SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I am looking for good SQ 12s... I have two Skar vvx 12s now and they do not sound good at all. They shake my car like crazy but I can not feel the bass inside or out of the car.. So what kind of subs should I look for to get the best SQ in my Chrysler 300? Bass I can feel and not see!

I am going the wall route and am in the designing stages to make sure everything is going to fit. The issue I am having is with my ports... I can get my tuning around 35 which is where I want it when there is only 4 inches ^2 of port per square inch but I know that is WAYYY low. When I get my ratio of port in^3 to box volume right my tuning ends up in the teens.... what can I do? The dimensions I'm going with are 48 inches wide, 36.5 inches tall, 33 inches front to back. I just need some help with tuning... this is going to be a daily heavily demoed setup. edit** and the port in this picture is 17x8 which is about as big as I'm going to be able to go. And this setup is f…

hello ssa and people with grand prixs lol. i wanna but a 15 fi bl in the trunk of my 97 gp. but idk how i can make a big enough box but still fit in in through the trunk. people with gbs can i get some box dimentions please that would be great. thanks for veiwing.

All 3 of these can be found at Home Depot. The goals i'm looking for is the best stiffness, yet no heavier than MDF (96lbs). All sheeting would be 3\4". I read and read about these sheets and i can't get any concrete info about them... I would have also done a vs Arauco but i cannot get that around here.

Does anyone in the eastern North Carolina area make kickpods or know someone who does? I'm not terribly skilled with fiberglass.

I want to know how to design my own bandpass enclosure. Can anyone link me to something to read? i wanna do 18s in my cut through but the box is going to have to be bandpass as my opening is only about 10x40. and i dont want someone to just design me one. i wanna know why the sealed chamber has to be this big and why the ported chamber has to that big and how to tune them and what not. i know its not an easy thing to grasp but you had to start somewhere... how are you guys designing them?

When building a box inside the trunk whats the best way to start? im getting a box pre designed with all the cuts i just need to assemble the box inside the trunk

http://cgi.ebay.com/4-0-CU-FT-CUSTOM-PORTED-BOX-fits-KICKER-CVR15-CVX15-/160554332666?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2561c8b1fa It would be going with a Sundown nightshade. I am very curious to hear what you have to say about this, being that its from ebay. But 4.0 CU. Ft. tuned to 32 hz seem perfect. I know building one will be a little cheaper but it probably wont come out as nice and would save me the headache of building one myself. But if you recommended that I just build one myself then thats what ill do.

Hey does anyone have an SPL meter that they are selling? Or does anyone have one that lives near Akron or Cleveland Ohio that you could meter for me? I'd appreciate any help. Thanks!

Ok. I have a 01 Ford F-250, Crew cab. I've been doing a lot of reading since my last thread. Got a better idea of what I want. I just need help deciding which route to take. First, I want a good staging and imaging. At first I didn't really care about this, but now I almost can't listen to my setup now because I can hear each speaker individually. Its really driving me crazy. As far as having a perfect reproducing of the recording, meh, I don't care so much about that. I don't want it way offf, but I want my tastes. Also, for step one I won't have a processor, I will eventually, and I'm sure I won't be able to dial everything in until, but I think I can live with it. Op…

im in need of a 3- 4" aeroports at parts express. their kits only go up to a 17" port tube. what should i do when i need atleast 21-24" of port length? i went to my local home depot and compared the pvc pipe with a 3" areoport i had laying around and they do not match up. so do i need to order "special" tubing for my application? thanks!

Alright, well as stupid as this Topic sounds, i have had a lot of questions from other people and myself. When you are building a box we all know that people don't just use 1 layer of MDF, they use 2-3 in heavy applications. In my instance, building a wall. So when i first started thinking/building my wall, i asked a older friend of mine (who is an aerospace engineer) to help me with building this. The only reason i add this in is to try and explain that he isn't a complete idiot. He also explained to me that because he works with airplanes he understands the concept of how vibrations cause things to break and how things have to be sealed. Not only that but he is very cra…

this is kind of a silly question, but im in need of a little help. im starting my box tomorrow for my FI BL 15" and curious what kind of screws and glue i will need... OR any other materials i should get together. the box should be just under a 4 cu ft. i picked up a huge sheet of MDF today. just felt like asking you guys what you would recommend before i buy. THANKS!!

