SPL & SQ / Fabrication

2 12" type r's need dimensions (height and length) finishing the box tomorrow. One single square port. Tuning box to 33-37hz, probaby about 35. Box is 37x26x13 with .75" particle. Subs are facing up.

hear is a thred I stard a wile ago on ca.com http://www.caraudio.com/forums/enclosure-design-construction-help/511643-fiberglass-box.html#post7584947 right now I have a ported sa-8 and have 500 wats going to it and I love it but I wont to try a fiberglass box so I can save a lot of space in my ride I like the skar 10 bild for the gtr that kevin did but I dont know if it will fit what aver sub I pick has to have a monting depth and magnet diameter of less then 6.5" and I will be sinding the sub 500 wats this is in the back of a 06 equinox so betwin the sa-10 and the skar 10 what will be the bater sub I lising to rap and rock

I need help. I traded my 2 vvx-15 for a sundown v2 18 inch in a box that needs help. I want I box thats tuned between 30-34 htz. I want it vented not ported, I like the look better. I like how loud it gets but I would like to control it a little better when I turn it up, but I think its the box that leaks. I have a jeep grand cherokee, so I know I have the space for a large box. At the moment the the sub faces up I would like it if it fired to the back. Any help is greatly appreciated. And I am still running the planet audio bb2400.1

So basically I'm slowly piecing my system together and had an idea for an amp rack that is somewhat "expandable". It consists of a wooden base, with a wooden box attached to the end of it for the amps, batteries, etc to be placed into. I'm planning on having ventilation and having the rear of it open faced. It would have shelving for the amps.I'm thinking I could secure the wooden base to these strap hooks I have in the rear of my truck (2006 tahoe), have them protude through the bottom then either use a heavy duty strap or bolts through them. I'd rather not drill into the body anymore than I have in order to secure it. One of the reasons I'd like this design is for secur…

I have a 1989 Dodge B250 Van. I removed the backseats and built a platform to hold a setup I am getting ready to build. I will not be building a wall. The subs were going to be facing the back of the van and my plan was to have the port on the back of the box. Do you think that would work properly or should I move it to the front. The speaker box will more than likely 21-24cubes and tuned around 32hz. It is supposed to be for 4 18's or 6 15's. I am leaning towards the 15's.

Alright I am trying to figure out a design for my car. Box is for 2 15" Nightshades, with tons of power, Jacob said I only need 2.5 cubes per sub. Anyways my dimensions are 30" deep, 16" tall and 31" wide. Only way really to fit this is if I do subs up. Now I wanted to do external aero ports blowing right into the car, but that won't fit. So now I am thinking A. aero ports blowing in but internal, b. aero ports blowing to the side, but internal, c. regular port facing in, d. regular port to the side, e. regular port to the rear.

Just got my new BTL 18 with all the goodies i wanted. now for the box. I plan on building it, but it will be the first one i build. Naturally i have a few questions that i would appreciate anyone taking the time to answer. I got alot of box building info from http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com/ it seems to be legitimate information, i'm pretty sure i got the link from this site. but should the height of a box really be 1.4X the weight??? with my calculations, to get a box of 8.6 cubes BEFORE port and sub displacement, my box has the be 34 inches tall!!! (25X34X17.5) Ports brings me to my next question... are there are any performance differences in the type of port yo…

looking to make a sealed enclosure for a 10" Infinity Kappa Perfect DVQ. the sub will be getting 400rms, just trying to get some confirmation on the dimensions of the box i should make based on my reading I should be looking for a box with about .8 cubic feet and using the mid-size insert. this look correct to everyone?

Alright so I'm making a box for 2 kenwood 12s. I'm thinking 1.5 for each sub. Idk wether to do a single chamber for both or separate chambers?.. I'm leaning more towards one chamber and one port. I want it tuned to 32 hz. This box is going into a trunk so size isn't a big issue. If anyone could make me a nice design I'd be very greatfull. Thank you.

I am looking for someone to build me a box for my SSA Xcon 10. Looking for something that will hit on all types of music. The sub will be in a Trailblazer with a cadence A7hc at 1 ohm so around 1200 watts. I would like to keep the size down as much as possible. Ported preferred. If anyone wants to build for me pm me and we can work out a deal. Thanks

Cuz im going to compete i could use some test tones, if anyone has them, please email me or send me them on MSN toom585[at]hotmail.com

I am looking for someone who can design an enclosure for my trunk, max dimms are: H=14", W=38", D=38", Tuned to 30hz, Will be using 7000wrms+. Thanks.

Looking to get a decent prefab until I have time to build a box. Anyone have any reccomendations?

ok ,so i got a box (not really square, its a pentagon) made out of 3/4mdf , i got 5.09 cubes of air space with out the sub in (sub its a 15"fi btl) how big of a rectangular port do i need ? its this called port area ?? i had planned to have it 12.5wide x 5tall x 24 long... tuned to 33hz... does this sound rigth ?? please help me out...

