SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I'm down for a few day for recovery from a surgery. So I'm brainstorming about my front stage. 99 2dr blazer is the vehicle. Right now I'm thinking about loading my pillars will multiple full range drivers. Not really looking for super ess que but half assed decent imaging and response. The sub stage is going to be decently loud so I need loud up front. Right now, I'm looking at 3-4 of these per pillar. I really like the look of these too. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-352 Possibly four of these. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=290-226 Then I like the idea of 6 of these in each pillar but I need to make su…

Hey guys i was just wondering do you have to break in subwoofers?

So, i am going to need to coat the entire inside of my upcoming project in resin.. I have a few questions... 1- Any type of resin and hardener i should use specifically for this or any at Lowes for fiberglassing fine? 2- How many coats or how thick should i make it? 16 cubes GROSS 7kw of power with All-thread bracing. 3- Is it ok if i coat the entire inside with resin, then after it cures, drill out all the holes i need to run my allthread? OR should i already run all-thread and have it braced before coating with resin?

Hello. I've got a BTL 12, the new model, with the spl gap, short coil and cooling and I'm looking for some ideas on a box volume I can use for burps and keep it mechanically safe. I had an old 1.3cf box laying around so I used that for some quick testing. The highest score with all testing was only 147dB on 3600w clamped watts. The actual power to the woofer will be a bit over 4000w once I get good battery. The goal is to score 150dB out of this single 12 and the small box is 3dB short. This is how the 1.3cf box looked at the end of the testing: I also tried all combinations of sub / port facing except both of them back. A max volume suggestion would be useful as I …

Was wondering if anyone on here could offer me a reaonable design for a btl 18 for free. I have a guy at the car audio forums that has always done mine for a small fee (they are reasonable). BTL 18 Tuned to ~30 hz. ~ 5-6 feet ^3 48 inches wide... and max of 24 inches high.

I have four massive p3000 amp. ( rated. 2660 @ 4ohms) I what to istall 4 btl 18s. Need the opt. Enclosue size.(ported ) sq is important. Spl would be nice. I would like to use 5 cube. Per,but have 10 cubes per.

2 BTL 12's. The outside dims of the box are 17" tall x 24.75" deep x 33.5 wide. I am going to use a 8"pvc pipe and make my own flares but need help on length for 33htz tuning. Also with it being an 8 inch pipe do I have to have 8 inches from the back of the box to the end of the pipe? Also how long should the pipe be to be 33htz? Please help me with this.

I'm considering building a bandpass box for my BTL, has anyone here ever heard a BTL in any of these boxes I listed below? If yes, how did it sound? I currently have a box built to BTL specs but tuned to 34hz.. Most people would be impressed by how it sounded and by how loud it got; but I would like it to get louder. 4th order: rear chamber sealed. front chamber ported. Best suited to subs that work best in sealed boxes. 6th order: rear chamber ported. front chamber ported. Best suited to subs that work best in ported boxes. Dual-bass-Reflex: rear chamber ported. front chamber ported. front and rear chamber connected by a third port. Best suited to subs that work best in …

So I'm good at building enclosures.....calculating ported enclosures? Not so much. I've just bought a new tow vehicle and using some budget equipment to put a nice setup in it. These are new items I've had laying around to put into a project car I'm building that won't be finished for a while. Vehicle : 2004 Escalade ESV (Suburban sized one) Location in the vehicle: Rear hatch, against the 3rd row. Want to keep some cargo room Space available (Length x Width x Height): 46" wide is set. 16" deep is set. The height is my variable. 20" is maximum. All dimensions are internal. Subwoofer make and model: Subwoofers are JBL GTO 4 ohm models Subwoofer Size: 12" …

I Currently have 2 12" Memphis Audio PR's in a dual ported box powered by a Cadence ZRS-8 with stock electrical. The system is in a 2011 Mazda 3 Sedan. I have been wanting to play around with new subs and I got a crazy good deal on a single 12" Kicker CVR CompVR Series sub with a sealed box that fits two 12" subs with their own chamber. When I ask this question, keep in mind that I want to keep my stock electrical. I am trying to find either a single or two subs that will get pretty loud off stock electrical. I want something that will get loud and I'm leaning more towards SPL. Should I build a custom box for the single 12" or should I sell the sub and the box and use t…

In this weeks episode I review how you can create a false wall in order to further complete an install. Using a false wall can allow you to utilize an enclosure that is simple, but yet obtain a finished product that looks very custom and integrated within the vehicle. I would love to know what you think! Thanks for taking the time to watch! (Click the picture for the video) ~Mark

Okay. So I've got very limited trunk space. And a small-ish. Budget. I'm hoping for someone to help me with some sort of box design for an FI Q 10, in a ported box. Max dimensions being 30" Wide, 14" High, and 17" Deep. Already have an Amp picked out too that i'm gonna buy from a buddy for good.

Ok, now, i need someone to DESIGN me a sub enclosure for a FI BTL 15" Ported ~34 hz cant be more than 16.5 in tall, 34 in wide, 18 in deep..... shouldnt need to get that big now.... I love google sketchup, so if someone whipped it up on there, then i would be forever gratefull thanks for anything...

