SPL & SQ / Fabrication

What are the benefits of using aeroports rather than a standard port? Are there any negatives? Just trying to learn a bit more before I waste my time building a new box. Thanks for the help guys

I'm looking into aero porting my box for my 15 so I can save room instead of building the box around the port. According to the Torres Box Calc 20x20x20 gives me a gross of 3.66ft3. .2ft3 sub displacement, double baffle, .01ft3 bracing (estimated) and a single 6" aero from psp, puts me at almost exactly 3 cubes at 38hz. The sub is an AA Havoc 15 on a MB Quart discus 1500.1. So now my question is, I know 12-16in2 generic rule, but the calc says my suggested port area is 28-40in2, and the 6in give me 28.26in2. Is that enough port area using an aero? its only 9.14in2 per foot. sub would face back and the port up, or sub up port back either way. I'm trying to stay within 35-3…

I have 2 sa15s and i'm designing a new box. It's a daily driver but i want it to be a very loud daily driver. i currently have a hifonics hfi1500 (pending upgrade) big 3 done, XS Power D925 on the way along with second skin coming. I'm probably going to go around 7.5-8 cubes after displacement and wondering which one will get louder to. If i go aeroport how big and long should i go. Any input is appreciated! Thanks

Ok I was looking at my trunk and if I want to make a 8 cubic foot box the only way I am going to be able to do it is make an odd shaped box ported, or do aeroports. I am just wondering how I would tune a 8 cubic foot box after displacement for 32 hz with aeroports. I am kinda new to these and I was looking at info on how to use them and I am just majorly confused.

So I've been reading a ton about aeroports and I've heard they reduce port noise and take up less space therefor reducing box size. I want to do two SA10's in 3 cubic feet tuned to 33 hz. I've been trying to use all sorts of different calculators and such trying to figure out port sizes and what not but its not coming together for me. Basically I want to know how you figure out port length and diameter as well as port displacement in the box. Also where is a good place to get these ports from. I'm going for a really nice sounding setup that can get loud if I wanna show off a tad . Any info I didn't include just ask and I'll do my best to fill in the gaps. Thanks BumpinAl…

I just got a box design confirmed by a few of my friends that it will work.. Now I do not have the space for it (doh). It is literally a few inches too big to fit in my trunk. Pretty much it is a 4 cuFt box tuned to 30hz using two removable aeroports. One removed keeps the tuning at 30hz, two in makes the tuning 44hz for comps. Now my question is what if I use pvc piping (I heard its not as loud because its not flared) and instead of having it come straight out, make a 90 degree angle as soon as it leaves the box... Anybody know what this would do for tuning? Or how to figure out with a box calculator what it may do?

I have been searching around and just can't seem to get a good enough grasp on these so hopefully somebody here can help me. I'm building a box so after the displacement of everything it will be 3cuft. I will be running two Audioque HDC310s D1 and want to tune the box to 35 hz. So my question is how many ports? How long? What diameter? I just don't want to screw this up and have port noise or inefficient ports. I was also wondering if I could just get pvc pipe from a local hardware store and use that and buy some flares online to save some money. Thanks in advance!

Over the course of a few years, I've seen many different positioning ways for kick pods. Is there one way that's the best for imaging but due to the different dashboards on vehicles, you see some positioned differently? I'm assuming it also depends what speakers are mounted in the kicks. I'm using exodus ex-anarchys for midbass + midrange. http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?products_id=538 I'm using peerless hds tweets for the highs. http://www.europe-audio.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=5233 Due to the size of my kick panel area and the relatively large mid driver, one of the drivers is going to be slightly tucked under the dash. I'm assuming it's better to "tuck"…

I will be building some custom tweeter pods for my new Morel tweeters that are coming, I was wondering if someone with a lot of experience can tell me some of the better directions to aim them. I'm looking for good staging, and good response. Any help will be much appreciated.

Just a for instance: Say you have an enclosure 40" wide x 32" long x 30" high, The port is 38.5" wide (facing forward), 6.5" in height, and 24.5" in length - tuned to approximately 34Hz (I'm assuming a driver XMax of 20mm.) The Net enclosure volume is 14.40 cubes, less driver displacement. You have the option of placing (4) 15" subs on the top baffle, or (9) 10" subs. Which do YOU choose, and why? What subs would YOU do? Roughly 1.5 cubes each for the 10's, or 3.37 for the 15's. Either way, it would be possible to run whatever amp at 1 ohm Mono - Strapped SAZ3500's, anyone? I'd be VERY interested to see/hear/speculate what the XCONS would do......

