SPL & SQ / Fabrication

went to a db drag tonite and i took first place. super street 1-2. hit a 143.9 legal on the new TL

Height = 13Inches Width = 48 Inches split in half for two seperate compartments one for each sub. Depth1 = 6.5 Inches top Depth2 = 12 Inches bottem Now I donw know much about porting or tuneing. Im running two CVX's dual 2ohm VC wired @ 2ohm load off a 1500.1 zx This long skinny box fits behind my two seats in my pickup truck with one sub behind each seat. When my cousin made the box for me he put a board in the center to seperate the two subs so they both have different compartments. I wanted to maybe port the box to get a deeper boom. But i have no clue how big to cut a port hole... VentedCompact (MinimumEnclosureVolume from the manual CVX12 1.7…

should i download winisd or winisd pro?

Hi guys, I currently run a Fi BTL N2 12" on a Sundown saz 3000 amp. I have no problem with the electrical, even if I know I may not push all the watts this amp can deliver ! My box was designed by Bromo of Eclectic Design (or something like that) : 2.1 ft3 with a slot port (32 hz tuning) firing through the (driver) side. The sub is firing up. The box is well braced too. It sounds good, but I want more output ! I can have another box built easily, and I already own two 4" flared (on both ends) ports. Those ports are in a 3.2 ft3 box used for a Soundstream XXX 15", for now. But I can get it back fast. This box may be too big for the 12" btl. What do you think about it ? I n…

Ok. I have a 01 Ford F-250, Crew cab. I've been doing a lot of reading since my last thread. Got a better idea of what I want. I just need help deciding which route to take. First, I want a good staging and imaging. At first I didn't really care about this, but now I almost can't listen to my setup now because I can hear each speaker individually. Its really driving me crazy. As far as having a perfect reproducing of the recording, meh, I don't care so much about that. I don't want it way offf, but I want my tastes. Also, for step one I won't have a processor, I will eventually, and I'm sure I won't be able to dial everything in until, but I think I can live with it. Op…

Horns and i want to know of were to start... maybe links to some sites and what not.. anything is helpful thanks everyone

HU: Pioneer P99RS Amp for front stage: Arc Audio KS900.6 Tweets: LGP 25NFA Mids: JL Audio 4" Midbass: JL Audio 8" Amp for sub: Sundown SAZ-1500D v.3 Sub: (2) Fi Audio IB315 I think I have my front stage dialed in pretty good. My tuning includes, gain level setting, t/a, phase adjustment, rta (not relied on heavily), eq balance adjustments and crossover setting. Not in that order but those are some adjustments I made. I also meet with a MECA multi champion who was very helpful in the tuning process. The two biggest issues my setup has right now is slight smearing to the right side and I would really like the soundstage to be wider. The smearing of the center image is ver…

That was the 1st box i ever made on that other thread, lol, i dont think i ever tried it out, hmm. but here are the real pics The port looks extra small if you ask me.But its sposed to be 32hz Now i'm not sure if i want to add in this extra piece right here are not, if i do i have to cut it at an angle because the subs depth is more than my ports length Ply wood Did that even look like an 18in hole to u guys, ahh come on now Oh and does this need bracing of coarse

i will be purchasing either an IA DP 15D1 or an IA judge 15D1 and i would like to know a box recommendation for it and what tune would be good since there are no specs on here and their website. the other question is i want to fill the whole trunk with the box amp and second battery/ultracap i notice i will have a very tiny gap with the port facing the back(the trunk lid not the inside) for the ports to push air so i was going to do port and sub face up, just curious to know how much db i will lose from doing that instead of port back sub back or sub up

Sound Quality Class Name Score Placed Pro Street 1-600 Natan Budiono 345.00 1 Pro Street 1-600 Mic & Lori Wallace 327.00 2 Pro Street 1-600 Ron Baker 320.80 3 Pro Street 1-600 Todd Gaskell 310.30 4 Pro Street 1-600 Joshua Tech 301.40 5 Pro Street 1-600 Ted Jacobson 295.30 6 Pro Street 1-600 Jim Bishop 286.50 7 Pro Street 1-600 Steven DeBauch 278.70 8 Pro Street 601+ Tony Pasquale II 327.20 1 Pro Street 601+ James Schell 320.70 2 Pro Street 601+ Keith Doney 317.00 3 Pro Street 601+ Chuck Music 313.10 4 Pro Street 601+ Eric Fitzgerald 310.30 5 Pro Street 601+ Rina Beckham 309.90 6 Pro Street 601+ John Smith 301.00 7 Pro Street 601+ Michael Lacher 295.00 …

Just looking for some help I guess. Mostly with the stock classes. The organization i was preparing for is looking like its just about dead (dbdrag). So im thinking it may be beneficial to build towards the rules of iasca. Anyone with experience competing in this format, I wouldnt mind a bit of help.

I am running rookie sq in iasca. I was wondering if they have any rules in the sq division regarding vehicle builds. Specifically on caps, # of amps, wiring. I know they do for idbl, but I cant find anything on their website about sq builds. Thanks for any help.

