SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Got a question: Noticed that spl meters seem to have a simple pressure sensor in them. Does anyone know the formula to convert SPL to PSI? If so, I may just make a home brew SPL meter to test changes made. I have a 3-bar map sensor sitting around which can read the barometric at first for calibration, then anything after that. Or am I way off base here?

This has nothing to do with audio, so if this is in the wrong section, I apologize and feel free to move it. The package tray for my hatch was broken when I bought the car. Looks like someone put something too heavy on it and cracked the structure inside. Can I lay chop mat down on top of the carpet and resin it or will the resin not adhere to the carpet? I'm just looking to do the underside of this to make it rigid enough to hold it's shape again when it's in the car. I've heard you should lay rope or something similar to give the mat a corrugated look for linear strength. Here's a picture of the underside of the tray where I'd like to strengthen it. The carpet is hook…

I'm currently building my first 6th order bandpass enclosure. I need a way to make the top panel secure to the box, but easily removable for access to the sub once the top is put on. Here is what I have done thus far. I have also added weather stripping all around to prevent leaking. I'm looking for suggestions for the best way to go about this other than glue and screws. Thanks in advance.

I am pretty serious about doing a blowthrough to my F-150 in the next few months. I am pretty settled on 2 18"s on 4000 watts (will be more with upgrades in the future.) I was thinking of a 4th order bandpass box for them but I want to be loud on low hertz (like around 30-35). How can I accomplish this? Also, what would be better: 2 18" or 4 15" all on 4000 watts? Like I said, I want to be loud but hit low.

Hi, Just pick up a HDS208, Would like some help with a box design. Because i don't know how much Sd this speaker takes up. I'm just looking at a 1cuft box tune to 35hz. look at a box 14x20x10 external measurement with a 3inch aero port x 16.5 Please advise, Gao

I'm working on a box design for a single ported SA-12. I looked at the Sketchup design they have for a 1-12 ported, and I came up with this for my vehicle. It seems pretty dead on. Is the 13.5" x 2" port too narrow? The one in the Sketchup is 14" x 2" so I figure it's good. Thanks.

I got some new midbass speakers and ready to mount them in the door. Problem is, there is very little depth due to the window frame directly behind the speaker mount. I had planned on making some door pods, since my panel is really flat with the pocket removed. Here is what I have to work with. Buddy told me- Hey! You have a large opening in the middle of the door. You can make a baffle, bolt it to the door, and be done! Yeah, that would be pretty easy but I think soundstage would be terrible. Here is a pic relative to postion. Am I wrong? I tried hooking up the driver and moving it around. Kinda hard to tell holding it with one hand and moving it around the door a…

so this last weekend i went to my first ever spl competition and i didnt meter as well as i would have hoped but people were nice enough to help me out. one of the suggestions was find the right hertz for my truck. so i was hoping someone on here has a truck like or knows someone that has a truck like mine and knows the right hertz for my truck. i have a two door tahoe i have 4 12'' ppi pcx subs in a 6.5 cubic foot box with two 6'' round ports tuned at 32 hertz. i got told that i need to make a square wooden port and it needs to be at least 18'' in length i dont know if thats right or not so id thought id ask. i plan on making another new port this weekend for my next c…

I used the SSA enclosure tool and just want to check and see if everything seems right This is going in a 99 civic sedan, SDC2.5 12". I have all this calculated for a net vol. of 2cuft and a gross of 2.65.....will that be good? Any recommendations for a better box for this sub? Outside dimensions: width=30 depth=15.5 height=14.5 For the port, tuned to 38Hz: width=2.5 height=13 L shaped so... L1=12.25 L2=1.5 and the enclosure tool says total port length is 18.25...is it calculating straight down the center? Area=32.5 displacement=602.875 in^3 or ~.35 cuft I'm really not too sure about the port.....also if i were to use winISD, what sub should i use for calculations or…

Okay, I have a guy that lives behind me that has three 12" Kicker CVR's . He currently has them in a very crappy box and is wanting me to throw a better box together for him. I stand to make a few bucks from this project. that is all. there is no possibility of him competing or even keeping this setup long term. just a better box than he has and some cash in ol' chop's pocket. So for the sake of getting good responses, i am not looking to buy these, i only want to get some good input on what volume and tunning would be good for them to get loud with. not a fart box, but i am sure he has no interest in catching the lows. I have not used these subs before..... off the top o…

Just curious on how much a shop should charge for a box if i supplied them with cut sheet and just had them supply and cut the wood? I enjoy the box building process but don't have the time,skill or equipment to do nice straight cuts. I should be able to design assemble and finish. What do you think? Around $100? Ill talk to my local shop this week but wanted to get yalls opinion.

