General Audio

Might be a stupid question but im gonna ask it anyway.I have a enclosure with 2 thread rods running from the front of the enclosure all the way to the back of the enclosure for support. Can i also use these thread rods for a speaker terminals also? I will be running a memphis 16-2000d to a 18" btl d1 voice coils. Will be running in a series for a 2 ohm load.

i found this on parts-express, looks neat. anyone have any info on them? would be much appreciated. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=299-744 Thanks, -Chris

does anybody know of some good Components, budgets around 300 are so this is for my work van they will be powerd by a SAX-100.2 .thanks

New setup coming soon, here is my current setup. Fi SSD 15 in 3.5cuft @ 33hz Kicker zx750.1 on the sub (4 gauge power, 12 gauge sub wire) Kenwood coax 4's in the front & coax 6 1/2" on the back stage (both running on deck power) New setup Fully loaded BTL 15 in 4cuft @ 30hz Sundown 3k @ 1ohm on the BTL (Big 3 upgrade, 0 gauge power, 8 gauge speaker wire) Some loud components in the front, idk what to put in the back Sundown 100.4 for the components and the back (4 gauge power, 16 gauge speaker wire) 50-100sqft sound deadening kinetik 1600 superglue for my rearview mirror

I have been thinking of different designs. Is there any issues with mounting a subwoofer in the inside port wall facing the port? I know the velocity from the port would be directed across the face of the sub, would this cause cancellation? Or would it depend on volume of the port? Any input is appreciated. Chad

where is all the x-con set -ups. i see alot of ppl getting these so where are the pic's??????????????

What is more important to place deadner on? The outer layer of the door? Or the inner metal where the speaker mounts?

Our friend Don Sambrook (goes by Rudy on the forums), who for a number of years has been dedicating his time and effort to a 3rd party resource for sound deadener, has taken all the results from his tests and started his own product line. Sound Deadner Showdown. There is the CLD Tiles, Butyl Rope, Vinyl CCF, and Vinyl barrier. So far the site looks great and has a very simple and straight forward layout. He is currently working on the site right now I believe, so keep your eye out for more updates. Check it out, the prices are very reasonable too.

Does anybody know where I can get battery terminals that will take 2 1/0 gauge wires.

I have the almost perfect exact dimensions for it: W: 37.1875 H: 17.25 Top depth: 15.4375 bottom d is same as top wood thick: .75 port h: 15.75 port w: 3.1875 port l 1: 11.5 port l 2: 4.5625 box vol: 3.9 (ft3) I'm borrowing it from a friend for my Fi BL, so i have no idea what it would be tuned to, but i got all the dimensions Also, based on everything, what should i set my amp levels to for it? I have this picture that someone suggested i use for my chit, but my sub doesn't hit hardly with these settings Something else i don't get is, the screw is one long line and one shorter line, which is suppose to line up with these arrows?

Not sure if this is the right area so sorry if its not but here we go... Ok, so ive never installed my own set up so want im asking here is if anyone can help me put together something really really cheap i can use just to get the hang of installing everything, it doesnt have to sound amazing or even be good i just want the install experience before i do my actually set up. No custom work will be done so im aiming at finding a something already in an enclosure, thanks for any help. And i know somebody is gonna say budget, and my budget is as cheap as it can possibly get. Also for a deck is it gonna need to be replaced with something or can i just use a stock piece of junk…

When i want to show off my stuff im always afraid of blowing my subs. I was wondering if there is a formula or something that you guys use to make sure you know where the subs limit is? If i dial in my gains to where the amp is not sending clipped signals when the head unit is all the way up, does this mean that i can turn the head unit up as much as i want and not have to worry? I have an Audioque HDC312 "1000 RMS" sub Audioque AQ1200D all wired at 1 ohm

Well im new to car audio, and have been wanting to install a sub along with a new head unit replacing the stock one I have. After hours of looking around and asking I've finally come this being the starters for my first install 1 15" ssd dual 2 ohm & copper coil Sundown SAE/SAZ-1000D Pioneer DEH-P7000BT its a budget setup for my 1999 mazda protege, and I usually listen to rock and club/house music, and am aiming for an inbtween of sq and spl, yet leaning towards spl. so tell me what you guys think, does it work?

