SPL & SQ / Fabrication

So I am designing a new enclosure and this one will have a center port. I have concerns with my port width when it reaches the rear of the enclosure. This is for 2-Zcon 12's,SAZ3500 power,currently box will be at a net volume roughly 7.8 cubes tuned at 32 the distance from the port wall to the flare is 4.33 inches if you cant read the photo Since it is in the center do I need to maintain the same width(in my case 6.5inches)? Is there a rule of thumb for this? Here is a pic of what I currently have designed.

My setup is 2 dd3512e sub and port facing the back. The port is in the center between the 2 sub. I seen some setup with 2 12's with subs and port facing back but the port is towards one end of the box and not the center. Is there any benefit to having the port on one end instead on the center, this would be in a trunk setup? Which would be louder?

Who has any experience with CF? such as: http://www.fibreglast.com/category.php?cat...src=HelpfulProd

I was cleaning out my room, and found some literature that came with my DLS components. I didn't notice this bit of info when I was doing the install. But DLS recommends a chamfered baffle for the midbass. I simply made 1/2" birch rings with no chamfer. My question is, will I notice a big difference in midbass response by going the chamfered route? The rings are fairly thin being only 1/2", I don't think the backwaves are really hitting it. But I want to get some second opinions before I take my doors apart to redo the rings. http://www.dls.se/files/701/2/baffle_installation.pdf Pics of my baffles: passenger side driver side

In the process of designing a box for the 15 Loaded BTL. Can I design an "L" slot port box to have a tuning freq of approx 40hz for comps...and then just put 1.5" thich MDF along one side of the port? Since calc's tell me that will bring me down to 32hz. So the port will be approx 6.5 inches wide for a 40hz tune and 5 inches wide for a 32hz. I'm just wondering because only the last 14inches or so will be 5 inches...the other 14ish inches (inside the box) will still be 6.5 inches. Will this screw with tuning...and will this raise or lower my ACTUAL tuning freq?

Im getting some nice port noise with those 3" 90* PVC elbows in the SE enclosure. I was wandering if it would be worth it to swap out the face and put in a slot port instead of thse 2 3" Aeros ? If so, would anybody be willing to help me with the port. Only things i suck at are ports and alarms external is 29(w)x17(h)x9(d) Id like to do an L style, but if thats not possible labrynth is just fine. SE depth is 6 3/4" Tuning: low 30's ( if possible)

I have loved my 18's since I got them, but due to a baby being on the way, I have to get rid of the 150 pound 12 cu.ft monster in the back of my little XUV. I'm replacing them with......(drum roll please)...... A pair of Critical Mass UL 12's! I hope to god that they fit the bill for me output and soundwise.

I recently changed the enclosure of my sub. Nothing else has changed : same electrical, same amp,... The old one was too small, and badly tuned (too high). The new one is really a good one. When I made the change, I was not so happy with it. And after a few days I start to like it more and more! Could it be that the sub need to adapt to its enclosure for some time before playing as it should ? Maybe I am just getting used to it! What do you think about that?

My guages in my car are digital LCD. They are a teal color now and I'd like to change them to green. Can this be accomplished?

Wassup fellas I am wondering if I tune my port to 33 hz could I change the tuning of it without switching out the port? Like adding something? I would like to keep it at 33 hz when doing rap demos and daily bumping but then when I use it for work I listen to rock cause of my boss cause he hates rap so tune around 38 hz or maybe a tad higher. I have an hdc3 18 and 8 cubes or so to build.

I bought a x12 and have made the reccomended ported box for it. I def sounds amazing when the windows are down in my truck it gets really low. But its not really as loud as i want and most of my music just dosnt go that low.. The other thing is i have a pair of harrison soundlab external subsonic filters... And a pair of right angle adapters from radioshack.. Could these be lowering the signal to the amp and decreasing my out put? Any help would be great. Iv heard you can fill the box a little to raise the tuning frequency.. Idk the sf are at 30hzbtw

I've got one of the few remaining 18" Inhumans that I desperately want to hook up and listen too before I get rid of it. I designed up a quick box in WinISD and came up with these numbers. How do they look to everyone? 8ft^3 tuned to 34Hz 98" of port, 20.31" in length Nothin special, just a good daily driver box.

Internal dimensions: 15" d 34" w 10" h Port: 10" h 3" w 30" l Sub displacement .1 cuft Subs up, port sideways 2.1cuft after sub and port displacement Leaving .1 for 45s, so 2 cubes net Tuning guesstimate: 33-34 Hz Side note: I would like to figure out how to calculate neccesary port area by the parameters of the sub, not by the 12-16 square inches per cuft rule, might use areos if someone has a suggestion.

