SPL & SQ / Fabrication

On bandpass enclosures, specifically 4th order for the moment, but I will be messing with 6th order later. I am always re-reading the diysubwoofers page. If anyone can reccomend books, sites, etc.... it would be great. Also an general rules of thumb too.

So i've read on numerous threads that the RE box calculator tunes a tad bit high. Personally, i'm a noob when it comes to making boxes so this RE calculator is just a great tool!! I use it mixed with Win Isd to make my box! i just really wish win isd had a slot port option So for people like me, and many other box designing noobs the RE calculator is awesome!! Its free, easy to use, you can see what changing port dimensions do to your tuning. So, does the Re calculator ALWAYS tune high? is it the same everytime? I'm curious because i'm desiging, or trying to, a box for my friend for his first gen 15" icon which i purchased for him. Also, on a side note, when designing…

Hey all.Ive decidied since my trunk is so small im going to do what ive always wanted to do.Wall my car.I have a 2001 galant and was wondering if it would be worth the money to wall it.I will use my 2 15" american bass xfl subs and my planet audio bb2 2400rms.I have a friend thats saying it wouldnt be worth walling because its not a hatchback car.So is he correct or would it be worth it? I will do some competing but I mainly want to be as louad as possible on music.

Just a for instance: Say you have an enclosure 40" wide x 32" long x 30" high, The port is 38.5" wide (facing forward), 6.5" in height, and 24.5" in length - tuned to approximately 34Hz (I'm assuming a driver XMax of 20mm.) The Net enclosure volume is 14.40 cubes, less driver displacement. You have the option of placing (4) 15" subs on the top baffle, or (9) 10" subs. Which do YOU choose, and why? What subs would YOU do? Roughly 1.5 cubes each for the 10's, or 3.37 for the 15's. Either way, it would be possible to run whatever amp at 1 ohm Mono - Strapped SAZ3500's, anyone? I'd be VERY interested to see/hear/speculate what the XCONS would do......

Okay guys, I need your help on this one. Now ive built a few boxes and understand the basic concepts/calcs of everything but have never built a wall before. My brother asked me yesterday if I would build him one yesterday and thats why im posting this today. Can anyone give me some tips and explain the order at which i should start it? **Now Im not asking you to explain every single thing (tuning or port size or anything like that which would depend on the subs, which he hasnt decided on yet) Thanks for any input and as always its appreciated.

So i went to the new shop opening up in my area and got to talking with the guys there and well one thing lead to another and i was cramming a box into the backseat of my volvo. Did i forget to mention it was for free? eaa free and after something ive decided on building a wall, yea not alot of people do 1 15" or 1 18" in a wall but this box fits no where else so why not? This box seems well constructed and after building my false floor which i am going to start with the new friends i made at Kustom Tints and Graphics 2, i honestly cant wait just because i liek how the box looks but im not sure if I AM A just kinda bolt the box down or build a baffle over the front and ma…

I am doing (2) Sundown Sa 8v2's on a Cresendo B2000. The box is going to be a little over 1 Cubic foot and am looking to do an aero port. I want the tuning to be around 30-33hz and need to know how i would calculate the dimensions for the port. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!

Im thinking about building a new box to try and improve sq in my setup a little. i have a 3.75 cu ft box with like 60 inches of port tuned to 32 now, slot port on one side of the two subs. this box is a little bigger than what my subs call for and is an awful lot of port area. im thinking about bringing the box down to 3.2 or smaller and using a 8 round port and flaring the ends tuning to 32. if my math is right 8 is 50 sq inches of port correct? im thinking about choking it down to 7" which is like 38~ and run @ 3 cu ft. im running like 1600-2000 watts BXI2006d would the round port sound better. as with the smaller box? edit" running 2 DC audio lvl4 12s. call for 1.5 c…

i just traded my one 12" MTX 8000 series for 2 10" MTX 6000 series (4 ohm). sounds like i got screwed but the 10 sounds so much better. now i want to get an enclosure for both because the guy i traded with only had an enclosure for one. the enclosure it is in now is about 1.1 cu. ft. it sounds pretty good, gets decently low and decently loud, but doesnt really exceed in either category. i listen to all kinds of rock and some rap occasionally. so i want an LSQ setup. i cant decide whether i want to go ported yet or not. i'd love to but not sure i have the money because i dont have the knowledge to build my own. i am just wondering what the perfect size sealed and port…

Made another video showing the rest of the kerfing process!

alright so I will start building a sub box pretty soon but I have an issue, there is a metal brace on the floor of my car going from one side to the other. can I work around it? or does the box have to be flat one all sides?

hey guys i have a 2006 toyota tundra access cab. currently my sub is in a 2.5cuft box tuned around 32hz. its much too small. it is being powered by a percision power black ice bk1300.1d. and i have been fiddling around on sketch up trying to make a box to fit nice and tight up against my seat in the back passenger side. the box will be roughly 4 cuft with 2 4" pvc ports. will this be enough port area for my sub? the box i have it in now has much too small of a port. i am planning to tune to around 30hz this time. sub will be roughly in the center of the two front seats firing foward, with the ports facing the drivers side. there will be one seat still usable in the rear b…

hey guys...just wondering what u guys would recommend to use or have used to keep your box from sliding around? i have a trunk car so mine just moves all over the place...? velcro? l-shaped metal corner brackets? open to ideas...

