SPL & SQ / Fabrication

The box is for a pair of DC Level 4 18's in the back of a 2007 Suburban with all seats in, including the third row.I have the following for outer dimensions to work with: 27 x 49 x27 Now my drawing shows a height of 26 1/2, but I'm only counting the height at 25 3/4 in the Box Calc program because the top board was double baffled. I'm seeing a box tuning at 33hz. Here is my other design, this one is pretty much the same as the first except for both subs and port firing up. What do you guys think? Box Design: I think I still like the whole port and subs up design better. My current box is a dual chambered double slot ported box. Each chambered tunned to 32hz. Has anyone…

I own the following items: http://www.kaptionaudio.com/manuals/SPLManual.pdf ( I have the 15 inch) http://www.kaptionaudio.com/manuals/KaptionD-Class.pdf (biggest amp they make) I am trying to build a loud, clean system. The dimensions and information are in the pdf for the sub. Now, I listen mostly to rap, some rock but mostly rap and otherwise a mixed back. I believe sealed is the way to go because I like the clean, clear bass... I will be leaving in the third row of seating in, but have it flipped up (or maybe I should take it out). I need to use the space above the sub for the transfer of some goods etc... Should I center the sub, put it towards the rear seats or t…

my friend is getting a 10" type R (powering it with a kicker 400.1). he's trying to keep the box as small as he can so i was thinking about using a flare tube port for the box. what diameter should we be looking at? any suggestion? (sub isnt purchased yet. but i havent seen anything better for 100 bucks shipped) edit: damn i think i put this is wrong section... please move if it is

Just brought home my second first place trophy in as many competitions. Little higher this time. 150.1 In modified 901-1600.

hey, im thinking about building a pretty loud setup with just 1 bl 10. its gonna be for competition use only, just for the hell of it lol. its already in a good daily box...but i kinda want to build a burp box since i have 3/4 of a sheet of mdf laying around...im just kinda lost at what to tune it to. ik im supposed to tune high, but how high? i have no idea of what my car peaks at tho, since i dont have anybody around here that uses a termlab. i am using a hifonics 1610d and will b running at 2 ohms on it so about 1200 watts is what the amp puts out. it will be a box for competitions only, so if anybody has any ideaso of what to tune it to that would be great. also, its …

So ive currently have got an Fi SSD15 in a 3 cube box, ported tuned around 31 hz. it murders the lows, and theres no port noise that i can tell despite it having only about 11 sq inches per cubic foot of box volume. the problem is, there seems to be cancellation in the 50-65hz range. it hits great below that and even gets louder over 65hz until it starts rolling off around 85hz. this is in the trunk of a 2001 BMW 525i. i have the sub fired up with the port back. im very frustrated with this lack of a crucial sub bass octave. i'm about to build a new box, in the neighborhood of 4 cubes with a port tuned around 35 hz, with at least 14 sq inches per cubic foot of interna…

its a box for two Fi 15 ssd's. the dimensions i have are 42"w X 20"h X 22"D total of 8.8cu.ft and total of around 8.5cu.ft with sub displacement. and a port 8"w X 8"h X 13"d would tune it to 32hz. thats the calculations i came up with,i just want to double check before i go cutting up mdf.

So im making a thread that may help people in the future on different enclosures for different applications. So what are the physical differences in an spl enclosure compared to a daily driver enclosure or sq enclosure? What separates the two into different catagories? for example does a box that is bigger and tuned high make it a spl enclosure or vise versa? Thanks in advance for your expertize.

http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/audiop...ples/cables.htm

snoopdan uses pink panther insulation to seal around his box so it acts like a wall in his cherokee. I just got done building my box in my scion tc with 4 15s and i need to seal around it so it can act like a wall. I was gonna use pink panther but have 2nd thoughts because it states that it's purely a thermal barrier, not acoustic barrier. Is there any methods u guys use or can persuade me with facts as to continue to go with pink panther insulation or is there a better method?

hello all i have a system installed thanks to the great guys at phoenix gold and its really fricking loud which attracts the hoodrats and hence, i have no window now. So i went to go get a new window and the thing is almost 700.00. so i looked at lexan and that is way frigging cheaper. so heres the deal. How in the hell do you install this crap. i know i am supposed to be able to cut it with a jigsaw and like sand it or something but i dont really know how or what techniques to use or anything else. i need to know how to put this in or someone that does it needs to do it for me but either way i need the big fatty lexan in there. Since there is literally nothing on this su…

can a fully loaded BTL 18" take for SPL burps ? provided with of course the proper ho alt & batteries need some info for planning a set for comp use

My dad has an E8v1 in his van in an old box that was from a component set, he needs a new box. I have leftover wood from my box so I thought I might as well use it! Using sundowns recommendations I figured .6 cubes with a 7x2 PVC aero port. My question is how much port area should it have and what frequency to tune to. He listens to rock music, should I even port it?

