SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Hope everyone had a happy and safe holiday. Alright, I want to upgrade my front stage and would like some help with speaker placement, setup, installations and whatever else you guys suggest. Check my signature for the setup I currently have. I have a lot of time before I get everything and install because I'm in Afghanistan right now. So basically I want to improve on my overall sq because my speakers are lacking in the midbass area and want to change my setup and I guess try to go active and really experience a real sq system. I'm not trying to go all out in the sq area but I want to do a 3way setup and just upgrade my setup. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Than…

well since i put in the 2 15" BL's on the sundown 3000d, i have NO windshield flex, a little roof flex which is no biggie, but the worst is the doors...the body panels are so thin and theres just a single support bar inside it, which flexs with it against the body panel. i put Great stuff foam and peel & seal. i know peel and seal isnt real deadener, but ive used it before and itll deaden sound for sure, maybe not as good but itll do the job. well it did hardly nothing. what would solve it is fill the whole door with expanding foam but that isnt an option, becuase i obviously need the windows to go up and down. any ideas? pics of my door panels should be in the wall t…

Hi guys, i have a trunk car (2004 Camry) and right now my setup is sub/port back. I have experimented with placing the box closer to the front of the trunk (closer to the back seat) or further back (near the rear bumper), so far my car rattles less and sounds louder when closer to the bumper.. Question I had was, would I gain anything if I flipped my box so that the port/sub was firing into the cabin? if I am listening to the sub at high volume I usually fold the rear seats down to allow more air to move... Wanted to know if anyone with my car or a similar setup has tried this and what results they had before I manhandle a 100lb box and re-wire my amps etc.. thanks!

willl be running a rockford fosgate t1500 on a 15" xcon listening to all sorts of music sq over spl but i still wanna move a lil bit of hair if it makes a difference does it make a big difference if the sub is up port back vs both up or both back? its going in a 98 Honda CRV....simular to the picture bellow, id post mine but im having a hard time figuring it out.

Hey guys I’m building a sub box for a friend. He has a 98’ Camry and wants to fit a 15” T1 in there. My question is what’s the best sub orientation for a trunk setup. I have Sounds in my Altima but I got port and sub firing into the cabin. My friend doesn’t wanna leave his seats down so he asked to have it both firing backwards. Is subs and port back best for a trunk set up? Or is sub up port back works better? I even seen people saying sub up port to the side is really good. But I’m building the box the total usable width so I don’t wanna fire the port right against a wall. Thanks for the input as always guys.

im doing a wall in my hatch back i will be doing bass race bass boxing and meca driveby but how will the best way to place the port drivers side? top?bottom? any help please oh and ill be using my 2 18"treo ssx subs

Anyone ever built a box for 99-06 ext can gmc or Chevy truck? I am trying to make one but don't have my truck until 2 weeks from now since it's getting painted. I mainly just need some max dimensions or an existing design. I appreciate any help

ok a couple of months ago i had woodlawn cabinetry build an ensclure for the subs that i thought i was going to use. well like a couple of weeks ago it arrived. and i really like it but the subs i had told him i was going to use i no longer want to use. so i figured that if the subs that i wind up using have a smaller displacement then the ones i was going to use then the port would be tuned a little lower and vise versa for bigger. now am i wrong and the ensclure is a 4.5 c^3 tuned to 33hz after displacement, common chambered for 2 12" ICONS. i want to use either 2 eclipse sw7200 or 2 12" aa aresanals powered by a sae1000d if u want to know.

Last 4 years and last 7 boxes I have all used slot ports. I have never even looked into aeros before so I got a few questions and would like some support on what others have told me about them. As of right now I am using the torez calculator to try to help me with this. The box Im designing is for a 21 warden, I would like to have 115+ sq in of port for it tuned to low 30s. I have been told that flared ports somehow equal a bigger straight port, example I was told that a 6in flare would equal a 9in straight port. Im guessing the torez calculator goes by straight ports that are not flared. I am getting confused with all the diff info I have been given and would like any ki…

Im a noob at woodworking and have a couple of questions for those that are experienced with routers. I currently have a porter cable fixed based router i snatched up from a pawn shop for $20. I wanna get a plunge router as well in the near future. Collet size is not an issue because both routers are 1/2 and 1/4 shank interchangeable. What kind/size/length bit do i need to do hole cutouts and also what size bit for roundover's for port edges? Assuming 3/4 mdf is being used. Thanks

hey i wanna enter iasca rookie competition but the sub im using is a 15" atomic apspl15, in the category im only allowed 1 4" aero port, what size box should i use and what length port, the car is a mazda protege5, right hand drive cause im from trinidad, the amount of power is 1500 watts, the box will have to make high spl while playing music since in this category you are only allowed to test with music