Ok, here is are 3 chioces of a mock-up for the install. I was able to raise my air tanks up high, and now I can fit a box underneath. Here are the 3 possible ways to mount the amps. None of these ways will they actually be attached to the box. I will weld some aluminum and stand them off a 0.25" or so. Mounting the amps on top, I like the most, but one amp is slightly shorter than the other... Mounting the amps on either side, and the RL-p in the middle..though, I dont like the M's facing opposite of each other.. Mounting the amps on one side, and the RL-p on the other... Taking a vote..without a poll I guess.. Got in all my wiring today, so just waiting on the soun…

can you do a 2 or 3 way active set up with this equipment? (Alpine CDA-9884, PXA-H100, KTX-H100) im doing a 2way and will try a 3 way down the road so id like to get something that will have the processing for the 3way when im ready crutchfield has that trade in (exchange) system were i can get a gift card for there site. (im going to sell them my sony hu and old ipod for a like $100). the alpine hu is currently $170. im trying to find a better deal on the PXA-H100, $150 is alittle expensive and i think i can do better. the h/u will be new w/ warranty. so im going either this route or that clarion h/u. with the mic and everything on this combo it would seem that my firs…

im making a box for 2 kenwood 12s. so far im kinda lost on how to make it but this is my design. 25x25x40 that will give me 3.5 cuft thats inner dimensions. i was thinking i put the port inside? the port would be 25x3 and it needs to be about 45 inches to make it 33hz. what dou you guys think? am i off to a good start? bad start? and input would be greatly accepted.

I had a place build me a box and i gave them website to check out the specs, i just wanna make sure everything was done properly before i go ahead and accept this box. fits perfectly in my trunk (he measured before he made it) my subs are still being manufactured... so i have time to correct this if not. any pro response would be appriciated. H 14" x W 32" x D 24" is the overall outside dimensions. im not sure what he tuned the port to. the outside of the port is 12.5"x3" if you need more measurements id be more than happy.

2 12" type r's need dimensions (height and length) finishing the box tomorrow. One single square port. Tuning box to 33-37hz, probaby about 35. Box is 37x26x13 with .75" particle. Subs are facing up.

Hi i'm starting a build, and I'm not sure if I'm going to need to upgrade my electrical system in my truck at all. I was hoping someone could tell me whether or not I should do so or not. I'm going to be installing an FI Q12" running probably an Audio Pipe 1500 in a box tuned to around 32~34 Hz. Installed in the back seat of a 1994 Ford Ranger with bone stock everything. Except a Clarion FZ409 Head unit. Which i'm still adjusting to. lol. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!

http://www.1stconnect.com/anozira/SiteTops.../alternator.htm I Tried to copy and post, but it was way too too much...Good reading though

I have a chance to pick up some 6" aluminum tube from work for cheap. Would this cause too much of a hollow sound or echo? I plan on securing them in the box. Possible having an end made that flares. Anyone tried this?

For years i have had this idea for a box design, i always asked others what they thought of the idea. Well here I am again yrs later wondering if some kid really good at box design would want to put it to the test. this is a totally sealed box design with a tube inside the box 1/4-1/2 of the box volume and same diameter as your drivers mount rim. this tube is just that a tube, a directional enforcer of the sound wave to the back of the full box. I was always told it was a stupid and fruity idea, any you kids wanna play around with it on a computer model and see what happens? maybe I am crazy but the idea to me is it would give a little more crunch on that SPL meter since …

Long story short - I have a '19 f250 underseat box with 2 10" 2.2ft tuned to 36hz. and am trying to decide on drivers for it. I have a Sundown sa10 in a 1ft box tuned to 35hz - I'm happy with the lows but it drops off in the higher frequencies quick - in songs with a lot of dynamic bass frequencies I can barely hear bass in some parts and other parts it shakes the car, so it feels "uneven" during the song. I'm looking for a setup with loudness but also smoother over a larger frequency range. I've modeled an idq10, jl 10w3 and Sa10. in 1.1ft box tuned to 36hz (below). When I change the idq10 to two drivers and double the volume (2.2ft) the graph doesn't change. S…

this is the box i decided to make for my 2 sa12's am i ready to cut it out or is there anything else i need to do? and does the cut list take the port into account? or is that a separate cut?

So I drive a f150 ext cab with a kicker cvx 15" with a 6 cube box tuned at 32hz. Right now it is powered by this POS sony 1200 2 channel. The first time I metered I did a 139.5 door open. I metered yesterday and the best I could do is a 137.2 The testing was done on a term lab. Now the things that changed: 4 ft shorter power wire than before - better bigger ground - better new rcas - better new bigger remote - I know this wont change anything just thought I'll throw it out there The only difference than before would be the temperature. It is roughly 35-45 degrees hotter outside now. Can the ambient temperature effect db?? Also my buddy metered too and he had a decrea…

This may come out the most newb question on earth. When running multiple woofers, do you need a amp that is ratted to power the RMS of each woofer or both woofers? In my case, for 2 btls, to run both off one amp do I need a 4,000RMS amp or a 2,000RMS amp? or should I just be looking at individual amps like strapping 2 sundown 1500s together? I've been looking at the sundowns and the rockford 2000 and 4000 amps.

hi guys will JBL GT5-S644 amp http://www.indiajbl.com/CarAudioDesc.aspx?ID=97 provide enough power to power up a set of Hifonics Zeus ZXi 6.5C component ? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6713_Hifonics-Zeus-ZXi-6.5C.html please reply regards simmer

Whats the best way to mount an amp on a sub box and not have an issue of the vibrations messing up the internals of the amp?