SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Build details : 99 Tahoe 6 zv4 15s D1 mega roll cones 2 taramps md 12k’s @ .67 ohms dual 270 alts / 135ah cmax full fiber glass cab, box sealed to cab with fiber glass, stripper pole ect ect I’m torn between a 6th and a 4th order wall with this one. I’m told the zv4 do well in a 4th but really wanted to do a 6th tuned to 25/50hz with 4 6” aero ports in the rear and square port up front The plan is loud and windy however my concern is that I’m estimating to clamp 20k or more out of the amps is my general guess (which could be wrong) and throwing that much power at the subs in a 6th will have them slappin like hell. I plan to under size the…

I found a sweet deal on an older model eclipse. I am trying to get a job, but the economy sucks. I also decided, i am going to wait on the lincoln, until i prove to myself that i can treat my car nice, because i just dont trust myself enough yet (i'm clumsy). So for the mean time (and while i save up for insurance, the car and the stereo, i am toying with the idea of building a t-box for the back seat-area and into the hatch. Subs in question are (2) SSA xcon 18's, and a sundown 3500D. i am still deciding on a powermaster battery batteries, but Knu wires and fuses for sure. My goal is a low-end monster, maybe 25-28hz. i would like some of you box-gurus to throw me some po…

Total volume = 5.333 (1 inch MDF) Port Volume = 0.64 Tune = 31hz Box dimensions Total Box = 38 x 18 x 18 Port = 3 x 16 x 23 Is this a good design for a ported 15, or two ported 12s? If not, what needs to change? also, could the subs be mounted on the top? Would this effect quality or spl?

I want to run a Fi Q 18" off an saz-1500d in my new project, a 95 eldorado. I want to put it in the trunk. My trunk isn't tall enough to fire an 18 back so it'll have to fire up. I'm getting rid of the rear 6x9's, so I was thinking sub in the middle of the box firing up and a round port on either side firing into the empty speaker holes in the back deck. Box dimensions would be 38wide, 16.75tall with double baffle and 24 deep. Winisd is saying to tune 6.5 cu ft to 28hz i need two 4" round ports 10.15" long. That's .073 cu ft each. Or .015 total, and .24 for the sub. So .39 off 6.9 cu ft, giving me a net of 6.5 cu ft. Should the ports be flush with the top of the box, or …

not sure if I should post here or the head unit processing forum so sorry if the wrong place I did a forum search with the word active with no real results I am going to be purchasing a 80prs by pioneer here pretty soon and am very intrigued on what exactly active is does anyone have any good quality sites you could link me to with good information not common rumors or otherwise so I can begin my journey of discovery I don't mean to try and be spoon fed but we all know google isn't the most credible source so I would like to get credible sources from the experts first then after I research those and learn something then I will probably come back to this thread and pick yo…

anyone with the skills necessary to design a simple ported box and looking for a lil extra cash.. please reply.. need a box design ASAP

Anyone here used plasti dip to finish a box with? If so how'd it hold up and how much area would one can cover? I was looking at some the other day at Lowe's and IIRC it said it was ok to use on wood, but MDF isn't wood.

Hey guys, I have been talking to a member on here about some calculations I used from BCAE1.com, and something just isnt adding up right.. here is a pic of the box I HAD DESIGNED by a member, so I trust this will work, but I just wanted to enter in the info on BCAE1 to see if they would give me about the same specs.. NOPE....>>>>>>>> This is the box I want to build... but when I put the specs into the BCAE1 site... it tells me to build a 1.3" port... what am I doing wrong here with this program????????? Height? =15 Inches Width? = 39.5 Inches Depth1? =26.5 Inches Depth2? = 26.5 Inches If the above dimensions are OUTSIDE dimensio…

Picked up a buddies old back not too long ago(Sir-lancelot) he previously had vinly on it and used the carpet spread glue not the spray. My plans are to repaint it glossy black for a ht box with a couple of other changes BUT the glue is so thick and isn't coming off! What would be the best way to remove it back to bare mdf? I been using a heat gun but it will take hours and hours to make a significant progress that way.