Ok, so I called Pioneer to check and see what they recommended for a square port and they told me 1.65 ft^3 per sub 7in^2 of port per sub 6" deep. Which seems SUPER tiny, but when my boy (BngBlzr) had 4 TS-W306DVC's in his blazer with the same specs, shit was loud. So I got the box all built, and I am NOT IMPRESSED. So what do you guys think for port, I don't want to rebuild the whole box, preferably just the front where the port is. The link is to my facebook photo album where pics of the box are. I am trying to locate my piece of paper with the dimensions written on it to throw that in here for you guys to play with too. LMK what you guys think cause from hearing his 4 …

So I had a box design done by someone that seems to be a reputable designer around the car audio forums, and I have a couple of questions about it. I have a FI BTL N2 12" D2 running on a SAZ-1500, 250amp alt, 0 ga wire throughout including big 3 and additional grounds throughout the engine compartment, XS Power d975 in the back, Optima yellow top up front. The design he gave me has a net volume of 4 cubes. Is that too big for that one sub? I told him I wanted a daily ground pounder that can kill some lows. Well it does destroy the low notes, but it seems to be pretty weak with the majority of rap/hip-hop songs, and doesn't sound real strong on rock or metal. I know the …

I think i wanna run a buss bar only across the ground terminals of 3 batts in the rear of my vehicle. I can't safely run one for both power and ground if you are wondering. Anyway, the reason why i would want to run one for ground is so i can just run all 3 of my amps ground out to the batt's ground buss bar. This way i can run multi runs of ground wires off of the buss bar, let's say 2 runs of 1/0 off the left and 2 runs of 1/0 off the right. Where exactly do i go to get one and how do i know if it's thick enough... if it'll fit on my batts, etc... they are for kinetiks so i know i can take the posts out of the batt to bolt it back down. I found a site that was selling a…

I recently found my Visonik 12" woofer and i decided to build a box for it. I have ~$120 for supplies so nothing elaborate. My plan is a little under 4cuft (before displacement) tuned at ~26hz. I would like to use aero ports. The woofer is rated at 250rms, but handled 400rms from my RF200.2 like a champ. I have ~140wrms of clean power to play with, from my HT amp (Samsung HT in a box, very nice system for $220, on sale) I am switching it out for the current woofer, the 8" that is currently in the corner. My parents always turn the sub level way down when they watch movies (frustrating lol) So its mostly for my chopped and screwed music, that i can't fit on my iPod shuffle…

I am doing a 4th order in my GF's 1998 Mustang GT convertible. The box will be where the back seat should be since the trunk is sealed off. She has 2 db Drive K9 12"s and a db Drive A7 1,500. I want to do a 4th order bandpass with a woofers behind either seat facing into the ported wide which wiill port into thr middle. = I am thinking 1 cube each sealed with 2 each in the ported side. So 2 sealed 4 ported with 80-100^2 port tuned to 48Hz. Any thoughts?

Vehicle :2002 nissan frontier crewcab Location in the vehicle:back seat Space available (Length x Width x Height):26x50x31 Subwoofer make and model:fi bl Subwoofer Size:18 Number of Subwoofers:2 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.):aero What type of music do you like?:rap Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?:everyday Tuning Freq (Hz):32-36 Volume :around 19ish i think i am building a box for my truck i am taking the backrest out of the backseat to make some more room the dimensions are with it out i want to do subs either facing forward or up and the ports down the middle facing forward but i need help with how to tune the box with aerports i want around 14cuft of air…

All 3 of these can be found at Home Depot. The goals i'm looking for is the best stiffness, yet no heavier than MDF (96lbs). All sheeting would be 3\4". I read and read about these sheets and i can't get any concrete info about them... I would have also done a vs Arauco but i cannot get that around here.

Hey guys this is my first post! Seems like a great forum with knowledgeable members, so anyways... What is the best stuff to seal an enclosure with? Silicone? Caulking? Which type?

Well I pulled the trigger and I got 2 evil 18s. A lot of my friends are telling me 4th order bandpass I'm not completely sold on doing it. One of my friends has the same Subs and paid for a custom design for his vehicle where sealed is 5.5 cubes ported is 14.8. SSA recommends 4.5 - 6.25 sealed. I realize that is strictly for a sealed box, but my question is that 5.5 that they have designed for him is only big enough for 1 sub. Is the design rules different with 4th orders? I'm leaning more towards just a regular ported but my thought process was for an extra 2-3cu tops why not have the same set up?

so a friend built this box for my 2 sa 12s its 34 inches wide 16 inches tall 22.75 inches deep port is 16.75 deep with no bend and 5.25 wide running off a sundown sax 1200d , just going to use it for daily driver no spl , i like counrty rock and some rap music . re box calculator says its like 36hz and torres box calculator says like 42 hz ,i was hpoping for 35hz could i just legthen the port a little or narrow the port to acheive this

I just buy a pair of RE from the SE 10" DVC 4ohm and i wanna a ask you for your recomendation of power for does to subs. how much power i can use to make it burp with out burning them? and last, how mucho cubic feets i make the box for spl use? thanks

hey guys one of my buddies says a nice cheap effective meathod for sound deadening is resisto found in roofing sections in homehardware stores... apparently its not as good as the top dynamat or raammat but he says its pretty much the same stuff as fatmat which is cement based (not Butyl). can anyone confirm? i would be real interested to use this stuff (if it works) on my trunk lid and a bit of the back of my trunk to stop trunk raddling. thx -phil

Any thing I should know or be wary of? 5 1/2" blade? 7 1/2"? Corded? Cordless?

I plan on building a box in the near future. Which of these would be best to build with and if there is any sound difference between them? Thanks, Matt Cusack