SPL & SQ / Fabrication

So I was using this box for my current 12" IDQ sub. The opening was ofcourse cut larger to accept the 12" sub since the box was designed for a 10. Was asking around and the idea was to use this design for my Icon sub that I purchased since I was getting rid of the IDQ. I downloaded the pre-designed enclosures for the Icon and after seeing them, I'm a bit unsure about now using my current box for this sub. Do you guys think the box below would work fine for the Icon? My current box is 1.45 cu ft @ 32hz. I knew it was going to be on the small size, but was told it would work fine. My main problem is space in the trunk of my car. I dont want a huge box and the 12 1/2…

well, looks like rattlebox317 will be running a wmd2 12" this spring. tuned @ 32 hz. little over 42"sq.in. of port area. 4.5 cubes gross, with a internal volume of 2.53 cubes net. double baffle, .75 mdf . will be rear firing in a 2000 olds alero trunk. dd setup, rap / hip hop. still playing with a couple of amp options. will zero in on that real soon.

Saw it on a few different threads over the interwebs. Alan Hall did a 160.2 at a 3x usaci meet. He's running two 15" Tantric HDD's and two RD D9 amplifiers. Damn Great score.

I don't want to run rear speakers, and I was told here that 6's wouldn't keep up with what I was running, so I thought I'd try to fit 8's in the front doors. I remember hearing that someone here had done it to their blazer without pods, but I don't remember how they said they did it. I would run a pair of Crescendo PWX-8's and a pair of their tweeters. If the eight had trouble reaching up high enough, I could put a pair of 4's or 4x6's in the dash, in the factory locations to help with vocals.

so im gonna go active again.. im going to use the new sundown neopro8's head unit us going to be a Pioneer FH P8800BT not the bestfor active but its what i have. amp is sundown 100.4 v1 so im open on tweeters... i used these https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_229_324&products_id=1466 last time.. they were decent, and small... and i could mouth them with out alot of custom work or cuttin a 3 inch hole! but im open to seeing what advice is giving. i also wanted to ask a few questions. last time i went active i bought 3 sets of tweeters before i got dialed... i would LOVE not to do that this time. so would these help me stay out of rang…

i'm almost done. i didn't use any glue, cause if it won't fit threw the hatch, then i'm gonna have to put it togother in the car:( it is ~5.9ft^3@25Hz for my 2 RL-p 15's. it has to stay in the hatch(backseat has to stay functional), and with the side windows in the way, this is as close as a wall as i could get. enjoy! more tommorow

Im really attracted to how loud this sub can get...but ive heard it an have some pretty imprssive SQ...qualities...i know about the BL Q and SSD but those just dont seem like they will get loud enough for me...so...BTL 12s in a big ass sealed box...think it might work?

Hotcarl was kind enough to send me a design someone had made up for him for a SS RL-i 8. I wanted to see if you guys could take a look at it for me and see what you think. I personally have never designed or built a TL. Not to mention I will not have time to build this any time soon, so don't ask for progress pictures

I seen on a build log this guy put 8" subs in his doors for mid bass. He didnt use a box or anything but a adapter so the sub can be mounted. - i am thinking about doing this to my s15 but i imagined that the sub will need the right enclosure to play good. So it leaves me with the question.. will an 8inch sub play good in a door without anything but an adapter for the sub to be mounted. I cannot ask him how it sounded because i dont remeber where the log was. -thanks Dom.

ok so word around town in the local audio house in town is lookin to build a car to "out do me" they found a sucker that wants to be me! sooo they have a plan to do 8 mojos.. 2 cheap 12s and a buncha other crap from 15 grand... so work got to me.. and i drove around tell i found this fool... ohh you should have seen his face... anyway... i talked about walling onew of my cars before... now im doing it. i wanna do a simple wall.. nothing crazy.. i wanna do 4 15's or 4 18's.... im thinking 15;'s but first tthing is first... what car should i do it in is the poll working?

Let me start out by saying that I have been out of the car audio game for some time, and I have never been as concerned with SPL as much as I have been with overall sound quality. It has been a mystery to me for some time as to why no one uses high efficiency subwoofers: for example a pro audio subwoofer. If the main concern is to get loud, why is this option never mentioned or even discussed. Many car audio subwoofers I see are in the range of 85-90 dB at 1 watt measured at 1 meter. Maybe closer to low 90s for a large woofer. On the other hand, many pro audio speakers have much higher efficiency, 95dB+ for 1 watt at 1 meter. To me it seems that efficiency would be…

i've been making and tweaking a box calculator the last few months. it's come along nicely i'd say. it's been over on *** (i'm ExpoSport over there...and if it's possible to change this name to ExpoSport me love you long time so after getting it tweaked to a good point i figured i'd share it elsewhere now. one thing that is still in the works is an open/save feature so you can save designs instead of printing or writing them down everytime. this is mainly for square/slot ports. plain boxes will be easier to do, but if you build a box in the car for example, you'd need to figure out the volume on your own and then fill the boxes in accordingly to get that volume, and then…

I need to know what the best size box would be for a JL 13w7 for spl. I have always heard most manufacturers give smaller then optimal size requirements just to sell subs and to lower power handling so they have less warranty claims. Looking for anybody who has experience with these subs who can tell me what's the best cubic feet to get the max out of these subs. I'm running them off the JL HD1200/1's in a 2013 Dodge Avenger R/T. Pretty big trunk just small opening may have to build box in place. I want to run ported for more output but still be musical. Also need to know tuning.

