SPL & SQ / Fabrication

i have no experience in enclosure construction at all and have been tearing through forums for some helpful advise in enclosure designs. I am pretty confused at this point about some things and was wondering if anyone could clear it up? I am under the impression that if a certain speaker is in a smaller enclosure that it will handle more power and a larger enclosure will be more efficient (less box rise). so if that is true, will they be equal in spl if they receive the same amount of power (after rise) rather its in a "smaller" or "larger" enclosure? i have also heard of people covering ports to play with their tuning, is this just a solid cover reducing the height/width…

Ok, so I called Pioneer to check and see what they recommended for a square port and they told me 1.65 ft^3 per sub 7in^2 of port per sub 6" deep. Which seems SUPER tiny, but when my boy (BngBlzr) had 4 TS-W306DVC's in his blazer with the same specs, shit was loud. So I got the box all built, and I am NOT IMPRESSED. So what do you guys think for port, I don't want to rebuild the whole box, preferably just the front where the port is. The link is to my facebook photo album where pics of the box are. I am trying to locate my piece of paper with the dimensions written on it to throw that in here for you guys to play with too. LMK what you guys think cause from hearing his 4 …

Current setup for my 15" Xcon: Sealed enclosure with dimensions - H: 17" W: 32" D: 15" Total space I have is: So I want to do sub up, port side firing w/ aero ... Does this looks good in Torres' calculator???:

Anyone ever built a box for 99-06 ext can gmc or Chevy truck? I am trying to make one but don't have my truck until 2 weeks from now since it's getting painted. I mainly just need some max dimensions or an existing design. I appreciate any help

I think i wanna run a buss bar only across the ground terminals of 3 batts in the rear of my vehicle. I can't safely run one for both power and ground if you are wondering. Anyway, the reason why i would want to run one for ground is so i can just run all 3 of my amps ground out to the batt's ground buss bar. This way i can run multi runs of ground wires off of the buss bar, let's say 2 runs of 1/0 off the left and 2 runs of 1/0 off the right. Where exactly do i go to get one and how do i know if it's thick enough... if it'll fit on my batts, etc... they are for kinetiks so i know i can take the posts out of the batt to bolt it back down. I found a site that was selling a…

edit denim: temp. removed due to non members leaching, not cool but huge props to shane for being nice enough to post it up for us

does anyone have any rituals before they go in the lane?

so this last weekend i went to my first ever spl competition and i didnt meter as well as i would have hoped but people were nice enough to help me out. one of the suggestions was find the right hertz for my truck. so i was hoping someone on here has a truck like or knows someone that has a truck like mine and knows the right hertz for my truck. i have a two door tahoe i have 4 12'' ppi pcx subs in a 6.5 cubic foot box with two 6'' round ports tuned at 32 hertz. i got told that i need to make a square wooden port and it needs to be at least 18'' in length i dont know if thats right or not so id thought id ask. i plan on making another new port this weekend for my next c…

ok im making my first attempt at a custom box. its for 1 sd12 in the trunk of a honda accord planing on sub facing back and ports facing up to go through the rear deck. plywood (no mdf at local building store) 3/4 inch depth 18" w 20" h 14" port (1) L 12" dia.3 if my calculations are right box is 2.21 ft3 tuned to 34.15 sub displacement is .10 so that should net me a 2.11ft3 box (damn i hate math) am i anywhere close? or even headed in the right direction? any input would be great cause right now its in a cookie cutter Q-logic box (1.5 ported and its starving for air) thanks guys and gals

hey guys one of my buddies says a nice cheap effective meathod for sound deadening is resisto found in roofing sections in homehardware stores... apparently its not as good as the top dynamat or raammat but he says its pretty much the same stuff as fatmat which is cement based (not Butyl). can anyone confirm? i would be real interested to use this stuff (if it works) on my trunk lid and a bit of the back of my trunk to stop trunk raddling. thx -phil

for thoes who have compeated in iasca or usac sq the question i have is where should the center of the stage be in the car. my personal prefrence is center of the steering wheel. i want to know if it should be right in front of you in front of the steering wheel or the center of the dash as you would need to look at the middle of the dash to imagin thats where the voices are coming from. which is the correct answer for competition i am runing 3way active and have time alignment to play with

I'm just wondering, being new to this forum. Who on here competes & who doesn't. Also, what sanctioning bodies are you all in? Also, any1 on here also on the CS&P forums?

I'm afraid of my port being too long.i am by no means an expert but here is what I got... 1 team fi 18v2- 1 scv 4000 a couple of extra battery's 130 amp alt stock "mechman 270 soon" big 3-dual runs of 0 through out my box whic isnt built yet is 24t-24d-44w with a slot port 22.5x6" I'm wanting to tune to 28 for lows. I want it to be fairly loud but it's no big deal if it isn't I just don't want a boomy box tuned to 40 lol. Any way with a tuning of 28 and that size box I figured around 12 cubes before port-and with the port being 46 or so inches long I'll land near 8cubes after port. which puts me near 28 hearts or so... problem is with a port that long will I run into reso…

