SPL & SQ / Fabrication

i had a thread a while ago that had a download to a box tuning calculator that i made. i've since upgraded it hardcore and would like to repost it. i cant edit my original post in the other thread which is why i'm making a new one. also since i cant edit my original post to update it, i'm linking it to SMD where the original thread is to download from. that way i can update that one which will in turn update the link to the download from here and still allow comments and questions on this forum (i hope that's all ok). if a mod would like, the other thread can be deleted if they find it to prevent any confusion. that one is pretty old tho, so probably buried tho i found it…

I have an old 2 channel amp that i wAnt to put in my truck. Should it go on tye front door 6.5s or on the back door 6.5s? My sub is in the back seat also... But what would sound better? Iv been told the back would sound better... But i feel the front would. What do you guys think? They are the kicker ds series 6.5s and its like a 40rms amp or so per channel... Coment please!

I was curious if anyone had any sites i can browse and educate myself on custom fabrication....not real complex chit, just things along the lines of amp racks and custom door/kick panels.... much appreciated

Hey gusy, im about to start the box build for my sa-12 and im just looking for a little help since its going to be my first real box build. I've came up with a design, but i used the RE box calculator to do so,which i've heard isn't all the accurate, so i was just wondering if someone could check the numbers for me. Heres the dimensions- 24" wide by 14" tall by 15" deep. the port is 2" wide with a length of 16". RE says that the box is 1.72 cubes at 32.8hz with 25in of port. Anybody willing to check this for me? Thanks

Okay so many designs and tunnings have been done at this point any new ideas will help!! Car freq: 50-51hz box tunned to 48hz 145.2db 8.2cbs boxtunned to 43hz 148.8 db 5.2cbs boxtunned to 38hz 147.1db 5.2 cbs boxtunned to 32hz 145.6db 5.4 cbs all boxes are vented box style subs firing up. box tunned to 38hz 3-3'' aeros 4.0 cubes 143.5db boxtunned to 45hz 3-3" aeros 4.0 cubes 139.0 db subs up ports back also tried firing to left side of car then right no change all recorded loses?????? any help will be great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thanks,

I've been trying super hard to get my box calculations right. Can someone confirm these #'s?? I really hope I'm on the money. in advance. Box is 32" tall, 15" deep, and 18" wide. Port is 16.5" tall (internal), 2.25" wide, and 40" long. Looking to be 31-32hz, 2.25cu.ft. after sub and port displacement. :fingers crossed:

If I had (4) 6 1/2's and I went to (3) 8's, how much louder would I be?

I'm going to be building a second enclosure for my Fi Bl 15. For my first enclosure I made it out of Birch Plywood so what I was wondering was if Cherry, walnut or poplar would be good for a box?

I used the SSA enclosure tool and just want to check and see if everything seems right This is going in a 99 civic sedan, SDC2.5 12". I have all this calculated for a net vol. of 2cuft and a gross of 2.65.....will that be good? Any recommendations for a better box for this sub? Outside dimensions: width=30 depth=15.5 height=14.5 For the port, tuned to 38Hz: width=2.5 height=13 L shaped so... L1=12.25 L2=1.5 and the enclosure tool says total port length is 18.25...is it calculating straight down the center? Area=32.5 displacement=602.875 in^3 or ~.35 cuft I'm really not too sure about the port.....also if i were to use winISD, what sub should i use for calculations or…

What do you guys think of this design? The huge ported section will be roughly 50 width, 36 Height, and 36 length all the way up to the back of my front seats. The sealed section in the trunk will have roughly 1.5-2 cubes per sub with the ported having over 30 cubes hopefully Give me your opinions of this design please Thanks http://img573.imageshack.us/img573/9628/boxdesign3.png http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/570/boxdesign.png http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/7765/boxdesign2.png does that make sense?

I would like help with a design of a box for a Sundown Audio SA 12" sub woofer , that is 12" at the bottom, 8" at the top 17" tall and 30" long, with the sub woofer mounted on the slanted side. I would like it to be ported, and tuned to 32 HZ. Again, 3/4" MDF 12" bottom 8" top 17" tall 30" long Tuned to 32 HZ Sub-woofer mounted on slanted side Truck-box style.

i was going to sound dead my box in and out with some raammat i bought ... does it really help all that much? i was going to coat the inside and outside ... is that beneficial or can I get away with just doing the inside?

I plan on doing some dynamat here soon, would it be worth also filling my panels and/or doors with polyfil? What effects will it have?

