SPL & SQ / Fabrication

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2628702 I still need to update the pics with my new port and switched to 1 vfl 200.1 and trying to score a 2nd and have 4 different 15s on the way to try in it.

I picked up a btl d2 for 250 tonight, and have it in 4 cubes at 32 hz. I need a box to really let it shine. I was thinking 8cubes @ 30hz. I am unsure of how much port to have though. Most likely a slot. My question is what is a good rule of thumb to go by for port area? I've heard mixed things about the 12-16in/cube rule.

so ive never really found a concrete answer to this, but for sq is a smaller or larger box better? my 15 fi q is in a 4^3 box it is very peaky down low, with kind of weak higher bass(by higher i mean 40-55 not like midbass), and fi says 2.8-4.0 is good. my brothers 12 fi q is in a 1.8/1.9 ^3 box and it says from 1.8-2.5 and it sounds amazing and even from LOWWWW to pretty high. im assuming the smallest recommended box is good for sq/evenness, and the largest is good for spl/peakiness? (I think i just made up words!) oh btw we are both tuned about the same(31 for me 32 for him)

so in torres i put a 23.5" length into the calcs. this gives me a 35.07hz tune with a port dimension of 23.5X4.75" and 7.07 cubic. the physical port length is 17.25 according to torres. i need to verify what my port actually is and i feel a bit confused by the measuring. if i measure the port down teh center wich is how i understand the correct measurement to me then i get 20 and 3/8" in length, then i measure horizontally to the inside of the MDF sheet wich is 3 and 1/8". so that makes the port 23.5" long down the center. if i measure on the face of the wood itself i get 18.75" long and accounting for 3/4" thickness of the port itself. on top of that it makes it 2.375…

this is the box i decided to make for my 2 sa12's am i ready to cut it out or is there anything else i need to do? and does the cut list take the port into account? or is that a separate cut?

Hello am from mexico and I want to know if anyone can recommend that woofers used to compete in spl stret beat and uses a pair of 3000.1 sundown in a car renault R5 Thanks style_team 150+

I have 2 9515 DD's and I am building a new box. I need 75 square inches of port area. The square port I was going to use is 5 x 15 and is suppose to be 13.75 long. Do I measure the port from the front of the wood or the back? Also how far should my port be from the back of the box? I was thinking I might have to turn the port to get the length I need. The box inside measurement is 16" so the only would give me 2.25 inches from the back of the wood and 3.75 from the front.

what paints and primers should i use to paint a subwoofer box i want it to have a glossy black look thanks -Irvin

Alright, so only 10 days after i built my first box iv decided that its no good an i need to build a new one. Currently i have my box only 5.5 cubes for my 18" BTL.. with it only being powered by 1500 watts this isnt the most efficient setup. For my new box, i was going to build it closer to 7.5 cubes, sub up, port up. Now what i wanted to do was have the port 5-6 inches out of the box so that i could flush mount it to the rear deck, then seal the whole thing off from the trunk. The box designer says for 32hz my port will be 28.75" long, 8.5" wide and 13.5" tall. Now could i simply 'slide' the port out 5-6 inches or would that effect the tuning? Sorry if thats a bit…

Hi, I finally decided on building my own HT subwoofer (50%HT and 50$ music) and I want to build the best I can of cours at a reasonnable price. I believe I should go with a 18" and planning on using a 7cu3 box. I also love massive bass and I would agree to have a little more power even if I loose a little quality, this is why I am going with a ported box. Now, is the Fi Q 18 would be my best bet? What about the TEAM serie? I don't know yet what frequency I will be using, somewhere arounf 30hz? For the box, here is the 18" shema : http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/44520-q-series-cut-sheets/ Thank for your help!

Im designing my wall for two 18 zcons. Going in an 87 dodge colt lol will have them wired to .7 on an audioque 3500.1. upgrading to a 5k or 7k in near future so keep that in mind. so far i figure I will have 14 ft3 for my subs after all displacements. so 7 cubes each My port will be 197 sq in tuned to 34. will be 5.5" x 35 3/4" roughly 14 sq in per foot. Am i building the box too big? since i plan on upgrading to bigger power should i go smaller? also give opinions on port size and tuning. or do i stop asking questions and just get it done and find out lol

Hey everyone, Im in the process of building a new system in my 2002 WRX Sport Wagon. 1. Head unit: Pioneer Avic N1 2. Amp: Planet Audio BB175.4B RMS Power (2 ohms) 195 WRMS x 4 RMS Power (4 Ohms) 140 WRMS x 4 Bridged Power (4 Ohms) 345 WRMS x 2 Signal-To-noise Ratio 102 DB Frequency Response 20Hz - 20KHz Dimensions: 6-1/2" W x 2" H x 16-5/8" L FEATURES Variable Bass Boost (0 To +12DB) Switchable Input Sensitivity: 100mV-2V Or 2V-8V Tri-Mode Operation OBAC-1 Audio Enhancement System Continuously Variable 18DB/Octave High And Low Pass Crossovers Low Level Inputs And Output 3. Front Speakers: Kenwood KFC-P708 65 watts rms 4. Audio integrati…

Um.... its me again i might need a box design either for a kicker solo baric 15' s15l5 for an explorer...... Or im am going to try to buy a fi btl 15' either one would be nice to have a box design for both of these are going into the back of a 95 explorer.... I do not have the messurements quiet yet but i should have them tomorrow.... I do not need anything special just a simple design to get me by for the time being....

