SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I am going the wall route and am in the designing stages to make sure everything is going to fit. The issue I am having is with my ports... I can get my tuning around 35 which is where I want it when there is only 4 inches ^2 of port per square inch but I know that is WAYYY low. When I get my ratio of port in^3 to box volume right my tuning ends up in the teens.... what can I do? The dimensions I'm going with are 48 inches wide, 36.5 inches tall, 33 inches front to back. I just need some help with tuning... this is going to be a daily heavily demoed setup. edit** and the port in this picture is 17x8 which is about as big as I'm going to be able to go. And this setup is f…

alright so im building a box for 2 15" LI's. the box would be 33" in depth which gives me 3 inches from the hatch on my jimmy. i think i read on here somewhere that there should be a least 6 inches for it to load off whatever the ports facing. the subs would be on top and port on bottom.

How would I go about flush mounting this? What bit, how to do it, etc. 2.65 cu. ft. box @ 30hz (XCON pre designed enclosure)

Discuss.

I am looking to do 1.5 ft3 with a slot port. I am thinking 20x14.25x12.5 with a .5 wide port by 9.8 inch. For the slot is it as easy as it seems just make 13.75 x 9.8 and keep it a half inch off the side wall?

When building a common chamber ported box for four subs do I take the suggested enclosure volume for the sub and multiply it by the number of subs. ex. A sub requires 1.25 cub. feet minimum. The enclosure is going to have 4 of these subs does that mean that the box should be 5 cubes since 1.25 x 4 = 5

some people know that I want to switch my blazer over to sq after I get a car for bass race/db drag so here is what I have so far let me know what you think mids amp (2ohms) http://www.woofersetc.com/p6743/PCX2125--P...t-Amplifier.htm tweeter amp (2ohms) http://www.woofersetc.com/p6743/PCX2125--P...t-Amplifier.htm sub amp (at 1.5ohms) http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/DD_Z1/ head unit ( I have just wanted to try it) http://www.woofersetc.com/p6576/CD7200-mkI...CD-receiver.htm mids for dash http://www.woofersetc.com/p1564/ES400--CDT...;-Midranges.htm mids for door http://www.woofersetc.com/p1566/ES600--CDT...;-Midranges.htm tweeters (a pillar mounted) http://www.wooferse…

I Currently have 2 12" Memphis Audio PR's in a dual ported box powered by a Cadence ZRS-8 with stock electrical. The system is in a 2011 Mazda 3 Sedan. I have been wanting to play around with new subs and I got a crazy good deal on a single 12" Kicker CVR CompVR Series sub with a sealed box that fits two 12" subs with their own chamber. When I ask this question, keep in mind that I want to keep my stock electrical. I am trying to find either a single or two subs that will get pretty loud off stock electrical. I want something that will get loud and I'm leaning more towards SPL. Should I build a custom box for the single 12" or should I sell the sub and the box and use t…

I picked up a tdx 15 dual voice coil 2 ohm for $100 in a pre-fab box. 1200 watts rms. Hooked it up and found out the box is broke. It sounded like Donald Duck getting kicked in the nads. I would like to build an spl box for it but after googling my fingers off I can't seem to find any box spec recommendations. I was hoping to find a simple slot port build or something because I am still a noob and don't quite understand the Qs's and the other mysterious letter number references on the tech sheets Any ideas or opinions would be appreciated. I prefer spl over sq.

just kidding ok when posting DB numbers you should post what mic it was on and how you metered (sealed on the dash or outlaw) seeing all these people doing 155+ make's me cry till i find out it was on the ac mic with the door open LOL

i am sick of not having an SQ/SPL Hybrid class we could call it LSQ-VFL im bored with just 1 or the other anyone else like to hear the rest of the music loud enuff to mush your brain into peanut butter.... without distortion ? or as lil as possiable

Hello, I have a single BTL N2 12" D2, running on my saz 1500 at 1 Ohm. The box is 2.1 ft3 at 32 Hz, with a slot port. Port firing to the side of my truk. The car is a Toyota auris hatchback. On the TL I only scored 135.8 db sealed at the windshield, and I want higher numbers. It was at 58 Hz : I don't know why it was so high ! 138db with driver's side door open. What can I do ? I want a new box, but do I look for a bigger box, smaller box ? Do I need to have sub and port firing up ? I think I will try an higher tuning, like 34 Hz. Is it worth it ? I'm looking for suggestions. So I can ask a good box designer to work for me.

i just bought a 1990 crx and i have 2 audiopipe txx's they are crap but work for now i just need some help with the box should i have port back subs firing up ? subs firing back and port back? or any ideas? ive gutted the interior in the back i want to fiberglass it all

Do you guys take this into account (from the JL box building page): I take this as meaning I subtract half of the port width from the length. For example, my calculations calls for a 16.5 x 6.15 x 26.25" long port in order to tune to 33Hz. Does the physical port in the box then become 26.25 - 3.07= 23.18 inches long?

