SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Hey, I have a set of TC-7 woofers. Right now the box its in is 40x12x12 with independent chambers. Aero port out each chamber to the side 3'' in diameter and 13'' long. Its to long for what I need it now. So I was thinking making it 36x14x14. That way it would be short enough and then I could have the ports fire forwards too. Sound good? But I know these were designed for large sealed apps. however i cant find specs for that. Could someone just give me some dimentions to make a box? I dont need 3d plans and all that. Just something l x w x h because I dont know how much airspace for sealed. Thanks

Well, that meter is comin in handy... I've got spreadsheets on my computer right now of multiple setups of what they do from 30hz-52hz in 1hz increments off of a 100w amp. I chose low power so when i make a change i can see it's difference better with low power. So far i've tested 8 different positions(i don't list all of them due to bad output and tested others with failure as well in output potential) using 1 10" sub ported at 42hz(just because it's only box i have at the moment before it gets warmer) (This is daily driver only) I've tested all positions AT THE HEADREST ONLY. So, all the Db ratings below are noticeably low. I've been to comp before in the past but m…

Ok, I will be googling how to do fiberglass work soon enough....but i just wanted a general concensus of about how tough it can be....I want to build a L type sealed enclosure going from the floor in the back seat of a friends truck and into the center portion of his seat. I would like to do it in fiberglass and just wanted a general idea of about how much work i am in for. Is it okay to have like 90% of the enclosure to be mdf? I just need the top portion to be fiberglass so i can angle the subs to where i want them to point. Also, it is okay for 2 subs to be in a common chamber isnt it? I thought it was, just wanna make sure. Thank You

Most vehicles are generally louder with a door open, window down vs the vehicle being sealed right? Depending on the db level is there an inverse effect and a sealed vehicle is louder? Or does it just depend on the frequency as an open door would make the cabin part of the enclosure (4th order?) I know there's different sanctions and different rules among classes, so certain cases I'm assuming the vehicle has to be sealed and can't have any windows/door open. So if my first theory is true, then why do people seal every air leak in their vehicle to gain dbs? Wouldn't they want places for the air to escape (like an open door, just not opened quite as much). OR would this^ b…

I'm thinking about going to a meca event and try and place....but wat class will I be in 2-18's, 4000watts, two 300 amp fuses( can go lower if need to) and I have no idea if I have a street Box or not...trying to start going to comps so I can rep these ETHOS

currently running a sundown saz1500 powering a fully loaded 12in fi bl in a 2.5 cu ft box tuned to 34 hz. I was recently at a local audio shop and had the main guy set my gains properly so i did no have any clipping. I was not very impressed with the outcome. As i come to find i had been running with clipping since day one and my system is now quieter. He told me to tune my box to 40-42hz and it would be louder. My question is how much louder? and will i still be able to play most rap music? What would be the lowest tone i could safely play?

Hi all, I'm designing a custom boot for my car, what is the best way to place 2 x 12" phase aliante subs in a boot? I was told the best place would be one on each side (one on left side and the other one on the other side). and I would love to do a fibreglass job something like this: but on my car would be 2 of them..so one on the left and the other on the the other side. what do you think? or is it better to do something like this (which one is better, sub firing the front of the car or the rear)?:

I was wondering how to build a ported box for 2 18" btl loaded each one in its own chamber for a 03 Yukon and how to tune it between 30 and 35 Hz. I'm looking get some serious bass. What are some dimensions I can use with the speakers facing up? I will be running them on two saz-3000d. Hello again I'm looking for spl in my 03 yukon. I am looking at running 2 Fi Btl 18" on 2 Saz-3000D amps in this amount of space. H 21" W 46.5 D 22-28". So what do you think? I need help with the box and port dimensions. Once I have an idea I will start the building. I need all the help I can get. Thanks

i was looking at the 6x6 in aero ports at parts express but the only boxes ive ever built have been slot ports so i dont know anything about it, how much air do they displace?, or how do i get a turning freq. with them, and just the basics i quess? idk thanks for any help guys

ok this might be my final design. I used re calc to get the port length and used the other calc to give me my final specs including displacement.

if your going see you there,,,cars still not ready but im taking it out anyway

hey all been looking to make a t-line for a large scale project but wanted to start off with something small in case it doesn't turn out so well. now i no the port area has to be the same as the subs cone area, and the length is the speed of sound divided by the fs of the sub then divided again by four. but ive been told some have a common chamber and some don't and also im trying to figure out how to tune it or can you only tune it to the fs of the sub? any help would be greatly appreciated and ill let you guys know how it turns out once im done thanks mike E

Alright, iv basically all over the map trying to consider what type of subs i wanted. Iv made up my mind now and i kind of wanted to know your opinion. I was thinking about going with two Fi 12"Q's, OR two Fi 15" Q's in a ported box, running off a Crescendo BC2000D. Now in order to eliminate trunk rattle, i was told sealing it off from the trunk and firing it forward was a good idea. The only problem is that i cant fold my rear seats down, now i do have the option of buying rear folding seats for about $300. I guess i dont really have a specific question.. just tell me what you think, any improvements or different ideas you think would work best. Since im…

does anyone know if a single sundown audio sa-10 would sound good in a box tune at 45hz ?