I am the fortunate owner of a 4th generation camaro :-p Anyways I have a dcon 10 on the way with plans to add a second. Ive seen the box plans for optimal ported and they look fine but because my box is going to be 3 sections with a wedge on top I dont even want to try to do a slot port. If anyone could just give me the size of the box and port ( to achieve the same result as the optimal ported enclosure ) with the port volume already included I would be very thankful

I was doing a dry build of sub enclosure yesterday and I decided to see how the kreg jig would work on some scraps. I wasn't able to find a bit long enough and small enough to pre drill and the wood split. My question is can I use"L" brackets instead and how good would they work? Second question what sealer to use? I'm not going to be able to seal the top panel because I will have to put my subs in when I put the front baffles on and I will not be able to get to the top inside corners what should I do?

First qustion i no its pretty noob but to attach mdf together i predrill then add wood glue and screw in the predrilled holes correct. also i am trying to make my corners rounded where two piece of mdf are meeting also i got a ring so the sub would mount to and then i am going to attach it to the box so it will be flushed mounted do i do them as predrilling etc or do i need bracing heres a link to my build log so you can kinda see what i am working with My Nissan frontier build sorry about grammar and spelling been a long few days of fiberglassing

Ok i have been competing in an 02 ford explorer (third gen) with two 12'' nightshades, 2 1500s, and a big ol battery box in the back.. sub up expernal aero ports back, i am looking at ways to make the vehicle louder not get more power as i am reaching my limitation running in MECA s2, anyone with any suggestions i am at a loss for ideas, also it has the third row seat which make the vehicle about a foot longer than the one without in 3rd gen models..

alright. ive got the dimensions. i have 2 options of building this. its kind of going to be trial and error until i find the right height i want the desk to be, but here it goes. the box needs to be 4.5 cubes each (2 seperate boxes) and tuning...im guessing like 20ish or 24hz or something? 95% of the time its for rap music. once in a blue moon i may watch a movie on it. but for the most part, i want it to sound best on rap music. the dimensions im working with are 39" x 37" (width and length) using those 2 dimensions, i need to see how high it will be to make 4.5 cubes after determining the tuning and port length, etc. if i like the height, ill build the box using that wi…

im building a rectangular box. i was gonna ported cuz i was gonna get a 10" fi ssd. originally i was gonna make a L shaped ported box but was told 2 get aero ports insted. the box that i wanna build is 3/4" mdf and is 30" long, 9" deep, and 12" high and has 1.30 cu. ft. of air. The ssd needs to be .90-1.80 cu. ft ported to 33hz. wat should i do? can sum one make a diagram or sumthing? thanks.

i have a box all designed on sketch up, 4.2cuft tuned about 30hz. the sub will be on the rear passenger side of the cab, it will take the middle seat and the passenger seat in the rear. the sub will aim inbetween the front two seats and the port will either face towards the roof of the cab all the way to the passenger side or towards the drivers side. what would you guys do? originally i was going to face the port towards the drivers side, but if i have a passenger in the back i think it might blow their ear drum a bit... but i am sceptical about aiming it towards the roof because i dont think ill have as much air moving throughout the cab as evenly? idk.. what would you …

I decided to temporarily put in one of my SE12's in at 2ohms on my T3002 in mono mode. Giving it approx. 800 watts. The box is 2 cubes after all displacement. For the port I doulble up a pc of 3/4" MDF and glued a pc of 4" pvc pipe through 1 layer and router a 1/2" radius on the top layer to make a homemade aeroport. The length overall of this port is 13". I don't believe I am right in thinking the tuning is at 32. Can someone double check me on this. Also am thinking about shortening the lenght of the port to get about a 35 hz tuning. This is just a temporary daily box for me to have something till it warms up. But I listen to all kinds of music so I needed some beat in …

lookin for some competitors who have some experience with 4th orders so i can get a glimpse on starting on my own testing efficiently

I need some music in the garage while i work on my car so it's not dead out there... I have spare parts from car audio that i will use, so as u see, nothing in specific like building in the car... I have a 10" sub Audiobahn Eternal wired to sundown 100.4 bridged at 8ohm. Outputting only ~108w on a test tone is PLENTY of power for this 10" sub. It can successfully drop down to 20hz on some custom music i made so i know it's not a bad driver to use for simple music setup. Now, the box i have it in is not suitable.. but i have a problem... The low end extension doesn't become really audible below ~30hz unless i am standing 20ft away from it. How can I get decent low end outp…

So tomorrow I'm going to begin building my enclosure for 2 10" Skar IVX's. I'll just be running these as a temp. setup on a BRZ 1200.1 So onto my questions, is this optimum setup for my vehicle? (2001 honda accord) I've heard subs forward, port forward sounds louder to the listeners ear. Any truth behind this? Do I have enough port area? Should I be running subs up port forward? Or vice versa? Any input is greatly appreciated and thanks