SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I plan on building a box in the near future. Which of these would be best to build with and if there is any sound difference between them? Thanks, Matt Cusack

So I am stuck, cannot decide what to do or which direction to even go at this point, need some assistance and I will try to make this short as to avoid the TLDR syndrome. To start off here is what I have currently in the vehicle (a 2009 Honda Fit), (2) Sundown SA 12’s wired to 1ohm on a SAZ1500D. They currently sit in a ported box that is 20”Hx31”Wx16”D, with (3) 4” aero ports 12” long, yielding a box of 4cuft net, tuned at 38Hz subs up port back. While this has been the loudest box I have built, it’s not the only one. I built another 17”x39.5”x16” with (1) 6” aero port tuned at 34Hz sub/port up, and finally another with the same dimensions however this last one was a slo…

Hi everyone. I'm a new guy here on your forum. I'm going to need some help from any REAL GOOD box designers here. I just bought (waiting for it to be shipped to me) a 15" Kicker L5 and i'm going to power it with a Hifonics BXI1206D amp. I'm currently driving a '01 Expedition and i took out the 3rd row seat so i have A LOT of space to use here. I'd like to go with a vented box, something that will give me some pounding bass but clean. This is what i'll be using: JVC KD-AVX2 headunit (2) audiovox headrest monitors DLS 5 1/4 component speakers (front) DLS 5 1/4 speakers (rear) HIFONICS BXi1206D - for sub HIFONICS ZXI6406 - for front and rear speakers KICKER L5 15" DVC 4ohm …

im makiing a temp system for now in my 95 grand prix. i am needing help on how much port area is ideal for these subs. going to be pushed by a alpine mrp1000 at 2 ohms. the sub is a brand new alpine type r 12. thank you for your time.

Hey all here is a noob question that I need answered.How do I double baffle where my subs are going to be?Like do I just glue 2 peices of MDF together or do I have to do something differenet besides glue?I know this is a major noob question but I am going to be attempting to build a box for my 4 10's and I want to double baffle and flush mount where my subs are going to be and wasn't 100% sure how to do it.Thanks in advance. HawkEye

I've recently wanted to start making a horn style box, I've build one on accident before, but didnt know it was a horn box. Now im just needing some advice or basic tips on building and tuning of them.

Hey guys. New to the board here so I hope this isn't a played out topic...... but the only design I can find on SSA's site is for a single sub. Is there one floating around somewhere? The only one I could find on the net was here ----> http://www.*****.com/board/topic/158983-need-a-ported-box-design-for-2-12-ssa-dcons/ Is this a good one to try? I noticed all the youtube vids I've seen with 2 the box looks like the single enclosure design, with the port to the far side of the face. Thanks in advance.

Vehicle :2002 nissan frontier crewcab Location in the vehicle:back seat Space available (Length x Width x Height):26x50x31 Subwoofer make and model:fi bl Subwoofer Size:18 Number of Subwoofers:2 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.):aero What type of music do you like?:rap Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?:everyday Tuning Freq (Hz):32-36 Volume :around 19ish i think i am building a box for my truck i am taking the backrest out of the backseat to make some more room the dimensions are with it out i want to do subs either facing forward or up and the ports down the middle facing forward but i need help with how to tune the box with aerports i want around 14cuft of air…

I am doing a 4th order in my GF's 1998 Mustang GT convertible. The box will be where the back seat should be since the trunk is sealed off. She has 2 db Drive K9 12"s and a db Drive A7 1,500. I want to do a 4th order bandpass with a woofers behind either seat facing into the ported wide which wiill port into thr middle. = I am thinking 1 cube each sealed with 2 each in the ported side. So 2 sealed 4 ported with 80-100^2 port tuned to 48Hz. Any thoughts?

All 3 of these can be found at Home Depot. The goals i'm looking for is the best stiffness, yet no heavier than MDF (96lbs). All sheeting would be 3\4". I read and read about these sheets and i can't get any concrete info about them... I would have also done a vs Arauco but i cannot get that around here.

Hi All, Now at my job i search McMaster-Carr very frequently. and today i decided "hey lets see what they have for sound stuff" (cause they have EVERYTHING! lol) so i did a quick search for "Sound" and found they have some nice sound barrier material and some nice sound dampening stuff, looks just like the Sound Deadener Showdown Stuff just thicker and with a backing ( http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi ) any ways i was just wondering if the stuff on mcmaster-carr is good sound barrier or good sound dampening? Links Below: McMaster-Carr McMaster-Carr McMaster-Carr McMaster-Carr

Looking for someone to help me design an enclosure with a kerfed port. I have been trying out doing it on scrap wood in my garage for a while and wanting to try it out on one of my enclosures. I have someone wanting an enclosure built right now and figured it would be a good one to start with. Its for 2 sundown sa8v2's in a trunk . I was told there Going to be on 1-1500 rms. . .Max dimensions - 30 wide 10 tall and 16 deep. (Ill ask if any of the dimensions can get bigger) Wanting it subs facing up and port back. Tuned in the low 30s. 30-34. . . . . Listens to mostly rap music.

