SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I've got some ideas for a speaker project...but need someone local to do the fabrication. Anyone either in NC or VA have the time? Let me know...thanks

I been going back and forth about taking my rear seats out my crew cab silverado.The idea that i have if i remove the seats completely, is to build a enclosure/amp rack that rear passengers can still sit on and still be comfortable. I was thinking about covering both in some type foam and vinyl...have this been done before and would it work?

Posted this on *** as thats where I found a box design I'm interesed in, but thought I'd ask here too asn see what you aLL THINK... I want to redo my system AGAIN and I'm slowly stackin parts to get it all ready... I have most of the wiring (RCAs, lots of 0/1, 4 and 8 ga wire, tons of connecters, etc ) most of the major stuff (I have 2 sets of RE XXX Componets, the 4 12" RE XXX D2s older style, 1 SAZ-2000D, buying 3 more and I guess I need 2 SAX-125.2s for my Mids and Tweets), now my biggest problem is how to fit it all and make it all look cool.. Again the ride is a 2000 S-10 Blazer and like I said I want to put in 4 12" XXX D2s in a vented enclosure for ""SQL&a…

looking around for some round tubing to fit an 18 inch sub, i had seen someone who has done this befor on the Mach 5 Audio test bed site but I cant find that site any more. If any one has done any thing like this befor tips and how to measure air space would be a big help. Thanks.

Well, as some may know (from my thread in the subwoofer/speaker forum) I have an RE Audio seX 15D4 coming my way. So, I am in need of building an enclosure for it. So, this will be going in the back of a Chev S-10, and will be powered by a JBL 601.1 amp (receiving ~600 watts RMS) This will not be for competitions of any kind, however I do enjoy listening to music, as such I want something that has the ability to sound decent and yet still get fairly loud for just general driving around use. So, for dimensions, I can go up to 40.5" wide by 18" high by 14" deep (outside measures). I am looking to do a ported enclosure. Not decided on whether I should go slot port or roun…

I wasn't sure where to post this so it will probably be moved.. But im planning a new box and im debating what frequency to tune to.. The thing is that i have a box in my truck now that is tuned to 40Hz and I want to play sine wave tracks (30hz, 31hz, 32hz.. and so on) to determine where my box peaks at with cabin gain. I believe this will help me make my decision because I don't really know what hz is playing in a song and say my setup starts dropping of around 45hz now.. I may want it to drop off around 35hz.. Also i will use the tracks to compete if i ever build a loud setup. I buddy of mine used to have a cd with tracks like this so I know they're out there.. Could…

The box is for a pair of DC Level 4 18's in the back of a 2007 Suburban with all seats in, including the third row.I have the following for outer dimensions to work with: 27 x 49 x27 Now my drawing shows a height of 26 1/2, but I'm only counting the height at 25 3/4 in the Box Calc program because the top board was double baffled. I'm seeing a box tuning at 33hz. Here is my other design, this one is pretty much the same as the first except for both subs and port firing up. What do you guys think? Box Design: I think I still like the whole port and subs up design better. My current box is a dual chambered double slot ported box. Each chambered tunned to 32hz. Has anyone…

Hey guys, Currently in the works of trying to figure out a box that will work with my Zv4. Here's some info: - Going in a 2000 f150 ext cab in place of the smaller rear seat.- Using my Saz-2000D amp- Sundown Zv4 12, suggested 2.25-2.75 cu ft- Wanting tuning around 30hz-32hz- Max Dem: W: 17 | D: 18 | H: 26 or so |- Would prefer sub to fire upwards.- I love rap music and bass heavy electronic similar to white clouds from decaf or lights from bassnectar. Here's my original box and design: http://imgur.com/a/WqOOl No sure how well it'll work and if there's enough port area. So here's another very similar box with a couple small changes that move me from 14.85 sq inch…

Hey guys! Im looking for someone who knows how to build sub enclosures for a decent price. Im located in Shreveport, Louisiana, so anyone around the area can reply. I want a ported box for 4 15 inch havoc subs. Please help!

After doing the math i come up with a .825 cubic foot enclosure which doesn't seem to leave me with room for ports. Can someone help me out here please? What should my internal volume be? I used the box calculator at the12volt.com, is there a different calculator I should be using? Thank You to anyone who can help me.

Vehicle : 2014 Toyota Corolla LE eco Location in the vehicle: trunk Space available (Length x Width x Height): 20 x 38 x 16 Subwoofer make and model: American bass xfl 1244 Subwoofer Size: 12 Number of Subwoofers: 2 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): Slot What type of music do you like?: Rap hip hop deep bass Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Everyday driver Tuning Freq (Hz): not sure Volume : not sure Questions: I'm gonna need a cut list and hopefully it can be a simple design because its my first build attempt

Sorry if this has been asked before but if I decide to get a loud exhaust system is it worth it if my system is my main priority and by is it worth it I mean will it take a full shop pack of deadner for it not to affect my system?

