SPL & SQ / Fabrication

i know birch is lighter, less dust. but is there any thing that makes it better then mdf? the guy building my box is pushing me to do birch only charging me 50 bucks extra for it so its not breaking the bank or anything. does it sound better? im sure it will last longer. its for a daily system not after numbers i only meter when i get new stuff to see how much of a difference it made. edit: for bad spelling

Wanting to do my next box with birch, what exactly am I going to need to look for when buying it. Thanks

It seems to me like BL (typically measured in Tesla meters) would be a good indicator of motor performance and overall subwoofer ability. With that said, I am supprised that numerous woofers that people commonly call, good strong subs have a fairly low BL in comp to other subs. Subjectively strong subs (by overall consumer babble) Image Dynamics IDMax Bl about 10 Jl Audio W7 series BL about 10 MTX 9500 series BL about 10-20 depending on model SS RL-P BL over 20 So is the SS motor twice as strong as a motor rated at 10TM, or am I completely off base. How do BL and RE interact, it seems that BL would be a constant bc its …

I've decided to start murdering my truck out except with chrome here and there. So here is my start.

I decided on a vehicle, and am just waiting for my check; In the mean time, I have some money set aside to start on the system in the new truck. So far i've decided on the equipment for the front stage (Zed and Crescendo speakers) just not how many lol. I think $1250-1500 is fair for a setup; and that's what i'll put towards the subs. (tax money will pay for the front stage ) My goal is as loud as possible below 40hz. I sold my BTL this morning, bittersweet, I only got to enjoy it for a few days before losing my truck But the new plan is a bunch of obsidians on a hifonics BRX 2400. I'm thinking four 18's, 24cubes @ 30hz. That is about half the budget there, plus…

Hello my fellow SSA dudes, I'm looking to get a blow through bandpass design for 2 18" fully loaded BTL's. My truck is a 1986 GMC S15 and i will be powering them with 2 AQ2200. (if i can fit more BTLs lets do it!) Dimensions: Front to back - 6ft (72 inches) Left to right - 4ft 10inches (58 inches) Tailgate opening - 4ft 3inches (58 inches) Up and down - 1ft 3inches (15 inches) Wheel well to wheel well - 3ft 3inches (39 inches) Thanks Dom. P.S. (To my fellow SSA dudes) - sorry again you have to see my threads about this subject.. just trying to get some help!

Couple of questions for those that have done blow-throughs. This is the back seat in my Mitsubishi crew cab. If I were to mount my amp on the back of the seat (where the sub box is in the pic), would that restrict the air flow in to the cab when the seat is up? Also, in regards to the tuning theory of building the sealed section, measuring peak and tuning the ported section accordingly - does that work with a blow through? I would have thought if the cut out is smaller than the overall cone area, then it would act as a really high tuned port?

I have a ski port with a latch/door that folds down into the trunk to allow air to flow through. If its ported through the hatch, and otherwise sealed off from the cabin, would that yield higher spl would it be a waste of time/money? Im not looking for pure spl, I just thought this might let me keep my sq but make it a little louder. My current setup is a regular 2.5 cube box with a bunch of room around the top/side to get around to the back of the box and through the ski port. Here's my idea(s)..... And sorry that it looks like a third grader made these sketches.. its all i could do with ms paint.... side view of trunk shape with ski port door open/folded down loo…

I am getting ready to do a blowthrough in my truck. The subs I am planning on using are 4 Audioque hdc3 18's. The dimensions are 50x17.5x77 inches. I will be running them off of two IA 40.1's strapped. I have built several boxes but never a blowthrough. I have heard that bandpass is the best way to go when doing a blowthrough...is this true? Anyway is there anyone who can design me an enclosure for this setup? I will pay of course just let me know.

Well heres the plan. Thats the rear window in my cab. thats the front window in the fiberglass camper shell... I plan to take out both windows and run a gasket between the two. I've heard that you use some kinda RV gasket... what is it called? As far as I know I'm going with two IXL-12s and a 2500D. Would 3/4 MDF be thick enough (Rona has no 1").. I didn't check any other stores.

Is there anyone here thats does them....

So maybe I'm confused and doing this wrong but I haven't had trouble before. I've been modeling a pair of BL10's based on T/S parameters from the website. I've been told that they work great tuned low for a flat response but they seem to model great on 2.16 cu ft each at 31 Hz. Actually when I run them at 24-26Hz they kinda look like shit. Am I doing something wrong? Or does the 31Hz tune look fantastic for a build? The blue line is 2 drivers in 4.327 cubic feet at 31Hz

I've seen a few installes at some shows where they put a board/plexie over the subs/ports. Whats the purpose of this, and is there an advantage doing this?