I am going, and I know team gates a a bunch of other big guns will be there, anyone else from here? I am rolling with Ray and the Caton Customs crew, but I am not going to show, I dont have time between then and now to prep my car, nor are my pods built yet

I need to make a snorkel for my truck so i need to build a fiberglass tube that goes through my fender and up the A pillar. how should i go about building a fiberglass tube in this manor? also what is the customary way to attach such a thing to the outside of the vehicle? thanks.

Hey everyone, Long time lurker here, finally decided to pull the trigger on a 12" ICON and would like recommendations for an enclosure. Given my driver choice I'm obviously going for sound quality. But who doesn't like a little bit of output? It will be going in an IS300 and run off of a PDX M12. My ICON will be seeing anywhere from 500-1k watts depending on where it blends best with my front stage. Anyway, I noticed that on the product information page for the ICON there are two different optimum enclosure size recommendations. Under the "Enclosure Recommendations" tab it lists ported optimal as 2.25 ft^3 @29-34hz whereas the "Pre-Designed Enclosures" tab has a l…

do aero ports have to be straight or can they have an elbow somewhere in between .. also when designing a box with an aeroport does it need 90 on the edges ?

I have noticed that my subs (2 12 inch pioneer champs) are peaking high. I think my tune may be messed up but I just cant get it right. It will get real low and then attempt to hit a few high notes. The amp itself should be tuned with lpf at around 35 and ssf at around 20. Any suggestions?

I have been pondering on what to coat my wall with. I was originally going to go spray paint but motha f that. I want a plasticy rubberized coating on the box. My friend suggested herculiner. Have any of you had any experience using this stuff? Is there something better that I can use that will work good?

Iv been doing some research in advance of me competing next year. Although I will be doing a ton of testing on the termlab once I start building my setup, I wanted to get a starting point as it will obviously make things a bit easier. Basically my main question is going to be if anyone has actually tested the correlation between vent mach and spl readings. Iv been reading that best results come out of about a 0.05% vent mach in a build, but on the other hand you see high powered, high sd setups only using 8" aeroports that are putting up huge numbers. I may be over-thinking this, I'm just trying to grasp as many concepts as possible before I start testing so that I ca…

I have two Sony explode 10's I got last year; I have them in 1.3cuft each sealed; I am in the process of moving, all the big tools are in storage, so I can't build a new box. I have some scrap wood laying around, and I want to knock out a wall of the box and combine it with another slightly smaller enclosure and port it; I hate scrapping it together, but these are my killing time subs, I just play with them to try ideas; anybody have any tips on making junk subs drop lower? I am not after a ton of output, it's for a computer speaker setup; just want real low extension. I am looking to get it tuned to 24hz, with -plenty- of port; does anyone have any idea what kind of air…

Okay, so there are two ways I can go about this. In the back of a Grand Cherokee I want either 2 15s or 4 12s. I was looking at buying 2 Dual 12 aeroport boxes from Davetheboxguy. Just hooking up 4 Soundqubed HDS200s and calling it a day. OR I could design and create my own box for 2 15s (I was thinking SSA ICON or the HDS300s or perhaps the HDC 3.0) The amplifier will possibly be a BC2000d good for 2250 rms. I could step it up if need be if somebody could recommend an amp that doesn't cost much more but will give enough power. Should I go with 4 12s, or 2 15s. (Yes I know its preference but I am good with either one so help me out here) and I am going to start workin…

Hey, im about to build a box for my buddy and i wanna get around 4 cuft. per sub after all displacements. Again they're two cvr 15's. I was thinkin somewhere around 14 inches of port area per sub per cubic foot of volume and im planning on tuning the box around 35-38 hz. so (14 x 4) + (14 x 4) = 112 inches of port area I've build a ported box for an Fi Q15 and i had it tuned to 33hz but it sounded like it was tuned very low once it was inside of the truck. And i have read that when the box is intstalled in a vehicle the tuning frequency of the box drops about 5-7hz because of the resonant frequency of the vehcile? So im trying to account for this with this box i'm b…

1 18" DC Level 5. Still waiting for some other bits to come in (amp/battery). But in the mean time, we want to go ahead and start on the box. We were thinking of these two options. 1) Sub up/ports up. Have sub in middle, with a port on each side of sub instead of a single port. Does anyone see any negatives to this besides using up more wood/cost more? etc... Basically would like to do it this way because OCD side is taking over, and we would like to keep it symmetrical. 2) Sub up/port back. This would just be sub up, with a single port along the bottom of the back of the enclosure. Pretty straight forward. Basically, just looking for yall's opinions. Which do you t…

I wasn't going to do anything to my 2005 Chrysler 300c but that has changed. I have two ideas and need some suggestions. I'm replacing what is there now with a Fi BL15. Plan 1...sub firing forward into the cabin (cut out armrest hole and aim through there), port through the deck and seal off the trunk completely. Or plan 2...fire sub rearward port probably up (not through deck). In either case I don't want to go any deeper than the folding floor (approx 24"). I ran the numbers and can get 3.5 cu ft (after displacements) and tune to 33hz. I prefer sq but like it a little heavy occasionally. I listen to all kinds of of music but am thinking this setup will really sh…