im not that good with google sketchup, but i was wondering which design would be better for a trunk setup porting through the rear deck? 33d 17h 35w with three 6" aero ports two sundown z 15's saz-3500d

From what I've been reading, using a ported box will give you a 3 db gain in output, as will using a second subwoofer. Right now I'm running a ported Dcon. So, if I were to buy another one, it would pretty much be a waste of money to run them sealed? I should be getting the same amount of output from one ported as I would from two sealed? (Someone should really change the title under my name from "Member" to "Forum idiot". )

I have a FI SSD 15. (bp power, flat coil) I currently have it in a 18x18x38 box tuned to 34-36hz somewhere in there. aprox 4 cubes. Im thinking of building a new box, what should i tune it to, and how many cubes? i find my box has a slight bit of port noise because there are no 45s and it doesnt go as quite low as i want it to. Iv heard other ssd 15's hit harder than mine, so im trying to squeeze every thing i can out of the sub. also with the box the way it is now, what should my Amp be set at? Lowpass and subsonic? If it matters: its going in a crew cab GMC, powered by a AQ1200. thanks, in advance all help is appreciated

I am building an enclosure for my 12 xcon and this is the first enclosure iv ever built so please let me know if i am doing anything wrong. I had my 3/4 mdf cut and i was going to use wood glue and wood screws. when i went to put in the screws into the vertical pieces of wood, the wood split. I tryd every screw i could think of any i couldnt figure anything out.. also how do you screw into the wood after you have just put wood glue on. the wood just slips around when you try to screw?

I have some final questions for my box build. I wanted to use two 8" aero ports that i was going to run through the rear deck to the box. Both ports will have to be 32 inches long which is two long. If i switch to two 6" will that be enough port area for two z 15's? I need to switch to a smaller diameter ports so they will be shorter. What are the pros/cons of doing this?

I will not be competing in SPL contests, i just want LOUD bass (doesnt every basshead). The sub i will be getting is a Fi BTL either a 12 or 15, unknown due to money, I think a ported box would be the best, but my buddy told me that bandpass boxes are better. He said a 6th order box would be good, i have no idea what a bandpass or 6th order box is. Are they louder for the daily user? As stated in title, the car i currnetly have is a 2006 Toyota 4Runner, in it, i have mids and highs by pioneer, and they sound good.

i have two fi bl 15`s n i wanna build a box for them tuned to 32hz but i have no idea wat size the box needs to be ? the build is for my xterra

I would love to use PR for car audio application. Before I start designing the system I have a couple questions. 1. Will the automobile environment be too abusive for PRs? With a vehicle in motion, going over bumps and accelerating/deaccelerating, cause the PR's cone to move affecting performance? 2. I have read that downward firing a PR will cause the diaphragm to be displaced downward. If the PR is mounted cone up will the cause a similiar situation (diaphram sinks towards spiders)? In my current vehicle the only way I can use PRs is with cones pointed upward.

im starting my new box build soon and curious what size aero port to use. the box will be 4 cu ft. should i use 1 6" port or 2 4" ports i used psp-inc.com and both would fit with the size of my box. just curious what u guys would use!? Thanks!!

OK as of right now my box this like this. And now I wanna do this to it, if I take 1" out of the top and make it 18" tall it will make the box 7ft^3 net, and now i take 3/4" mdf and put is on the inside of the port and make the port 4.5H by 18.5W and keep it 16.5D It should tune it to 35Hz. The red is the new MDF in the port can I do this and will it work?!?!?

Time for a new design for my extended cab S10...2 sundown SA 12's going in, which way should the subs and port face, I have not seen much info on enclosures for these small trucks and I would like to have a plan before I start the project........I would appreciate any help

Okay, I will be finished up my box tonight and had a few questions before I close it all up and get it hooked up. *I've seen online that it says to put weatherstripping around the hole for the sub before putting the sub in the box? This true? *And I've seen people use resin on the inside or their boxes to help the structure? This true aswell? Thanks for the help and thanks to everyone that has helped throughout my first build!!