Is there any dB meter software you can use with a regular computer microphone on windows vista? i know it wouldnt be as accurate as a TL but its better than nothing.

okay so i just finished cutting and sanding all the pieces of MDF for the new box i'm building.. i used the re audio box calculator and it is gonna be tuned to 32hz. the only problem is that i am not entirely sure if the location of the sub will affect sound quality. just wanna play it safe and get some feedback. the specs are 30'' wide x 17.5'' deep x 14'' high. if the exact calculations are needed ill put em up. thanks

I'm thinking about building a new box for my 15" DC level 3. My current box is slot ported to the back with the sub firing up towards the trunk lid, 3.3^ft tuned to 32 hz. I was thinking about building a box firing into the cab (BMW 330CI). Im not too experienced with building boxes but think i can manage this. Has anyone here done this kind of box before and can give me any pointers?

Ok, this is giving me a headache... I dont know the exact volume of the box but it's somewhere between 12-13.5 cuft NET or it should be... This is what i've got and cant figure out why... I had a port 25.5" long that peaked at 50hz. I then had a port 22.25" long that peaked at 51hz I then had a port 20" long that peaked at 52hz I then had a port 18" long that peaked at 53hz I then had a port 16" long that peaked at 54hz The port extends through a double baffle (1.5" thick) and sticks out of the box 5" I always cut off the port length on the INSIDE of the box and retest. My peak frequency is 50hz. My LOUDEST port test was at length - 20" which peaks at 52hz but is loudest…

Sooo...got a bit of a rude awakening today. Found out my e12a is actually presenting close to a 10 ohm load to the PG Tantrum 1200.1 in box - impedance rise is killing me. The sub is a 2 ohm DVC currently wired in series, and it's close to 2.5 times what I was thinking the impedance was. Pardon the extreme n00bish question, but is such a drastic rise common? It just feels a little strange running my sub at a lower impedance than my amp is rated for (if I drop it to 1 ohm), but if it models out well, hey...that's what I'll do.

Alright I think I'm going to start competiting in MECA. Sort of confused on the fuse rating thing though. Anyone wana help me see what class I would be in? I would like to compete in AS or Drive By. I think I would do better in AS to start off with. The local state record is 144.2 and thats AS2. Should I have a problem with that? Also one other thing. It doesn't say that I can/can't have an upgraded alternator. Should I just not put it on or go ahead and put it on? Not sure what to do in that situation. Also it says no resins or anything. Does that mean in the box? I can't coat the inside with resin? What all could I do to help get the dBs up? Thanks for any help. Mike

Are there any SQ comps that are regularly in NC? I see that a lot of you SQ guys are from VA, where do you usually compete? Any local organizations or the like? I have never competed before, so I would appreciate it if someone could point me in the right direction. While I'm at it, what are the different SQ classes, and their requirements?

i have a dcon 12 in a sealed box Internal box volume: 1.2 cubic ft Box Dimensions: 14-1/4"L x 14-1/4"D x 14-1/4" H Its amp is an mbquart 400w rms in a chevy 1994 blazer. it goes pretty hard but from what iv heard, it can go louder with a bigger box and a ported box. its facing the back of my car. Could i get some help on how big to build it / all of that kind of stuff? like dimensions, volume, ported size. i might take it to a local audio shop and have them build one but i don't know what sizes and stuff.

ok so my bro has a 15" l7.... seems to be alot of these mentioned in the forum lol. right now its in a sealed 1.5 cube box. a kenwood kac something something powering it with 900rms. car is a mercury sable with the mach audio system. currently the amp is using a loc to get single but my bro will be geting a mtx req or similar device later this year. theres no deading in the car and it rattles like crazy as is.... sorry to anyone who has heard and affended by the rattle... hes geting like 2 rolls of raammat for xmas from my parents we picked up some mdf and liquid nail today and plan to do a new box for the sub. im hoping to do a ported box with a pretty spl oriented de…

ok, as some of u know, my first wall i tore out to make room to lay frame. well once the bags are done, wall is getting rebuilt. right now, its gonna be the 4 15" mts, hella close to the front seats, with the port on the top, and the 4 15's under that. i sat in that guy john's van with the 16 12" ssd's, and it was loud. you guys think i should build my wall like a diamond type thing, something like galactic monkey is doing, or just a straight up wall like im doing? itll be tuned around 35 hz. this was my old wall: never heard it either my floor after airbags will be sorta like this:

I have a 2003 Pontiac Vibe and an AA Mayhem 15 and Im trying to figure out, ideally, what size box would give me best results and what way to fire my sub and port. Can anyone tell me how to figure that out? Like different variables associated with this. I was thinking sub up port back.