So I just received two of these: Trans Dapt Performance Products - Battery Trays Going to install them tonight however I'm wondering what those clips and second piece is? Also, I'm going to drill into the rear cargo area of my tahoe and bolt those trays down...How do I ensure I'm not drilling into something important? (On the bottom of the truck) Thanks

is there anyone in the Dallas area that could help me build a box?

Would a box that is 2.046 cubes after all displacements with 2 ports that are 1.875x8x22" (will be behind my back seat in my truck) be ok or sound good or give me fair spl numbers with 3 or 4 sa-8s v1 d2s or 3 or 4 orphan 8s in it running off a crescendo bc2000? Is it enough port area? Box volume? Is there anything I should change?

Well chaps I'm not 100% happpy with the SPL of my box, its 16.5cuft before displacement, and tuned onto 30hz, port area is 8.3in^2 per cuft, now recommended space for the subs is 6.5 per driver, and I presume port area should be 10^2inches per cuft, so should I line the entire inside of the box with an extra skin of MDF(flex is another issue except on the front baffle) this will reduce area, and also should I change the port for a larger one on the same tuning?? Any advice greatly appreciated lads

I need some advice on whether to go with 2 btl 15s or 2 btl 18s. I have about 16 cubic ft of space to put a box in my car. I will post pics of the car asap. I am just looking a system that hits hard hopefully around 148 to 150 dbs.

Building a box for wife's 2010 Jeep Wrangler 4 door. Leaning more towards a sealed box, but I can be convinced otherwise! Prefer SQL, then SPL. 12" GCON dual 2 ohm running off channel 5&6 on Leviathan amp. Size is not a big concern, but retaining the most possible usable space is warranted with the kids, their activities, and associated gear. I can figure out the dimensionson a sealed box, but haven't played amounted with ported dimensions yet. Outside of the build specs I have a couple of questions: Should I poly fill, or not, and if so, how much? I've read on the Jeep forums that down firing is preferred. Any special considerations going this route? Should I resi…

Info: 2-10" Alpine Type-R's in a sealed enclosure made from 3/4" MDF Volume: .882 ft^3/sub Inside dimensions: 10"x10"x15.25"/sub Outside dimensions: 11"x11"x32" Cut pieces: 2-32"x10" top & bottom 2-32"x11" front (subs will be mounted here) & back 3-10"x10" 2-sides and center divider How does this look? I assumed that 3/4" MDF is like 3/4" plywood in that the actual thickness is 1/2", or am I wrong? Thanks, Ed

Does anyone have the specs for the Fi BTL 15" subs. I am installing 2 of them for a customer, but he doesn't have any perameters for the subs. He is putting a Hifonics Brutus 2600 watt RMS d class amp on each sub. It is going to be in an old school s-10 2-door Blazer walled off right behind the front seats. Built for competition only, wanting to hit the biggest legal spl number at USAC competition. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

instead of continuing to hijack ryan's pic thread, i figured i'd start this up in here.... my opinion, based on talking to a few world champs and experience.. bracing is overrated. as is double baffles. they should only be used of the sub is extremely heavy, u have a really long, flat straight stretch or u are using vast amounts of power. for everyday box building, the box isn't going to flex enough for anyone to hear, see or notice a loss from. in most cases, if designed properly, the port can act as the bracing. for the most part, the best thing u can do for ur ported box is round off all port angles, but even then, for everyday use, it isn't necessary. to gain tenths o…

just started my new build for my fiance's brother the box will be for 2 jl 10w3v3's

Okay, so there are two ways I can go about this. In the back of a Grand Cherokee I want either 2 15s or 4 12s. I was looking at buying 2 Dual 12 aeroport boxes from Davetheboxguy. Just hooking up 4 Soundqubed HDS200s and calling it a day. OR I could design and create my own box for 2 15s (I was thinking SSA ICON or the HDS300s or perhaps the HDC 3.0) The amplifier will possibly be a BC2000d good for 2250 rms. I could step it up if need be if somebody could recommend an amp that doesn't cost much more but will give enough power. Should I go with 4 12s, or 2 15s. (Yes I know its preference but I am good with either one so help me out here) and I am going to start workin…

My brother is getting an IDQv3 12" sub. Going to be powered by an arc audio 600w amp. Down the road he's going to get another sub and another amp to match. Our budget is drained so I'm going to attempt to build the box. I wanted to go ahead and build a dual 12" ported box tuned at 30Hz. and just use one side for now. Any recommended web sites and pointers would be greatly appreciated. Some questions I have are what's the best to hold the box together. Pre Drilled hole and screws, or staples, or glue, or all the above. Round port vs. rectangular. Which direction to aim the port. Should I aim subs toward the back glass tilted slightly up.