SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Posted this in the hop since there was some vinyl talk this morn, but need some help in figuring out how to finish the vinyl off after it is stretched and glued to the front. There is no place to "staple" the vinyl to the back of the pods so how would you attach it? I have never done this before, but have some really stretchy vinyl and 3M 77 Spray adhesive (and others, but thought this was best). Any recommendations on how to finish or attach the vinyl to the backside of the tweeter pods? As a reference for size the whole is less than 2" and the edges of the pod are about a 1/4". These will be mounted in the stock sail panel locations.

i have a 96 s10 reg cab and in order to have a bigger system im forced to build a blow-thru. ive decided that my best option is to do a 4th order bandpass with the port coming through the back of my cab. i like the idea of having a single octo-port (just because i think they look effin b-a). ive done read just about everything you can find on the net and also talked to a few guys who have them....but everyone says something different....my question is how do you tune these things??? "golden ratio/theory"??? i plan on using 4 Lanzar Max Pro 15's (yes i know what your thinking) but they dont need a ton of space and power

I knew this was how it was going down, so I went with it. I hoped to get solid replies on the input to my Alpine IVA-W505 HU. I do not want to run RCAs because they tend to be nasty dirty from PC, but I just might have to. Also IDK if I kept the AUX IN RCA connector for the HU. So I tried the 3.5mm LINE OUT on the PC to the 3.5mm in jack on the IVA thats usually used in conjunction with the USB... both go to one end of the iPOD Y-cord, and the other end is the jack to plug into the POD. I get no audio from the HU from the PC in USB, AUX, or AUX + IN. The rig: I dismantled the rig I built for the HT and rebuilt it for the VAN. RS meter and Audyssey mic. VIDEO REW …

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=5091 I saw this on ROE and couldn't beleive the price! Are these like last years version of the 61i that is currently on the CDT "gold" web site. I remember old CDT eurosport, and only heard them once, I was pretty impressed but it was a 3 way. I just don't have that kind of cash ATM, and won't for a while with all the rest on my build up. Bump if anyone has experience with these? I might jump on this and let the H/U issue wait.. if these are a value anyone want to borrow me another 300 bucks so I can get 2 sets I would hate to miss out on sucha pwn sauce deal if these are in fact good?? lol I'm looking for some…

I've been searching on here and the internet about port area. I've seen anywhere from 12"/sqft to 25"/sqft. Some say a smaller PAF will act more like a sealed enclosure and tighter sounding with higher power handling. A larger PAF will act more free air with a higher output at lower frequency but will sound loose and lower power handling. I thought the box had more effect than port area does. Where I'm at now. I have a single v1 sa8 in .63 net tuned at 37hz with 17"/sqft. I'm running a sax1200 at 2ohm gained down to 600wrms (clamped). I like the sound but seems that the output is a little lower than I expected. I really have my eye on the new v2 sa8 and would like t…

when setting your gains on amps why cant you turn them all the way up. and if you have them less then half way are you still getting the rated power of the amp. say if the amp is 1000w RMS are you getting that no matter what the gains are set too..... jamie

alright guys, reason I'm wanting to get one is because here in Laredo TX there are only a hand full of people who have one car shows consist of ear-o-meter which does not do justice trying to see which meter i should purchase I'm looking at Term Lab http://www.termpro.com/store/shopexd.asp?id=25 let me know if you guys have any other options or ideas thanks in advance!

i did a 149.0db Sunday with 1 sub ported to 36Hz going to build an SPL box for it now and get over the 150.0db mark with a singel sub Jacob i am out of Flyers need more as everyone is wanting info SounsStream 15"XxX

I am thinking about building a T-line for my 3 SSA DCON 12's. Has anybody here tried it or have any experience with T-lines? If anybody wants to give a shot at helping with the design it would be great. Before you comment that "The box will be huge!" , yes I know. Thanks.

I have finished the boxx for the 2x 15" WMD^2 subs w/ carbon fiber cones. wanted to have a boxx for MUSIC, not SPL the external dimentions are H- 18" W- 41.5" D- 35.5" Port was rear fireing 2x pieces 16.5" x 23.75" overall H- 16.5" W- 5" Lv- 23.75" I was shooting for 25Hz port Freq: got D@mmm Close went for a drive and it really POUNDS on the lower notes and has SMOOTH Transition between higher notes... the subs are loacted on the rear of the boxx facing Up ^^ neer the back window port fires to the rear door seperating the subs and BRACING the boxx Pics / a lil late but better than never Strapped @ 1ohm / 0.5ohm per amp DAILY

See attached pdf for design & WinISO charts. This is the first time I've attempted this so I'm sure there's plenty wrong - looking to learn! Powered by a memphis 16-st1000d pushing 600w rms at 2 ohm. Box 2 design.pdf

I have an 08 silverado crew cab, I just bought 4 sd-2 10" shallow mounts and I need to build a 4 cubic foot ported box. I took my backseat out for now so it doesn't have to be complicated, and I am powering them with a saz2500, and if you know anyone that can build a box so I can put the seat back in that would be great too.