I have 4 Sundown Sa-8 V2s that I am thinking about putting in a 4th order box and I have a few questions about how to design it. 1. Do I use the manufacturer's specs for the sealed part? 2. What is the best ported to sealed ratio for a box that I would like to have an output of 20s+ hz? 3. Would tuning the ported area to 45 hz give me the best range in frequency response? (Maybe 20s-60s or so)

okay, so I drive a 1995 honda prelude. I just got my nightshade 12 about two weeks ago =], I am running it with the saz 1500, I have also done my big three. I feel my nightshade isn't at the full potential but, it could just be my box. Off the top of my head I can not tell you my demension, all I can tell you is that its 2cuft at 33hz. I am planning on building another box very soon. I would like to know what input anyone has on they're 12" nightshade and there boxes and how they sound, also anyone with a prelude and where the have there sub mounted and the port faceing. Thanks, Jordan

Hey guys, I know iv posted so many topics about my box but its time for another one. I WAS going rebuild my box for my 18" BTL N2, and make it closer to 7.5 cuft net. Iv been thinking about future upgrades though, and im thinking in the end of it all ill be powering my BTL off of two AB VFL 100.1's strapped (3000wrms). Now with that much power to my subwoofer, would 7.5cuft be a little too big? Iv been talking to one or two people about it and they said it might be a better idea to keep it around 5.5-6 cuft with that much power running to it.

I only get static when both sets of rca's are plugged into my 4 channel avionix amp. When i have ony 1 set of rca in the amp it is clear (Static-free). I tested this on both sides of the amp and the same thing happens regardless if i have the rear rca installed or front rca installed or vice versa. ANy ideas?

So I ordered a BTL 18 today, and I think I'm going to base my enclosure off the one for the XCON optimal one thats here on the site. It says that box is tuned for 30 hz. Fi recommends tuning to 32 hz for the BTL. I don't really figure that the 2 hz will make that much of a difference, but I could be wrong. What I'm planning on doing is putting the port on the other side of the box, so that the driver would be facing up towards the roof of the vehicle, and the port would be facing forwards, toward the front of the vehicle. My question is will putting the port on the wider side of the box, (25.25 in. vs 22 in.) put me closer or farther away from the 32 hz? Also, I'm plannin…

Hello all . Im in beginning stages of design for my 2002 PT Cruiser Enclosure. This will be my first year competing in the lanes for SPL. I know its correct to have a daily box and a burp box, but I would like to get as close of a mix in one box as possible. My initial thoughts would be to have subs facing up and slot port facing up as well because of the lack of room. So far I am just looking for any advice I can get. Max Dimensions: 39w x 20h x 14d. Would prefer port in between subs but If it doesnt make a difference, im flexible. Am I on the right track? Any help would be appreciated.

Ive been wanting a 6thorder for a while. I wanna try to build one for one of my sundown sa-15s i dont how big to make the chambers or the tuning. I listen to all rap and songs with low bass. Idk what do do someone help me. And what types of wood can i use?

When you build a box with a swapable port, how to you determine internal box volume, as in, what it needs to be once the port is in? I'm going to build a box for the BTL that's 7.5 cubes and want three different ports, 26hz, 34hz, and one for whatever my peak frequency in the vehicle with be. I'm not sure, but wouldn't the different port sizes also affect tuning by changing box volume? I feel like this is really simple and i'm just punching myself in the face here. What am I missing?

i was thinking something like this non walled with a 2:1 ratio at 50hz? or do u think my setup like this would be louder?

The guys at kicker said to tune to 39hz for 4x12" CVR's in a 9sq foot box. I don't see many people tuning much higher than 35hz though. So should I take their word for it and tune for 39hz or drop down to 35? This is my first ported box so, I'm somewhat at a loss.

Ok so speaking purely visually, i understand a basic motor and the LMT but XBL^2 i've never seen a good pic of, what exactly is it and how does it differ? what pics i have seen, i can't tell the difference from a normal motor. Now, someone explain in some more depth for me, or point me to a good link, the way the magnetic force helps hurts the voice coil movement. I'm not understanding why a lateral force is necessarily a good thing. Next, why is the cone concave instead of convex? Has anyone ever experimented with flipping the cone over? What affects would this have on the frequency? Obviously i'm procrastinating studying and my mind needs anything else to think abou…

For the past couple of months I have been playing around with imaging. been reading everything I could get my hands on, even picked several brains along the way. I started my project with simple goals in mind. But after listening to others systems, as well as my own. My goals keep getting raised I built the kicks allready. Temporarily using a pair of $1 crunch midbasses ( I love yard sales ) and a pair of large format PE silk domes. Simple inline crossovers. powered by an rf 200a4. To my amazement, and a few others. The sound was rather nice with no processing what so ever. So my goal has now changed once again. I was originally building towards a single seat soundstage…