SPL & SQ / Fabrication

is there anyone in the Dallas area that could help me build a box?

You can see what Josh (funny guy ) drew up, and then you can see how I tried to tie it all together so all I need to do is lay out the components just like a picture. I used circles and boxes to save time I think the only thing I am unsure of are the woofer -'s and the mid +'s (keep the reversed polarity + (2x) driver in the tower) ... I don't know where I'm supposed to tie them into the neg path - don't know if I have it close to being correct or not, as I just threw them in there. I could always move them right to the main neg lead coming from the binding post if it makes a difference.

I am quickly becoming overwhelmed trying to plan a box for my BTL. I want to rebuild, as my current box is water damaged and pretty ugly at that; not to mention, it's tiny; 5cu @ 34 before displacement, and the port is small as well, 4" x 15.5" (it was free with my woofer) My max dimensions are 34"x26"x23", and i'm aiming for a pretty low tuning, thinking 28-30hz, I like a lot of slowed music, Decaf, etc. I have a local builder, but I haven't seen any of his work in some time, so I'd feel better walking in with a design in hand, and simply having him make the cuts and assemble it. It'll end up in an SUV, so I'm thinking sub up port back, same as my current box. Would…

Ok so my 10" JLW3v2 blew for no reason that i could tell the other day. I have it powered with the JL 250/1 monoblock I bought the sub used on ebay a while ago and never tested both voice coils so I think one of them may have been bad because no wires were loose when I opened up the box, but anyway, enough about that sub. Now I want a new sub and the Boston Acoustics G210-4 caught my eye. I like how it sounds tight and clean and it seems like it'll match my amp well w/ a max RMS of 300 from the sub. My problem is my current box is .71 cubic feet and on Boston's website and Crutchfield it says the sub wants .5 cubic ft (The calculation of the dimensions on their spec s…

I have a 95 caddy deville tryin to put 2 18' in it and the space im working with is 51x32x18. Need help please

So I got a box off ebay. Omg yes I did it. I am looking at it. Fits well looks good it's solid but the inside shows a different story. My speaker cups have huge gapr around them where air can escape. The glue is not thick or sealing the box very well. No I am not building a new one. a few questions. 1= What would you use to reglue it from the inside?? 2= What would you cover the terminal holes with?? 3= what are you installing the speaker with??

What are the advantages and downfalls of fabricating the vehicle below for a SPL vehicle. http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/browse/g...oud/51586_mp6d9 Playing with the idea and would like some feedback. Much appreciated.

I just purchased a used 2007 Lexus ES350 which has a factory 10" subwoofer on the rear deck. It accomplishes some midbass, but just doesn't fill the cabin like I'd hoped. I want to install a Sundown SA-12 along with my existing Rockford 1000bd (I won't have it turned all the way up most likely). While I realize the RF Amp probably isn't best at a SQ install, I'm hoping the Sundown can fit the bill. My question is: Is it possible to make a box that can fire through the fold down armrest in the rear seat or up through the deck? How complex would something like this be in order to eliminate the loss or sludgy sound of bass firing into the trunk? My main reason is to try and…

can someone help me, im going to home deopt today, need some dimensions. can anyone help, i would greatly appreciate it

Just finished an install on my 95 probe. Put a DD 3515 in 3.5 cubic foot (after displacement) box with 2 - 4" aeroports at 17.75". Hooked to a RF 1000a2. Box is a standard CRX design. I've been toying with box placement and right now its sub up port to the side. Sounds decent, but a friend had this exact setup in his 98 Explorer and it was quite a bit better in there. So I'm assuming the problem is related to box design, tuning or placement. Any suggestions??

I know I never start these topics, but I am wanting to build a really cheap fun Street B install for my truck once it is out of the shop, the most cone surface for Street B competition is 3 10's ok so I have narrowed it down to Options: 1 - the RFD 2210 (HX2 single 4 ohm 10") $109 2 - the Kicker S10D (round solo baric singl 2 ohm 10") $109 3 - the Cerwin Vega Vega 10" single 4 ohm $109 4 - dont sell my 2 eclipse aluminums and buy one more svc 4 ohm aluminum and compete with them (cheapest would be the 4th option, but I am hesitant to por them, warbleed really helped me out with figureing out a ported box design despite eclipse's lack of info for porting the Aluminums…

My original box was the one recommended from ssa and it sounded good but the wife wants more space in the trunk so I have to do something different. So I need a box with less depth preferably ported still and a little longer tuned to 32hz. I don't understand how to use the box calculators I have found. Heres what I have to work with as far as area: 32"long x 16"high x minimum depth of the sub which i'm unsure of. The sub is 6" deep so I'm guessing a 1/2" more than that is minimum Basically I just need a longer less deep box that will still sound good. I listen to mainly rap/hiphop and some d&b. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I am doing box plans for free (technically). All that I request you do is sign up for my free ipod link and do an offer. I do everything by hand and I will design a rough outline, cut sheet, and assembly instructions for you. Think of it as trading my time for your time. You can do that offer for free by going through the ancestry.com site.

