SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I got my RL-p 15 metered in a ported box running it with about 800 watts and I hit 146.3, which is above my goal but not enoguh for me competition wise. So I was thinking about getting 4 or 5 Assasin 8's for competition. Only problem is that I have a ED 9.1 amp, and it only goes to 1 ohm, the speaekrs would be wired parallel and that would give them .8 ohms. I'm guessing it would be ok to run this on that amp because the wires and everything would bring it to a grand total of over 1 ohm right? Also, would five 8's be overkill? Should I just stick with 4 instead? Thanks alot.

From what I have read here the port area per square foot rule is just a myth, port area has nothing to do with the size of the box. I tried searching more and all I could find was that port area is determined by the parameters of the sub, tuning, and amount of power. So I am curious what formula is used to actually calculate how much port area you need? I am currently designing a new enclosure for my 15" Fi SP4 which is run off an AQ3500. My old box was designed to fit in a trunk but now I have a Tahoe so size is not as big of a restriction for the new box. It was 3.83cuFt @32.25Hz (after displacement). I like the low end but actually would like to try tuning lower. I …

I recently found my Visonik 12" woofer and i decided to build a box for it. I have ~$120 for supplies so nothing elaborate. My plan is a little under 4cuft (before displacement) tuned at ~26hz. I would like to use aero ports. The woofer is rated at 250rms, but handled 400rms from my RF200.2 like a champ. I have ~140wrms of clean power to play with, from my HT amp (Samsung HT in a box, very nice system for $220, on sale) I am switching it out for the current woofer, the 8" that is currently in the corner. My parents always turn the sub level way down when they watch movies (frustrating lol) So its mostly for my chopped and screwed music, that i can't fit on my iPod shuffle…

Well im starting to gather all the parts to build an active 3way setup. I know what im getting into and i know its probably far more complicated than im expecting but i love the challenge. I plan to build pods for the midbass and midrange. The tweeters i plan to mold into the factory location on the door pillar say it stages correctly in that location. Im welcome to all suggestions when it comes speaker choice as im still considering lots of options. I tend to like a smoother highend with alot of punch in the midrange if thats of any help. As for budget ill put a max per driver price beside the speaker type. Im not saying these are for sure max but its what im tr…

Ok i need some help.....i am doing a business and marketing plan(IMC) for a car audio company(mostly enclosures) and when i went to a nameless place(audio store here) i asked the guy what the difference is between ported and sealed box He said nothing....now i know there is a difference i just not sure the reasons...i need to be able to explain it in my presentation in november.. if you use acrynoms or intials(spl or rms) please tell me what they mean so i can use them. i am expected to know all about whatever i present.

I picked up a tdx 15 dual voice coil 2 ohm for $100 in a pre-fab box. 1200 watts rms. Hooked it up and found out the box is broke. It sounded like Donald Duck getting kicked in the nads. I would like to build an spl box for it but after googling my fingers off I can't seem to find any box spec recommendations. I was hoping to find a simple slot port build or something because I am still a noob and don't quite understand the Qs's and the other mysterious letter number references on the tech sheets Any ideas or opinions would be appreciated. I prefer spl over sq.

Vehicle : 1973 VW Beetle Location in the vehicle: Rear cargo area; sub pointed up Space available (Length x Width x Height): 35" length x 12" depth x 12-15" height Subwoofer make and model: Fi SSD Subwoofer Size: 10 Number of Subwoofers: 1 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): Rectangle w/ 45's What type of music do you like?: EDM, RAP, Rock, Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Everyday high sq Tuning Freq (Hz): 35 - 38hz? Volume : 1 - 1.5? Questions: So I have modeled up a few different enclosure in win isd but I just want some confirmation as to what you guys think will work best for my listening needs. From what I have read on this forum that I believe Fi recom…

What i want is the box to be smooth, without being able to see the screws so i can paint the box and have it look very smooth. I have to ways im thinking of going about this. 1- This is the one i feel as the better of the two....sink the screws a little further into the mdf and put a filler then sand it smooth or 2- After the box glue has dried take the screw out then use a filler and sand? Is there any reason for the screws to stay in the wood or can i take them back out? Thanks, Jack3d

i had a thread a while ago that had a download to a box tuning calculator that i made. i've since upgraded it hardcore and would like to repost it. i cant edit my original post in the other thread which is why i'm making a new one. also since i cant edit my original post to update it, i'm linking it to SMD where the original thread is to download from. that way i can update that one which will in turn update the link to the download from here and still allow comments and questions on this forum (i hope that's all ok). if a mod would like, the other thread can be deleted if they find it to prevent any confusion. that one is pretty old tho, so probably buried tho i found it…

I have an old 2 channel amp that i wAnt to put in my truck. Should it go on tye front door 6.5s or on the back door 6.5s? My sub is in the back seat also... But what would sound better? Iv been told the back would sound better... But i feel the front would. What do you guys think? They are the kicker ds series 6.5s and its like a 40rms amp or so per channel... Coment please!

