SPL & SQ / Fabrication
Calculations, Concepts, Designs, Theories. All General SPL Or SQ Questions Can Be Discussed Here.
2,714 topics in this forum
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Alright, there has been a lot of discussion and I want your opinion! For an Integra, which is the best box for an all out SPL build? (and gets low) Wall behind the driver/passenger seatsSub up, port backSub up, port frontSub back, port backSub front, port front
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For 2 Fi BL 18s in a box that is 2cuft over the manufacturers recommended enclosure size the final net volume after displacement is 18.29. I have the tuning freq set at 33hz. What would you guys tune this box to? Or should i keep it the same? Thanks!
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hello all! I have a 99 single cab Silverado. I'm wanting to put my 15" BTL N2 in the truck but i've never done a blow through. my concerns are how big to cut the hole out through the cab, should I make it as big as the box? or can I get away with having a smaller hole (only a few inches smaller) I have another BTL that needs to be reconed but, I don't have a amp that can push them both. so for now I want to just put this one in. would a 4th order be a good design or just a slot ported box work better (I'm not a fan of aero ports)
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so in torres i put a 23.5" length into the calcs. this gives me a 35.07hz tune with a port dimension of 23.5X4.75" and 7.07 cubic. the physical port length is 17.25 according to torres. i need to verify what my port actually is and i feel a bit confused by the measuring. if i measure the port down teh center wich is how i understand the correct measurement to me then i get 20 and 3/8" in length, then i measure horizontally to the inside of the MDF sheet wich is 3 and 1/8". so that makes the port 23.5" long down the center. if i measure on the face of the wood itself i get 18.75" long and accounting for 3/4" thickness of the port itself. on top of that it makes it 2.375…
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Im about to do a build for someone and wanting help with the enclosure design. They are wanting a c pillar wall with port across the top. Its for one 21" warden on a sundown 4500. High output alt. I think 4 100 ah batts. Big 3 . Needing help with how much cubic feet and port area Ill start a build log once the enclosure starts Vehicle : 2000 Tahoe Location in the vehicle: c pillar wall Space available (Length x Width x Height): 24 deep 32 wide 36 high . . Going to at least double layer 3/4 in. wood all around Subwoofer make and model: ia warden Subwoofer Size: Number of Subwoofers: 1 21" Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): slot along top of wall. Mite be open t…
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Ok I have an 08 atima coupe and just redone my trunk floor for new box. Anyway I have 3.7-4.4cuft (internal box volume) to play with, I'm pretty sure a round port isn't going to work and not sure how to go about a slot or sqaure port. I know I need around 52in of port area for 32 to 33hz but I'm just stuck due to my box shape which I uploaded a picture of. any suggestions would be great.
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15"sa sundown d2 on 1200 watts All the sites for box sizes and calculators I just cant seem to come up with the proper size port and so forth I have all the room I need but everything says I need a bigger box with that 1200 watts running 1 15" any ideas or help sizing, thanks my 1 size was 33 x19x 17 3.5" port width 11 1/4" by 15.5" 3.7 cubes @ 32hz looking to stay around 32hz any help on proper box size is appreciated
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Currently running my 12" ICON in a 1.35 cu ft sealed enclosure. The car is a hatchback. While the sub itself sounds clean and puts out decent volume, I'm often wishing it hit the lower notes a bit better and was louder. Is anyone able to help me design a ported enclosure for this sub? I'm trying to keep the footprint of the enclosure as small as possible, but I understand it'll take more space than the sealed setup currently. This is the current setup: Untitled by riored4v, on Flickr Regarding the height, i can't really go much taller since this still allows me to use my hatch cover to keep everything out of eye sight. Its at 13.5" tall. Any help would be ap…
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Hey fellas, I'm looking to change box design. I want it to be port forward. The dimension I have available is 32"W x 12.5"H x 29"D. It is running on a bc2000. I am trying different boxes until I can get another xcon and have no experience with 4th order builds. It will be a 98 mustang trunk wall. If there are any details you need let me know as I have no knowledge of 4th order designs. Thank you to anybody who helps.
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Who are the reputable box builders hanging out on this site? Going to be needing a box sometime soon.
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im wanting to run a pioneer ts-w304r i want to run the sub to its best potential.the box measurements can be 5 inches deep max at top and 7 inches deep at the top.up to 15inches 45 inches long it will be in a single cab s10 want to be ported if you can help me please thank you
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Sorry if this has been asked before but if I decide to get a loud exhaust system is it worth it if my system is my main priority and by is it worth it I mean will it take a full shop pack of deadner for it not to affect my system?
