SPL & SQ / Fabrication

As the topic says I am looking for any and all tips to improve my SPL. After some REAL quick testing that I'm not to sure was accurate. I was told I was doing a 143.5 Legal @ 32Hz. I believe the 32Hz part, but I'm not to sure about the numbers. So any tips, tricks, or ideas you have. Throw them my way. oh and BTW I know I need more power. I'm working on that detail:

Hey guys! This is my first post on this forum, so please excuse me if I'm breaking any protocol. Anywho, if anyone's interested in Digital Designs' new T series subs, check out the link below in which I posted my build thread. I realize it's linked to Elemental Designs, but that's only because I was initially considering the use of their 8" sub. I can't compare the two, but let's just say that I am THRILLED with the performance, sound, and appearance of DD's T1508. I couldn't ask for anything more... well not from an 8" sub. Don't take that the wrong way, though. If I were to compare to anything at the local Best Buy, I'd have to be looking at a single 12" or a pair of 10…

So I designed and built my first ported box on my own, and it does not sound like i anticipated. I believe you all can help. The box is for a single 12'' Fi X with 1.6 cuft @ 31.00 Hz. The sub has a 0.1 cuft displacement, and the Fs is 25.7 Hz. I was told to tune a little higher than the Fs. The O.D. of the box is 16 x 14.75 x 21.625 The port is 8 x 2.25 x 27.875. I used WinISD to design the port. I used 11.25 sqft of port area. I was hoping for it to be musical and be able to go from high freq. to low freq. without problems, but it bottoms out easily on the lows and makes mechanical noise on the highs even with my active cross over set to 35 Hz with a 18 DB slope. …

I understand that if you have the same setup you need to double your wattage each time to get 3 db louder. My question is when you get up to say 4kw and you have to double it to 8kw to get 3 db louder is there a significant difference in loudness? Is it the same audible difference than say the same setup at 200 rms is doubled to 400 rms.

I don't want to keep bugging Jacob if other people here can help. I am building a ported enclosure for 2 Sundown SA 12's . A few questions , would it be good to tune them at 36hz? They will be on a Sundown 1500. Also, What i really need to know more then anything is the port dimensions. The max dimensions for my trunk is 22 Depth, 33 length, 16 Height. A sketch up would be really appreciated with the port calculated and what not! I will return the favor in some way *Shizzon are you around?*

Why is it that some companies suggest a larger box for Fart boxes then others recommend smaller boxes for Fart boxes? What's the difference? Why would a large box work for one sub and not another and vice versa?

Ok, so I called Pioneer to check and see what they recommended for a square port and they told me 1.65 ft^3 per sub 7in^2 of port per sub 6" deep. Which seems SUPER tiny, but when my boy (BngBlzr) had 4 TS-W306DVC's in his blazer with the same specs, shit was loud. So I got the box all built, and I am NOT IMPRESSED. So what do you guys think for port, I don't want to rebuild the whole box, preferably just the front where the port is. The link is to my facebook photo album where pics of the box are. I am trying to locate my piece of paper with the dimensions written on it to throw that in here for you guys to play with too. LMK what you guys think cause from hearing his 4 …

My boy is about to buy a 04 monte carlo. He wants something loud in there without sacrificing the trunk to much, I wont have any measurements for a few days but I wasnt sure if anyone has built anything in one these and mite know some ideas for speaker and amp brands

Hello, I have a 15" Icon sub in a (about) 4 ft3 enclosure, tuned to 30something. The port is just a 6" round PVC tube. I know I have not enough port area. It sounds good But, with the same total volume, would it be better to make an enclosure with the kind of port I can see in all the pics here ? I don't remember the name, sorry! I want to get the best of my sub. (I listen to rap, r' n b and reggae, and I have a saz 1000 amplifier).

Hi, Just wanted to know if anyone is going to the DB Drag World Finals. We may be competing this year providing we hit our target SPL score which is 160db. We currently compete in Street C and are hitting 1580DB in the UK. Are there any street competitors here on the forum? What are you hitting at the moment and what do you hope to be hitting at the World Finals if you're attending?

I just got done discussing with someone what i am doin with my wall in the car and have found a solution, a very cheap solution. I need to have my wall flared on the inside and outside to try and achieve higher pressure levels. My port area is 16.5" wide x 11.25" tall. Look at the bottom pic to see what a Bellmouth port looks like- for my application - There is a guy around town that can make me ANY custom size, flare, etc for my wall so i told him to hold off for a couple weeks while i test other things before i venture in flare port testing. I have some questions though so i can get him to make the proper size. The outside flare can stick out of the box a MAXIMUM of 5…

has anyone here tried to build an 8th order bandpass. i ask because i have had decent succeswith the 4th and 6th orders but now im thinking of trying a 8th order just for spl and was wondering if anyone had any experience building one