Vehicle : 2011 f150 Location in the vehicle: back half seat is removed Space available (Length x Width x Height): From front seat to rear wall 40" Door to door 46" floor to roof is44" Subwoofer make and model: sundown SA15 rev3 d2 Subwoofer Size: 15 Number of Subwoofers: 4 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): ? What type of music do you like?: all Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Spl but in daily driver. 80% spl 20% sq Tuning Freq (Hz): ? Volume ? additional info- Iv tries to find the …

Still looking for a new car. One that I can also have a good daily SQ setup, even have room to compete in. I am also thinking on competing in SPL next year. I wish I could make up my damn mind. '99-current Lexus GS300 maybe IS. Still researching the difference '99-current 4-runner '99-current Accord '99-current Camery "99-current Maxima All these fit into my size, power, and gas milage requirements. I have drove all but the lexus. Sometime this wekend Ill drive one. I have a potential buyer on the ATV so I will have a decent down payment. But I wm looking for the best stock stereo placement and the car with the mose room for growth. Ideas and suggestions definatl…

Probably a horse that's been beaten to death, but I've still got a couple questions. First off I guess the equipment in use would be a good place to start. Two Skar VVX V2 12s and a Synergy Audio WFO 15.1 amp wired to 1 ohm in the trunk of a cavalier. Listen to decaf, rock, and country so musicality is a factor. Only have one VVX in the car right now, so building a new box and deciding to forward fire and seal off versus rear fire is kinda where I'm at right now. I've never heard a sealed off box so don't have anything to reference to also. My gut feeling is sound quality would be better, especially on rock, it would meter well if sealed off properly, but would lose some …

what is the best wood glue to use for building boxes i plan on using the gorilla wood glue

So I've come to a realization that I need to learn to do some woodwork and tool handling(no homo). I would like to eliminate the use of odd speaker adapters for my front door speakers, especially since I'll be redoing the front stage soon. Would a 6amp jigsaw with a blade for metal be able to get the job done of cutting the sheet metal of the door skin? If so, I'd like to cut a 10x7 shape or 10x10 square out of it. I would then create a wood frame/baffle to mount speakers to? Maybe directly to the frame or creating a speaker ring that would mount to the new frame? Ideas? Would that jigsaw be enough???

Ok well I have a few questions when it comes to the proper way to decide on the amount of port are that you should use when it comes to designing ported boxes and 4th order enclosures . I have been hearing mixed " opinions " when it comes to picking the amount of port area needed . The most common way I have heard about is staying in between 12 - 16 sq inches of port per cube. Which in my opinion is not a very accurate way to design an enclosure . The other way that have been told is that you adjust your port area according to the xmax or linear max on your woofer. Which sounds to be a more accurate way in to better suit a build. So if anyone knows the actual proper way t…

4 IA 187s and two AQ 1200's or 8 Hifonics hifi12d4 and two AQ 1200s, this will be a old car(chevy celebrity type ) and walled. this will be my daily drive

i just got paid, and have 70 dollars to spend, so which is a good palm sander, and where to find it thanks

What is the most accurate sub box calculator tuning and everything

Hi guys, out of the 18 years and over 10 systems I have only had a ported box once. Well I have decided to give it a try and am going to build my own ported enclosure. I can say there are a few things iI need to know. I am building an enclosure for a 15" sub for the trunk of a 2001 pontiac grand prix gtp, so height can't be over 16". I want the enclosure to work for my current sub but be able to put the subwoofer im going to buy later in it. I plan to buy either a DD 2515, DC level 3 or 4, or SSA xcon. For now i have an Alpine mrd-m1005 amp. I am going to get a bigger amp later as well because i like to over power subs a bit so i can get loud for local drags and so I coa…

Pardon the dust, under construction Hey guys! Have you ever seen panels in installs like this and wondered how in the world did they get those shapes? Well with a series of router tips and tricks, you can start with literally any shape drawn on paper (shown on left), and transform it into a perfectly fabricated wooden template that you can then copy several times into future installs. (Shown on right). Take your installs to the next level with these shaped panels that you can use for hiding amps and crossovers, trimming around speakers, making amazing port shapes, the possibilities are endless! Let's get down to the nitty gritty: What you Need: Safety First! Make sure…

i still dont understand how they work and what the diff is... you got these kind with a bunch of little wires and a crapload of windings and youve got these: with a little bit of windings and thicker wire. is one better than the other? i dont understand.

i drive a 2000 4 dr honda accord. i was just wondering like who has built what type of enclosure, and what they have tuned it to to get best LSQ reults. currently i have a small 800Wrms amp on the way. subs are still under debate. what would pound hard in my car and what would you reccoment for a sub, under the 400 dollar price range.i am on a budget.