SPL & SQ / Fabrication

hey guys...just wondering what u guys would recommend to use or have used to keep your box from sliding around? i have a trunk car so mine just moves all over the place...? velcro? l-shaped metal corner brackets? open to ideas...

Can someone help me out with some dimensions for a sealed box for 2 Icon 12's? Need 1.25 cu ft. per speaker. Going in an Escalade. Have 46.5" width avail. Currently in a badass ported box I built. Want to try out the sealed enclosure for SQ. Attached a pic of my current box.

Well a few questions here. Would you guys mount your amps to the back of your seats if you could? Why or why not? Second -- I tried mounting my small amp to the back of my seat but its at least 3/4 inch metal. We tried using a metal bit but it ended up wrecking it. Both my friend and I tried for a few minutes trying to trill one hole but couldn't get it to drill through.

is there any disadvantage to having an extremely large port? lets say 20+ inches per cube?

sup planning on entering in my first spl comp. in Roanoke Va. Mar.22. Was reading the rules and got somewhat stuck on the part about the fuse requirements. I'm using a 200amp circuit breaker, do i need to install a fuse in its place to enter. Will be running a saz-1500d on 2 12" lvl4 d1, also would be considered AS1 or AS2. Hope to meet some of you there. Styllikeitloud

hey guys, im purchasing 2 12" Fi ssd Im looking at a ported box, I was just wondering if i need the divider in the middle of the box giving them their own little chamber? or can i just make one bigger port rather than 2 smaller ones ? also aeroport? Is it worth the try ?

Hey everyone, Long time lurker here, finally decided to pull the trigger on a 12" ICON and would like recommendations for an enclosure. Given my driver choice I'm obviously going for sound quality. But who doesn't like a little bit of output? It will be going in an IS300 and run off of a PDX M12. My ICON will be seeing anywhere from 500-1k watts depending on where it blends best with my front stage. Anyway, I noticed that on the product information page for the ICON there are two different optimum enclosure size recommendations. Under the "Enclosure Recommendations" tab it lists ported optimal as 2.25 ft^3 @29-34hz whereas the "Pre-Designed Enclosures" tab has a l…

ALright so i want to do a kerfed port on my next box... i read a thread and i am almost ready to give it a shot. However i have one question. when you do the kerf, do you use the port piece to kerf and then attach it to the front piece on the box or is the port piece and front piece one seemless piece with the kerf in it? if this doesnt make sence i will try to expalin better.

I decided to finally sack up and start planning a blow through. I just can't find anything around the web that actually explains. I really want to use aero ports. Do you think, if I sent two aero ports through the bed, and into the cab, that would be sufficient? I'd like to cut the smallest holes possible. Although I said before that I sacked up, I'm still pretty scared about cutting up my relatively new truck =). So, anyone have personal experience, pictures, or even tutorials? Thanks OH. Before I forget, My goals are to sound good, but have a really nice side of spl on the side. Just a daily ground pounder that sounds good,. I'm still trying to decide on which subs, bu…

posted by ohjay is he a hater or did he just get a shitty box Bah, you don't want the POS box that comes with them, you're better off with the prefab boxes. I have one that was built by Kevin and the baffle flops like a fish out of water with 175 watt rms subs.

I have a soundstream tarantula tr880/2 amp(880rms) and now a soundstream splx 12" 750rms. I have 4 ga amp wires and 10 ga speaker wire, all on a alpine headunit. trunk is dynamated. I just got this sub off ebay after selling my jbl 15wgti. I didnt have much space and I figured I could get a 12" to pound as hard as a 15" I've saw guys at comps do it. But with this soundstream sub I'm not impressed. It came with a cheap particle board 2.3 ft. air space ported box, I plan on getting a nice box. the 15" hit a lot harder then the 12 in just as crappy a box. If anyone out there can give me some pointers on how to get this 12 to sound like a 15 please let me know. let me know if…

Aight, so I'm looking to buy a box for my 15" fi bl, since I cant find anyone to build it for me locally, cant get the dimensions, and cant figure it out myself lmao. Was wondering if any of you guys have heard of Shipsound.com? Their boxes are the size im looking for (the 4.3cf in particular), but their prices seem to good to be true, most of them are under $100. Just dont know what they are tuned to either. Heres the link, - ShipSound.com If they are indeed legit, I'm definitely buying through here.

I think the biggest thing that caused my van build to sink right away was my decision to place the front stage drivers in the ceiling. Right away everyone was angered and outraged that i would put such great drivers in such a terrible location. However, my point of view is that most drivers are placed in the doors...where the seat, floor, and human body block, deflect, absorb, and tamper with the sound in every way. If the drivers are down on the floor in kicks and down in the door, they are faced up to raise the sound stage. How is that different than putting them up high and facing them down? I am sure that it does make a huge difference, so if I was out strictly to com…

looking around for some round tubing to fit an 18 inch sub, i had seen someone who has done this befor on the Mach 5 Audio test bed site but I cant find that site any more. If any one has done any thing like this befor tips and how to measure air space would be a big help. Thanks.