As the title states I'm going to replace my whole setup I need help with choosing what to do the new setup will consist of 2 Ssa icon 12's a dc audio 2k and I do not know what size I should have the enclosure at for the subs and only thing that will make it a bit hard for me would be the tuning. I was think tuning to 30hz but that might be stupid to tune it that low for those subs. Thank you for all that help and I don't mind reading links to help me out

Soo pretty much, I've been wanting to do a more compact sub setup for quite some time, and since its spring time, I needed a nice little project to keep me busy! The design I came up with is pretty simple in concept... basically its going to be a fiberglass ported tube enclosure simular to a bazooka tube. I figured these enclosures can offer me a more compact enclosure than a big box, yet still be ported. Its going to be constucted using a 10" in diameter by 48"cardboard tube used for concrete molding (simular to a sono tube). I'd cut it to the length I need to give me my airspace, create an MDF baffel for the sub to mount on to, use a smaller tube to form the port. …

got my iCONs in, and im starting a few enclosures.. problem is, im not sure what kind of airspace is optimal.. id rather build 1 or 2 boxes and play with the tuning rather then ad to my collection of T&E boxes.. hoop of the trunk is unbelievably small, so the box might be split into 2 boxes.. ive got a few solid ideas for boxes that have measured out to 2.5 each sub.. should i be shooting for over 3.0??? from DevilDriver's review it seems the subs like the biggest possible enclosure.. il post pics in a few

Lately I've been pretty frustrated with my sub stage in my vehicle. I am not any kind of box designer but I can and have built my own from others blueprints. I've always helped my friend with systems in his 08 Grand Prix. I have installed a lot of my enclosures in his vehicle with good results. Then I put the same boxes in my vehicle and get something totally different. Every vehicle is different I understand this. We both have trunk cars. Mine is an 11' Malibu. He clearly has a slightly bigger trunk than I do. What I'm looking for is a better low end. The boxes I've used have all been tuned around 30-32ish. What do I need to take into consideration to build a box to ex…

I am using CAD right now to try to make a 3d design of my box. My question is if it is an 8 cu ft. box before displacement with external aeroports, what kind of internal bracing am I going to need even with a double baffle? This is getting a fully loaded 18" BTL by the way, with a Sundown 3000d. If I use 3/4" MDF will I have a problem with too much flexing? Also one question this is my first build, first system and I want to know what your guys preference is on MDF from different suppliers. All I really have around here is a Menards and I work there so I can get a small discount on it there. I just wondered what you guys think of the quality of Menard's MDF compared to ot…

I am trying to come up with a good design for a ported box for a 18" BTL. Now it is going to be in my trunk but I am going to try to get a full 8 cubic feet. It can be 41" wide, 29 inches deep, and the tallest it can be is 18.5" and that is exactly right size for a 18" BTL. The only problem I have had is that I know it is going to need some kind of bracing and since I have no idea how to go about that I don't know how to calculate in the displacement of the extra bracing, and I don't know how to figuire out how big I will have to make my port to be at about 30hz. If it is under 8 which I'm sure it probably will be I'm fine with that I guess, but I need some help on how to…

Just spent the past hour trying to understand the entire deal with box specs and this is what I got Didn't really do any displacement math which is why I put in the Tuning Freq. at 26 Figured after all displacements highest it'd be would be at highest around 35 Hz Anyone see any design flaws with this? The Box is going in a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and I listen to Rock/Rap but more so Rap music.

** Coles notes: 12" BTL (D2, loaded, Daily). Maximum Dimensions: 31" x 16" x 18". Want to hit the lows better. ** What is required to build a box specifically for lows. Larger box? More/less port area?.........etc. I had a BL last year, and have "upgraded" to a BTL this year. I have two boxes that were used with the BL, one built by Thumper and another I did myself. The PTS box is tuned to 32, I think mine might be tuned lower, not really sure. Used subwoofertools.com back in the day, and it told me it was 32Hz after displacement. It's 27" x 16" x 18" with port 14.5" x 2.5" x ~33". 3/4 MDF. When I put those dimension in RE Calculator it comes up with 29.81Hz (before dis…

ok so i've got an sp4 15 on the way. its going in the trunk of a 94 lincoln mark 8. i've built a box already thats a tight fit to get into the trunk and its only 3.5ft^3 tuned at 33hz. ive got plenty of trunkspace left the problem is getting anything bigger thru the trunk opening. so im coming to you guys for help/tips for building in the trunk. so what would be the easiest was to assemble in the trunk?

Ok, so i have the planned dimensions and i need help calculating the port and seeing if this box is ok? Two Alpine type r 12's will go into it facing towards the roof of the vehicle. Length (Depth) = 26" Width = 37" Height = 13" So what should the port calculate to? According to the re box calc. they say the port length is 34.75". Is this correct? I'm usin .75" MDF of course.

I'm starting a box for my new 12 this weekend. Using a 6" aero for this one. Most of my boxes in the past have been sealed or slot port. Was shooting for 1.75cf3 after displacements and a tune in the low 30's. I'm limited in depth (~14") but had plenty of width (~56"). I came up with this design. It's long and shallow, similar to a truck box I built a long time ago albeit smaller. Concerns: The length to height/depth ratio. Would it matter? The distance between the sub and port inlet. It is currently ~4" from port to the closest edge of the sub tuned at 30hz. I can move it in more, each 2" decrease in length equates to about 1hz. Just concerned about unloading. Maybe it w…

I want to build a sealed box behind the back seat of my 08 Dakota Crew Cab. There is VERY little space back there, to the point that to get my airspace, I need to get rid of the back wall of the box. My idea is to use some damplifier pro or spectru sludge on the cab wall to create the back wall of the enclosure. Am I on the right track? Or is there a better way to do this. This is the only location I can use, due to restrictions from my wife. Thanks Rob