I am designing an enclosure for a Sundown Audio Z-15 (D4 wired to 2 ohms on a Sundown Audio SAZ-2000D), it will be a daily driver. I listen to a lot of chopped and screwed, r&b, old school and rap so I decided to stick with 31Hz. This may be a temporary box or a full time box depending on how it and the sub treat me. I havent build a box since August of 2008 so its been a while, my max dimensions are 16.5"H x 34"W x 21"D. Jacob told me I can make the enclosure as big as 4ft^3 and tuning anywhere from 30-35Hz and 28Hz if I wanna go lower. So right now Im sitting with a box at 3.85ft^3 @ 31hz with 60 in^2 of port area (port area range = 46-62in^2). Made of 3/4" mdf, sta…

IM abiut to dig in and start my own center console here in the next few days. Any tips and things to look out for? I want to incorporate this touch panel that ive been working on...also some clean plexi....my tablet and possibly an armrest/compartment for random stuff. Ive seen some awesome stuff on Google....shoot me some info. Thanks!!!

I have a small problem with my box, its too big now and need something smaller. We just had a baby boy last week and now I need the back of my van for the stroller so I need to build a new box that is smaller but still can use my two 10" subs and still be able to mount the 2 amps somewhere as I do not have room under my seats. Right now my box is 48" wide X 14" high X 12" deep, I would like to make a box that is taller rather then wider. I have 40" high X 14" deep to play with, the stroller is 21" wide. I was thinking of using the 40" high to make the box. I'm runing 2 X Earthquake dbx10 single 4 ohms on a Alpine MRD-M1000 @ 2 ohms so around 1000 watts rms. The box will …

Has anyone done any TL testing with a vehicle before bracing and after bracing? Mainly looking for daily driver type results. I've added sound deadening to my vehicle (2002 volvo v40), in hopes of getting rid of rattles and other annoyances. I haven't applied any treatment to the roof yet. Once I have the subwoofers playing, I'll be able to tell if / how much it needs to be deadened & braced. I'm just toying with the idea of bracing the roof with 1/8" steel strips, bracing door sheet metal, and other flexing panels across the vehicle. So not doing any stripper poles, or bolting shut doors. Just curious if it would be worth it, if there would be an audible increase in …

What are some good places to get this stuff? What am I looking for? Is there specific kinds? Are there cheaper ones and more expensive ones? How much is a good deal if I am searching on e-gay? How much will I need to make a 31x26x10.5 inch tub? How thick to I need to make it? Thanks Jerry

Just pondering ideas and wondered why I had never seen anyone use polyurethane on boxes or anything else car audio related? Seems to me like it would be a great finish on the outside, as well as good sealant for the insides of the box. Polyurethane has a very smooth glossy finish which I would think would be great for ports and such.. Which leads me to wonder why it hasn't been used in place of fiberglass in some scenarios. Does anyone have any experience with polyurethane or know why it's never used? One idea I had, was covering an enclosure with playing cards (or anything really) with adhesive spray, then going over the cards with a few layers of poly to give it a swee…

Ive never built a box that wasn't square all around so this is new to me. I have an angled back plate, so if I angle the port a long with it, the bottom of the port is shorter in length than the top. Which should make the tuning on one side of the port different then the other or how does that work? How do I create a center port like this and have the tuning and airspace I require? These are interior dimensions. I'm sure I'm over thinking this, but I want to stay as close to 13 cubes and 30hz as possible.

What I want for my doors is beyond my fabrication capabilities, so I'm considering looking for a fabricator in the chicagoland area to do them up for me. I was hoping you guys could give me an idea of what to expect it to cost, as well as throw me some names of reputable shops. I'm going to have them put 12's in my doors. I'm going to try a two way with the Dayton AMT-Pro's. I'm not opposed to working with someone from the board either! I sent a few emails to places I found on Google, but not many reviews to be seen. Thanks guys.