I drive a 2005 Ford Taurus, currently with 2 Kicker Comp 12s, which were my first install. I've been looking to upgrade to (significantly) more powerful drivers for a while now and I've recently taken on the job of research. I talked to a local Audiophile Loudspeaker company and he recommended TC Sounds LMS-R 12s. After reading reviews, I've noticed that their performance, while good, can be hit or miss. I did some more research and stumbled upon the AA Havoc 12s. These interested me more because of the (almost) 100% positive reviews and thumbs ups for SPL AND SQ. I'm looking to run these off of a Kicker ZX2500.1, giving them the 1250 RMS they're rated for (not overpower…

so here is my problem.. Ive never sound deadened a floor of a car but i have done everything else... so i pulled up out my seats and my carpet today so i can get started. well i noticed there's a rubber like matt and Styrofoam stuck to the floor should i try and pull this all up or am i gonna have a sticky mess?. im wondering if putting sound deadener on top of the matt would even do anything beneficial. should i just do the bare metal areas? I have 50 sq ft to put in on the floor and firewall. just trying to kill some road noise. any help is appreciated thanks a lot

i would like to congradulate chris and rick for going to finals. and placing 10th in the world for ss1-2. it's good to see someone from up here to actually make it. now lets see what they are going to do next year. saggs

I just got a box design confirmed by a few of my friends that it will work.. Now I do not have the space for it (doh). It is literally a few inches too big to fit in my trunk. Pretty much it is a 4 cuFt box tuned to 30hz using two removable aeroports. One removed keeps the tuning at 30hz, two in makes the tuning 44hz for comps. Now my question is what if I use pvc piping (I heard its not as loud because its not flared) and instead of having it come straight out, make a 90 degree angle as soon as it leaves the box... Anybody know what this would do for tuning? Or how to figure out with a box calculator what it may do?

I have a Fi Q motor with cooling option with a 6 spoke 18 basket, single layer nomex spiders, tall roll surround, and dual 2. Recone made by spl audio. I have it in a box thats 39.75x 42.5 x 13.5 with a 10"x12"X42" portThe sub and port are both forward firing. I can tell the port needs to be shrunk but i was thinking of doing a 6th for it instead. Any ideas?

Just curious on how much a shop should charge for a box if i supplied them with cut sheet and just had them supply and cut the wood? I enjoy the box building process but don't have the time,skill or equipment to do nice straight cuts. I should be able to design assemble and finish. What do you think? Around $100? Ill talk to my local shop this week but wanted to get yalls opinion.

Hey guys this is my first post! Seems like a great forum with knowledgeable members, so anyways... What is the best stuff to seal an enclosure with? Silicone? Caulking? Which type?

Not owning a meter I have not gotten to do much testing. My SPL comp runs have been as much for testing purposes as for fun. I have done 3 testing sessions not in comps. and the 1st 2 were in between comp runs for 20-30 mins each and then yesterday I finally got a chance to do some rigoris testing for a few hours. Here's what I learned helps my TC get louder: 1. a. Passenger seat all the way forward as if some one was getting in back seat of my 2 door, a funny thought cuz I made my car a 2 seater with a massive enclosure. b. The back of the seat all the way forward. I have a pic. of this if any1 is having a hard time visualizing, but its a common practice with db-dragg…

looking at possibly building a 6th order box for my 10" ssa xcon.. first of all i would like to know how you figure port area needed when building such an enclosure. for a standard vented box i show i need around 35" at 30hz more at higher hz obv. if i use this Car Audio - PORT Size Calculations and Formulas for WOOFER and Subwoofer BOXES and use the bandpass option i would need a box the size of my car in order to tune it low enough... clearly theirs something im missing ? i have roughly 4 maybe 5 cubes i can work with would love to hear some input

I want to build a sealed box behind the back seat of my 08 Dakota Crew Cab. There is VERY little space back there, to the point that to get my airspace, I need to get rid of the back wall of the box. My idea is to use some damplifier pro or spectru sludge on the cab wall to create the back wall of the enclosure. Am I on the right track? Or is there a better way to do this. This is the only location I can use, due to restrictions from my wife. Thanks Rob

can you do a 2 or 3 way active set up with this equipment? (Alpine CDA-9884, PXA-H100, KTX-H100) im doing a 2way and will try a 3 way down the road so id like to get something that will have the processing for the 3way when im ready crutchfield has that trade in (exchange) system were i can get a gift card for there site. (im going to sell them my sony hu and old ipod for a like $100). the alpine hu is currently $170. im trying to find a better deal on the PXA-H100, $150 is alittle expensive and i think i can do better. the h/u will be new w/ warranty. so im going either this route or that clarion h/u. with the mic and everything on this combo it would seem that my firs…

Hi guys, i have a trunk car (2004 Camry) and right now my setup is sub/port back. I have experimented with placing the box closer to the front of the trunk (closer to the back seat) or further back (near the rear bumper), so far my car rattles less and sounds louder when closer to the bumper.. Question I had was, would I gain anything if I flipped my box so that the port/sub was firing into the cabin? if I am listening to the sub at high volume I usually fold the rear seats down to allow more air to move... Wanted to know if anyone with my car or a similar setup has tried this and what results they had before I manhandle a 100lb box and re-wire my amps etc.. thanks!