SPL & SQ / Fabrication

what type box would you suggest for a sq setup i know the norm is sealed but i've heard a few ported boxes and they sound pretty nice give me some of the pros and cons of both btw subs being looked at are idqv2 12" IA LI 12" and SA-12 thanks for any heip provided

i've got a sealed box for my rl-p's. its built into the well of my car and is a major, major pain in the ass to take out of the car, or i would just pull it out and feel for air moving at the joints. when i push one of the speakers in, the other will push out, and very, very slowly settle back. is this normal or does that mean there is a leak somewhere?

hi guys will JBL GT5-S644 amp http://www.indiajbl.com/CarAudioDesc.aspx?ID=97 provide enough power to power up a set of Hifonics Zeus ZXi 6.5C component ? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6713_Hifonics-Zeus-ZXi-6.5C.html please reply regards simmer

Well thaks to McVay in Oswego we finally have some "local" shows scheduled for the 2005 competition season for IASCA. The first show is on March 27th, with one show a month all the way up to the month of October. I don't know about the rest of you guys but since I was unable to accrue enough points towards Finals last season, I just can't wait to get back into the lanes this season. For a list of the IASCA Events just click IASCA Event Calender

Whats up guys. I am going to try to build my own box. I have only built like 2 before, but I want to give it another try. I was wondering who can I Pay to design a box for me for 2 15" Type R's... If you are interested, or have worked with these before please let me know, or send me a PM.. Thanks. Steve-o

I own the following items: http://www.kaptionaudio.com/manuals/SPLManual.pdf ( I have the 15 inch) http://www.kaptionaudio.com/manuals/KaptionD-Class.pdf (biggest amp they make) I am trying to build a loud, clean system. The dimensions and information are in the pdf for the sub. Now, I listen mostly to rap, some rock but mostly rap and otherwise a mixed back. I believe sealed is the way to go because I like the clean, clear bass... I will be leaving in the third row of seating in, but have it flipped up (or maybe I should take it out). I need to use the space above the sub for the transfer of some goods etc... Should I center the sub, put it towards the rear seats or t…

i have a 96 sonoma king cab i need help designing a ported box tuned in the 30s to kill lows if some one could help i just need a blue print to biuld off of

Ok guys here's the deal...... I've built two boxes so far this summer and have had problems with both of them. I need to know the best spot to put the port in a regular cab truck, preferably a Ford Ranger. First Box: This one got pretty loud but there was a ton of port noise. It is 1.1@33hz with a 3'' aeroport up-firing. The reason I ditched it was the port noise and I didn't like how it fit behind the seats....too deep at the top. New box: 1.1@33 again with a 3'' aeroport. Now it fires into the corner about 4'' away from the side panel. The output dropped rediculously and also the bass is just so flat sounding....it sounds horrible. What should I do? I'd appreciate he…

alrighhtttyy guys.... i got a different build that i need some help with because i realized the two SPL15s had a slim chance of working out =[. I'm putting a ascendant audio mayhem 18" in the trunk of a 01 chrysler sebring sedan. The sub is going to be front firing and im just going to keep the back seats down (when i put them up for people to sit in them i will just cut the subs off). The trunk is pretty flat and the box should be pretty easy to load in from the car with the seats folded down. I have L29 x W34 x H18 to work with. for you who dont know a mayhem is essentially a loaded BTL.

144.3 in the middle of hte dash on the AC and i forgot to turn my bass knob all the way up, it was set to 3/4 it was on track 19...whic his 38Hz...wow. [email protected] also, the both doors and windows where closed, which isnt MECA style. my nuts where vibrating agianst the seat and my nose tickled really bad. so windows open and mic on the floor and bass knob al lthe way...145 on the AC shoundnt be a problem. and it was a new mic, or so says the owner, so it was still a little stiff, the highest hit on it so far was 149.5 and he geussed mine to be 140dB and hte pansy guy that sat i nthe passenger seat started plugging his ears at 141dB...i tried to talk to him and a…

I've attached a picture of the panel I need to make a box to fit in. I would love to be able to mold the box outside of the car, but I'm concerned with the trunk panel folding over and not keeping its proper shape. What are my options?

So like it says how do you figure out the right measurments for 2 or more round or square port? and im asking because im thinking of doing a dual L port design for a 12" BTL. box will be tuned to 34 hz and will be 2.5 cu ft after displacement. so how do you figure out length and port area for each port? also if you know how ot do the circle ports it would be nice to know that as well. because i might end up going the aero port route.