I am running rookie sq in iasca. I was wondering if they have any rules in the sq division regarding vehicle builds. Specifically on caps, # of amps, wiring. I know they do for idbl, but I cant find anything on their website about sq builds. Thanks for any help.

In my last design in my hatchback, i had 2 12s off of 4,400w of power and a local team in my area was bracing the outside of my car and let me know that they could feel air seeping through the seal of my sunroof. Also, the sunroof was flexing pretty good which isn't good either for SPL. I am currently building a wall so it will REALLY flex now with lots and lots of air seepage... So, hehe, what do i do? The only thing i could think of is stick as many towels or shirts in between the glass and sliding door as possible but this is a temporary solution only in the lanes. For longterm bracing, what should i do?

ok so between my 2 15's im going to have about 400 square inches of port area, and i need to know if figuring out tuning frequency is the same as like a round or slot port. or if 400 is too much lemme know. i have figured 355 per sub so 2/3rds of that is about 220 per sub. but the box is going to be aboue 3.5-3.8 cubes per sub and i would like it to be tuned to around 35 hz. but i have no idea how long i need to make the port or anything like that. so any tips or tricks are well appreciated.

ok this is what im working with, i have a 94 corolla 4dr the the subs will be in the trunk faceing the front. the box will be sealed off from the cab. im going to be useing 2-15pbx subs and 2-optidrive2000d (4000w @ 1ohm). the box will be 5cuft @35-38hz w/100sqin port area. ive hit high 130s db with just 1-8" sub w/around 250w on my meter (termlab) so i think i can do it ... so if anybody knows of someone who has hit 150 or over with a trunk setup have them holla at me, or you can just tell me what they did.... thanks jamie

Hello family, I'm working on a design for my new SPL ( only ) enclosure. My last few enclosures had lots of impedance rise and I would like this one not to. Are there so thing I can do to help keep the rise down? A little more info for you. Box 1.8cuft, port 6" Precision Port tuned to 44hz., 3/4 birch x2 baffle. The sub is a Kicker solo X 10 D1 any help would be great. Wise guys need not reply I have no time to play.

Ok, well My trunk openings are garbage, my trunk is HUGE but, I can't get a box inside the trunk from the rear or from the back seats. So, my only 2 solutions are this. 1.) I lay down plastic so I don't get anything in the back of my car, And I pre-drill the screw holes and put the box together while it is in the trunk. Only problem i see with this really, is the internal piece for the slotted port. 2.) I build the box split down the center, having a top half and a bottom half, which would be Biscuit jointed or using dowels and thenglued together in the trunk, and then over the joint external strips would be screwed into place to hold the joint together. Both of these are…

i can't find it anywhere, where do you all buy your polyfill?

This is my first post on here, and need some advice from the BTL gurus I just picked up two BTL 18's, dual 2's, fully loaded, and will be running them off of two modded Memphis Mojo MC-2000d amplifiers (1 on each driver at 1 ohm), approx. 3000 watts each. In my vehicle, which is a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser, I don't have a whole lot of useable space to work with and still maintain practicality, so the enclosure is going to be a bit tight for specs. I will run the subs inverted to try to save as much airspace as I can, but I only have a total of 11.2 cubes to work with, before port displacement. This is going to be a daily setup, and I am more than likely going to build it…

i should have the money soon for the zcon 15 so i want to start getting ideas and thoughts on a box size for the sub. im putting it in my '95 ranger. for electric, i have a iraggi 260amp alternator, big 3, shuriken bt60 bat. and all 0 gauge wiring. i have a audioque 3500.1 that i will be running at 2 ohm (should have 2000watts which is plenty for 1 zcon 15) reason being is that it will be much easier on my electrical, and easier on the amp as well. im more for SQ on this build for those wondering. i love the low lowsss haha. i havent found any box recommendations so im looking for a bit of help. any is appreciated!

Does anyone have experience with sub tunnels(diamond,hexagon, octagon) or manifold style boxes? I was wondering how they are for spl at low frequencies 25 to 30 hz(compared to a straight wall)?

I'm not very good with box designs but what do you, and by you I mean people that know about this stuff, think of running 1 SSA DCON in at roughly 2.5- 3ft^3 box with a passive radiator??? I like the idea and it would solve a few issues for me, but Im not shure how it would sound. I know thats a pretty big box for a DCON so what would the consequenses be?? This would be in a foward firing box in an 02 ext cab GMC sierra running at about 400watts. I know nothing about passive radiators except that there supposed to act kinda like ports, I think, so any help with tunning or suggesting a specific radiator would be appriciated.