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Tomorrow is the day i get to install! A few questions So since i have to parelle wire can i do that through the box termibals or do i have to do it directly sub to sub? Also a link to a good 50hz tone cd

I am looking into purchasing a 15" DC level 4 XL or AA Mayhem. If I choose the DC, I have two wiring options. I have a 2400 watt amp at 1 ohm and 1700 at 2 ohms. How much difference does wiring a sub at 2 ohms make vs wiring it at 1 ohm? Would 1700 watts at 2 ohms be enough to get the DC going or should I just stick to 1 ohm?

im looking at replaceing my stock speakers with a set of CADENCE SOUND SYSTEMS CWM 6 KIT COMPONENT SPEAKER SYSTEM in the front and a set of Cadence Cadence Flash 5.25" 2-way Speakers for the rear the problem is i never heard them or of the name before are they any good? or should i shop around for some kappa's i want a good sound inside the car.

Can you use kicker power wire for both the fire and ground or does it have to be specific. power wire to fire and ground wire to negative? hope this makes since

I am in the process of buying a 2002 Camaro SS (monday it should be mine). I sold my old system except for my Planet Audio TT2250D and my Pioneer DEH-P860MP. I am getting a Planet Audio TT4200D, 2004 XXX 15", and a set of Rainbow Pro 3 Way components. For sound deadening, I have 3 gallons of Second Skin Spectrum. Jamie will be doing the Kicks for the Pro 4"s and tweeters, and the Vanadium 6.5" midbass will be mounted in the doors. He will also be doing the trunk install in all fiberglass. The trunk install won't be done for a little while so I will just make a temporary sealed box for the time being. I was wondering if I should get some Audiocontrol EQ gear to get i…

I need to replace the Alternator on my Sebring. Does anyone kow of any good companies to use.. I've contacted LOAD BOSS, they only sell 1 and its only 165 Amps. Excessive Amperage, I cannot get ahold of... & Dom Iraggi I have not heard a ton of good things about. Do you have any other suggestions? Would Powermaster Alts be a good place to look? Thanks for anyones help. I need the ALT replaced soon, I think its about to poop on me...

I have a Pioneer DEH-P3900MP and I gave it to my bro who installed it in his 05 Hyundai Sonota and when he was wiring it up he use pliers to cut all the cables off the stock wiring harness and he said that all the wires touched for a second when he cut all the wires so it made a spark, but after he got it all wired up it was working. He then screwed it in and put everything back together and the HU wouldn't play any sounds even though it was powered on and the volume was all the way up. He replaced the Audio and Clock fuses with new ones and there is still no sound. What could be the problem for why there is no sound?

These batteries I keep seeing people purchasing and talking about are deep charge batteries, correct? If so, what is the difference between buying one of those verses say, a deep charge mariine battery from Walmart? Thanks, Mark

Hey guys. This is just a simple question that i seem to confuse myself about, but i would like you guys opinion. I have a 2008 chevy impala and i just bought a 2013 chevy malibu. Im going to go all out with fixing my car up orion subs, rims and all, but which car should i use? Should i use the impala thats already paid for to fix up or should i use my new malibu? Either one i dont use will be my everyday car. Thanks!

Well I've officially had it with my system, and as soon as I get out of school I will be ripping my car apart and replacing everything but my HU and Amp (Alpine 7995, SS Ref 604). I currently have 0 gauge in my car, and it is way overkill (left over from a hardcore install). My car alt died yesterday, so I'll have a brand new one in tommorow and don't feel like killing it so this install will be very low power. I will drop to 4ga because I don't need anymore than that. Rip out my currently half-assed diy comp setup (Alpine tweet, infinity mid and xover) and replace it most likely with some CDT Ef's. My B212 is next to go basically because i'm sick of the space its taking …

Hi all. I had a friend of mine ask me to do a system for her. She wants to use my 2 Sundown Audio SD1-v.2 subwoofers and my Sundown Audio 100.2 to power them. Her car is a 2009 Ford Fusion, which leads me to my issue. It has Microsoft Sync, and she would like to retain the stock head unit if possible. I know the only way to do this it to use a LOC, but I've never used one, as I always upgrade the HU. I have read that if you use one the factory system will turn down the bass automatically to protect the other speakers, thus making the subwoofers not serve their full purpose. Is this true? Would it be a waste to use a LOC? Am I best off convincing her to spend money…

so i really don't know how to explain what i need.. basically i need basic help tuning my SAE 1000D amp to get the most out of my Q. i know this is a pretty broad question and has been answered before, but i guess i'd rather just have specific help for me rather then reading up on other people's help. i've had the set up for a couple months now, probably early/mid november, had a "custom made" box from my local audio dealer. i don't doubt that they made it, i just doubt theres anything really fancy about it. and it sounds great as it is, but i really think that it can hit alotttttt harder then it is right now. atleast judging by what people are saying on the forums it see…

Are there any good front speakers that can be run off of my head unit or do i have to get an amp.

