SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Ported SA does this make sense? Hey guys iv been searching back and forth between forums to calculate my box as close as possible. Before I spend more time and most importantly money on my design I'd like to know if I'm on the right track. Any help would be greatly appreciated Box width - 24 Box height -11 Depth 1- 8 Depth 2- 8.5 Total Net - .835 Port measurements Height - 3 Width- 3.5 Length - 29.64 Now when i put that port in the calculator it says my total net will be .653 the sa 8 calls for .5-.75 ported so I guess I'm right in the middle the other forum I used says that port will have the boxs original net volume of .641 ft3 tuned to 36 hertz Does this seem to be co…

Can I mount the subwoofer in the port, like this? And... Would a 12"Height 1"Wide 6"Deep port be the same as a 6"Height 2"Wide 6"Deep port? Would it sound any different?

Hey guys, I just finished my box. Was all excited, i did i dry build first. just screw it in before glueing. After I built the box I take it outside only to find it doesnt wanna go in my car. YES I did measure twice and cut once, but i failed to measure the clearing distance of my trunk to slide it in. Here is the plan I went by 4cuft. at 35Hz Is there any way I can sacrifice any depth when putting this in my car? Height: 17" Width: 39" Depth: 16.25" Thanks for the input and flaming, Curt

In my last design in my hatchback, i had 2 12s off of 4,400w of power and a local team in my area was bracing the outside of my car and let me know that they could feel air seeping through the seal of my sunroof. Also, the sunroof was flexing pretty good which isn't good either for SPL. I am currently building a wall so it will REALLY flex now with lots and lots of air seepage... So, hehe, what do i do? The only thing i could think of is stick as many towels or shirts in between the glass and sliding door as possible but this is a temporary solution only in the lanes. For longterm bracing, what should i do?

This is for a project I'm working on. I've only ever done a slot port once that didn't physically bend but that was on a really small enclosure. This port is physical length of 12.5" and 6" width. Is this acoustic length right? I'm used to a slot port having a second leg and just adding 1/2 of the port width. For this enclosure, if the acoustic length is right on the pic then it will make nearly a 10hz change in tuning. Kind of a big deal. Thanks!

plan on making a box for a box for a DC level 4 18" what do you think?

i currently have a fi btl 12". tunned at 34 hertz, hitting 139.7db. i was told that tunning higher is better for hitting high spl. there is a competition comeing up on the 10th. and the kids at the local car audio dealer ship told me that there were people with 1 12" hitting 142's. does anybody no how high i should tune my box so i can compette.

So I'm doing a build in my 2003 Dodge Dakota crew cab of 2 15" icons and would like to reinforce my roof. I'm getting 3/4-1" flex on one 10" incriminator I series and also headliner slap and it drives me crazy. I have a bulk pack of dynomat extreme I got for like 20 bucks. Would 3/8" MDF with kerfs And lots of pl then dynomat between headliner and wood be good? Just want to cut down roof flex and stop headliner flex. Any suggestions? I would rather not have to order stuff if possible as I'm tearing truck apart this weekend and shipping is slow Thanks

http://www.springshowdown.com/main07.html How many of you fools will be at the show? There are no shows in this area, so i'm glad that MECA is finally in this area. With that being said, all of the haters out there(you know who you are), don't start any negative comments

Long story short, Everything is brand new. I have a 12 RE Sex that I built in a sealed box. The box was to big after I was done (1.66) so I packed the back wall with 2x4. Well after I had installed everything I had local shop try to tune the sub. They agreed it was missing the low and just had no balls. They suggested we use the same box and port it. Re specs for min port box is 1.5@35Hz. They said we could use the same box as it is 1.66 and they ported it using 3 inch pvc tube that was 7 inches long. It was night and day but I would like to get others opinions since I have put a lot of time and effort into redoing my entire audio setup. Here is my setup: Truck: 05 Ford F…

I'm thinking about trying out a new enclosure for the Xcon's. Current box is 7+ cubes I'm thinking about going sealed and having them firing up. However, I don't think I'm going to like them sealed. If I do a new box and it's sealed, I'd like to keep within these dimensions 48" w x 16" d x 12" h And if I do another ported enclosure, I'd cut the width down and just build a taller enclosure and tune it to 30-33hz. Let me know what yall think and what suggestions yall may have. Thanks!

Hi guys. I will have some time to hang out next week and wanted to use up all my extra MDF. I wanted to attempt to make a 4th order bandpass to put a couple PWX 10's in there and hook it up to my xbox. I know they are not subwoofers but they are my test speakers. If this box turns out good I will refine my design for a couple of real subs. This is what I have come up with. Each side chamber is 1 ft^3 sealed and the center chamber is 2 ft^3 tuned at 33hz. I have no clue how a 4th order works but this is what I have come up with. If you could explain to me how a 4th order works that might help me design this and also let me know if there is anything I can change to make my …

I have a single rl-p 18 in 5 cubes tuned to 27hz, with 64sq in. of port. im running it with a aq2200d at 4 ohms. my question is that when i play songs with notes around 28 hz, its not really that audible, and doesnt move much air at all. Its probably just because its in a trunk. but I thought it would be alot louder on those low notes, considering its tuned to 27hz. My ssf is set around 30, i think that could be it, but i want to ask before i mess something up. thanks!

