SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Alright.. im kicking around the idea in my head to purchase a crescendo 3kwp to use with my 18" BTL (d2) .. when i had my box built for me he wanted to know what size amp i was going to use.. i told him the sundown 1500 (which is hooked up right now) ..he made the box on the larger side, i dont know exactly what the cu ft is.. thing i dont know is, should I do a new box up if i decide to throw a 3kw on it? Does my box size play a big role on the amount of power i feed my sub? Whipping up a new box will be a pain in the ass lol.. but if i go dump the money into a new amp then re building isnt gonna kill me. Im pretty sure I can answer this already.. i have a feeling the s…

i have been working on not using the stupid ass re calc and doing everything on my own. how does this look. height 16 width 30 depth 20 with a 4 inch wide port 33.80839511415706 inches long tuned to 32 hz.

I want to go huge, so im goin to. I would like to get: Sub-Fi BTL 15" or 2 12" Amp-Sundown Audio SAZ1500D or Soundstream DTR1.3400 Alt-Iraggi Battery-Xs power (size unknown) or kinetic I dont know what to do about electrical, i know am going to do the big 3, i also know i need a new alt prob. Please help me out here, i want it to be cheap but i want good quality stuff to, i also want to do really well, ive been to 3 SPL comps and there sick, i loved seeing wat people did with their cars and what not. If you think there is a better sub or amp, let me know for a speakers i wont pay more than 500 for one and 750 for 2, for a amp i will not pay over 1000. If you can help it…

Just curious on how much a shop should charge for a box if i supplied them with cut sheet and just had them supply and cut the wood? I enjoy the box building process but don't have the time,skill or equipment to do nice straight cuts. I should be able to design assemble and finish. What do you think? Around $100? Ill talk to my local shop this week but wanted to get yalls opinion.

ok so i really dont trust most of the box calcs. online so i've been researching formulas and anything i need to know about designing on my own. so anyone with advice please put in your two cents..... tell me if i got this much figured out: 1). to come up with the ft^3 of the box you multiply length x width x height using the inner dimensions. then take the total of that and divide by 1728 which is the in^3 of 1 cubic ft. 2). then to factor in port, bracing, and driver displacement you use the L x W x H on each item and subtract it from the ft^3 3). for box's with a slanted front. for example the top is 5" and the bottom is 15" you find the average of them by adding them…

I have a recording studio and have folded horn pa subs and is the loudest and cleanest of all the pa designs. I was wondering if anyone has made a folded horn sub for a car (I've never seen one but maybe I'm ignorant) and the pros and cons. Thanks

I would like to know if you see any potential problems with mounting a peerless 6.5" mid bass speaker "in" the door pocket of my 2000 ranger. I currently have jl audio xr 5 x 7's (coaxial) in the stock location in my doors. They image like crap ( no real surprise there, a lot of the time it's behind my head or at my feet ). I've been playing with some T.B. W3's as well as some FR 88 ex's on the dash by the a pillars. I like the sound of the fr88's and am going to try going without tweeters. I also bought 2 peerless 6.5" sls mid bass (830946), which I plan to put in the stock door location (red square in pic) to see if like them. If I do, I plan to get 2 more 6.5's …

Got a 12" BTL in 2.8cuft enclosure at 30Hz. Upgraded from a BL, and well, it took about a week to get used to the BTL. I have 31" x 18" x 16" of enclosure space available, maximum. (largest I can fit in trunk opening) However there's some space around enclosure once in. Would like to upgrade to something else. 31 x 18 x 16 = 4.0cuft internal before displacement with 3/4 MDF Would like 12" Q's. Can it be done using external areo ports? Or what are my other options? I have a 2500D amplifier. Goals are to move more air than the 12" BTL, and I prefer lows.

Is there anyone here thats does them....

I'm not very good with box designs but what do you, and by you I mean people that know about this stuff, think of running 1 SSA DCON in at roughly 2.5- 3ft^3 box with a passive radiator??? I like the idea and it would solve a few issues for me, but Im not shure how it would sound. I know thats a pretty big box for a DCON so what would the consequenses be?? This would be in a foward firing box in an 02 ext cab GMC sierra running at about 400watts. I know nothing about passive radiators except that there supposed to act kinda like ports, I think, so any help with tunning or suggesting a specific radiator would be appriciated.

Vehicle: 93 Passat Subwoofers: 4 12" DD1500 Series Amplifiers: Unknown, 2000 watts max clamped class Now my initial thought form what ive seeen is a 10 cube box tuned to around 34 for daily and w/e the vehical likes for spl subs clustered up by passenger head rest, port drivers side. other than that im not sure what else to ry when building a wall... So if you have a wall or know of some good pointers please let me know! NOw for a few quesitons: 45° corner pieces or reverse rounds? 2x4"s around the box for supports or just double layer everything? does the location of the baffle matter that much? as in how far away it is from the b-pillar? and how would you find the best…

So I just received two of these: Trans Dapt Performance Products - Battery Trays Going to install them tonight however I'm wondering what those clips and second piece is? Also, I'm going to drill into the rear cargo area of my tahoe and bolt those trays down...How do I ensure I'm not drilling into something important? (On the bottom of the truck) Thanks

Currently I have a center console in a single cab chevy with sub up and port up. Like so.. Or what about something like thiss?

