General Audio

35 cubes tuned at 40Hz. 555 square inches of port. Power will be 5000-7000 on burps. Could i safely run this enclosure daily between 2000-3000 or should i make a port insert? What do you think? What sub's? The IXL18.2's would have been considered but they are not in stock. Thanks in advance for your help.

i was just wondering, how important are TS specs really? i mean if a certain number is better that others wouldn't everyone shoot for that exact number? also why don't sub companies add specs like LE? thats a pretty important spec yet you have to look forever to find it.

My roomate was watching me design a t-line and said "hey, I can make one better than that, all you have to do is make a maze and throw speakers in" I told him the principle of a t-line and he said "watch, mine will revolve around the speed of sound." This is his product and it is the ultimate subwoofer enclosure! Just thought I'd share... I may have to incorporate mewtwo and jedi in to my next enclosure...

I am doing an engine conversion, and the altenator on the engine is rated at 50 amps. I am looking into a 100-150 amp altenator, yellow or red top, and the big 3. I am running 1000wrms.

I wonder what wiring diagram for subwoofer to amp? heres pic of sub.. http://projectconcept.com/massive.jpg specs for amp is bxi2008d: 1ohm 2,000 watt 2ohm 1,300 watt.. for Massive subwoofer specs: Weight 61.00 lbs Size 15 Watts 6000 RMS 1500 Cone Carbon Fiber Voice Coil 3.0" Quad 1 Ohm Surround 1" Tall Durax Foam Magnet 200oz Flux Ferrite Y40 Terminals Push-In or Bannana Nickel Plated Basket Aluminum Die-Cast Tinsel Leads Woven Silver Plated X-Max 60 peak to peak SPL 100.1 dB so hope hear from one of u guys thanks..

I have been too scared to even start on removing my door panels to complete my install and put in some mid bass drivers / tweets. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with 07 / 08 tahoes / avalanches and knew the right way to take the door panels / pillars out without breaking anything. After searching around for a while I couldn't find anything. I really don't want to mess it up too much.... it's basically brand new. (like 18's won't vibrate it apart anyway)..... Any help would be appreciated.

Hi guys, I am interested in building a floating amp rack, but I'm not sure quite how to do it. Any info would be helpful, especially links with pics or even vids. I have a concept of what I want it to look like but not sure how to hide the wires. Thanks for anything you guys can throw at me!

I may be buying Tirefryr's JBL BPX2200.1 if he still has it which i believe he does the last time i talked to him. Anyways what do you guys suggest i should do to my electrical system right now to handle it. Only gonna run it on one BL with the gain turned way down. So im thinking 2 runs on 0 from the front back and the red top i have in the back right now will handle it or am i sorely mistaken? I figure i could sell the 1200d to pay for the HO alternator but what do you guys suggest?

I am in the market for a car alarm for my 94' Suburban before I put all the gear in it. I can vaguely recall that there used to be some of the alarm makers having wiring harnesses out that would plug into your existing vehicle harnesses so that it would cut out having to splice into all the different loc.'s for the alarm to function. I have done a little searching on the net so far and not really found what I'm looking for or what I thought was out there. Maybe I'm wrong or maybe they abandoned the idea. Anybody got any input on this. I am not new to installing an alarm on a vehicle, but it's been a few years, and I am just trying to cut down on time on putting one o…

Audioque HDC315 vs RD Alpha v2 15" D2 Which does they beat harder? just curious.. my amp is Hifonics Brutus BXi2008D Class D AMPLIFIER 2000 RMS! 1ohm 2,000 2ohm 1,300 can gain amp to 1500 on gain so curious about it..

Got bored yesterday and decided to do somethin constructive. decided to make something so that i could use 1/0 guage on my AQ 1200, the power and ground inputs are only 4 guage

I have a 1985 chevy el camino. I am contemplating on what to put in it for subs. the measurements I have for room are 20 wide x 10 high x 18 roughly deep and I can put one of these boxes on each side of the tranny hump. So i am stuck between a 8"and 10" sub for each side. I really liked my uncles 12w7 in a 2.25cube box tuned to 32 with a jl1000. I have a Rockford Fosgate t10001bd amp. I have put a 140 amp altenator in my car my stock one was 58amps. So my amp power should be good. What is a good pair of 8s or 10s that will fit in the space that I have ported that will hit like my uncles 12w7.

just like the indy thread, is there any local box builders in macomb or oakland county or anything close to those? i dont have many tools and no exp with wood and every quote i got was 500+ or if you no some shops that build quality boxes for good prices let me no, thanks

yea i just wondering is the type x better than the 9500's 12's... cleaner sound louder in stuff i heard good and bad things bout both...

yeep fressh from another forum, this truelly amazes me amazing BMW 3 series install!

I have a Sirius satellite radio, that the plug/transformer end of the powercord for it, no longer works. I want to wire it directly into the car. However, the transformer steps the current down to 5.2v/1.5a. My question....based on a system that puts out 14+ volts, what size resister would I need in order to correctly stepdown the power going to the radio? My biggest concern here is frying the radio itself.

So I got meh 4 gauge amp kit today. :bigclap: My dad is fixed on helping me with the install and he said it would be easier to put the amp under the seat instead of in the trunk, and he is worried it might overheat in the trunk on a hot summer day. It fits nice and snug under the seat, and all I would have to run to the trunk would be speaker wire. Is there a reason I shouldn't put it under the seat instead of the trunk?

so my dads cars alt went out, he bought a new one but it doesnt seem to fit it and now we have a spare brand new alt laying around and he said could have it. its only a 105 amp alt so i dont really want to replace it with my 120 amp alt but maybe someone rig it in with my stock one, would it like having a 225 amp alt? or would it not be worth my time to rig something to install it into my blazer

Is this place legit? I ordered my alpine 9887 from there When I tried calling it goes straight to voicemail and when I E-mailed it said that E-mail was invalid... http://clarityelectronics.com/

I'm looking for someone in the Indianapolis or surrounding area to build a box for me. I keep getting $350-$400 quotes and was thinking I might be able to get one made cheaper/maybe not. I have zero tools so there is no way I could do it. The subs will be 2-15"D4 IA LI to go in a 07 Ford Escape with usable dim. of 40Wx22Dx22H in a ported box tuned between 32-35hz. No need to carpet since I think I'm going to use bedliner. These will be powered by a SAZ-1500D. Thanks in advance

my friend wants me to build him a box for 2 12" rf p1's. right now hes using a pre fab box that is complete garbage. its for his dodge daytona, which is a hatchback, any tips on what size sounds good, or what airspace sounds good for a ported box, or if sealed sounds better with those, because i have no idea. thank you very much

I got a phone call from my buddy today and he wants me to build an enclosure for his step dad's jeep. The woofer is a 12" Sony Xplode that he used to have in his truck. I have NO experience with this woofer. What would you guys, if you have experience with it, recommend for the airspace for a ported enclosure? I'm not sure on the power, I'm assuming like 300w though.

which are u running?

i was told if i had the RCA wire form hu to amp next to my power wire it can cause interference? this was from a kid that is known at our school for knowing about car audio...

Check out the car club website and tell me what you think??? www.akoustikkonceptscarclub.webs.com