Long story short my friend built my box and it turned out horrible it wasent his fault he did not have enough tools or supplies but I'm getting a shop to build me a new one and I have an original design but its to wide but I can add to the height my dimensions are 22 deep 33 high 55 wide the box design is 27 high 27 deep and 54 wide wouldn't the volume even out if I went 32 high and 22 deep?

Ok basically I had an ok box, performed well'ish, ported 2.4ft3 60sq" port @ 33hz, then I made an adaptor to sit over the front and channel the ported box into the cabin via the skii port. This worked a treat and made it much cleaner sounding and changed my tuning down to 27hz. Now, I have a new box finished I payed some $$ for and its 2.8ft3 tuned to 32hz with 50" inch of port, the concern is pretty much straight away below 32hz the sub seems to sort of get stuck in and doesnt excurt properly and have stuff all output also, what is this and what can cause it?? I know it could be a lack of backpressure in the box but the new box I thought was a much better design than m…

I'm planning on securing my sub box to my trunk using L brackets. I'm also putting in a plywood floor so I can mount amps/batteries/etc to it also. But my question is that, when using the L brackets on the box, do I just bolt straight through the side of the box? And if I ever move the box to another vehicle or change the arrangement, it will have a handful of holes in the side? Just seems odd. Is this the right was to do it though?

I'm having my enclosure built for an Fi BL 15 that I'm ordering. Im getting the enclosure 3.5 cubic feet. Ported of course. And tuning at 35 hertz. I listen to mostly bass songs. though i do like listening to my spanish too. Bass rap/hip hop music like Young Jeezy, Gucci, Lil Wayne, and so on. Its going in my Altima trunk. Please give me some input, shed some light. Thanks all.

What is box impediance rise and how is it calculated.

I want to tune low for my nightshade 18. How big should the box be after displacements? Port area? Tuning? Thanks!

Hey I am just wanting to clarify that this box design meets the specs that I was told. This is for "1" 15" Fi BTL. It was designed to have 4 cuft. tuned to 35Hz. (Calculations done by BKOLFO4) The box with a slot port will need to be 17" tall in front, 14" tall in the rear, 31" wide, and 23" deep. The slot port will be 12.5" x 4". You will run it into the box until it is 4" from the back wall, and then turn and go 2" parallel to the back wall. (Designed by BKOLFO4) Like this (note the port dimensions are internal dimensions): Thanks in advance, Curt

aight. i have 3 12" california profiles. i have 3 custom 1/2 mdf wood boxes. there in a ranger single cab. i have 2 behind the seats and one where the center floor console/ cup holders were. i dont have the exact specs but there .40-.50 cu. ft. of airspace for each. the subs need 1.25 cu. ft. of airspace, but there just temporary till i get sum new ones. well my question is..they really dont have any excursion at all. they really bump but dont really move. i figured its cuz of the super small boxes. and probally cuz i didn't put any poly fill in em.or maybe cuz there low rated subs, they have like 50 rms and 350 watts peak but if i get sum 12" kicker cvr's or even some sh…

Just found out my old Eagle Talon holds the record in Stock 2 class in IASCA. Hmmm, How come I couldn't do that with the car? LOL. After several owners and some modificatins it is now loud!

When building a box inside the trunk whats the best way to start? im getting a box pre designed with all the cuts i just need to assemble the box inside the trunk

Looking for some tips on the trunk set-up. I have an 18" BL in there currently that is upfiring as it is the only arrangement I could use and still get it in the trunk. I'm looking at switching to a 15" though and can change it around if you guys have tried anything that works well. Firing into seats, firing back, port arrangement. stuff like that that I was unable to with the 18". Looking to save some time before I start tuning!! maybe you guys have had some good tips for me to start with. Any other good trunk tips would be appreciated to. If I compete with this in my car, it'll be a first. I've typically only competed with hatchbacks

I am just wondering a little about amplifers and competition...... this makes me think because the wattage output of amplifers on the normal consumer market, is growing exponentially fast, for example a few years ago the Earthquake D2 was one of only a few amplifers that could be had for a not so bad price and was doing well over 2000 watts.... I am curious more about this in the purpose of street classes where 12volts and only one battery is allowed now Orion, Kicker, Hifonics, MMATS, PowerBass, American Bass, SPL Dynamics, Harrison Labs, Tru Technologies, Phoenix Gold, Zapco, Cadence, Rockford Fosgate, US Amps (the list goes way on) all make or sell a amplifer model tha…