SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Hey, I just built my first box. 2.18 cubic feet tuned to 34hz, for under the seat of a 2003 Silverado. The box sounds great, but looks horrible. So, my questions are. Do you use wood glue to hold the box together? Or just screws? Do you use screws or nails? What type of silicone do you use to seal the box? Help is greatly appreciated. And for those wondering; the box was built for an RE Audio SX 10", so far we've tested it with a Soundstream SPL 10" and it sounds great, the RE should be here in a few days.

I'd appreciate any help you guys can give me on this.... I have a 12'' Nightshade on the way and need some help with the enclosure. I currently have a 10'' Fi BL in 1.6 cubes tuned to 35 hz in my reg cab Ranger. I know it isn't the prettiest thing in the world, but it's the optimum size for the 12'' Nightshade and I'd like to re-use it. My first problem is the mounting depth.....I'm going to have to add some spacer rings to allow the Nightshade to fit depth wise and obviously I'm going to have to increase the cutout to allow a 12'' 12 spoke basket to fit. I wanted to ask you guys what would be the best way to go about this? Should I make a few circular spacers around the…

i dont know if this is the right section but i was wondering whats a good filler to cover screw holes on the outside of an enclosure before painting the enclosure? i made a box out of birch. i want to have a high gloss finish after i paint it with no screws showing. thanks

I think this is the right place to put this. Ok, I want loud, but not "boomy" bass. Is that possible??? I will be pushing my 2 RL-p 15's with an A2400DB Power Acoustik amp (1800w rms @1ohm). Would my best bet be to go with a sealed box?? Or should I go with a ported one?? I listen to hiphop, rock, and everything in between. I would like to have a good LSQ system. Any info you can give me would be great. Thx, Victor. B) P.S. this system is going into a s10 xcab. So the subs will be inside with me not in a trunk.

The past few weeks I have been going to a few comps here and there and noticing a lot of talk about what to tune your box to to get the highest SPL. Just looking to get opinions on here since there are a lot of competitors. Me personally, Im running 2 DC level 5 15's box tuned to 40hz @ 7.7 cubes doing 149.4 @ 53 hz........Not sure if i could tune it down to get better results or to tune it higher. Anyone got any suggestions?

hey, im going to be buying a VW rabbit in a couple months cause i got accepted to my #1 choice university!!!! i got a scholarship so now i have about 10 grand saved up plus i'll take out a student loan and im gettin paid to go to school (1600 bucks a month). I currently have a Fi Q18 tuned to 28-30 hz, and i hit 145.2 on my first try with some music. Im looking for some help on deciding what the best setup would be for a hatchback. Im thinking 2 12" BTLs with about 5000 watts. im really excited to get this project goin. my goal is to break the 150 mark but music is what the stereo will play, no farting. any help is appreciated!!!! thanks

im lookin to start a new build and try doing a wall. i know i shouldnt be doing this myself but the only way to learn it to ask a ton of questions and do it yourself. im not sure on the best/proper way to safely secure a wall. the walls gonna be for 2 psi platform 3s which arent too light. i just dont want the wall crushing me if i ever get into an accident. thanks.

Just like the title says, what is the best way to splice a wire? Solder? If so what kind? How about some sort of crimp thingamabob?

i kno this is a stupid question but whats the difference in 1/2" mdf and 3/4" mdf?is there a big difference in sound?

Im going to have a custom box made soon and was wondering what is the difference between a slot port and a kerffed style port? Well there be any difference in bass?

Besides the obvious, what is the difference between front fire and down fire enclosures? Is it just a prefrence issue or is there a sound quality difference?

Hey everyone, So I finally started building my first box that will hold two 2 10" DCONs Everything looked good as I thought I could achieve 2.5 cuft with some 44in of port at 11"x4"...... Well now that I have all the walls in, I have begun to realize just how new at this woodworking stuff I am. I can't post any pictures now so I'll try to explain this as best I can. Mistake 1: I have the port coming in on the left side, going in some 22 inches, then turning and following the back wall the last 22 inches. I planned on having 4 inches of width throughout the port but thanks to my amazing tablesaw abilities, I have 4 inches on that initial run, and only 3.75inches for the…

I plan on going with 3 -10's box will be 3.2cf after sub displacement will be using 2-3 6" external aero ports. Tuned to 32hz and running 2k. Subs in mind are sa's or skar 10's maybe even custom built 10's from splaudio. Box will be subs back port to the front.

