still dimming. The bass on the HU is set to -4 and I can turn my speakers (wit…
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Just looking around, i dont want to post a thread everytime i have a question. So i was just wondering if anyone had some good websites that i could look at that would give me some good quality information on all different types of enclosures. Iv been trying to look but im mostly finding build logs and i dont want to be reading up on crap. Thanks guys.
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alright, my truck motor blew last month... i pulled the motor and sent it to be over hauled. new pistons rings head, sleaves its all getting done.. i have a new turbo here ready to go... i love my wrecker and im thinking i need to put a new system in it kinda like a re birth for her..... currently i have... old sony explode cd player 2 4 inch coaxels 1 jensen 200 watt 1 kicker comp vr 8 mounted inside of a old clarion bass tube encloser... i just upgreaded my 4 channels in my car with a sax series soooo that leaves an jl 300/4 open for either use .. or sale to fund my new system. i want a mp3 player, i was thinking some 4 inch comps ran off the jl, along w…
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The amp im buying says it takes 4 guage... but its a 1600rms amp. I also have a amp on my door speakers that takes 8 guage but do i run a 1 guage and a distribution? Or do i go bigger and try to cram bigger than 4 in the sub amp?
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like I said to SS, I might be there, but I was wondering if there is a show vehicle for powerbass
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Well guys it has been a while since I have been here---ALOT of changes are about to be made---- 1--I am selling the Explorer 2--I am getting a 2005 All-Wheel Drive Dodge Magnum R/T in cool vanilla---can't wait 3--I am the top salesman at my Dodge dealership(I am in sales) 4--me and the wife just celebrated our 4 year ann. 5--I am also getting a MaxxBass 103 for the hell of it to test it out just to see if it is what it says it is. anything new from you guys? PS---winter will be fun---340 HP---390 lbs of torque and about 3000watts of pure SQ----any takers on helping me?
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I already have an Optima Red Top and alternator was replaced last year. Will the Big 3 upgrade help my problem? System is SAX100.4 and JBL 1200.1 0 gauge for power and ground.
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Front main woofers- http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=295-364 Center channel and Rear woofers- http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=295-330 Tweets- (one in center channel, one in each main, one in each rear) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=277-408 Subwoofers- 2 RE RE 10's (you know what they look like) Subwoofer amp- http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=300-793 I was thinking of running the ribbon tweet from Dayton but it has to be cutoff at 3k hz and there was a hard gap to fill between 2 and 3k hz. I want drivers that can bridge the gap and if the response graphs are anything like the real output …
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I've been using a sub & box combo that I picked up at a local car audio store a few years ago to get me by and have recently begun thinking about upgrading. So I've been reading up and just trying to educate myself on the matter and tonight I went out to try and calculate the box volume and tune of the ports. Just wondered if I figured this out right. I used a calculator here (the vent length calculator at the bottom). I had the vent length so I swapped frequencies in and out until I got one to match. Here's what I know. The box contains 2 10s. It's 30.5" wide, 13" tall, 9.5" deep at the top and 12" deep at the bottom (so I used an average depth of 10.75"). Whe…
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ok yea in the other post i said ordered 2 12" mags and a sundown 1500D thinkin of money for install and the issue of batt/alt/wires came to mind will i have to upgrade battery or alt. with the install??? oh and this shop guy said with a stock head unit i need sum continuous thing that when i turn up the volume the bass doesnt turn down...???.... saying i need some $200 thing to stop that and make it sound like i have an aftermarket HU...compared it to a JL cleansweep just that is to expensive neways thanks!
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When using the online port length calculator, http://www.carstereo.com/help2/Articles.cfm?id=31 , when it says to input the internal cf of my box do i use the gross - bracing - driver displacement or do I use gross - bracing - driver displacement - estimated port displacement? IE i have 5.2 cf gross internel volume. I will have about 4.6-4.7 after bracing and woofer displacement. Should I use 4.6 as my internal cf or should I use 4.0 cf as I am estimating the port will take up .6-.7 cf? btw the port size is 19x3. Thanks very much
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Alright, I plan on running 1100w-1200w RMS to an 18" woofer so I am torn between all 0 Ga wiring or using a 4 Ga amplifier wiring kit. The 4 Ga kit I'm looking at it rated for 1400w but I think 0 Ga would be better. Also, the amplifier I plan on using only has 4 Ga terminals for power and ground - would it be safe to trim down the 0 Ga and put them in 4 Ga terminals if I were to use 0 Ga? Amp is: JBL GTO 1201.1II - 1114w RMS at 2 ohms Woofer is: IA DR 18" D1 Thanks in advance! -John
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hey everyone, i am looking into 2 kicker 12" 4 ohm subs. now the problem is idk what amp to buy because the rating are different for different ohms (i think but i have no idea). what would that be 1 at 2 or 1 at 4, or am i just all mixed up and way off.
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I had this posted in the Fi forums, but I stopped getting replies so I figured I'd post out here. I bought an Fi Q12 and a Cadence TXA1000D around the new year. I got it all installed about 1.5 weeks into January. Everything was playing great for a while, sounded awesome. Well last week I was out driving around and my sub started to cut out. It would play some notes and then it would stop. A few seconds later it would start back up, play a few, and then stop. The next day I started playing it again and it sounded fine for about five minutes and it started to do the same stuff. Now, it wont hit anything. Every once in a while it will hit, out of no where, just ran…
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I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla Type S and I was wondering if any of you have the same car and have a system in it or have seen a system in a Corolla Type S? I need some ideas on setups. Right now I have a Batcap 800 in the trunk along with Dynamat in the trunk and under and on top of the rear deck, a JBL GTO 1200.1 II amp powering 2 Orion HP 12s sealed in 1.2 cubes each. So far I'm upgrading my amp to a Sundown Audio SAZ-1500D and upgrade my Batcap to a solenoid and a Stinger SP1000 battery. I already have a 70 amp alternator so I don't feel the need to upgrade my electrical system. As for subs I don't know yet. So far I may want a pair of SS RL-p 12s sealed in 1.35 c…
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Ok someone help me out before i shoot this thinggggg! ok this is my first recone. The screws wont get unloose when I use my drill it strips the screws. Do i chisel the glue off?
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My girlfriend is gettin a system for her birfday and I'm bout to build the box, should I do sub up port back? It's a 02 wrangler 2door soft top. It's a single 12in skar vvx on a audiopipe 1000d at 2ohms. Box will be 2.2ft3 at 30hz
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where can i get my wood cut, i dont have the equipment to do it, only a jigsaw, but suck at it
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