I am planning a box design in which I am using two 3" aero ports. The ports are supposed to be 7 inches long. My question is when using aero ports does the actual tube have to be seven inches or does the entire port assembly (flares included) need to be 7 inches?

I picked up a 1000watt amp and I'm getting two SA-8s, question is about the port size/length and whether or not to open the air space to both of them. Currently one side has about 1.4ft^3 and the other has .8ft^3. So if I open up the divider the overall airspace should be around 2.2ft^3. The recommended airspace is .75ft^3 per sub. I was thinking if they are separated I could tune one a little higher than the other and get a wider range out of them, or would they sound better in a shared airspace? Whichever is better I need advice on the port. I input these numbers on Port Length Calculator and came up with a 12" long port if I combine airspaces and use a a 4 inc…

Im an authorized Soundstream dealer and MECP certified installer. I do all sorts of installs from cdplayers to custom fabrication. If you have any quesitons please feel free to let me know. I would be glad to help in any way. Mike

My brother is getting an IDQv3 12" sub. Going to be powered by an arc audio 600w amp. Down the road he's going to get another sub and another amp to match. Our budget is drained so I'm going to attempt to build the box. I wanted to go ahead and build a dual 12" ported box tuned at 30Hz. and just use one side for now. Any recommended web sites and pointers would be greatly appreciated. Some questions I have are what's the best to hold the box together. Pre Drilled hole and screws, or staples, or glue, or all the above. Round port vs. rectangular. Which direction to aim the port. Should I aim subs toward the back glass tilted slightly up.

I will be building 2 of these boxes sometime in the next week. There are matched to fit my tiny trunk (00 Mustang Vert)Each is 0.86896 cubic feet, tuned to 32 or 33hz. Each will house a CompVR 10 inch sub, Seeing around 400rms each. The boxes are from a friend so they will be free. There replacing prefab sealed boxes about .8 cubes I would like to know if theres anything wrong with my design. The port is 12.5 inches wide, by half an inch tall. It extends all the way until it is half an inch from the back wall.

im lookin to start a new build and try doing a wall. i know i shouldnt be doing this myself but the only way to learn it to ask a ton of questions and do it yourself. im not sure on the best/proper way to safely secure a wall. the walls gonna be for 2 psi platform 3s which arent too light. i just dont want the wall crushing me if i ever get into an accident. thanks.

Last 4 years and last 7 boxes I have all used slot ports. I have never even looked into aeros before so I got a few questions and would like some support on what others have told me about them. As of right now I am using the torez calculator to try to help me with this. The box Im designing is for a 21 warden, I would like to have 115+ sq in of port for it tuned to low 30s. I have been told that flared ports somehow equal a bigger straight port, example I was told that a 6in flare would equal a 9in straight port. Im guessing the torez calculator goes by straight ports that are not flared. I am getting confused with all the diff info I have been given and would like any ki…

I have a phoenix gold ti 12d and i'm wanting to build a 2.75 cu/ft SQ box tuned to 25hz. which are the specs. that site recommends for it. i have a mtx te 1501d that will be powering the sub in my 08 4dr toyota tacoma. i'm not the greatest with math and formulas so any help to make this buildup as painless as possible would be great. thank you

I have one, and I believe the knob is dead, the light does not come on and I cannot control the unit from it, I dont want to send it into PG and have to pay 100 just for them to look at it, any ideas? or Dave could you take a look at it?

I posted under another topic but calculated the wrong numbers so here is the updated version. The other post topic is misleading so that is why i posted a second time. This should answer any questions of why i posted another topic. I apologize Admin. This link shows the design outline: http://s883.photobuc...re.jpg#comments Here are the numbers: Wedge Enclosure Width: 43" Height: 27" Top Depth: 8" Bottom Depth: 20" Total Volume: 7.885 cb.ft. Port (32Hz) Internal: 20.0"H X 4.0"W X 24"L External: 20.75"H X 4.75"W X 24"L Port Displacement: 1.3689 cu.ft. Woofer Displacement: 0.38 cu.ft. (2 Fi Q 15s) Bracing Displacement: 0.1255 cu.ft. Net Volume: 7.885 - 1.3689 - 0.38 - 0.12…

i need a box build for my sa-10's

Hey all.I have a few questions about walls for car audio in cars.I have wanted a wall ever since i got into car audio but ive had a few concerns about them.Here are a couple of questions/concerns I have about them. 1.About how much does a wall weigh on average? ( I was told i could get a wall built in my car that would weigh about 300lbs made of birchwood.Is that possible?) 2.Is it a must to have air shock or whatever in the rear of the car (I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Galant ES 2.4L and it would cost over a grand to put airshocks in.) 3.Do you guys think my car could handle the weight of a wall? i VERY BADLY want a wall in my car and I know I will not stop fiddling with my …