SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Hey guys. Looking to do my first bandpass 4th order. The reason for this enclosure would be to push all pressure into the cabin of a car through a ski port behind the center rear seat. I understand how vented and sealed enclosures are designed, however bandpass 4ths seem to confuse me a bit. I have searched and found many sources, but I get strange or mixed answers. Please help me clear up some things. I am looking for a transient response with good output. Hoping to get the lows in my passed frequency without sacraficing too much of the 60-80hz range. I have heared that the sealed portion will mainly control the Low Pass and the ported portion will mainly control the Hig…

Is there a good rule of thumb to follow when it comes to designing a custom ported enclosure in regards to volume vs tuning frequency? Like the more volume you have the lower you want it tuned? I have been playing with design specs in winisd and based on the graphs I see in the design window, want to build a 3ft^3 box tuned to 34hz for my 12" GCON . How well would this design translate into the real world? Box will be in trunk of my '96 accord. I listen to all types of music but LOVE dub step and deep bass. Would 32hz sound better. I am looking for max spl and bass response through a wide frequency range...

Hello, I have a single BTL N2 12" D2, running on my saz 1500 at 1 Ohm. The box is 2.1 ft3 at 32 Hz, with a slot port. Port firing to the side of my truk. The car is a Toyota auris hatchback. On the TL I only scored 135.8 db sealed at the windshield, and I want higher numbers. It was at 58 Hz : I don't know why it was so high ! 138db with driver's side door open. What can I do ? I want a new box, but do I look for a bigger box, smaller box ? Do I need to have sub and port firing up ? I think I will try an higher tuning, like 34 Hz. Is it worth it ? I'm looking for suggestions. So I can ask a good box designer to work for me.

Is it possible to wire in multiple computer case ball bearing fans in my car? Is it a matter of taking the black wire and grounding it, but the red power wire, can i just wire it to my distribution block? How will i deal with the voltage? Thinking about mounting amps in a long thin enclosure with plexiglass top and have the fans suck in air on the right side and have the fans suck out air on the right side for ventilation. Maybe ill throw in some neon lights to make it look good. Is this just a pipe dream or can it be done? Any help would be appreciated. TIA

i just bought a 1990 crx and i have 2 audiopipe txx's they are crap but work for now i just need some help with the box should i have port back subs firing up ? subs firing back and port back? or any ideas? ive gutted the interior in the back i want to fiberglass it all

would applying resin to the entire outside of the box stop the wood from absorbing paint? and would it be a good way to do it? Because i feel like the wood would absorb primer almost as much as it did the paint. I'm just wondering because the last box i built took several cans of paint, (and it was only for 1 10") and even then, the paint only came out ok

ok im making my first attempt at a custom box. its for 1 sd12 in the trunk of a honda accord planing on sub facing back and ports facing up to go through the rear deck. plywood (no mdf at local building store) 3/4 inch depth 18" w 20" h 14" port (1) L 12" dia.3 if my calculations are right box is 2.21 ft3 tuned to 34.15 sub displacement is .10 so that should net me a 2.11ft3 box (damn i hate math) am i anywhere close? or even headed in the right direction? any input would be great cause right now its in a cookie cutter Q-logic box (1.5 ported and its starving for air) thanks guys and gals

Right now, Im running an audioque hdc3 12 in a 2.2 cubic ft box ported at 30 hz. Im losing alot of sound quality with this box and I was wondering if there are any specific box types (other than sealed) in which I may be able to retain a bit more quality. Im aware that the hdc3 is known for poor sound quality but Id rather not purchase a new driver at this time. I know anybody could tell me that it varies from car to car or something general like that but Im just looking for anyone with some experience who may be able to help me out. Open to any suggestions! Thanks

What’s up ladies and gentlemen of the car audio world? Today I bring to you the all inclusive Fiberglass Amp Rack 101 Lesson! Allow me to insert my shameless plug and say that if you enjoy any part of this tutorial, or learned something new, please post a comment, rank this thread, and share with your friends! Also I love when I get new subscribers on my YouTube channel! (www.youtube.com/caraudiofabrication ) Other than that let’s review what you will learn shall we? http://youtu.be/YUEUAhttGts Intro: First off I know I know, this looks like a ton of reading, and a ton of work, but it really is not, it just seems that way because I am outlining every thing I have learned …

just need to know if anyone could tell me the port lengths inside this box http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-0-FT-3-TUNED-32Hz-SLOT-VENTED-CUSTOM-MDF-SUB-ENCLOSURE-2-10-INCH-SUBS-/400326246337 id rather make the box instead of buying it lol, but if anyone could be so kind to help out thatd be great

I am getting ready to build a nice simple sealed enclosure for my 12" Xcon. While im building this, I would like to go ahead and build an amp rack. I want something fairly simple. A false floor with the amps mounted down in the floor would look nice IMO but I need help as to how to start or what to do? this rack is for my 2000 Celica and the two amps are a Kicker 10ZX350.4 and a SAZ-1500. Pics or videos or just advice would be great!

basiclly the lower i tune my box, it seems the higher DB i get on the graph. @32 =138 @26 = 139.4 @20 = 141 That can't be correct can it?