This will be my first wall build, I've been doing a lot of reading and looking at build logs. I should start by saying the plan is 2-3 (if I can fit 3) RE XXX 15's, on either a DC Audio 12k or Stetsom 14K. I think I'm going to go with Baltic Birch for weight and strength, I am seeing guys using 2 by 4 bracing, also seeing them use it for the back of the wall outside, what is the purpose? is it needed? what other ways would you strengthen the wall or face? the subs weigh 76lbs a piece. I was thinking 3-4 layer front face, double layer everywhere else, fully resin the box. How much bracing would you recommend? If you have pics or anything else you might recommend I'm open …

so i took my box out of my car to add some fiberglass resin to it, and some supports, but i was wondering what side should a port be on for the best spl. passenger side or drivers side. the sub and port will be facing the trunk. Thanks,

Many times I have been asked: "What if I don't have a table saw, how can i still make a good box?" This video answers that question. Enjoy!

Ok so my buddy is putting 2 old school JL W6 15's in his extended cab frontier. About how big should his box be, he wants to go sealed. And which way should the subs face? Towards the back of the seat or facing up??????

I'm well aware of the complexity (or so it might seem for some) involved in creating a ported enclosure built to specs. I'm also aware of situations where different subs have been dropped right in to a ported box previously housing another sub and working well. With that being the case I was wondering how bad a prefab box like this one I stumbled across on ebay could possibly be. I'm absolutely prepaired to pay for a properly made custom box but was just curious a) if anyones had any experience and b) if this is just a COMPLETELY bad idea. Heres the link to a prefab 4 cu ft ported box tuned to 32 hz (almost exactly what I'd be getting custom made): 15" CUSTOM-PORTED MDF S…

Hey fellas. What's going on? Alright, heres the deal. I picked up another CVR, so I am now in the process of deciding what I want to do with the new box for the 2 CVRs. This setup is going to be a pure daily driver, no competing or anything. I listen to all rap or hip-hop. Now, I emailed Kicker and asked what they thought the best daily driver box would be and they sent me some specs that ended up being tuned to around 40 hz. I thought 40 hz is pretty high for daily driver tuning. I PM'd Polecat and he said that 40 hz would be good and that I wouldn't lose much low end and that it would get loud and sound musically good. My current box for my single CVR is 34 hz and I am …

I found measurements for an enclosure for my 2 12 inch pioneer champ pros tsw3002d4. The box is tuned to 33 hz. I was just curious as to whether that would be good for my subs or too low? The amp I am using is a hifionics zeus 3000 watt zrx3000.1d. This will be my first box build so I want to be as clear as possible. I used RE audio calculator if that is any good.

i got test tones from 20 hrtz to 85 but i fail to find a sweep for free. any ideas?

Has anyone done one of these before ? I reciently picked up a eD e8a and I wanted to try it in one. I found a formula that seems fairly simple to follow. Build a box with 2 chambers, one at 3 cuft and the other one EXACTLY half of that, ie 1.5 cuft. Next cut 3 ports all IDENTICAL in length. Put one in the face of each chamber and the third in the wall separating the two chambers. In this instance each port would be either 12.5" long for a little deeper response or 8" long for a little more SPL. Now you have a box with a big chamber with a vent in it, a small chamber with a vent in it, and a third vent in the wall between the two. The woofer also mounts in the large chambe…

I started to build a new enclosure today. Gross interior is 12.5 X 53.5 X 7.5 bottom and 3.5 top, so 2.5 cubic feet gross. I am recessing the amp and the panel is 22.5 X 13.5 X .75 sunk 1.5 into the enclosure. There are (4) 1 X 2 X 55 and (4) 1 X 2 X 12.5 to account for and the displacement of the sub (RL-P) I think is .18. I want to tune this thing as low as possible (28-32 Hz) so dual 3" ports probably. How long do I make them?

Okay so I went to Home Depot to get some MDF, Glue, & Screws. So I see the 3/4" MDF and grab a sheet. Then I get home, take it off the truck and find out it's 5/8" instead. Would it be okay to use 5/8" instead of 3/4"? Its going to be for a Single Cab, Downfiring Enclosure, With a Double Baffle. Sub will be AQ HDC3 12"

just wanted to get some thoughts on bass box 6 pro..is it user friendly for a noob box builder like me and if so does n e one have it avail for a small fee

Here is an idea i am throwing around for my 99 neon... 5.25 component set up front for the hi/hi-mids have 6x9 holes in the rear deck, but will enlarge them slightly to encompass 8"(7.25 cutout) midbass drivers 50-200 hz response.. then have 2 12's in aported box in the trunk Is this a sound design to put the midbass on the rear deck?? I have read numerous things about running mono for the rears/keep away from highs back there cuz it moves the center image backwards types of things... Also is this going to be terrible placement for the "free air" midbass speakers on the rear deck having their back wave interfering with the sub output... (really the rear deck is the only p…