SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I can get my whole box to bounce up and down on the really low notes, and the woods vibrates a little more than I want. My box has no internal bracing, and it has a double baffle. 33inches wide x 32 inches deep x 12.75 inches high Now how can I strengthen this box without it taking up too much volume (minimum amount) and without having things poke out on the outside. I would use allthread, but that would cause me to have the end/bolt sticking out of the edge of the wood, which cannot happen because the box fits pretty tight. I was thinking about fiberglassing or using wooden dowels. Any suggestions/advice? Thanks!!!! Note: please don't get into arguments about strength an…

http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/showthread.php?t=23802 Just saw these. FRIGGEN COOL! I may just have to get a circular saw for my BTL box.

hey guys, i have a 18" fi q with bp power. im running it off of a 1600 rms hifonics amp. i have it in the back of a focus hatchback in a 6.3 cubic foot box tuned to 28 hz after displacement. my question is, if i take my backseat out i can build a bigger box. i dont use my backseat much so idc about that lol but say i built a 8 cubic foot box and tuned it the same, would there be any difference? if so what would the difference be besides no backseat?

I am running 2 18s walled off in my 2002 grand prix. Before I took the 18s out I was doing a 157. I am looking for a component set(I believe stock size is 5.25) so that I can hear my mids and highs over my subs. I am aiming for slightly louder next year as well. Going to try to break that 60 mark. I am not looking to do much fabrication wise so I would like to stick with stock size. I will make a cutout for a super tweeter if that is something someone recommends. I have looked and hunted around a ton, but can't really figure out where to start and what to look for. Any help would be appreciated.

Hey guys, I have been talking to a member on here about some calculations I used from BCAE1.com, and something just isnt adding up right.. here is a pic of the box I HAD DESIGNED by a member, so I trust this will work, but I just wanted to enter in the info on BCAE1 to see if they would give me about the same specs.. NOPE....>>>>>>>> This is the box I want to build... but when I put the specs into the BCAE1 site... it tells me to build a 1.3" port... what am I doing wrong here with this program????????? Height? =15 Inches Width? = 39.5 Inches Depth1? =26.5 Inches Depth2? = 26.5 Inches If the above dimensions are OUTSIDE dimensio…

We have been consistently beating Experts in the top class with unlimited resources. We of course are on a budget. We have over 45 years combined experience between the 2 of us and started out in SPL. We are competing with the current world and SBN iSQc championship vehicle. In the works is my 1988 Red S10 BlaZa to compete in the 159.9 class and win SQ at the same time. below is 10 years ago below is door panels from us in 1992

I am designing my wall in my 95 Lumina, It is a four door Sedan. The wall will go up to the front seats. I was planning on making the port on the drivers side Vertically with two 18's like so On the other hand my father said it would be better to do the port on the top or the bottom with the woofers above the port. Is this true?

Like the topic says!

So maybe I'm confused and doing this wrong but I haven't had trouble before. I've been modeling a pair of BL10's based on T/S parameters from the website. I've been told that they work great tuned low for a flat response but they seem to model great on 2.16 cu ft each at 31 Hz. Actually when I run them at 24-26Hz they kinda look like shit. Am I doing something wrong? Or does the 31Hz tune look fantastic for a build? The blue line is 2 drivers in 4.327 cubic feet at 31Hz

I know Trupan is lighter, but more expensive, has anyone used it and how did you like it over MDF? Does it "sound" different?

As most of you know i am doing an imc plan for an audio enclosure company. During my research i read that cars equipped for SPL cannot play normal music. I want to know if that is true. I need to do a a technolgy review and i want to mke sure i know the difference between systems designed for SPL vs systems designed for SQ.

Hey guys I’m building a sub box for a friend. He has a 98’ Camry and wants to fit a 15” T1 in there. My question is what’s the best sub orientation for a trunk setup. I have Sounds in my Altima but I got port and sub firing into the cabin. My friend doesn’t wanna leave his seats down so he asked to have it both firing backwards. Is subs and port back best for a trunk set up? Or is sub up port back works better? I even seen people saying sub up port to the side is really good. But I’m building the box the total usable width so I don’t wanna fire the port right against a wall. Thanks for the input as always guys.

Hey guys, this is the very start of my first diy build, I've never installed a speaker in my life before today! But- I got the co-axial 6x9's into my doors this morning no problem! However, now I have a problem. I have a component set that I was going to run the 6.5's in the back door of my Jeep Grand Cherokee, and I was going to run the tweeters up front in the dash. It just so happens the tweets don't fit in the dash. Should I try mounting them on the back doors somehow? Or a pillar? Here are a few pictures. Any ideas on where to place the tweeters would be much appreciated, I'm fine with not having them next to the 6.5's. I have never worked with fiberglass, and…

Will be built in car in this area. Slot port on drivers side, sub and port firing into cab, sealed off from trunk. This is what I've come up with, but how do I figure the 90 for the length of L port? Thanks in advance.