We Started today, with this. Enclosure in and playing. But ALL the pressure goes right to the back. Took the woofers out. 2 DC Lv4 XL 18"s. Picture of how large the gap is. Supplies Mocking up the start of the seal. Sealing up the bottom Priming Port for red paint. Then, red paint. Cutting out 1/2 MDF to make seal. Driver side sealing done!! Starting on passenger side. Making sure boot stays in place. ALL DONE........ Until suede tomorrow. P.S. This is the truck. and just so it's known, this is his just a toy. Nissan BEFORE Wall seal This is his daily. McGauhy's 2/4 Drop, Ls3, Magna Flow Dual Turn down's.

So, I'm set out to make a ported box for one 12" SSA DCON. I looked at all the specs, and here is what I have come up with: Width - 30 in. Height - 14 in. Top - 12 in. Bottom - 16 in. Wood - 0.75 in. thick Square port width - 1.5 in. Square port interior length - 9 in. This puts my Interior volume at 2.311 ft^3, and the tuning frequency at 28.28 Hz. This is about the best I can do with dimensions that can be easily cut, and that will fit my Scion tC. Do you guys have any suggestions? This is my first box I will be building, and I know all about the supplies, I just need to learn more about the dimensions of box building, as well dealing with the ported vo…

I'm starting a box for my new 12 this weekend. Using a 6" aero for this one. Most of my boxes in the past have been sealed or slot port. Was shooting for 1.75cf3 after displacements and a tune in the low 30's. I'm limited in depth (~14") but had plenty of width (~56"). I came up with this design. It's long and shallow, similar to a truck box I built a long time ago albeit smaller. Concerns: The length to height/depth ratio. Would it matter? The distance between the sub and port inlet. It is currently ~4" from port to the closest edge of the sub tuned at 30hz. I can move it in more, each 2" decrease in length equates to about 1hz. Just concerned about unloading. Maybe it w…

PPL, I'm in the process of building an all out SPL car. (SM 3-4) Right now, I have 2 AutoTek MM4000.1's, which will be connected to 2 ATOMIC APX18D2's. (wired@ 1 ohm per sub) Being a Kinetik dealer here in Japan, I can get the 2400 Monsters at a good price.. I used the calculator on the site and it said I needed 3 of these monsters! My goal is to get full power out of the amps(burps only!) How many batteries would you suggest? and before anyone suggest other batteries, I've already looked at: Odyssey 2150 NSB90 via Northstar and Optima g31 Yellow tops all comments are but experence is wanted holla when ya can TIA Gavin (MERRY CHRISTMAS AND a early Happy NEW YEAR …

This is what I have right now Most of these number where pulled from another Tahoe build to give me a base. Ok now I just messed around with the port length until I got the tuning I wanted (33-35). I don't really get how it is longer than the box? This my first box design and is a temp. box for me to use about a month or so. Sub will be powered by a Cresendo 2k at .5 or 2ohm depending on voltage gain All the way down, and I'm going to take it easy. Any input will be greatly appreciated.

here is a link to some tables, but I would really love to build a TL or Snail Shell box soon to put a small sub in http://www.quarter-wave.com/Theory/Alignment_Tables.pdf

ive seen sum all plexi glass boxes and there pretty sick. how do u make one? wat would u use to seal it together and how would it sound?

Hey all.I have a few questions about walls for car audio in cars.I have wanted a wall ever since i got into car audio but ive had a few concerns about them.Here are a couple of questions/concerns I have about them. 1.About how much does a wall weigh on average? ( I was told i could get a wall built in my car that would weigh about 300lbs made of birchwood.Is that possible?) 2.Is it a must to have air shock or whatever in the rear of the car (I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Galant ES 2.4L and it would cost over a grand to put airshocks in.) 3.Do you guys think my car could handle the weight of a wall? i VERY BADLY want a wall in my car and I know I will not stop fiddling with my …

Hey guys..I haven't completely started building anything just yet and this will be my first build and was just wondering about the port type and location of it and the subs. I don't have any exact dimensions or anything just yet just need to get a simple idea first. I have 2 T12's (rockford) in a prefab box now and wanted to make an good box for them. Any idea's on port type, sub and port location would be appreciated. And any first time building tips! I've heard a lot about subs up and port back but not sure if anything else would sound better in a hatchback. Thank for the help in advance, Ted

Hi, I would like some thoughts on my box design. From what I've calculated, the numbers work. I'm tuning to 35 hz. The colors are to distinguish the different panels. Also, please disregard the different thickness of the walls. I didn't want to have to build the box again just to make the thickness right. The curved corners are to represent where I will kerf. http://i.imgur.com/01zoy.png It is 15" x 22" x 16"(outside). Thanks

Hi I need help making a spl/daily box for 4 15s, I'm going with subs ip port back and want it to be crazy loud, I have 3500 rms going to all of them how should I make the port and what to tune it to?

so ive never really found a concrete answer to this, but for sq is a smaller or larger box better? my 15 fi q is in a 4^3 box it is very peaky down low, with kind of weak higher bass(by higher i mean 40-55 not like midbass), and fi says 2.8-4.0 is good. my brothers 12 fi q is in a 1.8/1.9 ^3 box and it says from 1.8-2.5 and it sounds amazing and even from LOWWWW to pretty high. im assuming the smallest recommended box is good for sq/evenness, and the largest is good for spl/peakiness? (I think i just made up words!) oh btw we are both tuned about the same(31 for me 32 for him)