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never designed a ported box before so feel free to give any critisism/help for an xcon 10" net box volume 1.37 cubes port length 31.05" diameter: 1.75" if anyone is so inclined feel free to double check calculations and such as ive never done this before and might have done something wrong all info should be in pics bellow
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I've always designed the box with the port on the side, but now I need it in the middle (using 2 subs). I do know that when the port splits off the port width gets halved, but is the whole length of the port mean that each side is the port length? Let's say I have a box that is 6" wide and 30" long. When it splits off each side will have a width of 3", but does each side equal 30" long? Someone also told me that you add half of the width of the port to each side of the port length. So each length would actually be 33" long. I don't know why that would work though. When I design boxes I use torres and there's a box that says "# of common port walls". I put 2 in there, …
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Someoneon here linked a tool that cuts PERFECT circles. It was an attacent for a drill. Had a shield to block the saw dust and everything. Can someone link it or find it? I'm on mobile and can't use the site so well
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I was thrown into the fire so to speak at work, designing and building a box for 2 phenox gold 12" subs and i found out our company policy today is to resin the entire inner box and glass the corners. I do not believe i have enough resin to coat the entire box so my question is this: does covering the box with resin or any section of the box improve its performance? should the corners be glassed and if so what is the best way to do this? i was shown a corner piece with resin and kitty hair pressed into it, it was not smoothed. i need to finish the box tomorrow.
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does anyone know if a single sundown audio sa-10 would sound good in a box tune at 45hz ?
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I have 1 PSI P1 15" sub in a 4.5 cubic foot ported enclosure. I have a 6" diameter aero port that is 10.5" long. My box is a 6 sided wedge design and we are trying to figure out where to place the port. I have a 2010 Hyundai Accent Hatchback and my box is in the very back. Here are my 2 options. Option 1: Port on top of box next to the sub. Option 2: Port in front of the box on the angle. If the port is placed in front it will be a few inches from the back of the seat with the seat up. If it's placed on top it will always be in open space. I would rather it in the front so i can blow more air towards the passengers but i dont want the seat to interfere with the sound qual…
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Ive never built a box that wasn't square all around so this is new to me. I have an angled back plate, so if I angle the port a long with it, the bottom of the port is shorter in length than the top. Which should make the tuning on one side of the port different then the other or how does that work? How do I create a center port like this and have the tuning and airspace I require? These are interior dimensions. I'm sure I'm over thinking this, but I want to stay as close to 13 cubes and 30hz as possible.
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I have noticed that my subs (2 12 inch pioneer champs) are peaking high. I think my tune may be messed up but I just cant get it right. It will get real low and then attempt to hit a few high notes. The amp itself should be tuned with lpf at around 35 and ssf at around 20. Any suggestions?
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Subs:2, Sundown Audio E-12 v1, 400rms Amp: Hifonics 1700.1 wired to 1 ohm (so 850rms per sub) Box. Custom mustang vert box, .9 cubes per sub sealed. Right now the E-12s are reversed mounted to get the most usable airspace. Is there a subwoofer that would better handle the power such as the soundqubed HDS 200 or 300. Also, should I stuff the box with polyfill or something? I can't turn my volume up to even half on some songs before the subs start to distort or bottom out. So what can I do to improve my setup?
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I picked up a 1000watt amp and I'm getting two SA-8s, question is about the port size/length and whether or not to open the air space to both of them. Currently one side has about 1.4ft^3 and the other has .8ft^3. So if I open up the divider the overall airspace should be around 2.2ft^3. The recommended airspace is .75ft^3 per sub. I was thinking if they are separated I could tune one a little higher than the other and get a wider range out of them, or would they sound better in a shared airspace? Whichever is better I need advice on the port. I input these numbers on Port Length Calculator and came up with a 12" long port if I combine airspaces and use a a 4 inc…
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Okay, so there are two ways I can go about this. In the back of a Grand Cherokee I want either 2 15s or 4 12s. I was looking at buying 2 Dual 12 aeroport boxes from Davetheboxguy. Just hooking up 4 Soundqubed HDS200s and calling it a day. OR I could design and create my own box for 2 15s (I was thinking SSA ICON or the HDS300s or perhaps the HDC 3.0) The amplifier will possibly be a BC2000d good for 2250 rms. I could step it up if need be if somebody could recommend an amp that doesn't cost much more but will give enough power. Should I go with 4 12s, or 2 15s. (Yes I know its preference but I am good with either one so help me out here) and I am going to start workin…
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So was wondering if this box design was good for spl( stole the pic from smd froum ) http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/q641/antoinez28/1571462d541ddd32176d702a8041523f_zps241afbf8.jpg The only thing I will be using 3/4 mdf and the top of the box will be 2 inch thick plus bracing.
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Couple of questions for those that have done blow-throughs. This is the back seat in my Mitsubishi crew cab. If I were to mount my amp on the back of the seat (where the sub box is in the pic), would that restrict the air flow in to the cab when the seat is up? Also, in regards to the tuning theory of building the sealed section, measuring peak and tuning the ported section accordingly - does that work with a blow through? I would have thought if the cut out is smaller than the overall cone area, then it would act as a really high tuned port?
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