Ok, well My box is done, and the entire system is up and running. I have a few issues but the one and most major concern, is that my sub box smells like its burning..lol I know, weird, but it smells as if it is charing or something and I don't know why. Anyone have any ideas? Is it just the "new box" smell or what? I smelled the port area and its deff coming from the box. Also, it seems to be pretty warm. Its a 15 inch IA LI. The sub seems kinda warm too, the dust cap, not really hott but warmish. Please help. My box is about 3.9cubes and 3.5 inches of port which is about 54 square inches total, its around there.. Any help would be nice.

just as the title says, who all is going, I might be able to make a trip out, not sure though

where should i start ? i have a newer truck 1996' 2 door Chevy 2500 x-cab. bench seat 60/40 amp is a Massive p3000.1 subs are Pap WMD-SPL 1000rms ea. anyone have expierance with this truck ???

HU: Pioneer P99RS Amp for front stage: Arc Audio KS900.6 Tweets: LGP 25NFA Mids: JL Audio 4" Midbass: JL Audio 8" Amp for sub: Sundown SAZ-1500D v.3 Sub: (2) Fi Audio IB315 I think I have my front stage dialed in pretty good. My tuning includes, gain level setting, t/a, phase adjustment, rta (not relied on heavily), eq balance adjustments and crossover setting. Not in that order but those are some adjustments I made. I also meet with a MECA multi champion who was very helpful in the tuning process. The two biggest issues my setup has right now is slight smearing to the right side and I would really like the soundstage to be wider. The smearing of the center image is ver…

I am building an enclosure for my 12 xcon and this is the first enclosure iv ever built so please let me know if i am doing anything wrong. I had my 3/4 mdf cut and i was going to use wood glue and wood screws. when i went to put in the screws into the vertical pieces of wood, the wood split. I tryd every screw i could think of any i couldnt figure anything out.. also how do you screw into the wood after you have just put wood glue on. the wood just slips around when you try to screw?

check it out... im getting fustrated.... i have a trunk full of great audio.... BUT...... someone with bullchit in the back of there suv is close to being the same ear level audio as I....... so what else can i do... the way i see it is i need an suv... then i can put what i already have in it and it will be 10 times louder....

What is everyones definition of Sound Quality?

So, i am going to need to coat the entire inside of my upcoming project in resin.. I have a few questions... 1- Any type of resin and hardener i should use specifically for this or any at Lowes for fiberglassing fine? 2- How many coats or how thick should i make it? 16 cubes GROSS 7kw of power with All-thread bracing. 3- Is it ok if i coat the entire inside with resin, then after it cures, drill out all the holes i need to run my allthread? OR should i already run all-thread and have it braced before coating with resin?

I've built quite a few boxes over the last few years, and they've all been with screws. However, I have the opportunity of getting a brad nailer (either a Hitachi or Porter and Cable) for free. It seems like brad nailing would make things go a lot faster, but I have no experience with them. I was wondering which you guys prefer, and why?

hello all! I have a 99 single cab Silverado. I'm wanting to put my 15" BTL N2 in the truck but i've never done a blow through. my concerns are how big to cut the hole out through the cab, should I make it as big as the box? or can I get away with having a smaller hole (only a few inches smaller) I have another BTL that needs to be reconed but, I don't have a amp that can push them both. so for now I want to just put this one in. would a 4th order be a good design or just a slot ported box work better (I'm not a fan of aero ports)

im looking to buy a single 15" sub. im upgrading from 2 12" sony xplod sub so im sure whatever i pick is going to be a helluva upgrade but i still want to get the best bang for my buck and SQ. I looking at the Icon X and Fi Q and i wanted to know which would be louder and have better SQ. Also what box should i use sealed or ported Vehicle: 2008 Trailblazer LT with bose all the way around with a pioneer 3200 DVD indash headunit. THanks for all your feedback

I currently have Rainbow Cal27 tweeters and Rainbow Profi Kick midbass. I am looking for a midrange to make a "hybrid" 3way frontstage (that words seems rather redundant ) I have a profi crossover and the intent was to place the tweeter and small dome midrange quite close to each other in the kickpanel, while the midbass is in the door. The midbass will be in the door. The specs on the midrange need to be a 2" dome with ~ 1" mounting depth and 4 ohms (because of the crossover, I am unsure how the crossover point will be affected by an 8 ohm midrange. I feel that my 880 should be able to t/a the midrange and tweeter because they are so close together, they will act as on…