Hey Guys Call me a NOOB or Whatever you want, but i need your help, i have tried Kicker L7's, Pioneer Premier Spl, Alphasonik Mayhem and not really achieving alot , only the kicker sounded good but you only get one type of bass, now i want to set up a system thats gona be loud outside and shake the ground, i need your help here because i'm gonna try FI's should i get BL's or BTL's and should i go 2-12" or 1-15", i have a 09 sonata and currently have a MTX TE1501D amp but will upgrade to MMATS 3000.05 next month my trunk is huge but i still need cargo space, so i'm willing to sacrifice 36W x 17H x 19.5D, can you guys plz help me with a box plan also, i listen to mostly r…

about 2 months ago I (with the help of M5) set up my first 2 way active system. Since I have lost the rear speakers and I have my sub crossed in at 50 htz with a 18db slope I now have a serious lack of sound from about 60 to 140 htz. The Bostons I had just would make this honorable noise at about 150 htz, just muddy and nasty. So i just got myself a pair of the new Rockford power components and STILL THE SAME PROBLEM what do I do??? I have already put dynamatt in the doors and on the back of the door skins. Do i have to take this thing 3 way in order to get some mid bass?

the sub should be here within the week. it will be going in a 2002 cavalier. i have limits on the box, so i have come up with 36w x 17h x 13d with 2 3"ID ports tuning to 35hz. i read some where i could tune the box a little higher due to the fact i listen to a wide range of music. any truth?? sub will fire into the cab area. i have also read some where about sealing off the trunk. so, i would seal off the enclosure from the rest of the trunk and channel all the sound into the cab area?? any specifications on space needed in front of the woofer or ports??

Ok, let's say you need a larger enclosure for SPL competition and you have ran out of port options... You need a larger enclosure... would polyfill help or would it actually drop pressure potential... My ports are starting to tune past my peak and i can't enlarge my port area too much more... Was wondering if i start dropping polyfill in the enclosure if it will not only start to lower the tuning back some but keep me gaining as well... Is it worth a try?

When mounting subs like this, can you make the enclosure smaller than recommended? For instance, if the subs call for 1.5 cubes each ported can you get away with making the box 2-2.5 for both? What are the (dis)advantages to mounting subs like this? Or are there any?I know the polarity needs to be reversed with the sub mounted inverted.

Thanks in advance for the help. Alright I am planning on getting a 12" Fi Q D2 and already ordered a sundown SAZ-1000D to power it. I've never built a box before and I dont trust the audio shop here. I want to build a L shaped ported box. Its going in a 1997 chevy blazer so I have room. First should I go sub up port back or sub back port back? What are the benefits of each keep in mind I'm not going for spl. According to Fi "Ported box we recommend using 1.8-2.5 cubic feet @ 28-33Hz (I personally think that a 32hz tuning is optimal, and has the most output and is still the most musical daily driving). Use 12-16 square inches of vent area per cubic foot of volume." So I…

Ok, this is giving me a headache... I dont know the exact volume of the box but it's somewhere between 12-13.5 cuft NET or it should be... This is what i've got and cant figure out why... I had a port 25.5" long that peaked at 50hz. I then had a port 22.25" long that peaked at 51hz I then had a port 20" long that peaked at 52hz I then had a port 18" long that peaked at 53hz I then had a port 16" long that peaked at 54hz The port extends through a double baffle (1.5" thick) and sticks out of the box 5" I always cut off the port length on the INSIDE of the box and retest. My peak frequency is 50hz. My LOUDEST port test was at length - 20" which peaks at 52hz but is loudest…

Building the box tomorrow. 2 JL w7 8 Inch subs (sold the 12's, these are to cool looking). Sealed or Ported? Used for Rap Music. These are each being powered by a JL 500/1 until I order Sundown Amps.

Has anybody had any experience with Rear-Firing in Single Cab? I plan on doing this or downfiring. The only problem with downfiring is the max bottom depth I can do is 12.5" so the 12" sub will be on the surface of the wood just barely. I'm worried it might not be enough support because that will leave about 1/2" on both sides of the Sub Hole. (Where ever the sub will be, it will at least have 2 baffles.)

I'm going to build a box for a Fi Bl 15 that needs to fit against the angle of the seats in the cargo area of my 4runner. I want it to be ported and tuned to about 33-34 htz, but i'm having trouble finding out how to tune the box with the angled back on the box. I was wondering if anybody knows of any online programs or calculators that would tell me what size the port should be in the box to get it tuned right. Thanks for any help.

I am building a box for 2 XCON 18s and am trying to get as close to recommended specs as possible. box is going in a 99 Durango. i really want my subs facing forward so people can see what they are feeling! But not sure about where to place the port. SSA recommends 100 inches port area for each sub, so only real options on location is on the front, bottom; or facing the back hatch. i noticed a lot of street rides have the port facing the hatch for whatever reason. any input/suggestions will be greatly appreciated

Is there a major sound difference for a 12" from 2.30 Cu. Ft. to 2.50 Cu. Ft.??

Okay so I went to Home Depot to get some MDF, Glue, & Screws. So I see the 3/4" MDF and grab a sheet. Then I get home, take it off the truck and find out it's 5/8" instead. Would it be okay to use 5/8" instead of 3/4"? Its going to be for a Single Cab, Downfiring Enclosure, With a Double Baffle. Sub will be AQ HDC3 12"