I have a slight leak in my trunk area which causes a small amount of rain water to drip on my carpeted enclosure. My question is, how bad is it on the box? Will it deteriorate the mdf? I know the main response will be to fix the leak, but its been a repeated fix that keeps coming back.

im confused help me out?

right now i have two 12" eclipse sw7200 subs, i had a rockford p600.2 pushing them and i kno thats nowhere near the output they handle but i got them both in a deal... i sold the amp and i am wondering if i should sell the subs as well to get something different... ive been looking into the ssa icons and the fi q's... im not looking for ridiculous bass... however i want something that can get respectably loud and have excellent sq, something that can hit the lows and sound good doing it.. i was looking at these two brands because from what i hear on this forum they work well on both ends of the spectrum (so to say) they are gonna be powered by a aq1200 amp and also its go…

Got a question about running power cables thru my 2011 Chevy Tahoe I have seen people run their cables either thru the firewall or under the truck using flexible conduit. Which is preferable? Or is that depending on the amount of runs you are doing. I am planning on 2 runs of both positive and negative from a D3400 under the hood to a D3100 in the rear running a Crescendo BC5500D for 2 ZCON 15’s. If it is just a matter of preference then my question is answered, but if there are other issues to consider then any input would be greatly appreciated. I won’t start my build for about another month or so (in Afghanistan) so I have just been pouring over the net and this forum …

im thinkin about buying a newer model hatchback..any suggestions on them..what ones look good and are a decent price?

Ok so water got in one of my tweeters and I need replacements, I'm looking for soft or silk dome tweeters that sound very smooth. I would like the to come with there own crossover. I'm not going active til a little later. They will be paired with crescendos new pwx 6.5 pa speaker. I'll prolly cross the pwx at 3000hz or wherever the crossover points are on the tweet possibly. Budget is 80 and down. They will be ran on a mb quart 125.4. There are so many choices but hardly any reviews can one of you point me in a good direction?

Well, my bro came home tonight and his car was broken into at school. they tore the lock out of his door, damaging the paint job he just spent $3K on, and all they got was a $100 Pioneer CD player. When will it end?! Never. Good thing is, there's an even better HU in it's place right now. How you like that Bi*ches! Can't keep a man from his tunes.

Well I know I'm no competitor or anything. Still a learner. I'm still here. Been checking SSA and CA.com occasionally. Been busy with school and working this summer. I'm sorta behind on all the audio gear. I still have my lil 94 GMC Sonoma. Its going to be my project. I just bought an 03 Jeep Liberty Sport. It'll be my daily until my truck is done. The GMC is gunna be my summer truck, but I'm going to do it up like I want to. I don't have my full license yet, but its coming. September 20th is when I'm eligible to get it. And I still got my Mach 5 SPL-12s. There still in the same place they've been since I bought them. Have had them for almost a year. Still no power has we…

I have a set com Rainbow SLC-265 components and a 15" arsenal. Will these sound balanced in my new '96 jeep Cherokee? I'm worried the sub will be over bearing. Should I just keep the sub lower or get a smaller sub? As long as the components can keep up with the sub that is all I'm worried about. I hate it when I get in someones car and all they upgraded was the sub, and coincidentally that is all I can hear. The sub. boom boom boom thud. How musical......

Chyea! so i wanna look into a nice audio set up for my car but im not 100% sure on what exactly to look for or how it all works really. So im looking to see if anyone can explain or direct me to a website or something that can explain how car audio works. preferably starting from the basics. Something for example would be this: T2-250.1: Continuous Power @ 14.4 V: 175W x 1 @ 4 ohms 250W x 1 @ 2 ohms what does it mean when it says 175w x 1 @ 4 ohms? (Are ohms not resistance and why is there more on something with less watts?) thanks for any help.