SPL & SQ / Fabrication

where is their build house at? who would do the service on the equipment? and where can I find the new COMPx2 for a decent price, I would prefer to run it over the Orion H2 and RE XXX, but the it might be priced to far out there

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2628702 I still need to update the pics with my new port and switched to 1 vfl 200.1 and trying to score a 2nd and have 4 different 15s on the way to try in it.

so ive never really found a concrete answer to this, but for sq is a smaller or larger box better? my 15 fi q is in a 4^3 box it is very peaky down low, with kind of weak higher bass(by higher i mean 40-55 not like midbass), and fi says 2.8-4.0 is good. my brothers 12 fi q is in a 1.8/1.9 ^3 box and it says from 1.8-2.5 and it sounds amazing and even from LOWWWW to pretty high. im assuming the smallest recommended box is good for sq/evenness, and the largest is good for spl/peakiness? (I think i just made up words!) oh btw we are both tuned about the same(31 for me 32 for him)

Well, I'm adding 2 more DP21"s to my Expedition in a month or two. I was planning on doing a clam wall at the B-pillars. But I also started thinking doing a diamond type enclosure would be pretty sweet too. So I'm looking for some opinions on what you think would be louder, first and foremost, and look better. Which ever design I go with will be at the B-pillars, between 35 and 40 cubes, tuned to 32hz. Please explain why you voted the way you did. I have never done either of these designs, so any tips are also appreciated. The subs.

what paints and primers should i use to paint a subwoofer box i want it to have a glossy black look thanks -Irvin

Alright, so only 10 days after i built my first box iv decided that its no good an i need to build a new one. Currently i have my box only 5.5 cubes for my 18" BTL.. with it only being powered by 1500 watts this isnt the most efficient setup. For my new box, i was going to build it closer to 7.5 cubes, sub up, port up. Now what i wanted to do was have the port 5-6 inches out of the box so that i could flush mount it to the rear deck, then seal the whole thing off from the trunk. The box designer says for 32hz my port will be 28.75" long, 8.5" wide and 13.5" tall. Now could i simply 'slide' the port out 5-6 inches or would that effect the tuning? Sorry if thats a bit…

Hello am from mexico and I want to know if anyone can recommend that woofers used to compete in spl stret beat and uses a pair of 3000.1 sundown in a car renault R5 Thanks style_team 150+

Hi, I finally decided on building my own HT subwoofer (50%HT and 50$ music) and I want to build the best I can of cours at a reasonnable price. I believe I should go with a 18" and planning on using a 7cu3 box. I also love massive bass and I would agree to have a little more power even if I loose a little quality, this is why I am going with a ported box. Now, is the Fi Q 18 would be my best bet? What about the TEAM serie? I don't know yet what frequency I will be using, somewhere arounf 30hz? For the box, here is the 18" shema : http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/44520-q-series-cut-sheets/ Thank for your help!

Im designing my wall for two 18 zcons. Going in an 87 dodge colt lol will have them wired to .7 on an audioque 3500.1. upgrading to a 5k or 7k in near future so keep that in mind. so far i figure I will have 14 ft3 for my subs after all displacements. so 7 cubes each My port will be 197 sq in tuned to 34. will be 5.5" x 35 3/4" roughly 14 sq in per foot. Am i building the box too big? since i plan on upgrading to bigger power should i go smaller? also give opinions on port size and tuning. or do i stop asking questions and just get it done and find out lol

Hey everyone, Im in the process of building a new system in my 2002 WRX Sport Wagon. 1. Head unit: Pioneer Avic N1 2. Amp: Planet Audio BB175.4B RMS Power (2 ohms) 195 WRMS x 4 RMS Power (4 Ohms) 140 WRMS x 4 Bridged Power (4 Ohms) 345 WRMS x 2 Signal-To-noise Ratio 102 DB Frequency Response 20Hz - 20KHz Dimensions: 6-1/2" W x 2" H x 16-5/8" L FEATURES Variable Bass Boost (0 To +12DB) Switchable Input Sensitivity: 100mV-2V Or 2V-8V Tri-Mode Operation OBAC-1 Audio Enhancement System Continuously Variable 18DB/Octave High And Low Pass Crossovers Low Level Inputs And Output 3. Front Speakers: Kenwood KFC-P708 65 watts rms 4. Audio integrati…

Um.... its me again i might need a box design either for a kicker solo baric 15' s15l5 for an explorer...... Or im am going to try to buy a fi btl 15' either one would be nice to have a box design for both of these are going into the back of a 95 explorer.... I do not have the messurements quiet yet but i should have them tomorrow.... I do not need anything special just a simple design to get me by for the time being....