First time building ported enclosure, I would have someone build it but I'd cost too much to ship and sounds like a fun project, sorry Argent hmm, scratch that the box volume is going to be 7.66cuft I used the port calculator at 12volt, port width: 30" port height: 2" port length: 13" tuning: 33hz I drew up this pic so that someone could tell me if "B" is part of the port length or what (p.s. picture is not in proportion to dimensions, just general.) So would A+B=13" or is A 13" and B is?

I was wondering if anyone has ever seen a port like this? Is it even possible for this thing to opperate properly, it still sounds great, but I'm starting to think that its just the DCON making it sound good.

I built this for a friend of mine. Its about 2.52 cuft per sub with 40 square inches of port per sub tuned to 36 Hz. The objective was to build a box that filled up the back of his truck. But that was too much air space overall, so we pretty much built a box inside of a box.. The pic of the inside looks pretty sick.

I have approximately 2.6ft^3 before displacements. This box is for 2 DC Level 3 10s. I'd like for the box to be tuned around 33hz, I planned on using a pvc/abs round port. What diameter should I use and how long should it be?

I was wondering if anyone would be able to make a sketchup for this box. and please correct me if my tuning is off. box is 4.33384 after sub displacement. W. 30 H. 20.5 D. 16 wood thickness .75 and the port being 32.5in long tuned to 32 hz with a kerfed radius of 3.

Vehicle is 2door hardtop jeep wrangler. I'm going to put 4 12" icons in, I can either have the drivers face towards the dash or up, port can face any direction (guessing i'll do rear, but perhaps front would be better for semi wall?). If I have the drivers facing the front towards dash, the box will not be a wall (there'll be ~15 inches on sides and top, around the box). This is what I was envisioning for upfiring, or just rotated and move port for front firing. Also, The box will be directly behind driver and passenger seats, and will have about 15inchs of space from rear of box to tailgate (gotta have some storage )

About to build a box for 2 15"s FI BTL's that will be going into a 87 Mustang. Each btl needs 3-5 ft^3 and is .21 displacement. This is my first Wall / Semi wall build so i just wanted you guys to look over it and tell me what you think.

I am looking for some songs with very good LOW bass notes. The best I have so far are: 24 23 by Trae (and by jeezy, there are two versions), Dopeman by OJ Da Juiceman and In Tha Hood by Trae. Preferably not chopped and screwed (or slowed), as I can do that myself if needed. Thanks, --Chris

Hey everyone, Im in the process of building a new system in my 2002 WRX Sport Wagon. 1. Head unit: Pioneer Avic N1 2. Amp: Planet Audio BB175.4B RMS Power (2 ohms) 195 WRMS x 4 RMS Power (4 Ohms) 140 WRMS x 4 Bridged Power (4 Ohms) 345 WRMS x 2 Signal-To-noise Ratio 102 DB Frequency Response 20Hz - 20KHz Dimensions: 6-1/2" W x 2" H x 16-5/8" L FEATURES Variable Bass Boost (0 To +12DB) Switchable Input Sensitivity: 100mV-2V Or 2V-8V Tri-Mode Operation OBAC-1 Audio Enhancement System Continuously Variable 18DB/Octave High And Low Pass Crossovers Low Level Inputs And Output 3. Front Speakers: Kenwood KFC-P708 65 watts rms 4. Audio integrati…

I'm running 1 SSA DCON in a 2.3ft^3 ported box at 31hz, its down firing in a 02 GMC sierra on a Diamond Audio 400.1. It just doesn't seem to hit the low low notes like my last subs, I dont know if its because its ported and they were sealed or if its the Subsonic filter or what, just looking for suggestions. I can feel the lows and the port fires like a hurricane, I just can't hear them that well, it seems to be only below around 30hz, for everything else it slams, and seems to play everything accurately.

Alright guys here it goes... Trial 2! for my woofer box.... My current design is 31.5w, 22d and 16.5t. I don't remember the wood thickness but I found a scratch paper and I only made my box 3.5cuFt... Which is the smallest they recommend for a level 5 15". Why I did that? I have no bloody idea.... Anyway I re measured and I can add a little more to the box -- roughly 2.25 inches on top, and 7.5 inches on width. I would like to try and reduce the dept the most I can because as of right now I cannot fit more than one battery back there. I would like to be able to lay my amp down nice and neat and have the bat next to it. I will be trying to design my own again but I woul…

So this weekend I'm going to purchase another battery and start working on a battery rack\holder for the rear cargo area of my tahoe. I'll be running one battery there, but eventually I'll add more...A couple questions.. 1. Should I use wood to construct it? I heard MDF flexes over time? Would I be better off getting a friend who can weld to come up with something with metal? 2. It should probably be secured to something, right? I'm not sure if I want to start drilling a bunch of holes in the truck...Any ideas? 3. What are the max dimensions of a group 31 battery? 4. Anyone have any pictures of their battery setup and how it's secured? Thanks.