SPL & SQ / Fabrication

As most of you know i am doing an imc plan for an audio enclosure company. During my research i read that cars equipped for SPL cannot play normal music. I want to know if that is true. I need to do a a technolgy review and i want to mke sure i know the difference between systems designed for SPL vs systems designed for SQ.

Hey guys I’m building a sub box for a friend. He has a 98’ Camry and wants to fit a 15” T1 in there. My question is what’s the best sub orientation for a trunk setup. I have Sounds in my Altima but I got port and sub firing into the cabin. My friend doesn’t wanna leave his seats down so he asked to have it both firing backwards. Is subs and port back best for a trunk set up? Or is sub up port back works better? I even seen people saying sub up port to the side is really good. But I’m building the box the total usable width so I don’t wanna fire the port right against a wall. Thanks for the input as always guys.

Hey guys, this is the very start of my first diy build, I've never installed a speaker in my life before today! But- I got the co-axial 6x9's into my doors this morning no problem! However, now I have a problem. I have a component set that I was going to run the 6.5's in the back door of my Jeep Grand Cherokee, and I was going to run the tweeters up front in the dash. It just so happens the tweets don't fit in the dash. Should I try mounting them on the back doors somehow? Or a pillar? Here are a few pictures. Any ideas on where to place the tweeters would be much appreciated, I'm fine with not having them next to the 6.5's. I have never worked with fiberglass, and…

Will be built in car in this area. Slot port on drivers side, sub and port firing into cab, sealed off from trunk. This is what I've come up with, but how do I figure the 90 for the length of L port? Thanks in advance.

I will be fiberglassing an enclosure for my SA-15 into the spare tire well, but don't know if it will be happy in a sealed box. I listen mainly to hip hop and occasionally rock, so I want it to hit those low notes with some authority, but seeing as it has such a high F3 I'm not to sure if it will do that. Also seeing everyone else who picks up one of these ports it, I don't want to build a sealed enclosure to find out that it isn't what I want. I'd like to go sealed to make the install easier since it'll be my first time fiberglassing and building a box, and to save a little room and keep the design much simpler as I would like to maintain as much hatch space as I can.

Total volume = 5.333 (1 inch MDF) Port Volume = 0.64 Tune = 31hz Box dimensions Total Box = 38 x 18 x 18 Port = 3 x 16 x 23 Is this a good design for a ported 15, or two ported 12s? If not, what needs to change? also, could the subs be mounted on the top? Would this effect quality or spl?

http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/showthread.php?t=23802 Just saw these. FRIGGEN COOL! I may just have to get a circular saw for my BTL box.

Over the course of a few years, I've seen many different positioning ways for kick pods. Is there one way that's the best for imaging but due to the different dashboards on vehicles, you see some positioned differently? I'm assuming it also depends what speakers are mounted in the kicks. I'm using exodus ex-anarchys for midbass + midrange. http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?products_id=538 I'm using peerless hds tweets for the highs. http://www.europe-audio.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=5233 Due to the size of my kick panel area and the relatively large mid driver, one of the drivers is going to be slightly tucked under the dash. I'm assuming it's better to "tuck"…

We will be finishing up on my son's car soon and I have been wanting to wall-up my ride for a while now. I have a '93 T-Bird and I really have no need for the back seat. I have thought about a newer vehicle, but the old bird runs and drives great and I work very close to home. I allready have a pair of Saz-2000 amps and 150' of 1/0 welding cable. I am deciding as I write this about the SA-15 Presale. My thoughts about the wall are as follows: From a rough measurement I have 31-31.5" height 42" width 22-23" depth These measurements should give around 14.75cu' gross I would like a slot port centered with a measurement of about 29.5" high and a width of 6" thats 177" at alm…

Well i got my RE comps from the SIN group buy a while back and it has just been these past 4 weekends that i have been working on making some tweeter pods....well actually like 2hrs of work total each day. i am finally up to paint...well here is a look back. Well here is the 2 molds. im not going to go into how to do this because there is already a thread filled with Fiberglass Tutorial Links Stickied. ya i know, the mat wasnt 100% saturated...old resin doesnt like to soak. Streching the fleece glassing the fleece a hole cut i know, not a good mounting andle by any means but we alerady discussed this for like 3 pages in a thread and the RE's have swivle mounts so …

Hey guys i was just wondering do you have to break in subwoofers?

Hey all.I was just wondering if I should get longer aero ports.Right now I have 2 4" PSP aero ports and they are kinda short in my opinion.I wasnt real sure on which way to measure them so I measured them from flare to flare.I was aiming for 35hz for my tuning.The flares right now are 11" long from flare to flare.The tube part is only 5" long and the rest of the length is the flares.Here is my setup info. I have 4 10" DC Audio Level 3 m2's with level 4 upgrades and a dc 5k My box deminsions are 16" Tall x 30" Wide x 23" Deep. So should I lengthen my ports to get more port area or not? Let me know if anymore info is needed please.Thanks

Ive seen people that compete use thin pvc pipes cut in half and taping it to the walls/edges of the enclosure. Does this help create better airflow? Increase SPL?