Feb. 7th Glen Burnie, MD Thorshammer is now a 150 trunk! :bigclap:

Got another addition to the family today. I have all winter to build these...so its time to ponder enclosure ideas. Building into 12"s. Going in the trunk of a 04' Grand Prix Thinking of allocating about 5 cubes to L port. Box can be deep as long as its not over 15 " tall. Was also thinking if a 4th order would be worth it, but its very hard to find info on successful sealed builds with these, So I'm taking a shot in the dark. Sub forward port forward may not fit across very well. It will be tight. But probably would work. They are very heavy drivers however, and would like to have space for bracing. Was maybe thinking aero port to driver side, or..

Upon further inspection, my fifteens were abused by the previous owner, and only have one functioning coil each, so i'll be replacing then much sooner than expected. I am still not completely decided on a course of action, but I thought I would ask some questions about walls before I wrote it off as too difficult. First one, I know the weight will lower mileage significantly, which isn't cool, but I live within four miles of all my main destinations, so it's not too bad. Will the weight of a wall enclosure require attention to the suspension? to be honest, i'm not entirely sure what kinds of questions to ask, so any advice from those of you experienced with such enclosur…

if you havent seen how small the trunk is on this car, motor trend stated specifically that it was about 7.1 cubes TOTAL! i cant lose the space under the floor because there is no other room for amps/batteries, and i have to leave about 10 inches from the box to the very back of the trunk for tools and etc. with this said, the question is; what is the best design and setup for maximum SPL with keeping it in daily drive limits? i worked up a few partial boxes and havent really made one that pleases me yet. the biggest so far is two seperates (against rear seat, L and R) 1.6 cubes, each for a 12". sub must be on a mild angle toward trunk lid. is this adequate for a sub li…

Let me start by showing what I've done and what I'm trying to finish with... I'm planning on hot gluing wooden dowels to the fiberglass panel up to a wood speaker ring. Then wrap a big piece of cloth around the speaker ring to the back of the fiberglass panel, then stable the cloth around the ring, and glass the cloth, etc. Only problem I'm running into is, when I wrap the cloth around the ring and fiberglass, how do I staple down the cloth, since there won't be any wood to staple into on the back of the fiberglass panel. Could I glue small strips of cardboard to the back of the fiberglass and staple into that? Sorry if I'm confusing.

Most vehicles are generally louder with a door open, window down vs the vehicle being sealed right? Depending on the db level is there an inverse effect and a sealed vehicle is louder? Or does it just depend on the frequency as an open door would make the cabin part of the enclosure (4th order?) I know there's different sanctions and different rules among classes, so certain cases I'm assuming the vehicle has to be sealed and can't have any windows/door open. So if my first theory is true, then why do people seal every air leak in their vehicle to gain dbs? Wouldn't they want places for the air to escape (like an open door, just not opened quite as much). OR would this^ b…

So here it goes I seen a thread where someone used two of these for this but I have lost it and cannot find it. I am interested in doing one of these setups in a sunfire. I have a15" soundsplinter Rlp but don't want to take up the trunk with a large enclosure. The IB setup would leave trunk space and be pretty cheap as far as the woofers go. I have a sundown 1500 SAZ to power them and know I would have to be vergil with gain settings......anyway any input is much appreciated. I have read the thread from Onebadmonte twice now and I think this should work good just looking for extra info before I order the woofers.

well, after a long and horrid search for a sub, i finally purchased a near new eD 13Ov.2 (bought in Jan. '06). now, its time to design an enclosure. i know eD has 1 ft^3 for the recommended but i was just curious if there was anything better, as it shows 1 ft^3 for the Ov.2 and Kv.2. obviously, looking for sealed right now, not going ported YET. i want it to hit hard, hit all those double bass kick drums hard, want to get as low as possible, and decently loud. oh yea, going to be putting 400 watts @ 4 ohms to it. no plans for amp expansion right now. im looking for a cube, not a rectangle as well. i figured up on rockfordfosgate.com and a 13.75x13.75x13.75 cube (external)…