This setup will be in a 1985 celebrity wagon. I want insane, air moving hard hitting lows. Two different setups.... 1. I was considering a wall running directly behind the front seats with 4 L7 15's and the most port I can run and still have a low tune. I'm guessing about 300 square inches of port. 2.Another idea I was considering was running a huge box with subs up and port up that starts with the box directly behind the front seats and takes up all cargo area, but keep the box just tall enough to have the port firing on the angled back glass. Of course the port will be as big and tuned as low as I can logically make it. On the 2nd idea I was going to run a lot more c…

trying to decide on 2 different setups and basically, if you like loud (40hz area) but also don't wanna lose that low rumble in the 29-32hz area, what setup would be ideal? all ran off of a 5,000w amp 3 12" Fi Qs(BP option mandatory) Sealed in 4 cubes. 3 10" AQ-HDC3s ported at 37hz. I know that the 10s are louder but i have never done a setup of this magnitude and am wanting to know really, for someone who may have done something this loud before, what is your opinion on this? I know the sealed setup, i can get my lows just fine, will not be as loud as the 10s but is it gonna be very noticeable? Basically, i can give you a scenario- If i set SSF to let's say to start roll…

I have a single rl-p 18 in 5 cubes tuned to 27hz, with 64sq in. of port. im running it with a aq2200d at 4 ohms. my question is that when i play songs with notes around 28 hz, its not really that audible, and doesnt move much air at all. Its probably just because its in a trunk. but I thought it would be alot louder on those low notes, considering its tuned to 27hz. My ssf is set around 30, i think that could be it, but i want to ask before i mess something up. thanks!

I picked up a btl d2 for 250 tonight, and have it in 4 cubes at 32 hz. I need a box to really let it shine. I was thinking 8cubes @ 30hz. I am unsure of how much port to have though. Most likely a slot. My question is what is a good rule of thumb to go by for port area? I've heard mixed things about the 12-16in/cube rule.

i have two idq12's in a 1.7 cubic sealed box powered by one dls A6(875@2ohm-1200@1ohm). i listen to mostly metal so i need the sub to be able to keep up with the fast double kick-drum. the problem with my set-up is i can keep up with the beat but lack lowend. i took out my xtant 1000/1 think it was the subsonic filter frequency blocking low notes. it must be the box- what is the best application for a truck

well its that time of year again, when i have some money comin in. Hopefully this will be finished up in the next few months. its goin in my 84 cutlass. 2 Mach 5 MJ-18, off of a AQ 1200. the box is 10.97 cubes @ 34 hz, and 175 sq. inches of port. the bracing in the pics isnt what its actually gonna be like, i got in a hurry and just threw it in, ill be glassin the inside and usin thread rod. the corners will also have 45's. oh and its out of 1'' mdf. Comments or suggestions appreciated. demensions are 42 wide, 29 tall and 24 deep. It seems that a box that big with that much port would have horrible port noise, but supprising in the car none of my boxes have have ve…

I am wondering if the Mach 5 SPL-12s would be any good in a T-Line? I have been told they should be good, but the fs is sorta high. I am planning on doing this with my camper shell but with a different box... the box can run the length of my truck... I plan to make up some metal frame for the box to sit on inside the bed. Having the box above the floor will give me room for my air ride when that gets installed..

Long story short, Everything is brand new. I have a 12 RE Sex that I built in a sealed box. The box was to big after I was done (1.66) so I packed the back wall with 2x4. Well after I had installed everything I had local shop try to tune the sub. They agreed it was missing the low and just had no balls. They suggested we use the same box and port it. Re specs for min port box is 1.5@35Hz. They said we could use the same box as it is 1.66 and they ported it using 3 inch pvc tube that was 7 inches long. It was night and day but I would like to get others opinions since I have put a lot of time and effort into redoing my entire audio setup. Here is my setup: Truck: 05 Ford F…

So this weekend I'm going to purchase another battery and start working on a battery rack\holder for the rear cargo area of my tahoe. I'll be running one battery there, but eventually I'll add more...A couple questions.. 1. Should I use wood to construct it? I heard MDF flexes over time? Would I be better off getting a friend who can weld to come up with something with metal? 2. It should probably be secured to something, right? I'm not sure if I want to start drilling a bunch of holes in the truck...Any ideas? 3. What are the max dimensions of a group 31 battery? 4. Anyone have any pictures of their battery setup and how it's secured? Thanks.

So Lowes is having a sale in my area and i noticed that 3/4 MDF 4x8 sheets are on sale for 32$ I was wondering, how many 4x8 sheets would i need to make a 4.0cf ported box After displacements. Any help is appreciated. Oh and theyre having a sale on 1/0 for 1.93$ a ft

I started the cuts today, and want to put it together soon, but theres a few things i'm missing. I know i need to pilot the holes, but what size screws? I was thinking 1 5/8" Drywall screws. And for the glue.. should i just use regular carpenter glue/weldbond or something special? Also i read that MDF is porous, so should i seal it? and with what? And someone on a different forum mentioned to do seomthing different for the edges/corners.. .any idea what he meant? 1. 1 5/8" drywall screws? 2. Weldbond/carpenter glue or something else? 3. What kind of sealant if any? (recommendations?) 4. What should i seal edges with? I know its long but thanks for readin.

When drilling into the mdf boards, it seems to split every time when i am screwing in i think there deck screws... Can anyone help me out and tell me what kind of screws to get for this project! Thanks, Curt

This isn't really a "how to" considering I didn't take a lot of pictures, and I don't really know what I'm doing, but people can learn from my mistakes and what I've learned in the last year. First mess up, didn't use any mold release between the tape and laying down the mat. Usually people use wax or some spray, even spam? I don't know, but I f#cked that part up. Trimmed the panels down. Used non-hardening clay to angle the baffles. Since I'm using small baffles with relatively light drivers, and low depth, the clay held the shape well for aiming, and everything. If your using larger drivers then clay may not suffice. I propose a toast: to 2-part expanding foam. …