SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Subs: 2 dual 2 12" sa's Amp: kicker 2500.1 Car: 01 monte carlo Currently I have a 3.5cu box with a slot port, both fired towards the rear. They were fired into the cabin and I got a 140.x. I was told firing them the other way (how they are now) would post better numbers. I've yet to get metered though and can't tell a difference by ear. The plan is to build a new box with a 6" aero port firing to the right with subs facing back. Can anyone chime in with a better suggestion or confirm this would post good numbers? -Thanks

any inputs and comments for my box design it will be for 2 10" Chaos it is aproximately 3.23cubic feet gross volume, 2.5 net volume will be tuned at aproximately 33hz will be going into a single cab was done on google sketchup the one on the left is with all the pieces seprate, and the right one is the final product thank you

so im gonna go active again.. im going to use the new sundown neopro8's head unit us going to be a Pioneer FH P8800BT not the bestfor active but its what i have. amp is sundown 100.4 v1 so im open on tweeters... i used these https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_229_324&products_id=1466 last time.. they were decent, and small... and i could mouth them with out alot of custom work or cuttin a 3 inch hole! but im open to seeing what advice is giving. i also wanted to ask a few questions. last time i went active i bought 3 sets of tweeters before i got dialed... i would LOVE not to do that this time. so would these help me stay out of rang…

I am building a box for 2 SA-12's for the trunk of my altima. I want to have a square port between the 2 subs on the front of the box, looking somewhat like this: O | O sub port sub Using 3/4" MDF and outside dimensions, my box's height can only have ~ a height of 16.5", a width of 33", and a depth of 16.5" (however, the depth can be altered a good bit if needed) I need to know what dimensions to make the port and the dimensions of the box itself if anyone could help. Thanks.

15" Xcon .... Was thinking about going sealed but then the idea of aero ports was brought up and I saw Stef's and loved the look and thought ... "Hey, a sealed enclosure is just a big box.. and a ported with aeros is just some tubing thrown inside of it and cut to the right length for tuning... I can do that.." Should I just do this? I was looking at PrecisionSoundProducts and said I could do this... Not much more work that building a sealed enclosure... Right??? So I looked up on their site for ports calculations and realized after understanding it a bit better that the Torres calculator does it as well... Here is what I come up with and it seem correct... Let me know wh…

Okay, so I have a quick question. I am planning on getting 2 Sundown SA-15's. I already have an enclosure built by the local shop, but I believe it's for an SUV. It fits in my trunk, so I was considering just rollin' with it. Only problem is, it's subs up, port back. It's 3.1ft^3 per sub, which seems fine.. but I could also have someone build me a custom enclosure that would be more of a traditional trunk style enclosure. I'm trying to save as much money as possible. What should I do? What would sound better? Thanks.

How does this box look for a SA-8? I listen to mostly hip-hop and r&b and I will be placing forty-five degree cutouts in the corners so the port area stays the same all the way through and sub will be inverted.

Got new vehicle, well new to me and I beleive this to be what I will use for my project. Wife extremely unhappy that I want to do this but that is the way it is. She'll live & I'll be Boomin' !! My goal in this setup is of course "LOUD" next is hairtricks and a daily ground-pounder. My concern is port size (to small or to large) Need input on ideas on what I am putting together. Vehicle: 2002 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2 V6 Subs: 4 SA15's Amps: 2 Sundown 2000D's Enclosure will be built as a wall using trim to seal it out to the B pillar. Will be using 3/4" MDF doubled to make all sides 1.5" thick. Calculations are using allowance for .7 woofer displacement and 1 for bracing an…

What i want is the box to be smooth, without being able to see the screws so i can paint the box and have it look very smooth. I have to ways im thinking of going about this. 1- This is the one i feel as the better of the two....sink the screws a little further into the mdf and put a filler then sand it smooth or 2- After the box glue has dried take the screw out then use a filler and sand? Is there any reason for the screws to stay in the wood or can i take them back out? Thanks, Jack3d

Alright so i posted this on an other forum but no one really had any good insignt into what they think caused the tunning of my box become so high from what I tunned it to. Alright here where Im at this is what the box looks like inside its ruffly a little over 7sq ft each side , port is 17.5 inches tall and 6" wide lenght wise its 19" then it L's with the smaller side 8.5" for a total lenght of about 28". So i was thinking i was going to be tuned to about 34hz well after I got metered turns out im at 57hz any idea where I fucked up?

I should be seeing a Orion HCCA 15 pretty soon and I'm going to want to build a box for it. I found the instruction manual and my dumbass can't see the inner port wall (L shape). I'm cutting pieces of paper pretending its the box but I'm still lost. I'm sure I'll be laughed at but still. http://www.directedd...08-11MLweb2.pdf I'm looking at page 30 in link. Thanks for your patience.

has anyone designed a box for a single cab silverado It will be for 2 10 chaos,trying for it to be at 33 hz If u have, tell me, Thanks

I just picked up a NIB sw9122 and all that was in the box was 1 page of the owners manual and the mounting hardware. So I need to know what works good for a ported enclosure? How many cubes, freq., and port area? It will be running off a Audio Art 100hc, so in the neighborhood of 1000W. I am thinking somewhere 2-2.25^3 ported to 32hz but not sure on port area, seems this sub will move a lot of air.

