SPL & SQ / Fabrication

instead of continuing to hijack ryan's pic thread, i figured i'd start this up in here.... my opinion, based on talking to a few world champs and experience.. bracing is overrated. as is double baffles. they should only be used of the sub is extremely heavy, u have a really long, flat straight stretch or u are using vast amounts of power. for everyday box building, the box isn't going to flex enough for anyone to hear, see or notice a loss from. in most cases, if designed properly, the port can act as the bracing. for the most part, the best thing u can do for ur ported box is round off all port angles, but even then, for everyday use, it isn't necessary. to gain tenths o…

I am going the wall route and am in the designing stages to make sure everything is going to fit. The issue I am having is with my ports... I can get my tuning around 35 which is where I want it when there is only 4 inches ^2 of port per square inch but I know that is WAYYY low. When I get my ratio of port in^3 to box volume right my tuning ends up in the teens.... what can I do? The dimensions I'm going with are 48 inches wide, 36.5 inches tall, 33 inches front to back. I just need some help with tuning... this is going to be a daily heavily demoed setup. edit** and the port in this picture is 17x8 which is about as big as I'm going to be able to go. And this setup is f…

Is there a good rule of thumb to follow when it comes to designing a custom ported enclosure in regards to volume vs tuning frequency? Like the more volume you have the lower you want it tuned? I have been playing with design specs in winisd and based on the graphs I see in the design window, want to build a 3ft^3 box tuned to 34hz for my 12" GCON . How well would this design translate into the real world? Box will be in trunk of my '96 accord. I listen to all types of music but LOVE dub step and deep bass. Would 32hz sound better. I am looking for max spl and bass response through a wide frequency range...

I am looking to do 1.5 ft3 with a slot port. I am thinking 20x14.25x12.5 with a .5 wide port by 9.8 inch. For the slot is it as easy as it seems just make 13.75 x 9.8 and keep it a half inch off the side wall?

My substage is complete and now I am looking for some midbass/mid/tweeters. I have never used active crossovers but would like to for this build. Any suggestions for something that could keep up with (4) 18"s and 8kwrms. It is going in a suburban so I have all four doors available, plus the possibility of a custom center console. I was thinking about making center console enclosure for the midbass, but found out most mid bass speakers are designed for IB. Are there any that would work well in that style of enclosure? Would PA speakers(seen a lot of people using electro-voice) be a bad idea? Any suggestions or links to similar builds would be appreciated.

can you do a 2 or 3 way active set up with this equipment? (Alpine CDA-9884, PXA-H100, KTX-H100) im doing a 2way and will try a 3 way down the road so id like to get something that will have the processing for the 3way when im ready crutchfield has that trade in (exchange) system were i can get a gift card for there site. (im going to sell them my sony hu and old ipod for a like $100). the alpine hu is currently $170. im trying to find a better deal on the PXA-H100, $150 is alittle expensive and i think i can do better. the h/u will be new w/ warranty. so im going either this route or that clarion h/u. with the mic and everything on this combo it would seem that my firs…

I have a Fi Q motor with cooling option with a 6 spoke 18 basket, single layer nomex spiders, tall roll surround, and dual 2. Recone made by spl audio. I have it in a box thats 39.75x 42.5 x 13.5 with a 10"x12"X42" portThe sub and port are both forward firing. I can tell the port needs to be shrunk but i was thinking of doing a 6th for it instead. Any ideas?

im makiing a temp system for now in my 95 grand prix. i am needing help on how much port area is ideal for these subs. going to be pushed by a alpine mrp1000 at 2 ohms. the sub is a brand new alpine type r 12. thank you for your time.

guys i have an idea i want to do a new enclosure in the trunk of my 1995 caprice i was thinking of building 2 boxes one on the left side of the trunk facing inward and the other on the right side facing inward as well the boxes will be built to specs and ported for my db drive k915d4s powered by a bc3500d i also plan on cutting out the area behinfd the arm rest in the center of my back seat to act as a port into the cabin thid setup is for spl only but be used as a daily driver what do you guys tthink as fsr as the perfomance aspect of tis desighn there will be a total of 4 subs 2 on each side withe aproxamatley 10-15 inches between the boxes or less tips and feed back n…

I drive a 2005 Ford Taurus, currently with 2 Kicker Comp 12s, which were my first install. I've been looking to upgrade to (significantly) more powerful drivers for a while now and I've recently taken on the job of research. I talked to a local Audiophile Loudspeaker company and he recommended TC Sounds LMS-R 12s. After reading reviews, I've noticed that their performance, while good, can be hit or miss. I did some more research and stumbled upon the AA Havoc 12s. These interested me more because of the (almost) 100% positive reviews and thumbs ups for SPL AND SQ. I'm looking to run these off of a Kicker ZX2500.1, giving them the 1250 RMS they're rated for (not overpower…

Currently I have a center console in a single cab chevy with sub up and port up. Like so.. Or what about something like thiss?

Discuss.

Hi guys, i have a trunk car (2004 Camry) and right now my setup is sub/port back. I have experimented with placing the box closer to the front of the trunk (closer to the back seat) or further back (near the rear bumper), so far my car rattles less and sounds louder when closer to the bumper.. Question I had was, would I gain anything if I flipped my box so that the port/sub was firing into the cabin? if I am listening to the sub at high volume I usually fold the rear seats down to allow more air to move... Wanted to know if anyone with my car or a similar setup has tried this and what results they had before I manhandle a 100lb box and re-wire my amps etc.. thanks!