Currently running 2 HDS 215s (600rms, 15 inch) subwoofers in the back seat of a mustang convertible. Not much of an improvement over my previous Sundown E-12s. The problem I believe is the box. being obviously small to fit back there. Around 2 cubes per sub. Would I be better off getting a new box to put back there, say the QBOMB15VL where there is 3.85 cubes (4.2 total) for A SINGLE 15 rather than my 2 15s now. Also found on ebay a 4.0 box (5.33 total) tuned at 32hz. Also I could upgrade the subwoofer to something that can take my 1700rms amp better. Any help appreciated.

Any thing I should know or be wary of? 5 1/2" blade? 7 1/2"? Corded? Cordless?

Currently designing a Subwoofer Enclosure for an L7 15 for a 2001 Lincoln Towncar. I am planning to build the enclosure so it would is on the rear ledge in the trunk .. my question is is it bad for partial surface of the cone to only be 4 inches away from a wall of the enclosure? The enclosure will still maintain volume required

I recently found my Visonik 12" woofer and i decided to build a box for it. I have ~$120 for supplies so nothing elaborate. My plan is a little under 4cuft (before displacement) tuned at ~26hz. I would like to use aero ports. The woofer is rated at 250rms, but handled 400rms from my RF200.2 like a champ. I have ~140wrms of clean power to play with, from my HT amp (Samsung HT in a box, very nice system for $220, on sale) I am switching it out for the current woofer, the 8" that is currently in the corner. My parents always turn the sub level way down when they watch movies (frustrating lol) So its mostly for my chopped and screwed music, that i can't fit on my iPod shuffle…

From what I have read here the port area per square foot rule is just a myth, port area has nothing to do with the size of the box. I tried searching more and all I could find was that port area is determined by the parameters of the sub, tuning, and amount of power. So I am curious what formula is used to actually calculate how much port area you need? I am currently designing a new enclosure for my 15" Fi SP4 which is run off an AQ3500. My old box was designed to fit in a trunk but now I have a Tahoe so size is not as big of a restriction for the new box. It was 3.83cuFt @32.25Hz (after displacement). I like the low end but actually would like to try tuning lower. I …

We will be partaking in a new format this year. We have decided, after heavy heart, to drop the dB Drag format and proceed to the IASCA IdbL format. We still plan on hosting our normal 6 shows and possibly a 2x event. We are also thinking of hosting a couple night shows so that the people who have spent the money on neon will have a chance to show that off. Also we are perspectively hosting all events this year in conjunction with "Compact Evolution" which is the brainchild of Garrett Sweet. This would allow our shows to not only become stereo competition events, but car show events also. Of course, all shows will be held at The Colonial Village Fun Park again. He ha…

Well im starting to gather all the parts to build an active 3way setup. I know what im getting into and i know its probably far more complicated than im expecting but i love the challenge. I plan to build pods for the midbass and midrange. The tweeters i plan to mold into the factory location on the door pillar say it stages correctly in that location. Im welcome to all suggestions when it comes speaker choice as im still considering lots of options. I tend to like a smoother highend with alot of punch in the midrange if thats of any help. As for budget ill put a max per driver price beside the speaker type. Im not saying these are for sure max but its what im tr…

Ok i need some help.....i am doing a business and marketing plan(IMC) for a car audio company(mostly enclosures) and when i went to a nameless place(audio store here) i asked the guy what the difference is between ported and sealed box He said nothing....now i know there is a difference i just not sure the reasons...i need to be able to explain it in my presentation in november.. if you use acrynoms or intials(spl or rms) please tell me what they mean so i can use them. i am expected to know all about whatever i present.

I just buy a pair of RE from the SE 10" DVC 4ohm and i wanna a ask you for your recomendation of power for does to subs. how much power i can use to make it burp with out burning them? and last, how mucho cubic feets i make the box for spl use? thanks

Vehicle : 1973 VW Beetle Location in the vehicle: Rear cargo area; sub pointed up Space available (Length x Width x Height): 35" length x 12" depth x 12-15" height Subwoofer make and model: Fi SSD Subwoofer Size: 10 Number of Subwoofers: 1 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): Rectangle w/ 45's What type of music do you like?: EDM, RAP, Rock, Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Everyday high sq Tuning Freq (Hz): 35 - 38hz? Volume : 1 - 1.5? Questions: So I have modeled up a few different enclosure in win isd but I just want some confirmation as to what you guys think will work best for my listening needs. From what I have read on this forum that I believe Fi recom…

What i want is the box to be smooth, without being able to see the screws so i can paint the box and have it look very smooth. I have to ways im thinking of going about this. 1- This is the one i feel as the better of the two....sink the screws a little further into the mdf and put a filler then sand it smooth or 2- After the box glue has dried take the screw out then use a filler and sand? Is there any reason for the screws to stay in the wood or can i take them back out? Thanks, Jack3d