Cabin volume vs box volume. when building a wall do think the box should have more volume than the cabin? Spl should be louder in the smaller of the 2 right.

When you build a box with a swapable port, how to you determine internal box volume, as in, what it needs to be once the port is in? I'm going to build a box for the BTL that's 7.5 cubes and want three different ports, 26hz, 34hz, and one for whatever my peak frequency in the vehicle with be. I'm not sure, but wouldn't the different port sizes also affect tuning by changing box volume? I feel like this is really simple and i'm just punching myself in the face here. What am I missing?

Topic says is.. I'm still running a Fi ssd 15 and a Sundown sae-1200d.. I know I'm not giving a lot of detail here, but should this setup hit the lows like in the song " White Girl " ? If so do I need a new box tuned to a lower hz?

hey, i know im a little premature since im still looking for a vehicle to build up , but where can i get a small sheet of plexi to etch for a custom logo? So far ive got most of it planned out. Ive got a pioneer HU, a damn near industructible class D amp thats stable to 1 ohm. Since i took all the stuff out of the X i just need to find another vehicle to put it in, and I plan on building a custom enclosure when i get the car/truck and decide on a subwoofer, right now leaning to one of adire audio's product line. Who know's , maybe once im done i'll even grace the local car show with my presence But for now im still in the planning stages. Could i order plexi online…

i'm new to car audio, but would really like to learn to custom build and fabricate (amongst other things), so i was wondering where i could go to learn to do those things. i know there are tutorials, but i learn better with hands-on experience, so are there any places anyone could suggest. thanks for your suggestions

Just made a new box for my 21" dp (the amp I will be running is a sundown 3500, I have (2) 1750 strapped right now about 3000 watts) in a 2000 Ford Taurus. (8.3 cu ft/32hertz) The sub is facing up, with a top on it to direct wave more in the car and stop trunk rattle. The port is firing in the car. (I guess its sort of a 4th order/ported box combo) During the build I wanted to make sure since the port would be firing in the car and the sub facing up with a top on it, to completely seal the front wave from the rear trunk. After the installation, it was loud but noticeably louder with the trunk open. Ok I must have missed sealing something..... I noticed I missed a few spot…

So I decided to post this outside my build log to see if anyone might have any ideas to help me solve this issue. Equipment: SLS 8inch Midbass Drivers running 60hz - around 200 i think. Mounted in the doors w/ a pretty solid treatment of SDS MLV, CCF, and CLD. Shitty GM doors aside, its a pretty solid installation. kicker 250.2 bridge to each side Description of problem: Midbass from left side is quieter by rough 1/2 to the ear w/ an 80Hz sine wave tone (measures around 8dB lower IIRC). I don't remember there being a huge difference between left and right previously, though I didn't really touch the stereo for over a year. My understanding of …

i can't find it anywhere, where do you all buy your polyfill?

im in need of a 3- 4" aeroports at parts express. their kits only go up to a 17" port tube. what should i do when i need atleast 21-24" of port length? i went to my local home depot and compared the pvc pipe with a 3" areoport i had laying around and they do not match up. so do i need to order "special" tubing for my application? thanks!

I'm going to be putting together a new box this weekend for a 10'' BL in my reg cab ranger. First off, the box will be 1.6@36-37 with (2) 3'' aeroports (Fi recommends 1.25). Will I run into any problems with having the box larger than optimal size? How should I put my ports? Here's the space I'm working with: Option 1: Option 2: Option 3:

Where is a cheap place to get some 3" Aeroports ? I saw them for $13.88 on this site, just wondering if there are any places that are cheaper. Its gonna be about $35 shipped for 2, which isnt the most appealing thing ever

I am thinking about getting someone to make me a custom box. Anyone know anyone that does this?