I am in need of a site or location to get OEM fabric. Not having any luck with Yahoo or google. I not only need the same fabric my seats are made of but I need quite a large bit of OEM vinal also. The local dealership here wanted too much, nad I had to order in bulk on top of that. 2002 Chevy Silverado Tan interior Any help would be appritiated.

I have been looking in to these two subs for months now reading everything I can. I am still stuck maybe some smart people can help me out. ok I am looking for high quality, clarity, accurate, punchy sound not so much loud. mainly SQ. I had two Pioneer TS-W309D4 in a sealed box at 1.15 Cu. Ft. Air Space per sub. powered by a Pyle PLA2678. I liked this sound it sounded nice punchy. but I wanted something better so this guy told me about FI and Audio Pipe amps . so then I got a FI SSD 12 with only interior leads. powered by a AUDIOPIPE APSM-1500 and in 2cu ft. of air space. tuned to 32hz ported. it got so loud my nose flap would shake and it was awesome and still …

Hey guys. I need a little help designing a ported enclosure for my new Crystal CMPx2 15". It's going to go in the trailblazer for now. I listen to nearly everything so I'm looking for a good daily build. I could be off but I'm thinking I want to tune somewhere between 31-33Hz so I can get some lows. My size limitations are 46" wide x 16" high x 14" deep. I have a little wiggle room on height and depth, but I'd like to keep as much space as possible in the Trailblazer. I will post T/S parameters below and I expect to be running at 1500+ watts with maybe a little headroom, probably going to just grab a RF T1500bdcp, unless I get a better deal on something else. I'd really…

Soo pretty much, I've been wanting to do a more compact sub setup for quite some time, and since its spring time, I needed a nice little project to keep me busy! The design I came up with is pretty simple in concept... basically its going to be a fiberglass ported tube enclosure simular to a bazooka tube. I figured these enclosures can offer me a more compact enclosure than a big box, yet still be ported. Its going to be constucted using a 10" in diameter by 48"cardboard tube used for concrete molding (simular to a sono tube). I'd cut it to the length I need to give me my airspace, create an MDF baffel for the sub to mount on to, use a smaller tube to form the port. …

Forgot I uploaded these to photobucket Quite the challenge considering it's a crackerbox tracker, that's a manual, and I wear a size 15 shoe. I'll get some more pics when I get back home.

looking at possibly building a 6th order box for my 10" ssa xcon.. first of all i would like to know how you figure port area needed when building such an enclosure. for a standard vented box i show i need around 35" at 30hz more at higher hz obv. if i use this Car Audio - PORT Size Calculations and Formulas for WOOFER and Subwoofer BOXES and use the bandpass option i would need a box the size of my car in order to tune it low enough... clearly theirs something im missing ? i have roughly 4 maybe 5 cubes i can work with would love to hear some input

I've been trying super hard to get my box calculations right. Can someone confirm these #'s?? I really hope I'm on the money. in advance. Box is 32" tall, 15" deep, and 18" wide. Port is 16.5" tall (internal), 2.25" wide, and 40" long. Looking to be 31-32hz, 2.25cu.ft. after sub and port displacement. :fingers crossed:

When building a common chamber ported box for four subs do I take the suggested enclosure volume for the sub and multiply it by the number of subs. ex. A sub requires 1.25 cub. feet minimum. The enclosure is going to have 4 of these subs does that mean that the box should be 5 cubes since 1.25 x 4 = 5

My uncle had all the tools to help with the build but then a lady drove into his garage and in the process ran over the main gas line. His whole garage was torched, including the tools and his brand new Honda Pilot. Since the last time I've posted, I haven't had time to build it but a coworker of mine wants to help out with the build so I just wanted to go over some options. TIA My max outside dimensions: W=35" L=8.5" H=15". This is going in an '06 Suby wagon. The sealed box should work fine but I'm wondering if ported could work also. I listen to some rap, but mostly alternative and stuff like Blue October, Silversun Pickups, etc. I think I have the room for ported…

I'm trying to build a box for a single FI BL 15, fully loaded. I want it tuned around 32-33 hz. Also my trunk in my car is kinda small height wise, so I was wondering if it was possible to put the sub on the top of the box and lower the height a little bit so the sub doesnt get close to the top of the trunk. The port I want on the front. Is that possible? The dimensions I have so far are: Width - 32 Height - 14 Depth - 25 Port Height - 12.5 Port Width - 5 Port Length 1 - 19.25 Port Length 2 - 8 62.5 inches Total Port Area, 3.8 ft^3 for box. Tuned at ~32. Would it be possible to put the sub on top of the box with this design, and still have the port on the front?

Looking for someone to help me design an enclosure with a kerfed port. I have been trying out doing it on scrap wood in my garage for a while and wanting to try it out on one of my enclosures. I have someone wanting an enclosure built right now and figured it would be a good one to start with. Its for 2 sundown sa8v2's in a trunk . I was told there Going to be on 1-1500 rms. . .Max dimensions - 30 wide 10 tall and 16 deep. (Ill ask if any of the dimensions can get bigger) Wanting it subs facing up and port back. Tuned in the low 30s. 30-34. . . . . Listens to mostly rap music.