I am going to build a sealed box for 2 dc level 3 15s and i want to know how many cubic feet should be in each chamber.

my buddy steve has a pair of audiobahn aw120q (12") what would be the optimal airspace and port tunning for them thanks chop

So I designed and built my first ported box on my own, and it does not sound like i anticipated. I believe you all can help. The box is for a single 12'' Fi X with 1.6 cuft @ 31.00 Hz. The sub has a 0.1 cuft displacement, and the Fs is 25.7 Hz. I was told to tune a little higher than the Fs. The O.D. of the box is 16 x 14.75 x 21.625 The port is 8 x 2.25 x 27.875. I used WinISD to design the port. I used 11.25 sqft of port area. I was hoping for it to be musical and be able to go from high freq. to low freq. without problems, but it bottoms out easily on the lows and makes mechanical noise on the highs even with my active cross over set to 35 Hz with a 18 DB slope. …

Hey guys I built a box for my zv5 15 and used an 8" sonotube because of the port area and how aero port don't take up as much air space as a slot. A buddy of mines saw my set up and questioned if that port was too big for my box. i came to the conclusion of using and 8" port by doing some math and finding the port area. Which is 50" a little less than the recommended port area on the sundown website. But I'm assuming that's a slot port and I've read areonports require less port area than a slot so I guessed I was in the green. But after my friend brought it up I researched and found a site that said 6" is good for a 3.5 to 4.5 box. So I'm here asking for your …

I know Trupan is lighter, but more expensive, has anyone used it and how did you like it over MDF? Does it "sound" different?

well..just got back... took second in the local class with a 144.4 outlaw on the new tl using my orion. lost to a box i built,lol, in a grandprix..two eclipse ti 12's (one blown), two memphis 1500d's, two optima's and iraggi alt..145.6. the local class was a run what u brung sorta thing...so my stock electrical system (save the big three and redtop optima) was my downfall mostly i believe as my voltage drops are huge! but at least i lost to my own enclosure..lol! and helped a friend to a 147.6 with 4 memphis pr 12's and an american bass amp...and a first in his class, 0-300 stock. time for a new system... wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Linked... http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=120381 just wanted to spread the word in case you didn't see the pics!!! NG

I am ready to buy enclosure design software, I want all the features available. I am thinking of buying Term-Pak. With Term-Pak I can later purchase Term-LAB meter as well. Term-Pak includes Term-Pro and Term-CAD 3D. Is this the best that is available? It looks like it was written in the early 90's.

I am new to the forum and I am trying to get help on something I just dont seem to be understanding. I have a Ford Explorer and I have two Lethal Injection 12's (4ohm/dvc model). I wanted to see how they sounded sealed, since I couldn't find anyone on the web. Only people asking has anyone done it. They are clean, crisp and loud being pushed with 800watts each. The sound quality is phenominal whether soft, medium or hard hitting. If I open the front doors only, its like a huge ported box turned up using old school SPL comp cd's. The pressure level is unreal for a sealed enclosure. I cannot say enough good things about these speakers. Best investment I made for not a lot …

I found a sweet deal on an older model eclipse. I am trying to get a job, but the economy sucks. I also decided, i am going to wait on the lincoln, until i prove to myself that i can treat my car nice, because i just dont trust myself enough yet (i'm clumsy). So for the mean time (and while i save up for insurance, the car and the stereo, i am toying with the idea of building a t-box for the back seat-area and into the hatch. Subs in question are (2) SSA xcon 18's, and a sundown 3500D. i am still deciding on a powermaster battery batteries, but Knu wires and fuses for sure. My goal is a low-end monster, maybe 25-28hz. i would like some of you box-gurus to throw me some po…

whats up, I've had 6 systems in 4 cars, 2 of my cars were hatchback. I had 1 sedan with a sub in the trunk for a year and a half, at that time I was'nt trying to make my system louder, now in my present car I'm on my second system and I want to get louder. but the system is in the trunk. I know no matter what I do it wont be as loud as in a hatchback. Is it possible to make a spl vehicle in a sedan. Are spl numbers as high as 150 achieveable in a trunk? My system is fairly loud now,I hit 137.8 at a local shop with my old system. but that was with 880 watts rms to a 15. I was'nt to impressed cause some guys were hitting 5-10 db more, with nearly the same wattage. I hav…

I bought a sono tube today for a port for my ssd15 that should be coming in about a week or so. The tube measures about 7.5" diameter. I was planning to make a 4 cuft box tuned to about 28hz or so. But is there any way to curve the tu e to make it a right angle? Lol... idt it will fit inside my box without a curve. And i cant get any fiberglass or resin so what should i do to the cardboard tube to make it hard enough for the port? Could i put poly on it then paint it? Or like any good ideas? And since its not quite 8" tube should i just make a 3.5 or 3 cuft box? And do i need double baffel or should single be strong enough for a ssd15? On 1000rms... please any help will b…