For my setup (In My Sig.) which mids and highs are the best, crisp, and loudest between these three? MIDS Rockford Fosgate http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2481_R...nch+P1692S.html Kicker http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11504_Kicker+KS6930.html JL Audio http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_1603_J...+TR690-TXi.html HIGHS (TWEETERS) Kicker http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11520_Kicker+08KS20.html Rockford Fosgate http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18209_...gate+P1T-S.html

i went to my local car audio shop today and they had a good deal on this beefy 15 inch sub. its a razor zsoft. the guy who owns the shop gets em built i've heard. anyways..the sub says its a 4ohm. what kind of amp do i need to get this thing seeing atleast 400 rms. if anyone can toss a link i'd appreciate it because im ready to order an amp right now. i have an ebay account so if you can find me something like autotek or hifonics on there i'd like that..those amps sound okay and dont cost alot.

A little fun with my new recones. Thier strapped at 2ohms and drink up everything I got. Good sign. :bigclap:

So, I am getting ready to buy a box from a friend that is made for a 2008 F150 super crew (which is what i have)...however, the box is carpeted in a fuzzy gray carpeting and my interior is black. Is it ok to just rip the carpet off and recarpet it? Also, if I decided I didnt want to recarpet in black, is it ok to sand the parts of the box that you will see down some, apply some light layers of resin to harden it, sand it down and paint it? I have never done this, but I think it will give the nicest look. Thanks

I have a Soundstream TRX 4.420,it puts out 70 watts rms x 4 channels @ 4 ohms, and 105 watts rms @2 ohms.------I have 2 sets of infinity's that run at 2 ohms,1 set of 6x9s rated at 105watts rms, and 1 set of 5 1/4 componets rated @ 75 watts rms. If I added 2 more sets and wired them together ass if it was 4 seperate dual voice coil subs in series each on there own channel would each speaker get 70 watts? or would each speaker get 35 watts? or would my amp burn up, even though it can run a 2 ohm load from running 8 speakers 2 for each channel? is this possible----------------Question #2 If this is a bad idea, and I probally will not do this anyway I was just wondering If t…

has anyone every ordered anything from this website? they have some pretty good deals and im just trying to make sure there a credible website before i make a purchase

What does these mean on subs? FS RE QMS QES QTS SD RMS CMS MMS BL VAS XMAX XCOIL Please tell me what each of those mean if you can!!

Yes, i can get my player loose and everything, but it won't actually come out unless i take this stupid dash board brown thing out, and this is as far as i have gotten. Not sure if i was suppose to pull up the transmission trim, but whatever:

I currently have two RF P3 12s, a Hifonics 1208D amp, a 1 farad stinger cap. and 4awg wire all around. yet my electrical is VERY noticably weak, headlights dimming a TON and just overall weak flow rate. im looking at a new battery, like the http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/zencart...products_id=101 should i replace my factory battery, put it in line with what i have now, or replace it with where my cap. is? i plan on getting a new, more powerful setup this summer, so there will be even more power needed. any suggestions? if you need any more information, just ask. i konw i missed something thanks a ton!

I searched a couple of weeks back for a converter that would allow me to put 6.5 inch midbass drivers in the doors of a tahoe and was able to find it. Now I am ready to purchase them, and I can't find them anywhere. I found them on ebay, but after hours of searching I can not find it. The speakers in the door are built into a plastic type converter so they can fit into the hole. I just need aftermarket ones so that I can install a standard 6.5 inch speaker into the door without any modification to the door itself. Thank you.

I was refered to the board from the mwsr msg. board hope some one can help me out heres the deal puttin the touch screen in the lincoln, got the parking break wire grounded and the vidio is working fine...BUT i aint gettin any sound when the car is started, but I do when it is on acc. keep following me though.... there is a red (it is hot) wire that was grounded to the back of the fac. radio and if I ground and then release this wire while the car is on I get my sound back..... aint never mesed with somthin like this....DO I NEED TO GROUND THIS WIRE?? IF SO WHERE...TO THE BACK OF MY DVD PLAYER...TO THE FRAME??? IM LOST ANY INFO WOULD BE GREAT...ALSO ANY BODY KNOW WHERE I…

I just have a general question about current draw. I am seriously concidering jumping on the 2000d presale and was wondering if it puts out 300 amps max current draw at 1 ohm, what will the nominal and max draw be at 2 ohms. Is there a mathmatical formula I can plug numbers in? I plan on running 2 2000d's at 2 ohms each since i have 2 dual 4 12's. Thanks guys, I still love this forum.