Powerbass xs15dv2 4.834gross volume 3.997net volume 63.375 sq inches of port (3h x 21.125w) 22.854 port lenght tuned to 38hz powered by orion 1200d @ 1ohm Are my calculations correct? If so do you think that is enough port area? 4.834gross 4.459net 42.245 sq inches of port (2h x 21.125w) 15.344 porth lenght tuned to 35hz Which one would you chose?

You can see what Josh (funny guy ) drew up, and then you can see how I tried to tie it all together so all I need to do is lay out the components just like a picture. I used circles and boxes to save time I think the only thing I am unsure of are the woofer -'s and the mid +'s (keep the reversed polarity + (2x) driver in the tower) ... I don't know where I'm supposed to tie them into the neg path - don't know if I have it close to being correct or not, as I just threw them in there. I could always move them right to the main neg lead coming from the binding post if it makes a difference.

i had an idea similar to these enclosures for my next project and i was wondering is there any downside to having one built like this?

i've got a sealed box for my rl-p's. its built into the well of my car and is a major, major pain in the ass to take out of the car, or i would just pull it out and feel for air moving at the joints. when i push one of the speakers in, the other will push out, and very, very slowly settle back. is this normal or does that mean there is a leak somewhere?

hey guys i'll follow mklett's pattern Vehicle : 2012 chevy cruze Location in the vehicle: trunk Space available (Length x Width x Height): 36x16x24 Subwoofer make and model: american bass xfl Subwoofer Size: 10 Number of Subwoofers: 2 or 3 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): slot or aero What type of music do you like?: mostly hip hop/rap but also rock Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: everyday Tuning Freq (Hz): 33-35 Volume :??? Questions: i'm trying to figure out the best possible orientation, size, port, and tuning for this car. i have a prefab ported box for 2 tens that i've had in the car for 2 weeks and have played it firing into car with it sealed off using…

Time for a new design for my extended cab S10...2 sundown SA 12's going in, which way should the subs and port face, I have not seen much info on enclosures for these small trucks and I would like to have a plan before I start the project........I would appreciate any help

I think I got my first box design down, hope to have you guys double check it all for me....... tunning will be at 35 hz. port area is 62 sqaure inches box volume is 4.29 ( havn't figured out what the 45's and braceing will displace) I just used 4 cubes for all my math. useing 3/4" mdf and will use double baffle. port opening will measure 15.5" W X 4" H , useing the bottom of the enclosure as the bottom of the port, ported to the side. port length will be 27.5" long the port will fire toward a vertical mdf wall on the drivers side. sub will fire up, and i will plan on having it inverted, for now. it will work out that the sub will be almost centered in the vehicle. kee…

I built my box today it is around 1.75cuft and I went ahead and sealed it. I took a old circle port out of a old box I bought and it is adjustable! I was like holy crap.. anyways I believe it is a 4" port and it adjusts from I believe 4 inches in length to around 10-12 inches. What would the length of the tubing need to be for lets say.. 30-32hz?

Any thing I should know or be wary of? 5 1/2" blade? 7 1/2"? Corded? Cordless?

who's going, and JW why registration is free? Who's putting up trophie money? Keep me posted. Sounds interesting

I don't really want to order this stuff and have to wait for it so i wonder if i be alright using some things just lyin around the house? The space i got to fill isn't too large really. IT's about 3-4" wide and about 8" tall and the deeper the better. I was thinkin about stuffing all kinds of shirts that i dont wear anymore in there.. I'm sealing a wall and i gots to seal around a window and i'm not spraying foam on my glass so thick material is the only option. You think shirts or blanket sheets will work fine?.... then i'll just spray foam on this to complete the seal...

I've been steadily trying to find the best way to mount ordinary PVC pipe in a box. I looked at lowes and found these "Closet Flanges". They Fit on the inside or outside of the PVC (depending on size, in my case, the inside of a 4" pvc). The flanges have a, well.. flange on the outside with 4 screw holes that could be used for mounting. I think this would work perfectly, except when the flange is inserted into the pipe, it's about 1/8" thick and reduces the diamater of the end of the pipe to about 3.75". Is this enough to alter the affects of the port? The decrease in diameter is only about 1-1.5" long, then it flares back out to 4". What are you guys opinion? Here's a li…