I just buy a pair of RE from the SE 10" DVC 4ohm and i wanna a ask you for your recomendation of power for does to subs. how much power i can use to make it burp with out burning them? and last, how mucho cubic feets i make the box for spl use? thanks

Ive read on some forums that peel and seal will work for sound deadening just like dynomat. I was walking through home depot yesterday and saw the roofing tar, would this work like the roadkill liquid stuff? Its alot cheaper.

I have a 12" GCON in a 2.5ft^3 enclosure tuned to 32hz. I have been lacking in response toward higher frequencies and was curious to know where the drop was happening, as it is quite a steep slope. I was playing with a tone generator this evening and from 28 to 50hz sounded amazing but as soon as I hit 53hz I lost significant dbs. There was another significant drop at 60hz. Is this due to my box tuning? Can a ported enclosure be expected to produce these frequencies with significant spl? What can I do to get these frequencies to play? Separate subs dedicated to that range? box position doesn't seem to make a difference. Vehicle is a 96 Honda accord sedan.

I am going to my 2nd comp. this weekend---state finals of WV---I will be competing in the Stock SQ class and I am nervous hoping I do well---I think I have tuned my car so much it is starting to sound unnatural---I need to leave well enough alone but if anyone here knows me knows I can't leave anything as is.----sorry I had to rant alittle.

I remember talking to shizz and a few other box builders on here and they all said "if the box is built well enough, no bracing is needed". Well is this true? I am working on a new box for my 15" - 38"w, 18"d, 16"h. I dont think I need bracing for a single 15" in that box, but I could be wrong (its a little oer 4.5 cuFt with port tuned to 32hz). I have been looking at other posts for people building their box and its either hit or miss for who does what with bracing. The one I just finished looking at is using bracing for a smaller box so once again, I am not sure. Forgot to add in - I will be putting a DC Level 5 15" in the box being powered by a 3500D

here is a pic of my trunk: I have a 12'' DC lvl 4 sub. I drive a sedan. I like to listen to a lot of pop rock // pop punk // metal music, some have fast bass drums//guitars I think I'm going to go with some type of ported box, which should I go with? a slotted, vented, ported, or what? Can anyone help me design a box for my subs? I also don't know which way to port it, towards the trunk? I'd like to have the box toward the side of the trunk, so I can still fold down the back seat and access the trunk.

Just curious on how much a shop should charge for a box if i supplied them with cut sheet and just had them supply and cut the wood? I enjoy the box building process but don't have the time,skill or equipment to do nice straight cuts. I should be able to design assemble and finish. What do you think? Around $100? Ill talk to my local shop this week but wanted to get yalls opinion.

Well my Frianken DP isnt working out to im selling my e12a, my BX1205D, and adding some cash in to see what i can come up with for an SPL driver. I can budget around $350 total. I have a USamps MD2D for power (2000w@1ohm nominal) and i want to run in Street B. This means i am restricted to two 12's or a single 15 (or x ammount of 10's but im not going to play that game). 2 12's need to be D4 or S2 and a single 15 needs to be D2 or S4. Or if its really SPL oriented it needs to be wired to 1ohm (or slightly lower) nominal in the end. Any suggestion would be much appreciated.

First-the enclosure specs for 15 inch xcons have a standard and optimal size. What are the key differences in the two? Also-I had to sell one of my amps to get through a hard time. My question is, powered by a fosgate t1500bdcp amp, should i run one sub ported at 2 ohm or both of them sealed at 1 ohm?

So, i am HOPING this is the final box design for my SPL-15 as I am going ot buy some MDF here in a couple hours. HOWEVER i just thought since this is my very first box design done by myself I would throw it up here for you'all to check out and let me know what you think. Nothing Fancy, just a simple ported box....

I'm more of an aspiring SPL guy, I don't know it all but I know a fair deal, regardless thats my personal focus. SQ is pretty much new to me, but I've got a guy with a 250 wanting a competitive SQ car a local shop is wanting to charge him out the rear in labor, I'm pretty confident I could do whatever needed to his truck. I'm just curious where to go with it. It sits now with Focal K2P doors, Focal Access rears, Alpine 4.150PDX amp, 2x12" Pioneer slims behind the rear seats powered by a PDX 600.1 and a JL 10" woofer in the center console powered by a JL 250.1 amp processed through a Kenwood DNX7100. He wants to move the K2P fronts to the rear and put focal utopia 3 ways …

I have finished the boxx for the 2x 15" WMD^2 subs w/ carbon fiber cones. wanted to have a boxx for MUSIC, not SPL the external dimentions are H- 18" W- 41.5" D- 35.5" Port was rear fireing 2x pieces 16.5" x 23.75" overall H- 16.5" W- 5" Lv- 23.75" I was shooting for 25Hz port Freq: got D@mmm Close went for a drive and it really POUNDS on the lower notes and has SMOOTH Transition between higher notes... the subs are loacted on the rear of the boxx facing Up ^^ neer the back window port fires to the rear door seperating the subs and BRACING the boxx Pics / a lil late but better than never Strapped @ 1ohm / 0.5ohm per amp DAILY

im having one hell of a time trying to cut a couple 45's, do i really need them? i have some stuff to seal the edges, its not caulk though. what do i need to brace it. gonna sand it all since theres some excess glue all over the place, and my top wont fit right cause the port walls are a little taller, so i need to sand that down. and finally, will it be a problem since one sub is unloading on the port wall? comments, suggestions?