I will be building a box for 2 Sundown E 15s. The subs are dual 4ohm going to wire them to 1ohm on a audiopipe AP10001D. So they will be gettin a little more than rms wattage but I dont see that being a problem. Thats where i need help. I know on Sundowns website they recommend ported 3.0-4.0ft^3 @ 35 hz. What would yall recommend on box size and hz since i will be overpowering a little. Subs are going in a 2005 Silverado crew cab z71. I have the 60/40 sectioned backseat. I will possibly removing the 60 part for box. So pretty much what i need to know is that: ft^3 size/hz level SIngle chamber or dual? Daily application not sure on dimensions of section on backseat but i …

Alright, so I messed up on my port. The port it skinnier and longer instead of wider and shorter. I have a BTL, and whenever it plays the lows, I feel like its not hitting them as hard as it should sometimes. I guess I don't know how its supposed to hit in the 30hz - 38 hz region. People say songs like Juice box will hit hard, and it barely hits hard for me it seems like... Same goes for some other low songs. Here is a pic of the port in the box: Here is the port that should be 33hz: Here is the port now (the 21" measurement comes from the 22", I had to cut an 1" off to get it to equal the port opening on the back of the box): Could someone tell me what this tuning wou…

Okay, I have a guy that lives behind me that has three 12" Kicker CVR's . He currently has them in a very crappy box and is wanting me to throw a better box together for him. I stand to make a few bucks from this project. that is all. there is no possibility of him competing or even keeping this setup long term. just a better box than he has and some cash in ol' chop's pocket. So for the sake of getting good responses, i am not looking to buy these, i only want to get some good input on what volume and tunning would be good for them to get loud with. not a fart box, but i am sure he has no interest in catching the lows. I have not used these subs before..... off the top o…

In the back of my escape there is little room, especially with the rear strut towers protruding about four inches out each side. The space I have to work with is as follows: 40" wide, 24" deep on top, 32" deep on the bottom. which comes out to be about 10 cubes. The height is what can move, although 18" is ideal. I'd like to keep the box rectangular but if I have to make the back slanted for space that's fine. I want the box to be ported but I have very little room. What type of port should I use and will this work for two 18's? Brand is yet to be determined, I'm still in the planning stage.

Got a question: Noticed that spl meters seem to have a simple pressure sensor in them. Does anyone know the formula to convert SPL to PSI? If so, I may just make a home brew SPL meter to test changes made. I have a 3-bar map sensor sitting around which can read the barometric at first for calibration, then anything after that. Or am I way off base here?

what is the best battery for street A. 650cubic in or less. from what ive found the nsb75 kinetik hc2000 and powermaster d2700 seem to be at the top. what bettery is the best and how much better is it than the others. if anyone knows of another incredible battery im missing let me know.

im in need of a 3- 4" aeroports at parts express. their kits only go up to a 17" port tube. what should i do when i need atleast 21-24" of port length? i went to my local home depot and compared the pvc pipe with a 3" areoport i had laying around and they do not match up. so do i need to order "special" tubing for my application? thanks!

This has nothing to do with audio, so if this is in the wrong section, I apologize and feel free to move it. The package tray for my hatch was broken when I bought the car. Looks like someone put something too heavy on it and cracked the structure inside. Can I lay chop mat down on top of the carpet and resin it or will the resin not adhere to the carpet? I'm just looking to do the underside of this to make it rigid enough to hold it's shape again when it's in the car. I've heard you should lay rope or something similar to give the mat a corrugated look for linear strength. Here's a picture of the underside of the tray where I'd like to strengthen it. The carpet is hook…

Crown Victorias have some pretty big trunks, i drive one. Heres a pictures Is there a way that i can place ONE piece of MDF and mount it somehow onto my trunk so i don't have to make a whole box. Its my car so i can use up that space however i want, place it anywhere in the trunk.( dont' have to worry about groceries etc.) I want to use 1 board, and the trunk itself to act as the rest of the box. Is that possible or will it be bad for my sub? Any help in this area will help, just bought a SSD 15. Or if you know any other simple ways to not have to go threw the trouble of making a box.

So here goes... I have a 98' Mustang GT Convertible. I want bass in it. It Doesn't have to be anything outrageous.(though my Boyfriend said I should put 4 12's in it) I was wondering if yall had any ideas on what i could do? I Don't Really want it in the trunk though ,for one..trunk rattle really annoys me, and I like to see the woofer excursion. Second My trunk is sealed off from the cabin of my car.. My Boyfriend and someone else Mentioned to me That maybe a clam shell would work in the back of my car, If i took the backseat out. I'm not really sure if theirs any other possibilities that could go on..considering it is a convertible. If there is though, I am open for s…

I want to do IB in my 1995 Acrua Integra hatchback. I am aware that I need to seal off the front wave from the rear wave but how much so? If you have seen the rear hatch area do you have any ideas how I can acomplish this. I was gonna remove the faux rear deck and put up a wood deck to mount the woofers and then seal off the seat area. But there is the issue of plastic paneling...do I need to remove it all? and then there is the issue of where the deck will touch the hatch. I cannot seal it together because I need to be able to access my trunk. Any ideas?

so a friend built this box for my 2 sa 12s its 34 inches wide 16 inches tall 22.75 inches deep port is 16.75 deep with no bend and 5.25 wide running off a sundown sax 1200d , just going to use it for daily driver no spl , i like counrty rock and some rap music . re box calculator says its like 36hz and torres box calculator says like 42 hz ,i was hpoping for 35hz could i just legthen the port a little or narrow the port to acheive this

Ok so i'm pretty much done wt my box, will post pics soon enough, but. I'm not going to be able to reach my subs, once done, so if i connect each + and - to a bolt and nut on the box, that should work just fine correct? I'm sure i've seen it done before. I just would rather not run long lengths of wire to the amp.