Long story short my friend built my box and it turned out horrible it wasent his fault he did not have enough tools or supplies but I'm getting a shop to build me a new one and I have an original design but its to wide but I can add to the height my dimensions are 22 deep 33 high 55 wide the box design is 27 high 27 deep and 54 wide wouldn't the volume even out if I went 32 high and 22 deep?

Ok basically I had an ok box, performed well'ish, ported 2.4ft3 60sq" port @ 33hz, then I made an adaptor to sit over the front and channel the ported box into the cabin via the skii port. This worked a treat and made it much cleaner sounding and changed my tuning down to 27hz. Now, I have a new box finished I payed some $$ for and its 2.8ft3 tuned to 32hz with 50" inch of port, the concern is pretty much straight away below 32hz the sub seems to sort of get stuck in and doesnt excurt properly and have stuff all output also, what is this and what can cause it?? I know it could be a lack of backpressure in the box but the new box I thought was a much better design than m…

I'm planning on securing my sub box to my trunk using L brackets. I'm also putting in a plywood floor so I can mount amps/batteries/etc to it also. But my question is that, when using the L brackets on the box, do I just bolt straight through the side of the box? And if I ever move the box to another vehicle or change the arrangement, it will have a handful of holes in the side? Just seems odd. Is this the right was to do it though?

What is box impediance rise and how is it calculated.

I'm having my enclosure built for an Fi BL 15 that I'm ordering. Im getting the enclosure 3.5 cubic feet. Ported of course. And tuning at 35 hertz. I listen to mostly bass songs. though i do like listening to my spanish too. Bass rap/hip hop music like Young Jeezy, Gucci, Lil Wayne, and so on. Its going in my Altima trunk. Please give me some input, shed some light. Thanks all.

When building a box inside the trunk whats the best way to start? im getting a box pre designed with all the cuts i just need to assemble the box inside the trunk

Hey guys, I have my second Xcon and needing new enclosure but have been debating staying ported or going back to sealed (save cargo space) Anyway, I am first time user of Winisd and not sure if I did this correct so could someone let me know if it looks ok? How do you interpret this graph? To me it looks like ported is the way to go. (I modeled using two 15" Xcons at 1000rms each) Let me know if you need any additional info about my setup...believe my SUV cabin gain peaks @ 49 Hz.

Hey I am just wanting to clarify that this box design meets the specs that I was told. This is for "1" 15" Fi BTL. It was designed to have 4 cuft. tuned to 35Hz. (Calculations done by BKOLFO4) The box with a slot port will need to be 17" tall in front, 14" tall in the rear, 31" wide, and 23" deep. The slot port will be 12.5" x 4". You will run it into the box until it is 4" from the back wall, and then turn and go 2" parallel to the back wall. (Designed by BKOLFO4) Like this (note the port dimensions are internal dimensions): Thanks in advance, Curt

i will be purchasing either an IA DP 15D1 or an IA judge 15D1 and i would like to know a box recommendation for it and what tune would be good since there are no specs on here and their website. the other question is i want to fill the whole trunk with the box amp and second battery/ultracap i notice i will have a very tiny gap with the port facing the back(the trunk lid not the inside) for the ports to push air so i was going to do port and sub face up, just curious to know how much db i will lose from doing that instead of port back sub back or sub up

I have 2 9515 DD's and I am building a new box. I need 75 square inches of port area. The square port I was going to use is 5 x 15 and is suppose to be 13.75 long. Do I measure the port from the front of the wood or the back? Also how far should my port be from the back of the box? I was thinking I might have to turn the port to get the length I need. The box inside measurement is 16" so the only would give me 2.25 inches from the back of the wood and 3.75 from the front.

I am just wondering a little about amplifers and competition...... this makes me think because the wattage output of amplifers on the normal consumer market, is growing exponentially fast, for example a few years ago the Earthquake D2 was one of only a few amplifers that could be had for a not so bad price and was doing well over 2000 watts.... I am curious more about this in the purpose of street classes where 12volts and only one battery is allowed now Orion, Kicker, Hifonics, MMATS, PowerBass, American Bass, SPL Dynamics, Harrison Labs, Tru Technologies, Phoenix Gold, Zapco, Cadence, Rockford Fosgate, US Amps (the list goes way on) all make or sell a amplifer model tha…

Do any of you know what software 'HexiBase' is using to make his enclosures? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VFx37kz5Ww It would be awesome to have a bit of a play around with it to see how my current system stacks up. Thanks in advance

i had a post earlier about this when i planned on making my sub box. however... i made the box bigger to 5 CuFt now and im curious if i could still be ok with (3) 4" aero ports instead of ordering up one more? :thanx: