SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Hello , I am building a box with a round port. I'll try to flare the openings to have a nice flare port It will be a 6" port or an 8", I don't know yet ! How far from the box side can I have the port ? How much "room" does it need to play correctly, safely ? I know I can use an elbow, and I will if it's necessary. Thanks in advance for your advices.

I have pretty much been out of the game since 2009 because I was happy with my last build and left it alone for about 5 years. I recently bought a 94 F-150 ext cab to DD and I need my tunes back. This truck is going to give me some headaches but I'm slowly getting there. I'm looking to put a 10" SSD in a center console box, sub down with a forward firing aero port to try and get everything to fit and not look too silly. I made some templates today and figure I have 18" height, 24" length and 12" width overall to work with. That includes lifting the box 2-3in off the floor for sub clearance. I've never used an aero before but have been doing some research and I think I des…

Im using 4 4" aero ports. The box I will be mounting them to is 38"x20"x20" with an 18" sub on one side facing up. The 4 wont fit in a line since their flare is 7"+, so my question is, should I do sub in the middle with the ports on the side of the box facing back 4 in a row, or can I make a square with sub up port up, Will having 2 ports closer to the sub than the other affect anything? or will air movement be equal between the 4?

Here are the updated rules for MECA http://www.mecacaraudio.com/2009rulebook.pdf

You can see what Josh (funny guy ) drew up, and then you can see how I tried to tie it all together so all I need to do is lay out the components just like a picture. I used circles and boxes to save time I think the only thing I am unsure of are the woofer -'s and the mid +'s (keep the reversed polarity + (2x) driver in the tower) ... I don't know where I'm supposed to tie them into the neg path - don't know if I have it close to being correct or not, as I just threw them in there. I could always move them right to the main neg lead coming from the binding post if it makes a difference.

Hello all, i have a question about a box design, i have always had beat in all my cars but i have never built a box before so this is going to be my first one, and i was wondering if this design would work or not, its going to go in a 96 blazer. thanks alot

looking to free up some space in my nissan 350z so i'll be replace the box i built for my single sundown audio sa-10 with a stealth box. now before i do this i was wanting to know if this box will work great with my sub tune at 33-35hz instead of 39hz. The box i have now is a 1.095 cubic feet vented box tune at 35hz with the sub facing up and vent facing forward. h**p://www.ebay.com/itm/350Z-Ported-Vented-Sub-Box-Subwoofer-Enclosure-Plexiglass-Amp-Rack-39hz-/261676372251?hash=item3ced20911b&vxp=mtr

what tunning should i use for my box , i need it for LSQ should i do, 25-30-35 or 40 ??

Ok so my 10" JLW3v2 blew for no reason that i could tell the other day. I have it powered with the JL 250/1 monoblock I bought the sub used on ebay a while ago and never tested both voice coils so I think one of them may have been bad because no wires were loose when I opened up the box, but anyway, enough about that sub. Now I want a new sub and the Boston Acoustics G210-4 caught my eye. I like how it sounds tight and clean and it seems like it'll match my amp well w/ a max RMS of 300 from the sub. My problem is my current box is .71 cubic feet and on Boston's website and Crutchfield it says the sub wants .5 cubic ft (The calculation of the dimensions on their spec s…

What are the advantages and downfalls of fabricating the vehicle below for a SPL vehicle. http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/browse/g...oud/51586_mp6d9 Playing with the idea and would like some feedback. Much appreciated.

I am quickly becoming overwhelmed trying to plan a box for my BTL. I want to rebuild, as my current box is water damaged and pretty ugly at that; not to mention, it's tiny; 5cu @ 34 before displacement, and the port is small as well, 4" x 15.5" (it was free with my woofer) My max dimensions are 34"x26"x23", and i'm aiming for a pretty low tuning, thinking 28-30hz, I like a lot of slowed music, Decaf, etc. I have a local builder, but I haven't seen any of his work in some time, so I'd feel better walking in with a design in hand, and simply having him make the cuts and assemble it. It'll end up in an SUV, so I'm thinking sub up port back, same as my current box. Would…

As it says above. I dont plan on taking 2nd again this year. i will post pic. soon. somethings involved are a credit card that is pretty close to maxed out at the moment to add alot MORE POWER and maybe more subs just have to wait and see

I have a 95 caddy deville tryin to put 2 18' in it and the space im working with is 51x32x18. Need help please

So I got a box off ebay. Omg yes I did it. I am looking at it. Fits well looks good it's solid but the inside shows a different story. My speaker cups have huge gapr around them where air can escape. The glue is not thick or sealing the box very well. No I am not building a new one. a few questions. 1= What would you use to reglue it from the inside?? 2= What would you cover the terminal holes with?? 3= what are you installing the speaker with??

I just purchased a used 2007 Lexus ES350 which has a factory 10" subwoofer on the rear deck. It accomplishes some midbass, but just doesn't fill the cabin like I'd hoped. I want to install a Sundown SA-12 along with my existing Rockford 1000bd (I won't have it turned all the way up most likely). While I realize the RF Amp probably isn't best at a SQ install, I'm hoping the Sundown can fit the bill. My question is: Is it possible to make a box that can fire through the fold down armrest in the rear seat or up through the deck? How complex would something like this be in order to eliminate the loss or sludgy sound of bass firing into the trunk? My main reason is to try and…

can someone help me, im going to home deopt today, need some dimensions. can anyone help, i would greatly appreciate it

I posted under another topic but calculated the wrong numbers so here is the updated version. The other post topic is misleading so that is why i posted a second time. This should answer any questions of why i posted another topic. I apologize Admin. This link shows the design outline: http://s883.photobuc...re.jpg#comments Here are the numbers: Wedge Enclosure Width: 43" Height: 27" Top Depth: 8" Bottom Depth: 20" Total Volume: 7.885 cb.ft. Port (32Hz) Internal: 20.0"H X 4.0"W X 24"L External: 20.75"H X 4.75"W X 24"L Port Displacement: 1.3689 cu.ft. Woofer Displacement: 0.38 cu.ft. (2 Fi Q 15s) Bracing Displacement: 0.1255 cu.ft. Net Volume: 7.885 - 1.3689 - 0.38 - 0.12…

I am planning a box design in which I am using two 3" aero ports. The ports are supposed to be 7 inches long. My question is when using aero ports does the actual tube have to be seven inches or does the entire port assembly (flares included) need to be 7 inches?

My original box was the one recommended from ssa and it sounded good but the wife wants more space in the trunk so I have to do something different. So I need a box with less depth preferably ported still and a little longer tuned to 32hz. I don't understand how to use the box calculators I have found. Heres what I have to work with as far as area: 32"long x 16"high x minimum depth of the sub which i'm unsure of. The sub is 6" deep so I'm guessing a 1/2" more than that is minimum Basically I just need a longer less deep box that will still sound good. I listen to mainly rap/hiphop and some d&b. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I'm going to attempt fiberglassing for the first time. I'm going to make some kick pods for 6.5" Midbass and Softdome Tweets. I've read just about every forum and "How To" I can find so I'm pretty sure I know what I'm in for, but the one thing I haven't been able to find is how much chopped mat do I need to buy. I'm going to order from US Composites and they have 3/4, 1 1/5 and 2 oz chopped mat. Which size is most commonly used and how many yards would be adequate? I'm sure I'll need some extra just incase I do some beginners f*ck ups Thanks, Bob.

I picked up a 1000watt amp and I'm getting two SA-8s, question is about the port size/length and whether or not to open the air space to both of them. Currently one side has about 1.4ft^3 and the other has .8ft^3. So if I open up the divider the overall airspace should be around 2.2ft^3. The recommended airspace is .75ft^3 per sub. I was thinking if they are separated I could tune one a little higher than the other and get a wider range out of them, or would they sound better in a shared airspace? Whichever is better I need advice on the port. I input these numbers on Port Length Calculator and came up with a 12" long port if I combine airspaces and use a a 4 inc…

My brother is getting an IDQv3 12" sub. Going to be powered by an arc audio 600w amp. Down the road he's going to get another sub and another amp to match. Our budget is drained so I'm going to attempt to build the box. I wanted to go ahead and build a dual 12" ported box tuned at 30Hz. and just use one side for now. Any recommended web sites and pointers would be greatly appreciated. Some questions I have are what's the best to hold the box together. Pre Drilled hole and screws, or staples, or glue, or all the above. Round port vs. rectangular. Which direction to aim the port. Should I aim subs toward the back glass tilted slightly up.

So i know you can tune a box to a certain hz and specific dimensions for a squared ported/sealed box But, Is it at all possible to calculate and tune a fiberglass piece that you make to mount your subs on the side of the car or anything? ive read many tutorials on how to fiberglass but nothing really mentions anything about proper dimensions and what not for a sub. so am i sacrificing quality and proper sound for looks by fiberglassing?

I have one, and I believe the knob is dead, the light does not come on and I cannot control the unit from it, I dont want to send it into PG and have to pay 100 just for them to look at it, any ideas? or Dave could you take a look at it?

I will be building 2 of these boxes sometime in the next week. There are matched to fit my tiny trunk (00 Mustang Vert)Each is 0.86896 cubic feet, tuned to 32 or 33hz. Each will house a CompVR 10 inch sub, Seeing around 400rms each. The boxes are from a friend so they will be free. There replacing prefab sealed boxes about .8 cubes I would like to know if theres anything wrong with my design. The port is 12.5 inches wide, by half an inch tall. It extends all the way until it is half an inch from the back wall.