So I decided to pick up another Sa10 so I can wire down to one ohm. Now I just need to figure out how to fit these in my Infiniti I30. I've always done sub back, port back but can't with the four tens. I'm thinking about doing port and subs up, I've also thought about subs up port through the armrest. I'm capable of designing and building the box, just wanted to know if anyone had any advice about the layout. Thanks -Rick

Hey guys just looking for a little input here I have been doing some measuring and test fitting cardboard templates to see what I can fit behind my seats without having to loss a lot of leg room. I came up with this set up. Dimensions 13”H x 20”W x 5”depth1 x 8.5”depth2, with 3/4 MDF it gives me .646 ft3. The Sundown SA-10 specs say it will do fine in a sealed enclose at .5 ft3 so after displacement I should be right on track with .546 ft3. My only real concern here is the mounting depth at 6” I should be in the clear right?

Putting this into a grand caravan, middle seats up, backseat stowed. Going ported, thinking 30-33hz tuning wise, any recommendations? Going to run it off a Sundown 1500d, so box size recommendations? Also, will be running the stock alt for awhile (160 factory). Doing my big 3 upgrade with 1/0 and a single run of 1/0 for now....later upgrades will be wiring and alt before anything else...also no sound deadening for now...also looking for any recommendations for sub/port orientation? sub/port back towards hatch, sub up/ports toward hatch, sub up/port facing side....anyone with experience in a minivan would be nice, not that most of you have one, but a guy can hope lol. than…

The magic numbers for the DCON 10 seems to be 1.25 cu ft, tuned to 32hz. Does the vehicle really have any significant play on that? I don't compete or anything. I just hear this thing really performs with little power. I've got all the components of my budget system except the sub and box. For some reason it's the hardest thing for me to decide on. I really wanted to get away with a prefab box, but they are all tuned around 38hz. What's the point of buying a decent sub if you're not going to maximize it's potential? Anyway, As far as box building goes are there any walkthroughs or step by step type guides? I can figure out all the dimensions and cuts but the assem…

So after using the Torres' box calculator I have come up with these panel sizes Sub diameter: 14.125” Top: 33 x 16 Bottom: 33 x 16 Sides: 15 x 14.5 Front: 33 x 15 (double baffle) = .21cubes disp Back: 33 x 15 ________________ According to the calculator I am left with 3.55 cubes for a sealed enclosure... Does that sound right? The lumberyard near me said they could make the cuts for me.... Any quick and calculated responses are much needed... Thanks -Danny

I've been playing with a port calculator and I find that 30 1/8"x3/4"(which just happens to be my wall thickness) holes will tune the box to a nice 30.5Hz. Now, is there any reason for NOT doing this??? Thought I might arrange them in the shape of an SSA logo for effect.

can someone help me, im going to home deopt today, need some dimensions. can anyone help, i would greatly appreciate it

this is going to be my layout for a new box ports gonna be up top they will be coming through the decklid and the subs are gonna be firing towards the trunklid.what do yall think of this setup?

i pieced together a simple system for a friend of mine and installed everything, only thing left to do is make the box and slap it in there! we both a totall newbs at sub enclosures and already failed miserably at making one for this sub (long story short, it turned out to be a fart box. box is sub forward port back which makes it interchangeable in positions 5 ways which we like a lot) so i need you guys to help us out on a box design/specs, i dont wanna be pushy but we need the specs by tomorrow because he really wants to build a box thats right and hear his sub how it should be already. hes a carpenter so the woodworking skills and tools are all here and ready. the ma…

should i go to home depot, who has cheap but good stuff? and what kind of calk screws ETC.

Okay guys, I need your help on this one. Now ive built a few boxes and understand the basic concepts/calcs of everything but have never built a wall before. My brother asked me yesterday if I would build him one yesterday and thats why im posting this today. Can anyone give me some tips and explain the order at which i should start it? **Now Im not asking you to explain every single thing (tuning or port size or anything like that which would depend on the subs, which he hasnt decided on yet) Thanks for any input and as always its appreciated.

Alright, so here it is. I have been looking around and i can't find any topic that talk about building a L port or how to build an L port. I am going to have to do this with my box (unfortunatly) and i would like to see how some of them were done. I have looked all over "SPL & SQ / Fabrication" and "Build Logs" but i can't seem to find it. I found one persons video of him doing it but only the last cut. It would be awesome if i could get some real experience about the "L" port and any tips/tricks. Hopefully this topic will help more people out then just me! I look forward to seeing what you guys have to say!