instead of continuing to hijack ryan's pic thread, i figured i'd start this up in here.... my opinion, based on talking to a few world champs and experience.. bracing is overrated. as is double baffles. they should only be used of the sub is extremely heavy, u have a really long, flat straight stretch or u are using vast amounts of power. for everyday box building, the box isn't going to flex enough for anyone to hear, see or notice a loss from. in most cases, if designed properly, the port can act as the bracing. for the most part, the best thing u can do for ur ported box is round off all port angles, but even then, for everyday use, it isn't necessary. to gain tenths o…

Hey gusy, im about to start the box build for my sa-12 and im just looking for a little help since its going to be my first real box build. I've came up with a design, but i used the RE box calculator to do so,which i've heard isn't all the accurate, so i was just wondering if someone could check the numbers for me. Heres the dimensions- 24" wide by 14" tall by 15" deep. the port is 2" wide with a length of 16". RE says that the box is 1.72 cubes at 32.8hz with 25in of port. Anybody willing to check this for me? Thanks

I've been trying super hard to get my box calculations right. Can someone confirm these #'s?? I really hope I'm on the money. in advance. Box is 32" tall, 15" deep, and 18" wide. Port is 16.5" tall (internal), 2.25" wide, and 40" long. Looking to be 31-32hz, 2.25cu.ft. after sub and port displacement. :fingers crossed:

I just buy a pair of RE from the SE 10" DVC 4ohm and i wanna a ask you for your recomendation of power for does to subs. how much power i can use to make it burp with out burning them? and last, how mucho cubic feets i make the box for spl use? thanks

I'm going to be building a second enclosure for my Fi Bl 15. For my first enclosure I made it out of Birch Plywood so what I was wondering was if Cherry, walnut or poplar would be good for a box?

What do you guys think of this design? The huge ported section will be roughly 50 width, 36 Height, and 36 length all the way up to the back of my front seats. The sealed section in the trunk will have roughly 1.5-2 cubes per sub with the ported having over 30 cubes hopefully Give me your opinions of this design please Thanks http://img573.imageshack.us/img573/9628/boxdesign3.png http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/570/boxdesign.png http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/7765/boxdesign2.png does that make sense?

I would like help with a design of a box for a Sundown Audio SA 12" sub woofer , that is 12" at the bottom, 8" at the top 17" tall and 30" long, with the sub woofer mounted on the slanted side. I would like it to be ported, and tuned to 32 HZ. Again, 3/4" MDF 12" bottom 8" top 17" tall 30" long Tuned to 32 HZ Sub-woofer mounted on slanted side Truck-box style.

Kinda sad. Been looking to get into competing but all the organizations I have looked @(dBDrag, USACi, IASCA, and MECA) don't have comps around the Indiana area. All are in Ohio and what not. I don't mind traveling a state or so but why no shows in IN?

Okay this year I compete in DB Drag Street B, and SLAP S2. Next year I want to do street max 1-2 in DB Drag and SS1 in SLAP I currently have 2 vfl 150.1s I like them, but they just arent doing it for me on 14v. I want to get new amps in a few weeks, and hopefully use them next year too. I have a few in my mind I have been thinking of, but I wanted to see if anyone could chime in with some good, strong amps at 14v. Thanks.

I drive a 2005 Ford Taurus, currently with 2 Kicker Comp 12s, which were my first install. I've been looking to upgrade to (significantly) more powerful drivers for a while now and I've recently taken on the job of research. I talked to a local Audiophile Loudspeaker company and he recommended TC Sounds LMS-R 12s. After reading reviews, I've noticed that their performance, while good, can be hit or miss. I did some more research and stumbled upon the AA Havoc 12s. These interested me more because of the (almost) 100% positive reviews and thumbs ups for SPL AND SQ. I'm looking to run these off of a Kicker ZX2500.1, giving them the 1250 RMS they're rated for (not overpower…

I have read alot on building ported boxes in the past couple of days but here is what i was planning on.... Putting two kicker 12" L7's in a ported box. Here is my ? When porting the box is it more efficent to put one port out the middle where both chambers connect to, or to port each individual enclosure on either side/ or in the middle just separated!? If using just one port is there a need to separated the two chambers before the port?? THanks!@

I used the SSA enclosure tool and just want to check and see if everything seems right This is going in a 99 civic sedan, SDC2.5 12". I have all this calculated for a net vol. of 2cuft and a gross of 2.65.....will that be good? Any recommendations for a better box for this sub? Outside dimensions: width=30 depth=15.5 height=14.5 For the port, tuned to 38Hz: width=2.5 height=13 L shaped so... L1=12.25 L2=1.5 and the enclosure tool says total port length is 18.25...is it calculating straight down the center? Area=32.5 displacement=602.875 in^3 or ~.35 cuft I'm really not too sure about the port.....also if i were to use winISD, what sub should i use for calculations or…

I am in need of a site or location to get OEM fabric. Not having any luck with Yahoo or google. I not only need the same fabric my seats are made of but I need quite a large bit of OEM vinal also. The local dealership here wanted too much, nad I had to order in bulk on top of that. 2002 Chevy Silverado Tan interior Any help would be appritiated.

i was going to sound dead my box in and out with some raammat i bought ... does it really help all that much? i was going to coat the inside and outside ... is that beneficial or can I get away with just doing the inside?