I will be fiberglassing an enclosure for my SA-15 into the spare tire well, but don't know if it will be happy in a sealed box. I listen mainly to hip hop and occasionally rock, so I want it to hit those low notes with some authority, but seeing as it has such a high F3 I'm not to sure if it will do that. Also seeing everyone else who picks up one of these ports it, I don't want to build a sealed enclosure to find out that it isn't what I want. I'd like to go sealed to make the install easier since it'll be my first time fiberglassing and building a box, and to save a little room and keep the design much simpler as I would like to maintain as much hatch space as I can.

Hey guys i was just wondering do you have to break in subwoofers?

So I designed and built my first ported box on my own, and it does not sound like i anticipated. I believe you all can help. The box is for a single 12'' Fi X with 1.6 cuft @ 31.00 Hz. The sub has a 0.1 cuft displacement, and the Fs is 25.7 Hz. I was told to tune a little higher than the Fs. The O.D. of the box is 16 x 14.75 x 21.625 The port is 8 x 2.25 x 27.875. I used WinISD to design the port. I used 11.25 sqft of port area. I was hoping for it to be musical and be able to go from high freq. to low freq. without problems, but it bottoms out easily on the lows and makes mechanical noise on the highs even with my active cross over set to 35 Hz with a 18 DB slope. …

Total volume = 5.333 (1 inch MDF) Port Volume = 0.64 Tune = 31hz Box dimensions Total Box = 38 x 18 x 18 Port = 3 x 16 x 23 Is this a good design for a ported 15, or two ported 12s? If not, what needs to change? also, could the subs be mounted on the top? Would this effect quality or spl?

Over the course of a few years, I've seen many different positioning ways for kick pods. Is there one way that's the best for imaging but due to the different dashboards on vehicles, you see some positioned differently? I'm assuming it also depends what speakers are mounted in the kicks. I'm using exodus ex-anarchys for midbass + midrange. http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?products_id=538 I'm using peerless hds tweets for the highs. http://www.europe-audio.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=5233 Due to the size of my kick panel area and the relatively large mid driver, one of the drivers is going to be slightly tucked under the dash. I'm assuming it's better to "tuck"…

We will be finishing up on my son's car soon and I have been wanting to wall-up my ride for a while now. I have a '93 T-Bird and I really have no need for the back seat. I have thought about a newer vehicle, but the old bird runs and drives great and I work very close to home. I allready have a pair of Saz-2000 amps and 150' of 1/0 welding cable. I am deciding as I write this about the SA-15 Presale. My thoughts about the wall are as follows: From a rough measurement I have 31-31.5" height 42" width 22-23" depth These measurements should give around 14.75cu' gross I would like a slot port centered with a measurement of about 29.5" high and a width of 6" thats 177" at alm…

Hey all.I was just wondering if I should get longer aero ports.Right now I have 2 4" PSP aero ports and they are kinda short in my opinion.I wasnt real sure on which way to measure them so I measured them from flare to flare.I was aiming for 35hz for my tuning.The flares right now are 11" long from flare to flare.The tube part is only 5" long and the rest of the length is the flares.Here is my setup info. I have 4 10" DC Audio Level 3 m2's with level 4 upgrades and a dc 5k My box deminsions are 16" Tall x 30" Wide x 23" Deep. So should I lengthen my ports to get more port area or not? Let me know if anymore info is needed please.Thanks

Ive seen people that compete use thin pvc pipes cut in half and taping it to the walls/edges of the enclosure. Does this help create better airflow? Increase SPL?

I am going to build a sealed box for 2 dc level 3 15s and i want to know how many cubic feet should be in each chamber.

well, after a long and horrid search for a sub, i finally purchased a near new eD 13Ov.2 (bought in Jan. '06). now, its time to design an enclosure. i know eD has 1 ft^3 for the recommended but i was just curious if there was anything better, as it shows 1 ft^3 for the Ov.2 and Kv.2. obviously, looking for sealed right now, not going ported YET. i want it to hit hard, hit all those double bass kick drums hard, want to get as low as possible, and decently loud. oh yea, going to be putting 400 watts @ 4 ohms to it. no plans for amp expansion right now. im looking for a cube, not a rectangle as well. i figured up on rockfordfosgate.com and a 13.75x13.75x13.75 cube (external)…

my buddy steve has a pair of audiobahn aw120q (12") what would be the optimal airspace and port tunning for them thanks chop