So I had a box design done by someone that seems to be a reputable designer around the car audio forums, and I have a couple of questions about it. I have a FI BTL N2 12" D2 running on a SAZ-1500, 250amp alt, 0 ga wire throughout including big 3 and additional grounds throughout the engine compartment, XS Power d975 in the back, Optima yellow top up front. The design he gave me has a net volume of 4 cubes. Is that too big for that one sub? I told him I wanted a daily ground pounder that can kill some lows. Well it does destroy the low notes, but it seems to be pretty weak with the majority of rap/hip-hop songs, and doesn't sound real strong on rock or metal. I know the …

I'm trying to build a box for a single FI BL 15, fully loaded. I want it tuned around 32-33 hz. Also my trunk in my car is kinda small height wise, so I was wondering if it was possible to put the sub on the top of the box and lower the height a little bit so the sub doesnt get close to the top of the trunk. The port I want on the front. Is that possible? The dimensions I have so far are: Width - 32 Height - 14 Depth - 25 Port Height - 12.5 Port Width - 5 Port Length 1 - 19.25 Port Length 2 - 8 62.5 inches Total Port Area, 3.8 ft^3 for box. Tuned at ~32. Would it be possible to put the sub on top of the box with this design, and still have the port on the front?

I have been looking in to these two subs for months now reading everything I can. I am still stuck maybe some smart people can help me out. ok I am looking for high quality, clarity, accurate, punchy sound not so much loud. mainly SQ. I had two Pioneer TS-W309D4 in a sealed box at 1.15 Cu. Ft. Air Space per sub. powered by a Pyle PLA2678. I liked this sound it sounded nice punchy. but I wanted something better so this guy told me about FI and Audio Pipe amps . so then I got a FI SSD 12 with only interior leads. powered by a AUDIOPIPE APSM-1500 and in 2cu ft. of air space. tuned to 32hz ported. it got so loud my nose flap would shake and it was awesome and still …

Does anyone know anything about designing a bandpass box. I have a pair of 12 w6s in a ported box w 2 6 inch areo ports tuned to 44 hz and a jl 1000/1. I can do 143.4 db at a 48-50 hz tone. Im trying to get in the uper 140s without reaching the 2500-4000 watt amplifier range. Any help on design principals or general advise on how to get louder would be greatly appreciated.

I got some new midbass speakers and ready to mount them in the door. Problem is, there is very little depth due to the window frame directly behind the speaker mount. I had planned on making some door pods, since my panel is really flat with the pocket removed. Here is what I have to work with. Buddy told me- Hey! You have a large opening in the middle of the door. You can make a baffle, bolt it to the door, and be done! Yeah, that would be pretty easy but I think soundstage would be terrible. Here is a pic relative to postion. Am I wrong? I tried hooking up the driver and moving it around. Kinda hard to tell holding it with one hand and moving it around the door a…

I'm currently building my first 6th order bandpass enclosure. I need a way to make the top panel secure to the box, but easily removable for access to the sub once the top is put on. Here is what I have done thus far. I have also added weather stripping all around to prevent leaking. I'm looking for suggestions for the best way to go about this other than glue and screws. Thanks in advance.

I purchased this sub on closeout from Parts Express earlier this year when TC-Sounds was filing for bankruptcy. My daily enclosure is a sealed pair of RL-i8's. I'd like to build a ported box for this single TC-Sounds 12" sub but I'm a complete noob when it comes to enclosure design. My typical listening style is loud SQ; typical artists include Smashing Pumpkins, NiN, and Daft Punk. Any suggestions? This is just for fun, so feel free to be creative.

Okay, so there are two ways I can go about this. In the back of a Grand Cherokee I want either 2 15s or 4 12s. I was looking at buying 2 Dual 12 aeroport boxes from Davetheboxguy. Just hooking up 4 Soundqubed HDS200s and calling it a day. OR I could design and create my own box for 2 15s (I was thinking SSA ICON or the HDS300s or perhaps the HDC 3.0) The amplifier will possibly be a BC2000d good for 2250 rms. I could step it up if need be if somebody could recommend an amp that doesn't cost much more but will give enough power. Should I go with 4 12s, or 2 15s. (Yes I know its preference but I am good with either one so help me out here) and I am going to start workin…

My question is, is it worth it to double up on 3/4" mdf on all sides, or should i just strengthen the side holding the sub? 18" Fi Bl--- p chamfer and flatwind 39"x18"x22" (sub is on 39x22 side) tuned to 34.4xxx hz any suggestions? thanks. also, this is a daily driver, not going to a termlab anytime soon, just want it to be a good, solid setup for daily driving.

I am pretty serious about doing a blowthrough to my F-150 in the next few months. I am pretty settled on 2 18"s on 4000 watts (will be more with upgrades in the future.) I was thinking of a 4th order bandpass box for them but I want to be loud on low hertz (like around 30-35). How can I accomplish this? Also, what would be better: 2 18" or 4 15" all on 4000 watts? Like I said, I want to be loud but hit low.

okay guys, i am lookin to build a new box for my 2 12" kicker cvr's, i am wanting around 34hz for tuning and here are the dimensions i have to work with, 39"w x 17"h x 17.5"d and plans would be great i am either looking for the port and subs facing the same direction or subs foward firing and port side firing, any plans would be nice, and i am looking for a slot port, i am not going to mess with a pipe since i dont have a hole saw, thanks in advance.

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