I want to do IB in my 1995 Acrua Integra hatchback. I am aware that I need to seal off the front wave from the rear wave but how much so? If you have seen the rear hatch area do you have any ideas how I can acomplish this. I was gonna remove the faux rear deck and put up a wood deck to mount the woofers and then seal off the seat area. But there is the issue of plastic paneling...do I need to remove it all? and then there is the issue of where the deck will touch the hatch. I cannot seal it together because I need to be able to access my trunk. Any ideas?

I saw this done with on RL-p by some one on here. Basically my only motivation to even think of doing this is because I have a Rear Strut-tower Bar that kind of divides the trunk (99 civic cp). So any box I put in is going to either be really small or really convoluted.. and I don't want to do that.. unless I have too. So what are your thoughts? Another idea is to attach it to the seat back and then build a 1.0-1.7cf sealed box around it.

Box should net 1.5 cubes, i was told to tune around 33 hz so i am in between sq and spl, im not looking to compete or anything, its an underseat box in my silverado (3 inch seat lift to gain space). I was told already here that best to face the port towards the rear pass door. My problem with that is that i have a maximum of 6x3 for port area there. Which is bare minimum for port area going by the "general rule of thumb" of 12-16 per cube, but ive read thats a load of junk. I tried winisd, it gave me a ridiculous port area. Im not sure what i did wrong but it came out over 100 sq inches. I did online calculators and got anywhere between 20 and 40 sq inches. So first off, …

Right now I have a 2.2cubes @ 32hz with 34.50sq.in. of port area with 1100rms for my daily driver. I want to build a pure spl box and a pure sq box before the winter comes. I have 34inches in width and 13inches in hieght. I need to know the tunning, port area, and cubes for each enclosure. I heard spl enclosures should be small and have alot of port area. I'm not sure what kind of boxes I should build so i'd figure i'd ask here since noone knows the icon better than you guys, Thankz.

Hey guys, so my dad really wants an Image Dynamics 12 for Father's Day and I want to build him a box for it. It's going in a Honda CRX, and I want to try and load it off the rear hatch. I just need a simple sealed design and cut sheet. He's got 35"s between the two shock mount plastic panels and 28" from the open storage box to the back so space isn't an issue whatsoever, especially for a sealed box. Only thing important is that I want it fairly close to the 35" across so I can mount it right behind the storage tray angled back to the hatch class. Any help? Thanks a lot guys, and here are all parameters you might need http://www.imagedynamicsusa.net/files/59633398.pdf

I been going back and fourth for the past few weeks about doing a enclosure to go under the rear seat in my truck. I entered my measurements in the enclosure calculator on the12volt. and i came up with 4.7 cubic ft but it have the transmission hump thats right in the center of the floor and i dont know how to subtract that from the total that i got from the enclosure calculator....do you guys think and enclosure like this would work with a external port? Im still looking around for some good 10's that would work with 1 cubic ft or less

I drive a 2005 Ford Taurus, currently with 2 Kicker Comp 12s, which were my first install. I've been looking to upgrade to (significantly) more powerful drivers for a while now and I've recently taken on the job of research. I talked to a local Audiophile Loudspeaker company and he recommended TC Sounds LMS-R 12s. After reading reviews, I've noticed that their performance, while good, can be hit or miss. I did some more research and stumbled upon the AA Havoc 12s. These interested me more because of the (almost) 100% positive reviews and thumbs ups for SPL AND SQ. I'm looking to run these off of a Kicker ZX2500.1, giving them the 1250 RMS they're rated for (not overpower…

just wondering what you guys felt about attaching things like felt or sound foam, (seen a few designs on DIY like this) for SQ purposes, not SPL ofcourse, but for less vibraton and harmonics, etc...

ok, as some of u know, my first wall i tore out to make room to lay frame. well once the bags are done, wall is getting rebuilt. right now, its gonna be the 4 15" mts, hella close to the front seats, with the port on the top, and the 4 15's under that. i sat in that guy john's van with the 16 12" ssd's, and it was loud. you guys think i should build my wall like a diamond type thing, something like galactic monkey is doing, or just a straight up wall like im doing? itll be tuned around 35 hz. this was my old wall: never heard it either my floor after airbags will be sorta like this:

just bought a 18'' fi bl dual 1 ohm im runnin 2 ohm 2 a 1200.1 jbl.. im installing it in a 96 yukon..4dr. how should i build the box , which way should the sub face ..and port...how many cb ft...thanks..

i have a fi bl 15 dual 2 with flatwind and cooling. it's going in a trailblazer; although i have a lot of room i dont want to use it all. i need some help deciding on the dimensions of my box and how i want it tuned. I want it to sound good but get really loud. i listen to all kinds of music if that matters. any help would be appreciated.

any1 familar w/ my make/model please help. I already have tons of flex in the frame all around the sunroof but esp. the front part of it, I am about to be installing more then double the power + batts + 0 gauge so I am concerned. I def. cant even listen to the music up with the sunroof open, hell I can't even open up the sun shade on it when the system is on blast w/out fearing a glass shower, so I have no problem doing something extreme to fix this problem or at least help with it. If shizzzon reads this I am very interested what you did or are planning to do with your scions sunroof. Thanks in advance for any suggestios or thoughts on this. - anyone who has any advice…