Hi, so I'm in the process of fixing up my 300zx twin turbo and am figuring out designs for sub boxes and want some advice on configurations etc. I have two re se10s I was thinking of using or Incriminator i10s on around 150rms a peice (keeping power low to avoid having to upgrade electrical and going more for sound quality over getting loud.) My issue is I want to do a box in either side of my hatch but there are some lines on the one side which makes it have a much smaller available space. My question is should I make both boxes fill up the space and have different size boxes or make them both match? I will probably stay sealed to avoid having to figure out airspace an…

got my iCONs in, and im starting a few enclosures.. problem is, im not sure what kind of airspace is optimal.. id rather build 1 or 2 boxes and play with the tuning rather then ad to my collection of T&E boxes.. hoop of the trunk is unbelievably small, so the box might be split into 2 boxes.. ive got a few solid ideas for boxes that have measured out to 2.5 each sub.. should i be shooting for over 3.0??? from DevilDriver's review it seems the subs like the biggest possible enclosure.. il post pics in a few

ok so i have built a few boxes now always using slot port and designing them myself and what not... but slot port always takes alot of space up... i am thinking of using aero ports.... now but it is hard to get exact sqin of port that i want... anyway my q is they displace less air correct... and if so i know it depends on length but is it a dramatic amount thnx trunk cars sukk

Hello, I have a 15" Icon sub in a (about) 4 ft3 enclosure, tuned to 30something. The port is just a 6" round PVC tube. I know I have not enough port area. It sounds good But, with the same total volume, would it be better to make an enclosure with the kind of port I can see in all the pics here ? I don't remember the name, sorry! I want to get the best of my sub. (I listen to rap, r' n b and reggae, and I have a saz 1000 amplifier).

Hey guys im considering getting this passive radiator for my Fi BL12 TC Sounds VMP 15" The reason is i dont have room to port an enclosure underseat but i may be able to fit this. If i decide to go this route im going to design a port for the enclosure and then calculate the mass of air in that port to add the the PR, is this correct? I just want to run this idea by you guys since you all know so much

So I just got my SAZ-1200D and Diamond Audio TDX 10D4s wired up. The box I built is 2.5 ft^3 (after displacement), tuned to 33hz. Now the question is: If I build a larger box but keep the tuning freq the same, would the subs sound the same? Hit lower? This setup bangs for 2 10's in the 30-40 range, but doesn't quite hit the super lows that great.

I am building an enclosure for a 08 chevy crew cab I'm installing 1 fi bl 12 Im not sure what size port to use or how to tune it to the specs im going for my enclosure is 11"h 45.5"w 16"d rear height is 8.25" I am firing it up and plan to face the port to the front I wood like to tune it to 34 Hrz I am powering it by 1 T1000 fosgate with a 4 farad capacitor my box is 2.51 cuft minus woofer displacement can any one help me if you need anymore info please let me no I am knew at this so please bare with me

i wanted to get the maximum amount of cubes i could get in my small pickup so i was thinking about a box that has shared chambers. are there any cons or bad things about a box for two subs with a shared chamber? its going to ported also and its for two fi bl 15s

What kind of Box you sugest for 2x Pioneer 307D2 just for SPL Street B class. Dimensions, Port, and other things. Thank`s

I cannot decide on what to do. 4 SA-15"s in a standard ported wall, or 4 SA-15"s in a 4th order bandpass. What are the positives and negatives of both? I've helped build a 4 15"s wall in the 60's and an 8 12"s 4th in 60's. I like them both, both sound good, both played well. I just cannot decide on what type of enclosure to build.

I never tried this until about 3 months ago when a friend who had W-6's in his truck awhile back said that JL's tend to hit harder in a Ported Enclosure w/ Polyfill stuffed throughout the enclosure. Does anyone know if this is true or not? I have had my 15's in single Ported Enclosures w/Polyfill for about 2 to 3 months and I'm not positive but I think it might be hittin harder but also I have a PPI amp now running these subs when before I had Phoenix Gold XS2500! That could be why also! What do you Fellas think? I have just picked up another PPI PC2150 tonight about an hour or so ago on my way home from work too! So this is my setup now! 2 15's W-6's ran parallel to one …

I know it may take some time specially being designed in mm (As I live in Aus) but can someone or as many people as possible confirm roughly these figures??? Also, feel free to use this design and enjoy!!! BOX HEIGHT IS 260mm, 224mm are Internal Dimensions as all pieces join to TOP/BOTTOM ------------ --------- Also I designed this for a 8" Rockford Fosgate P2D28 sub w/ a bit of extra port area for sub upgrades that may have up to 13mm in XMAX such as say a DD sub (P2D28 has 9.5mm)

I have never built a box for a sub before, and now I am going to be building one for a 8" Kicker L7. This is going to be put into a Jeep TJ, so it does NOT have much trunk space at all. I am not too worried about the size of the box, because I can dimension it to the size of the trunk myself. What I am worried about and have no clue is how to make the port inside the box. I need to know how much space I need in the port to get the most air. Although it is an 8", I want it to perform the best it can through the box. I am looking on Kicker's website and these are the dimensions it says: Mounting Depth (IN.,CM) 4-3/4, 12.1 Mounting Cutout, Square (IN.,CM) 7-1/4, 18.4 Min Re…

i have 3 300amp breakers now... im popin one of them somtimes.. the onw between my amp and my rear cells,.. i know that once thay pop thay pop easyer... i bought a new one on ebay... i was stoned and bought another 300 amp!..... so now im looking for a 350 amp or a 400 amp CIRCUIT BREAKER... any ideas?